Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => The Bike - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: DaddyFlip on October 13, 2015, 06:10:57 PM
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(My intro thread http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=20304.0 (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=20304.0))
Eli hit the 600 mile mark today and the bike is exactly the ride and experience I was looking for. Smooth, quiet, powerful, authoritative (even at < 4000rpm), extremely well built, and just stays out of the way - no drama from the bike at all.
So I changed the oil, filter, and rear lube today which is a PLEASURE on this bike. Not a stray drop of fluid anywhere. The bike only had a touch over three quarts in it from the showroom floor. Since it is a 2011, the OE filter was a Japan/Denso 16097-0004, the old style fiber kind without endcaps. It was totally full of gunk and the can had a lot of junk and metal shavings in it, so I guess the filter and break-in oil did its job but I was relieved to change the oil and get on some 'real' oil.
I went with Mobil1 4T 10w-40 and a Mobil1 M1-110. I put all but 5.5oz of 4qts to get a third of the way above the low level mark when balanced on the tires. On the center stand, the level is midway between the two lower marks. The rear was MasterPro 75w-90 synthetic, which is OReilly house brand.
I decided to start with some protective farkles since I noticed my cool weather pants started scuffing and scratching the tank and side panels... YUCK! So, for starters...
- TechSpec shark skin pad kit for tank, side panels, and panniers
- Cox Racing radiator guard
- Fenda Extenda
- Grab-On foam grip covers (I use on all bikes)
- Heli Bars riser blocks with RAM ball and power socket
- RAM mounts for brake and clutch brackets
Probably go with a Calsci screen in standard width and medium height in the near future to eliminate buffeting and get another inch of height in the full up position, which would be perfect.
Love my new bike and goes great with my ZR7 - a perfect pairing for me.
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You only drained a lil over 3 quarts of the old oil out and filled it with less than 4 quarts of new? It takes ~4.5 quarts to fill so something isn't right.
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I agree with that assessment. However, I was advised by some pretty knowledgeable Connie riders to add oil according to the fill marks when the bike is level on its tires rather than the printed capacity (4.7 quarts). I added to a third of the way up from the low level line in the sight glass, which was 3.82 quarts for me. That's after warm up check and after a 20 mile ride and check. I'm a bit baffled as well, but satisfied I'm following the advice of the right dudes.
BTW... the 3 quarts drained was the break-in oil from the factory on a 5-year old bike new bike. I don't think the shop checked that as they should have but it's behind me now. No sweat.
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You only drained a lil over 3 quarts of the old oil out and filled it with less than 4 quarts of new? It takes ~4.5 quarts to fill so something isn't right.
...and ride away :) .
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I don't know who these 'knowledgeable Connie riders' are but I've been changing the oil in my C14 since I bought mine new in 5/09. I don't measure anything, other than eyeballing 1/2 quart. I drain the old and add 4.5 quarts and the level in the sight glass is perfect every time.
If you were running your new bike with 'a touch over' 3 quarts in it, you were running it low. Did you not check the level yourself once you got the bike home?
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Yes, sir. I checked the level several times and was concerned that it was low. I could register a level if leaned the bike juuuuuust past the balanced point and I wasn't getting any oil pressure warnings, so I was content to let the low level break-in oil do its work to the 600 mile mark. In hindsight, it probably was not the best move, but everything seems okay.
I don't know what to say on the oil quantity. I will keep an eye on it, but by following the advice of "my guys", I'm also following the book. I'm just above the lower mark when cold and level balanced on the wheels with 3.82qts. And I'm even using an oil filter with a longer canister (Mobil1 M1-110). I could add that extra 0.18qts to see what 4.0 even looks like cold and take it out if I didn't like it.
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From the '08 FSM....
Engine Oil:
Type API SE, SF or SG
API SH, SJ or SL with JASO MA
Viscosity SAE10W-40
Capacity 4.7 L (5.0 US qt)
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UPDATE: I added the rest of that 4th quart and the level came up to exactly between the upper and lower lines so I'm satisfied. Thank you for pressing the issue and for posting the spec. I double checked it in the book also. Maybe that extra 0.7qt would bring it up to the upper line, but that's too high for me.
Oh yeah, your red highlight is a bone dry engine. It's 4.7qt for a change with filter IIRC.
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For the record, the first pic is 3.8qts and the second pic is 4.0 qts. Bike on level concrete and held vertical on the wheels. First oil change so it may take more later? Also Mobil1 filter cannister is half inch longer which should take MORE oil!
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UPDATE: I added the rest of that 4th quart and the level came up to exactly between the upper and lower lines so I'm satisfied. Thank you for pressing the issue and for posting the spec. I double checked it in the book also. Maybe that extra 0.7qt would bring it up to the upper line, but that's too high for me.
Oh yeah, your red highlight is a bone dry engine. It's 4.7qt for a change with filter IIRC.
