Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => Accessories and modifications - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: PlaynInPeoria on April 21, 2016, 10:16:15 AM
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My buddy just put these in his Multistrada, drop in part.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/172096925063 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/172096925063)
Another friend got a pair of these and put one in his ZRX1200 and the other one in his C14, alongside the 35W HID, because he's that way.
http://www.vleds.com/shop-products/lmz/lmz-high-low/h4-lmz-platinum.html (http://www.vleds.com/shop-products/lmz/lmz-high-low/h4-lmz-platinum.html)
I make no claims of anything, reliability, warranty, how it affects your tire pressure, your fob, oil change intervals, love life etc. You're on your own. Strictly FYI/YMMV, fly at your own risk.
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I thought that it had been pretty much accepted that the Evitek with the shields (http://www.amazon.com/Headlight-Evitek-Easy-Installed-Headlights-4500LM/dp/B017M566T4/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1461268058&sr=1-3&keywords=H4+LED+headlights) were the only ones that had acceptable light patterns and everybody liked them. (OK, most liked them.)
No?, are we still looking?
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The Evitek is 1/3 the price of the Vleads. Do you have the Evitek units installed Marty? If so, how do you like them?
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I'm not on here much and just received the info from 2 friends, so I posted it for the benefit of the forum. I have gotten a fair amount of help and it was time for a little payback/karma straightening.
If there is a better solution in that thread, I'm all for it. I will get that info and pass it to my friends or perhaps use it in my Speed Triple, which has crappy lighting. Well, when compared to the 55W HID I have on my C14, everything is crappy lighting.
Ok, that wasn't a thread. It was a link to Amazon. I found the Evitek thread, I may give that a shot, assuming it will fit. My S3 has very little room to work with, basically just what's inside the headlight. If you click the link, the picture gets way bigger.
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2949/15312763698_b6443055df_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/pk8Vad)
20141008_195156 (https://flic.kr/p/pk8Vad)
by chris smith (https://www.flickr.com/photos/cpsmith58/), on Flickr
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The Evitek is 1/3 the price of the Vleads. Do you have the Evitek units installed Marty? If so, how do you like them?
First I don't drive at night much...but yes I do have them installed and I like them. ( <----There that answered the question, below is the blah blah blah answer (http://www.jonrb.com/emoticons/blahblah.gif))
They are brighter than stock OEM, look the same as the HIDs I just took out, and have a defined cutoff. The only difference I noticed (and it's fairly unimportant and insignificant) from the HIDs and stock OEMs is: There is a downward projected line of light on either side of the bike that is seen on the ground and is very noticeable at night especially when following several C14s going down the road. The HIDs had the exact same pattern as the OEM bulbs only brighter and whiter, however the LEDs have split the single beam on each side into a more scattered pattern of two or three lines.
If you are not familiar with the pattern that I mention here, you almost need to lean left or right and look down to see the ones made by your own bike, like I said it's most noticeable when following other C14s at night. I assume that the new pattern is because both the HIDs and the OEM had one arc/filament (low beam on the OEMs) where as the the LEDs have an LED on either side for the low beam (and two additional for the high beam) so the focus point is a little more spread out left and right instead of dead center.
I never liked the HID setup as it just had too many wires and I was always messing with them to keep them from rubbing other wires when I turned the front wheel. Most didn't have
this problem with their HIDS, but I have both Denali lights and Hyper Whites low on my front wheel so that was already lots of wires down in that area, the HID wires were too much
in the same dark area that I found to be a real pain to work in. The LEDs do not involve much more wiring than the stock wires, and if one were to go out, it would be very easy to replace it
with the OEM bulb from my tool bag, that wasn't the case with the HIDs.
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if one were to go out, it would be very easy to replace it
with the OEM bulb from my tool bag, that wasn't the case with the HIDs.
Thanks for the reply. I didn't even think of this. Very important on a long trip to be able pull out an H4 from the tool bag or even pop into a auto parts store and pick one up to replace a broken bulb.
I ride in the dark a lot as I commute in the wee hours. Good lighting has become much more important to me. I may give these as shot.
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Since Marty doesn't ride in the dark much, why is he obsessed with lighting? ;-)
Rhino, post back if/when you do try them with your experience.
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Thanks for the reply. I didn't even think of this. Very important on a long trip to be able pull out an H4 from the tool bag or even pop into a auto parts store and pick one up to replace a broken bulb.
I can do that with my HID kit. Just unplug the HID adapter and plug in a standard Halogen bulb, no need to disassemble anything or take off anything.
