Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C10, aka Kawasaki Concours - The Original => Accessories and Modifications - C10 => Topic started by: RFH87_Connie on August 19, 2014, 05:18:51 AM
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Not exactly the correct location to post this, but they could be used on the bike just as well. My boat motor has a "black box" with about 10 wires going to it, all with those clear silicone (plactic?) waterproof connectors on them to connect it to the wire harness. I don't think these have to be waterproof anyway, as they are up under the engine cover and protected. 4 of the heavier gauge (14-16ga?) connectors are burned black and melted pretty bad (like my old GL500). I can see this going bad as soon as it goes back in the water. Does anyone know where or who sells appropriate connectors to replace these? The boat shop was no help as they just wanted to sell a new harness and box. I have plenty of slack in the wiring still, I just can't find a decent connector. I thought about soldering but am undecided. I also searched the web but get way to many to look at that are just junk. I do have a Grainger's near me but haven't stopped by to ask (didn't see them on their website).
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Beings you have a Grainger close by check these out. I know the talk (I don't necessarily disagree with it) about crimp connectors, but I have used these and they do work. Can shrink them with a match.
http://www.grainger.com/product/3M-Butt-Splice-Connector-3HY92?searchQuery=3hy92 (http://www.grainger.com/product/3M-Butt-Splice-Connector-3HY92?searchQuery=3hy92)
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Thanks. Maybe I should be more clear as I have a boxes of those in blue, red, and yellow. I am hoping to use connectors that can be pulled apart if needed (male and female ends), not the permanent type. Otherwise, I would just solder. They can be seen in the upper right of the pic. They are also the same in the lower center. The water is from me degreasing it. It is usually never wet inside here.
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I buy them at any auto parts store, fill them with silicone grease for extra protection, sometimes put heat shrink over them.
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http://www.grainger.com/product/TE-CONNECTIVITY-Male-Disconnect-10K473?searchQuery=10k473 (http://www.grainger.com/product/TE-CONNECTIVITY-Male-Disconnect-10K473?searchQuery=10k473) :chugbeer:
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Those are looking about right.
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:banana :banana :banana :banana :banana :banana :banana :banana :banana :banana
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I think I have found something I like. The leads that are burned are coming from the stator and charging system as near as I can tell so there would be high amperage and any resistance would be bad. Two of these from the local hobby shop should do the trick.
http://secure.hobbyzone.com/catalog/HZ/eflite/eflite_connectors/EFLAEC303.html (http://secure.hobbyzone.com/catalog/HZ/eflite/eflite_connectors/EFLAEC303.html)
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I've used a pile of these on my old KZ's.
http://miniurl.com/668bc (http://miniurl.com/668bc)
Check the next to last row...
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In the past, I have used Posi-Locks http://www.posi-lock.com/posilock.html (http://www.posi-lock.com/posilock.html)
To waterproof them, I just use shrink tubing. If I ever need to take them off just simply cut the shrink tubing.
I have used these connectors for years and can not ever recall one of them coming apart.
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In the past, I have used Posi-Locks ... I have used these connectors for years and can not ever recall one of them coming apart.
Nice. I forgot about those.
And Bob, I can't view your site at work for some reason.
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In the past, I have used Posi-Locks http://www.posi-lock.com/posilock.html (http://www.posi-lock.com/posilock.html)
To waterproof them, I just use shrink tubing. If I ever need to take them off just simply cut the shrink tubing.
I have used these connectors for years and can not ever recall one of them coming apart.
Definitely +1 on the posilocks. They are expensive as hell though, so when they say they are reusable, REUSE THEM! 8)
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Definitely +1 on the posilocks. They are expensive as hell though, so when they say they are reusable, REUSE THEM! 8)
I'm going to have to give them a shot. Maybe this:
http://www.jpcycles.com/product/360-375 (http://www.jpcycles.com/product/360-375)
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Might give this company a look.... http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/Sealed/sealed.html (http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/Sealed/sealed.html)
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Molex(like) connectors are nice, but crimping them sucks. You have to have the right tool to do it, and if you bought a crappy crimper at radioshack, that aint the right tool. When I converted my givi e52 into a powerhouse I used a 12 pin molex connector for the harness and its connected under the seat. I dont really need it to be any more weatherproof, but I can always wrap it in elec tape.
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Thanks gPink. I browsed their site and found the answer. Looks like this place carries the clear sheaths and connectors that i'm looking for. It may sound a little overkill, but the connectors on this motor are notorious at burning the connectors when a little resistance is created (it's the charging system). A few are already pretty far down that path. I'll solder and crimp the new ones. Breaking down on the side of the road is just a little different than breaking down in the middle of the river with a literal "boat load" of people.
Covers:
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/Sheaths/sheaths.html (http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/Sheaths/sheaths.html)
Terminals:
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Terminals/Open_Barrel/open_barrel.html (http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Terminals/Open_Barrel/open_barrel.html)
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For extra protection you might coat with dielectric grease before you snap them together.
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Molex(like) connectors are nice, but crimping them sucks. You have to have the right tool to do it, and if you bought a crappy crimper at radioshack, that aint the right tool.
This is true for any connector or terminal. You need a real crimper, the cheap ones just flatten the terminal onto the wire. This is not a good connection as far as low-resistance or longevity.
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Never fear - I got dad's 40 year old Mac Tools crimper in the box that is well up for the task. And I do like (and use) the dielectric grease on this type of connection.
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You may know this but those contacts are double- crimp types. They require a crimping tool that will both crimp the terminal onto the wire but also a larger crimping station to crimp the last part of the connector onto the wire's insulation.
Brian
Thanks gPink. I browsed their site and found the answer. Looks like this place carries the clear sheaths and connectors that i'm looking for. It may sound a little overkill, but the connectors on this motor are notorious at burning the connectors when a little resistance is created (it's the charging system). A few are already pretty far down that path. I'll solder and crimp the new ones. Breaking down on the side of the road is just a little different than breaking down in the middle of the river with a literal "boat load" of people.
Covers:
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/Sheaths/sheaths.html (http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/Sheaths/sheaths.html)
Terminals:
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Terminals/Open_Barrel/open_barrel.html (http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Terminals/Open_Barrel/open_barrel.html)
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I'll caution you on using Faston 1/4" blade connectors for charging system repairs, those are barely rated for 15amps max on an AC circuit, and reduced from there on a DC circuit. If you use them after you do the crimp, double up and solder the wire junction on the tab for a more reliable connection, jmho.
Better yet is what I found as a better answer (fixing C10 generator connections) is to actually do a soldered splice of 2 wires to each existing wire, and heatshrink that connection, then use 2 Faston blades for each wire in the circuit. This will double the capacity at the actual connection, reducing heat generated downstream in time due to either tab developing an anodic resistive coating... you should never have the problem arise again afterwards.
Yes its a bit more time, and double the connections, but single point of failure due to the redundancy is well worth the effort.
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If i'm understanding your recommendation correctly, you are saying to add a "Y" to each one (actually a "V"). Sounds doable.
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If i'm understanding your recommendation correctly, you are saying to add a "Y" to each one (actually a "V"). Sounds doable.
Yes..
solder 2 wires to each existing wire, and then install Fastons to both the pigtails.
This allows a better continuity, and insures if one connection becomes compromised, the other will still carry load.
make sure you use equal or greater wire gauge than the oem wire for the add ons.