Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => The Bike - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: pothole on January 21, 2015, 07:24:15 PM
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'12, purchased new Oct. '13. 11k miles. No issues, just what I believe to be temporary piston slappage upon cold start. Disappears 10 seconds or so. Was a Honda auto tech for 100 years, lots of 90's engines did the same with no problems, except customer complaints. Did replace some pistons and some re-bores, problem solved SOMETIMES. Anyone with this noise? All normal otherwise. 2.5k oil changes,10-40, 20-50, doesn't matter. Don't really worry 'bout it, just curious, just continue to pound it. Thoughts?
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Try doing a search for "cam chain tensioner"
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More like cam chain slap...totally normal. If you don't like it, get an APE.
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Thanks. Just replaced the hydraulics on my VTR with mechanical, never thought about it on the C14 so soon? Will search, thanks guys.
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Mine starts out kicking and slapping, then the mad pow-ah of KiPass straightens it out within a few seconds before going over the rest of my bike. This happens upon start-up before each flight (http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/avatars/lol8.gif)
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More like cam chain slap...totally normal. If you don't like it, get an APE.
Thanks. Just replaced the hydraulics on my VTR with mechanical, never thought about it on the C14 so soon? Will search, thanks guys.
Here's a link to an APE : http://www.streetandcomp.com/store/itemdesc.asp?ic=42%2D9KTZX14&eq=&Tp= (http://www.streetandcomp.com/store/itemdesc.asp?ic=42%2D9KTZX14&eq=&Tp=)
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Do yourself a favor and spend $50 and 20 minutes of time and get an ape. Not having to listen to that caterwauling every startup is well worth it.
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My 08 make a little rattle upon first of day start up, for maybe 2 seconds. Been told here to ignore i,t as it wasn't problem causing. That's what I've done. No biggie to me. tp
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Mine rattled for 10-15 seconds every startup hot or cold. Now fixed.
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A well- known situation on the C-14. It is not piston slap, it is the cam chain rattling against the engine case when the bike is started after sitting for a while. Lots of info. about it, and some photos of why it happens have been posted; the original thread vaporized in the great forumnami of 2011 but there is some info. / photos here: http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=14243.msg174886#msg174886 (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=14243.msg174886#msg174886)
Brian
'12, purchased new Oct. '13. 11k miles. No issues, just what I believe to be temporary piston slappage upon cold start. Disappears 10 seconds or so. Was a Honda auto tech for 100 years, lots of 90's engines did the same with no problems, except customer complaints. Did replace some pistons and some re-bores, problem solved SOMETIMES. Anyone with this noise? All normal otherwise. 2.5k oil changes,10-40, 20-50, doesn't matter. Don't really worry 'bout it, just curious, just continue to pound it. Thoughts?
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It is a bit annoying, mostly to others. "WTF is that clankin'?" Used Kriegers on the VTR, two req'd, nicely made. A bit trickier on the v-twin. Came with gaskets, too. I'll decide soon whether or not to replace it. Thanks again everyone.
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Do yourself a favor and spend $50 and 20 minutes of time and get an ape. Not having to listen to that caterwauling every startup is well worth it.
I will consider doing this next as the rattling is the only thing that totally pisses me off every time I start the engine. Now that you promise it only takes 20 minutes, I'm in.
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I'm not 'fixing' it. I like the noise. Makes me feel like I'm alive....well, that and the vodka (obligatory disclaimer - not whilst I'm riding, of course)
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I'm not 'fixing' it. I like the noise. Makes me feel like I'm alive....well, that and the vodka (obligatory disclaimer - not whilst I'm riding, of course)
Yeah, I think it is a non-issue. The noise, not the vodka, although I will stick with a good red wine or a nice IPA. :chugbeer:
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I will consider doing this next as the rattling is the only thing that totally pisses me off every time I start the engine. Now that you promise it only takes 20 minutes, I'm in.
Disclaimer: My APE did not come with any instructions. Videos I looked at had you finding top dead center on the engine first. I assume that was to find minimum tension on the chain. I didn't do the thing with finding TDC. Totally unnecessary IMO. Pull the OEM CCT out. On the APE CCT turn the adjuster bolt out to match the length of the OEM CCT with the plunger pushed in. With no CCT installed make sure you do not turn the engine at all. Install the APE. Turn the adjuster in by hand (no wrench) until you cannot turn it anymore. Back it out a turn. Start the bike. With the engine running, turn the adjuster in by hand until it gets tight and back it out 1/2 turn. Now use 2 wrenches to tighten the lock nut without moving the adjuster. If you remove the engine cover to find TDC it will take more than 20 min. Also takes some time to remove the right side mid faring.
Disclaimer #2: use these instructions at your own risk.
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That clunky noise reminds me every time I start my bike that it was designed by Kawasaki ;D
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Disclaimer: My APE did not come with any instructions.
Neither did these and look what happened..
http://youtu.be/BAZ_0tvqZbM (http://youtu.be/BAZ_0tvqZbM)
That clunky noise reminds me every time I start my bike that it was designed by Kawasaki ;D
For 90k essentially trouble free miles or more....don't forget that part.
