Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C10, aka Kawasaki Concours - The Original => The Bike - C10 => Topic started by: croach1776 on June 17, 2011, 09:30:02 PM
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Just pulled my rear shock and am draining it overnight. Prior to re-fill and install, I plan on cleaning it up, areas of interest are
rubber boot/gaiter, bolts/zirk fittings and rear linkage. Mainly what should I use to clean it and are there any special techniques or gotchas I should be aware of. Thanks
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http://web.archive.org/web/20050523210326/www.ldrider.ca/techpages/rearshockoilchange.htm (http://web.archive.org/web/20050523210326/www.ldrider.ca/techpages/rearshockoilchange.htm)
Check out the above web page. The biggest thing to remember is refill the shock with suspension fluid s-l-o-w-l-y! I used a large hypodermic needle. And when you put air back into the shock, do it with a hand pump.
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Thanks. Main mistake was didnt support rear wheel but used floor jack to support at bottom of linkage. Do you think Brake cleaner will work on crud on linkage bolts and soap and water on the rubber boot on shock. Also, what type of grease do I need on the linkage bolts.
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Be careful when you replace the graduated knob on the end of the damping-adjustment rod. As more than one of us has discovered (note requests for a replacement knob in the "parts wanted" forum), only slight overtightening will break-off the end. Plumb the depth of the threaded hole in the knob and mark it on the rod ---- don't go beyond that point, instead back-off to get the graduation marks visible from the top!
A small and non-fatal but really irritating 'gotchya' at the last step of re-assembly :(
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Brake clean should cut the crud nicely. Just a regular $2 or $3 tube of trailer bearing grease will be plenty sufficient for the needle bearings. I used the same stuff I grease my boat trailer bearings with.
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Thanks. When I got up today ( I work weekend graveyard) I measured the drained fluid (black sediment on bottom of jar), it measured almost 8 oz. I reinstalled the air hose before cleaning it. I used purple power and water on the shock and lower links. Cleaned up really good. I used a syringe with a needle to refill, no problem with air bubbles. Reinstalled the air hose and put some air in shock. I will test it tomorrow to see if air bleed off. If not then will put about 25 lbs of air in it and re-install just the top bolt. I am going to wait until monday after I get off work to get grease and grease gun and also some spare zerks. Then I will clean up all the linkages and remaining zerks. I think I will pre-fill the two linkage bolts I had to remove and spread some of the grease on all mating surfaces and needle bearings, etc. Then re-install and hope I dont break the damping rod.
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I'd check shock piston surface for scratches. You may want to "clean the oil wiper seal" by inserting a thin plastic piece or something between the piston and seal and carefully work it around the shock to remove any debris.
No air pressure in shock of course.
also, if the piston has some small scratches you can smooth them or remove them with like 600 wet/dry sandpaper. Use crosshatch pattern.
The rubber boot can be removed from shock with a little prying to gain easy piston access.
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Any suggestions for grease gun and fittings that will work on the Connie zerks. I plan on taking a linkage bolt with the zerk to a auto parts store to see if they carry one that will work. Thanks for all the good suggestions and advice.