Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C10, aka Kawasaki Concours - The Original => The Bike - C10 => Topic started by: Charliedog on October 30, 2014, 09:30:02 AM
-
My 2000 C10 has an oil leak on the left side of the crankcase, the area around the oil level sight glass is wet. I am pretty sure it is the clutch push rod seal. I replaced the water pump about 20,000 miles ago, and this is not the same leak as then.
I have looked thru the service manual and the on-line parts diagrams, and the only seal I can find is right behind the slave cylinder, btw a spring and a collar-part number 92049-1165. Can someone verify that this is the correct part number? I don't distrust the parts guys at my local dealer-I was a parts guy for several years, I just like to look up the part myself and walk in with the number.
I have searched the forum and seen references to how easy this seal is to replace. Do I need to drain the fluid out of the clutch lines? No problem if needed, it's due to be changed anyway. Any tricks to getting the oil seal out? TIA
-
Easy job. Bike on center stand. Pull off clutch slave cylinder housing. Leave it hanging on the line, just do not pull the clutch lever. The clutch pushrod pull straight out. Gently drill a couple small holes in the face of the seal. Screw a couple small sheet metal screws in the seal. Grab the screws with small vise grips. Pull it out. Grease up the new seal and tap it in.
Take a good look at the clutch pushrod. Clean it and make sure there is no rough place where it goes through the seal. Use something like a wire wheel or 400 grit to make it as smooth as possible. Grease the rod and carefully push it in the seal, being careful not to crimp the seal lips. Put it together and test drive. Easy job.
-
Thanks. Exactly what I was hoping for. This is a great forum...
-
The clutch rod does have a slight taper to it so install the same way it came out.
-
Uhh, once you pull the rod out... you don't need to drill the seal, simply grab a #10 pan head screw by the threads with a pair of cjhannelloks, shove the head thru the hole, push it sidways, and pull the seal out...ez
Mic the rod, small diameter goes in first, fat end is the outer end..
-
simply grab a #10 pan head screw by the threads with a pair of cjhannelloks, shove the head thru the hole, push it sidways, and pull the seal out...ez
Was thinking the same thing - especially since you can push the seal all the way into the bevel gear case.
When installing the new seal, use the back side of a socket to only push it in flush with the case. There is no lip on the back to seat the seal against. If you get aggressive in pushing it in, its possible to push it all the way through the hole where it falls into the case turning an easy job into something a lot more complicated.
-
Yep, the drill and screw pull is resigned to the shift shaft, and balancer seals, because the shafts are still in position, the clutch rod is ez..pz....