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...and only if your fob is fresh.
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Neither did these and look what happened..
http://youtu.be/BAZ_0tvqZbM (http://youtu.be/BAZ_0tvqZbM)
For 90k essentially trouble free miles or more....don't forget that part.
If you view the clip backwards you'll find an extensive explanation of how KIPASS was integrated to bring the apes to "life". Just like the Concours.......
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Disclaimer #2: use these instructions at your own risk.
I used your method on the Hayabusa, when it had CCT problems back in 2000, and most owners installed an APE CCT while waiting for a cure. But it's not ideal to have a fully-manual device in there IMO, even for us who know what we're doing. And you need to adjust it periodically, just like if you had chain final drive... especially when bike is new (more stretch). The best solution is what Suzuki did with the redesigned CCT, which added a ratcheting mechanism; no more chain-slapping noise ever. Is Kawasaki still using oil-pressure alone??? Thought all bike manufacturers were using that proven oil-pressure/ratcheting design by now.
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I used your method on the Hayabusa, when it had CCT problems back in 2000, and most owners installed an APE CCT while waiting for a cure. But it's not ideal to have a fully-manual device in there IMO, even for us who know what we're doing. And you need to adjust it periodically, just like if you had chain final drive... especially when bike is new (more stretch). The best solution is what Suzuki did with the redesigned CCT, which added a ratcheting mechanism; no more chain-slapping noise ever. Is Kawasaki still using oil-pressure alone??? Thought all bike manufacturers were using that proven oil-pressure/ratcheting design by now.
Good point. Mine had almost 50,000 miles on it when I installed the ape so I think most of any stretch is already done. The kawi CCT does of have a ratcheting mechanism but allows way too much movement. There is a slot that allows almost 1/8" for the ratcheting spring and almost that again for each notch. My bike apparently stopped stretching at just the worst point and could not get to the next ratchet point. It slapped every start up for a long time and even a little at normal idle. Completely quiet now.
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Kawi is good at that, making parts that rattle around. Ask any KLR650 owner about the doohickey. How it better be replaced or the chain that controls the balancer will crater the engine, same problem since they were first made. Worse with Gen 1 models, but still happens today, as the retention spring used is crap and too long. As long as the C14 engine is not in danger, I'm ok with it.
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There's no danger. Back away from the bike.
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Yep. speaking of vodka, have you tried or even have TITOS in your area? Made in Austin,TX, and distilled six times. It is very flavorful and smooth, over ice or as a mix. Only type alcohol I have consumed for at least 10 years now. If you have it there, try it. It won't disappoint.
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Yep. speaking of vodka,
Who was speaking of vodka?
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Who was speaking of vodka?
Jim did on reply #7, I do believe... TITOS is good stuff, for anyone and anything that ails ya. tp
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Jim did on reply #7, I do believe...
Oh! That was like 16 hours ago and on another whole page :) Sorry, didn't even notice. I even was scrolling back saying "huh??" and used Control-F on both pages (apparently I must have mistyped the search key).
Anyway, that will teach you for not quoting!!!
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Anyway, that will teach you for not quoting!!!
Max, you are sounding way too much like my ex. It was ALWAYS my fault, what ever it was. . . ;D
Glad you are feeling better. Winter time really sucks, especially here. One day it's 70, the next 33. Body can never adjust...tp
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Do yourself a favor and spend $50 and 20 minutes of time and get an ape. Not having to listen to that caterwauling every startup is well worth it.
Agree. Ordered. Ape. Thanks.
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Jim did on reply #7, I do believe... TITOS is good stuff, for anyone and anything that alis ya. tp
Never heard of it. Currently drinking Belvedere and Effen. I really love Effen.. Give me some Effen vodka, bar keep! I could use some Effen Vodka. This Effen vodka is smooth as silk. I just love Effen vodka... I can go on and on. It's just so Effen good. The C14 is Effen good!
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I just love Effen [] It's just so Effen good. The C14 is Effen good!
F'ing <snicker> :)
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Disclaimer: My APE did not come with any instructions. Videos I looked at had you finding top dead center on the engine first. I assume that was to find minimum tension on the chain. I didn't do the thing with finding TDC. Totally unnecessary IMO. Pull the OEM CCT out. On the APE CCT turn the adjuster bolt out to match the length of the OEM CCT with the plunger pushed in. With no CCT installed make sure you do not turn the engine at all. Install the APE. Turn the adjuster in by hand (no wrench) until you cannot turn it anymore. Back it out a turn. Start the bike. With the engine running, turn the adjuster in by hand until it gets tight and back it out 1/2 turn. Now use 2 wrenches to tighten the lock nut without moving the adjuster. If you remove the engine cover to find TDC it will take more than 20 min. Also takes some time to remove the right side mid faring.
Disclaimer #2: use these instructions at your own risk.
"I'm an Ape Man, I'm an Ape Ape Man, oh I'm an Ape Man. I'm a King Kong Man, I'm a Voodoo man, oh I'm an Ape Man." One of Ray Davies best tunes.