Besides, we have a DUAL headlight- if one goes out, we have another one still working. Not like it is a single bulb or hi/low side-beside system.
I am not saying I recommend HID, I am just saying that *MY* kit doesn't negate quickly using standard bulbs.
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Since Marty doesn't ride in the dark much, why is he obsessed with lighting? ;-)
:rotflmao: I can see your point, but to take the question seriously....lighting is also about being seen so that's one reason, the other being that with less experience riding at night the lighting is even more important. In the Texas summer heat I like to leave on a trip early, well before first light just to get out of the heat as soon as possible. If I could afford a FLIR heads up display I would probably leave on my trips around 11PM. However, since I can't afford a FLIR, 3-4AM is the earliest I leave cruising at below optimal speeds so I have the best chance of avoiding deer. As dawn approaches I try to stop for breakfast during sunrise because it seems harder for me to spot the little darlings during that half hour on either side of sunrise.
I can do that with my HID kit. Just unplug the HID adapter and plug in a standard Halogen bulb, no need to disassemble anything or take off anything.
I am not saying I recommend HID, I am just saying that *MY* kit doesn't negate quickly using standard bulbs.
I agree, mine was the same, except like I said earlier I had trouble keeping all those wires out of the way, so my original plugs were taped up and tucked well in out of sight (left one being used for a trigger circuit for the HID relay). In addition it just isn't that easy to work in that area for me and my hands aren't that big. So yes, max' is correct (that actually hurt a little ;) ) but for me replacing the LED with an OEM bulb on the side of the road or even in the motel parking lot would be easier by a factor of 5-10...more like 10 I think versus replacing a HID with a bulb.
Over all, just for lighting quality alone IMO, the HIDs are the best (the ones that move in and out for beam changing) followed by the LEDs, followed by the so called Bi-xenon HIDs that have a HID low beam and a traditional filament high beam, followed by the OEM bulbs and or/ extra bright but shorter life high output filament bulbs. I suspect that LED or HID projectors would be at the absolute tops in lighting quality but I have no experience with those.
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Here's a picture with a brand new C14 of the left with stock halogen bulbs, and my bike on the right with New Brights LED's.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah209/Sailor_chic/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2704_zpsxrormh6o.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/Sailor_chic/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2704_zpsxrormh6o.jpg.html)
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Here's a picture with a brand new C14 of the left with stock halogen bulbs, and my bike on the right with New Brights LED's.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah209/Sailor_chic/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2704_zpsxrormh6o.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/Sailor_chic/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2704_zpsxrormh6o.jpg.html)
Wow! What a difference!
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Wow! What a difference!
Indeed.... including greatly increased glare (I think the photo is at standing height, so it is not supposed to be in the beam). This is why I really wish we had some easy/good options for projectors.
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Indeed.... including greatly increased glare (I think the photo is at standing height, so it is not supposed to be in the beam). This is why I really wish we had some easy/good options for projectors.
I would love to see an image showing the two same bikes parked the same distance from a wall or garage door to see the spread of light as well as the cut-off that they both have.
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here is a question for those of you that have the led headlights. How do you get the rubber weather cup back on around the light plug to seal against the weather? they install easily enough once i relearn again how to install them but i do not have any idea how you get the rubber boot over the heat sink fan extension on the back?
ken
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here is a question for those of you that have the led headlights. How do you get the rubber weather cup back on around the light plug to seal against the weather? they install easily enough once i relearn again how to install them but i do not have any idea how you get the rubber boot over the heat sink fan extension on the back?
I don't think you can... and if you do/coul, you will block the heat sinks. LED lights can't deal with heat and if you cover the fan or block the heat sink fins, the bulb life will be greatly reduced.
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My LED'S are the New Brights. The fan unscrews from the bulb so the weather boot can be installed properly.
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My LED'S are the New Brights. The fan unscrews from the bulb so the weather boot can be installed properly.
Cool. I bet there are several designs out there that don't accommodate the seal, though.
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the only way i can think of making the boot fit it to cut down one side so that you can open it up and then you can fit it around the narrower throat of the bulb just in front of the heat sink/fan. it should then fit together and fit into the surround. hopefully a little silicone tape and away you go. i dont dare run without any boots.
I will check and see if the fan unscrews. how do you like the New Brights? I can always send these back...
***update: the the keyed based plate just behind the leds comes off, now if you could somehow make the retaining tensioner lock...
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I'm quite pleased with the New Brights. On low beam there awesome. The high beam is less impressive, but I hardly use high. Low is sufficient.
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***update: the the keyed based plate just behind the leds comes off, now if you could somehow make the retaining tensioner lock...
