Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C10, aka Kawasaki Concours - The Original => The Bike - C10 => Topic started by: Engraverwilliam on May 28, 2015, 10:17:05 AM
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Smoke when I started it this morning
::) Took off the bottom. Oil Leak
here is a video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TgxsLnFq9VA (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TgxsLnFq9VA)
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Damn, I am sorry.
Is that oil or oil mixed with water?
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its brand new oil
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The oil looks watery. I think it may be the water pump leaking. This can be common with high mileage concours.
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Definitely not Coolant. It's my nice shiny new oil. Looks like I get to try out the new bike shop I found sooner than later. Gonna roll her in to Del Amo motorsports on sat.
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definatly the classic waterpump oil seal on the pump shaft...
excellent video by the way, please don't destroy the video or move its location, I'll ask the mods to add it to our sticky area, as it shows perfectly what it looks like when oil comes from the weep hole.
the shaft seal can be replaced, its about a 2 hour job even for the slowest worker, but replacing the pump is the way most folks attack it, either way the most time consuming part is doing the coolant drain and replace during the job.
check your oil level, its likely overfilled, this is the major cause for that seal failure.
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as long as I have the Gmail the vid will stay IM not one to delete anything. Thanks for the info. If anything I can compare what you said to what they come up with. I showed them (del amo) my Hudson invoices and they said they can probably do better for me in the future...now I will put that to the test.
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So how hard is it to replace the seal...for future reference.
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So how hard is it to replace the seal...for future reference.
e z
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e z
How about finding the seal MOB can it be sourced locally?
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How about finding the seal MOB can it be sourced locally?
unfortunatly not, I looked, and you know when I say I looked, it was in depth..
I found one close, but unfortunatly the o.d. was a half thousandth undersize, and that was not gonna work because these tend to pop out on their own already most of the time..
you can get them from Kaw tho, readily available from that p/n noted in the link Dave morrow posted with the process ( I gave the numbers in the coolant gremlins artical in the concourier also).
even so, when I get a new one and prepare for an install, I "expand" the outer shell by putting the flatside down on my anville, and use a thinwall socket I have that fits just inside of the seal "cup", and smack it with a hammer a good whack, to flare it out a smidge, so when I insert it I have to use force, its fully rubber coated, so it stays put well being flaredout about .001"
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unfortunatly not, I looked, and you know when I say I looked, it was in depth..
Would never expect anything less from you!
As always great info and thanks....
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:-\
Would never expect anything less from you!
As always great info and thanks....
I was hopefull to find one +.001" or so oversize, but to no avail.. bummer.
I go search again shortly tho, when I did my searching last time it was in 2010.
maybe something came out since, but I doubt it.
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I just want to add to this thread that the shop called to confirm what you all told me. Water pump seal. They are only charging me an hours worth of labor to fix it.
As always thanks for the quick answers and advice.
I expect no less from this great community!
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I believe MOB has it right. BTW, that single 10mm headed bolt that holds the water pipe to the engine can come loose. I had one drop out and all that kept the pipe in place was the nylon tie on the hose end. I checked several bikes since then and none of those bolts were firmly tightened. It is small and does not need much torque but it should be tighter than finger tight. In addition, the OCD part of me now puts two nylon ties, just in case.
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Where about is that bolt located?
I believe MOB has it right. BTW, that single 10mm headed bolt that holds the water pipe to the engine can come loose. I had one drop out and all that kept the pipe in place was the nylon tie on the hose end. I checked several bikes since then and none of those bolts were firmly tightened. It is small and does not need much torque but it should be tighter than finger tight. In addition, the OCD part of me now puts two nylon ties, just in case.
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Where about is that bolt located?
go back and watch his video, its visible right from the beginning, at the top of the screen, it holds the pipe to the waterpump. a bit further in the video you can see the other bolt on the pipe that is the coolant drain hole.
always make sure that tiewrap is in place, if it is forgotten, the ruber hose will contact the exhaust header and melt... its specifically outlined in the FSM also, I double tie wrap that hose also...
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Thanks MOB and Leo.
I have never looked under there like that. Where is the tiewrap? in front of the bolt on the pump side I am assuming.
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This is what i did last month when i put in new hoses and water pump, guess i should add a few more ties. is this what you guys are talking about?
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won't that ziptie just melt off??
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Yeah i guess it could and probably will over time, I'll add some wire.
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What is that nylon tie holding together? I really have never looked under there.
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it's just holding the pip over a little so it don't rest on the header and melt the water hose.
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What is that nylon tie holding together? I really have never looked under there.
it ties the two coolant lines together, and pulls them away from the hot exhaust. I've never had one melt off tho, I do pull the wrap pretty tight, and use two, it spaces the hose about a hlf inch or so from the header, and works fine.
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Thanks MOB and Jet86. I will certainly look into this and zip-tie those hoses with 2 ties.
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Thanks MOB and Jet86. I will certainly look into this and zip-tie those hoses with 2 ties.
the zipties pull the 2 metal pipes together, don't ziptie on the acual hose.