That's why 4.5 w/filter change is a comfortable # for me. Pressing the issue was not to prove a point but to caution against running too low. :chugbeer:
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Yes, that's why I was thanking you, and you prompted me to add the rest of the 4quarts which I am happy with. I change oil just for fun so there will be plenty of opportunities to see how much it takes.
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Maybe a dumb question. Why are you not filling to the upper line. It would be kind of like filling your car to the add and saying that's good enough.
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Maybe a dumb question. Why are you not filling to the upper line. It would be kind of like filling your car to the add and saying that's good enough.
Point well taken. Most car dipsticks have an area, not a line, that says the level is adequate. As long as you are above the "fill" line but below the "full" line, you are good. I am curious why there are four marks around the sight glass but only two of them are mentioned in the manual. I figure the line below the low level line is the "low-low line" and the arrow below the high level line is a reference "fill to" point, but there is no documentation. I'm happy being right in the middle of the upper and lower fill lines. Whew! That's a lot of lines.
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I know most put in 4.5 quarts, but I have always used 4.7(I'm anal). Mine is always at the upper line. 4.5 quarts is fine though and well proven by the majority here. I wouldn't put in less though.
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Point well taken. Most car dipsticks have an area, not a line, that says the level is adequate. As long as you are above the "fill" line but below the "full" line, you are good. I am curious why there are four marks around the sight glass but only two of them are mentioned in the manual. I figure the line below the low level line is the "low-low line" and the arrow below the high level line is a reference "fill to" point, but there is no documentation. I'm happy being right in the middle of the upper and lower fill lines. Whew! That's a lot of lines.
There is a reason we don't think about this too much. It hurts our branes. Put in 4 and a few glugs....
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Easy there big guy- it is 2.839578 English Standard glugs exactly, not 'a few'.
For the sane out there, the crankcase is just a reservoir for oil and anything above the the pick-up screen and below the crankshaft rotation is fine. It just is not a critical thing.
Brian
There is a reason we don't think about this too much. It hurts our branes. Put in 4 and a few glugs....
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We all know that how much oil you put in is determined by how much oil is left in the engine after you drain it.
From the Service Manual:
Oil Level Inspection •Check that the engine oil level is between the upper [A]
and lower levels in the gauge.
If the engine oil gets extremely low or if the oil pump
or oil passages clog up or otherwise do not function
properly, the oil pressure warning light will light
Poor running or no power at high speed
- One of the causes could be Engine Oil Level Too High
There is nothing in the manual that says to fill to the top line. Not sure whether the MOM state this or not, but some of my Kawasaki bikes state that if you are going to be running sustained high speeds you should fill to the top line because you will more than likely use some oil.
Now back to your regularly scheduled program.
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Please do not confuse us with the facts.
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Please do not confuse us with the facts.
Exactly! See my sig line.
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We all know that how much oil you put in is determined by how much oil is left in the engine after you drain it.
From the Service Manual:
Oil Level Inspection •Check that the engine oil level is between the upper [A]
and lower levels in the gauge.
If the engine oil gets extremely low or if the oil pump
or oil passages clog up or otherwise do not function
properly, the oil pressure warning light will light
Poor running or no power at high speed
- One of the causes could be Engine Oil Level Too High
There is nothing in the manual that says to fill to the top line. Not sure whether the MOM state this or not, but some of my Kawasaki bikes state that if you are going to be running sustained high speeds you should fill to the top line because you will more than likely use some oil.
Now back to your regularly scheduled program.
FYI... this is one of "my guys"! Thanks twa! ;)
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Haven't seen a good oil thread in awhile. The level is one thing but we need to discuss the type of oil to use... ;D
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Haven't seen a good oil thread in awhile. The level is one thing but we need to discuss the type of oil to use... ;D
:banana :banana :banana :banana :banana :banana :banana :banana :banana :banana :banana :banana :banana :banana :banana :banana :banana :banana :banana :banana :banana :banana :banana :banana :banana :banana :banana :banana :banana
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I heard you can run two quarts less if you use amsoil.
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I like me a good oil thread. I ran three quarts of 5 year old break in sludge for 624 miles. Not even amsoil so that's pretty good.
I will run mobil1 4T or castrol power rs with a mobil1 m1-110, k&n PS-1010, or fram xg7317 filter.
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I heard you can run two quarts less if you use amsoil.
That's quite correct. Different brands of oil fill the sump differently. This is the result of the Carlucci equation. It has direct bearings on the speed of light as well.
However, I would differ in that it's been scientifically proven that Amsoil (note the capital letter A) only will fill the sump at 1 and 3/4s quarts, not two. Please FAQ check before posting. And now, it's time for a martini... It only gets better from here on.
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Yes. Let's all meet at the ninth green at nine. Wear something nice.
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Capital idea!
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I like me a good oil thread. I ran three quarts of 5 year old break in sludge for 624 miles. Not even amsoil so that's pretty good.