What brand do you have?
The Eviteks have the keyed plate that comes off and is held in place by the original clips on the bike. Then the rubber boot goes back on (unmodified), then the LED unit goes through the hole in the boot into the plate and twist locks in the plate.
Yours don't do that?... or were you just being facetious and complaining about the whole clip in process (retaining tensioner) that all H4s use.
If your arm is long enough you can watch how the clip goes in from the front of the bike through the lens.
Below link is how it's done on a car(? well, I think it's a car). Some tweaking can be done (as seen in the original 8 page ADV thread (http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/how-to-modify-h4-led-to-reduce-glare-this-is-the-one-you-want.1080510/)) by use of spacers, and bending the shields, and changing the twist by shaving the plastic tabs, etc, but I haven't experimented with mine yet.
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71tknWWS4EL.jpg (https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71tknWWS4EL.jpg)
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I have the evitek, will try as you suggest, thanks. I had put one in without the boot and fired it up, quite impressive. I keep eveeryone posted.
ken
What brand do you have?
The Eviteks have the keyed plate that comes off and is held in place by the original clips on the bike. Then the rubber boot goes back on (unmodified), then the LED unit goes through the hole in the boot into the plate and twist locks in the plate.
Yours don't do that?... or were you just being facetious and complaining about the whole clip in process (retaining tensioner) that all H4s use.
If your arm is long enough you can watch how the clip goes in from the front of the bike through the lens.
Below link is how it's done on a car(? well, I think it's a car). Some tweaking can be done (as seen in the original 8 page ADV thread (http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/how-to-modify-h4-led-to-reduce-glare-this-is-the-one-you-want.1080510/)) by use of spacers, and bending the shields, and changing the twist by shaving the plastic tabs, etc, but I haven't experimented with mine yet.
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71tknWWS4EL.jpg (https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71tknWWS4EL.jpg)
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Since this was my first venture into led headlights I just saw the OP and immediately jumped on it without any research. No, i was not being facetious or complaining, I was just not aware that most of these lights have removable plates. I am quite content to live with the retaining clip standard on most H4 lamps. since then I have been doing a little more searching and found this apparently newer JDM ASTAR brighter version that appear to be adjustable to control beam cutoff line. forgive me if my terminology is not accurate, I tend to ride to enjoy for 50+ years now and depend on the enthusiasts here to point me in the right direction for improvements in my connie. Also note that this is a link that goes thru amazon smile to donate to Fisher House. (look it up :) )
http://smile.amazon.com/JDM-ASTAR-Generation-Extremely-Headlights/dp/B018SYK6GW?ie=UTF8&keywords=JDM%20ASTAR%208th%20Generation&qid=1465468914&ref_=sr_1_2&s=automotive&sr=1-2 (http://smile.amazon.com/JDM-ASTAR-Generation-Extremely-Headlights/dp/B018SYK6GW?ie=UTF8&keywords=JDM%20ASTAR%208th%20Generation&qid=1465468914&ref_=sr_1_2&s=automotive&sr=1-2)
The Eviteks have the keyed plate that comes off and is held in place by the original clips on the bike. Then the rubber boot goes back on (unmodified), then the LED unit goes through the hole in the boot into the plate and twist locks in the plate.
Yours don't do that?... or were you just being facetious and complaining about the whole clip in process (retaining tensioner) that all H4s use.
fartymarty said:
The Eviteks have the keyed plate that comes off and is held in place by the original clips on the bike. Then the rubber boot goes back on (unmodified), then the LED unit goes through the hole in the boot into the plate and twist locks in the plate.
Yours don't do that?... or were you just being facetious and complaining about the whole clip in process (retaining tensioner) that all H4s use. >>
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No, i was not being facetious or complaining, ....
Great Ken', because between the efforts of max' and I, there really is already enough complaining going on around here. ;D
The adjustability of the lights you link to are interesting, but the cut off shown in the photo (http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/71jFHVavkmL._SL1500_.jpg) appears to be slanted for driving on the left side of the road.
I don't know enough about headlights to know if that is from the effect of the reflectors on the vehicle they used for the photo or if that is a built in to the lock and twist of the LED base and the shield. I'll think it's from the vehicle's reflector. The shield itself appears substantial and not likely to be adjustable (bendable) like the Eviteks. Still it is nice to see they are actually building in some adjustability in the base, and comparing them to the original bulbs to try and consider focal points.
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I appreciate the efforts of both of you guys. thanks to you and max, i am just a few minutes away from installing the headlamps, the turn signal bulbs, and the city lights.
ken