I will run mobil1 4T or castrol power rs with a mobil1 m1-110, k&n PS-1010, or fram xg7317 filter.
I used Mobil 1 4T too, great oil! :thumbs:
K&N-1010? Connie uses a K&N-303, what's the 1010?
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I did my 600 mile service at 1600 miles three days after I bought the bike. Unfortunately the break-in sludge expanded, stretching the oil pan so now I have to use 4.7 quarts in order to have it between the lines on the site glass.
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Durn sludge gets you every time!
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I used Mobil 1 4T too, great oil! :thumbs:
K&N-1010? Connie uses a K&N-303, what's the 1010?
Automotive filter. PS-1010 Pro Series. Much better than the moto versions. There is also a HP-1010 that costs twice as much but I don't like it. It's white and has a 1-inch 6-point nut on the end. The filter media is a bit tighter so technically it's better. The PS is a longer version of the 303 for about 8 bucks. There is more filter media and greater capacity in the auto filters. Moto filters are overpriced, hard to find junk. Tell you what. I will school you on 35 auto filter options for the bike that may or may not be better than the 303. Can I link to another forum here or is that against the rules?
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Sure you can cross link..
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Okay, then I will post this link to get the party started. http://www.tiger-explorer.com/index.php/topic,10005.0.html (http://www.tiger-explorer.com/index.php/topic,10005.0.html)
I traded a Triumph Explorer for my Connie. They both run the same filter critical spec thread and diameter. I started a comparison of all semi- and readily available filters that will fit, primarily automotive filters which are typically of higher build quality with better filtration capability. I haven't gotten around to the formal review, but there are lots of pics and some preliminary notes. This is for informational and recreational purposes only and nothing I've posted constitutes a recommendation. I may do more with this, but I'm happy with my conclusion that the Fram XG7317, Mobil1 M1-110, and K&N PS-1010 are the best oil filters one could choose.
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Okay, then I will post this link to get the party started. http://www.tiger-explorer.com/index.php/topic,10005.0.html (http://www.tiger-explorer.com/index.php/topic,10005.0.html)
I traded a Triumph Explorer for my Connie. They both run the same filter critical spec thread and diameter. I started a comparison of all semi- and readily available filters that will fit, primarily automotive filters which are typically of higher build quality with better filtration capability. I haven't gotten around to the formal review, but there are lots of pics and some preliminary notes. This is for informational and recreational purposes only and nothing I've posted constitutes a recommendation. I may do more with this, but I'm happy with my conclusion that the Fram XG7317, Mobil1 M1-110, and K&N PS-1010 are the best oil filters one could choose.
You're going to have a hard time convincing anyone around here that Fram filters are better than any other filter. Most consider Fram to be junk.
I just took a quick look at your filter test thread.
Holy crap man!!! How much did you spend on oil filters?
Well done sir! :hail:
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You're going to have a hard time convincing anyone around here that Fram filters are better than any other filter. Most consider Fram to be junk.
I just took a quick look at your filter test thread.
Holy crap man!!! How much did you spend on oil filters?
Well done sir! :hail:
If you read his very very long posts, you would see that he doesn't like all Fram filters. He is only recommending a specific Fram filter.
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I think the average price was around 8.50 for 35 filters, so about 300 bucks. Maybe I will post a more formal review here. Folks on that forum had all the background information and had been following the rambling and musings for months. I didn’t give y'all the link to that!
Correct on Fram, twa. Besides the moto filter, which is a short, junky Extra Guard (PH Series), there are four automotive filters: Extra Guard, Tough Guard, Ultra Synthetic, and High Mileage. The Extra Guard (PH7317) is the OCD "orange can of death". The Tough Guard (TG7317) is the OCD painted silver with a silicone anti-drainback gasket instead of butyl. The High Mileage (HM7317) is the Tough Guard with an additive pod inside the can. Avoid all of these filters!
The Ultra Synthetic is a different beast altogether and is worthy of consideration.
It's just fun for enthusiasts
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Fram to me is a 4 letter word. I wouldn't use the brand on anything I have. I won't use a car filter or car oil in my bike either. That's me, though. Use what you want. It's your bike.
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Fram to me is a 4 letter word. I wouldn't use the brand on anything I have. I won't use a car filter or car oil in my bike either. That's me, though. Use what you want. It's your bike.
I suppose a car tire is definitely out of the question then. :o
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Depends on how wide it is... ;)
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Installed all my accessories today, no big issues. Can't find suitable zip tie off points for the Cox rad guard, though. At first I didn't think I was going to like the TechSpec stuff, but now I wish the whole bike was covered in it! I have every precut piece on the bike, 16 panels! Still love it!
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...At first I didn't think I was going to like the TechSpec stuff, but now I wish the whole bike was covered in it! I have every precut piece on the bike, 16 panels! Still love it!
mmm... somebody forgot pictures ;D