Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => The Bike - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: dinodanny on June 16, 2011, 06:55:12 AM
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What kind of mileage are you all getting from the front brake pads? Particularly on the 08.
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27,455
Ninja
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18,xxx and still have a few thousand miles left on it,I hope
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22,000 on the original set, 28,000 on the second set.
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12k, but I don't trust the stealer that serviced my bike back then. I go to a new one lately and they are truly reliable and responsible, but I've done only 8k with the new ones so far :-[
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Just under 20 on the OEM, 18 on Carbonne Loraines, absolutely toast, but great once they set in, still on the Galfers, tad over 10.
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About 21k on the originals. Still on the second set with only a few thousand on them.
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So far I have 19000 on my 09' and the pads still look fairly fat.
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I'm at 14,7xx on my '09 and mine are looking thin. Got a new set standing by to replace them.
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I just replaced my OEM pads with Galfer at around 11k.....still had at least half pad left.
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I just replaced my OEM pads with Galfer at around 11k.....still had at least half pad left.
Why so early if you don't mind me asking?
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replaced mine (09) at 18,342. I might have made it to the 20,000 mark.
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Why so early if you don't mind me asking?
Because I have A.D.D......... :o
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Because I have A.D.D......... :o
Love it! ;D ;D ;D :thumbs: :hail:
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Because I have A.D.D......... :o
non native English speaker here: what is ADD? :-[
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Because I have A.D.D......... :o
Among other things....
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non native English speaker here: what is ADD? :-[
Attention deficit disorder(ADD) is not just a problem in children. If you were diagnosed with childhood ADD/ADHD, chances are, you’ve carried at least some of the symptoms into adulthood. But even if you were never diagnosed with ADD/ADHD as a child, that doesn’t mean you can’t be affected by it as an adult.
Poor Brian...................... :rotflmao: :chugbeer:
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I went over 20,000 on the first set on my '09 when they started to squeal, so I thought they were ready to be replaced. I ordered the 2010 pads (new pad material, still HH scintered). EASIEST pads to remove ever! But it turned out I still had probably another 5-10,000 miles still available. I changed them anyway (front and rear).
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I got 17k out of the OEM. Though I probably had about 3-5k still on them. But since i am heading out on a 3k trip next week, I decided to play it safe and give the bike some new pads. Went with EBC's,
-David
Athens, GA
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It's a 2010, not a 2008, but 21630 and counting on the first set. They are getting very thin though, so I already have new ones out in the shop, on standby.
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I just checked mine yesterday as I put a new tire on - at just over 25,000 miles it looks like they are nearing their end. I looked up the OEM pads on Bike Bandit and it appears the fronts are about $62 each set X 2, and the rears are $74. Can anyone tell me what a decent price is at a dealer, or what aftermarket pads you like? I can't remember the last time I had to put new pads on a motorcycle.
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I just checked mine yesterday as I put a new tire on - at just over 25,000 miles it looks like they are nearing their end. I looked up the OEM pads on Bike Bandit and it appears the fronts are about $62 each set X 2, and the rears are $74. Can anyone tell me what a decent price is at a dealer, or what aftermarket pads you like? I can't remember the last time I had to put new pads on a motorcycle.
www.murphkits.com (http://www.murphkits.com)
I like the EBC HHs. The Carbonne Lorains work great wet or dry at street speeds, but track speeds? EBCs...
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www.murphkits.com (http://www.murphkits.com)
I like the EBC HHs. The Carbonne Lorains work great wet or dry at street speeds, but track speeds? EBCs...
Thanks - ordered the EBCs.
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are the stock pads closest to the hh or non hh pads ?? ordered some rears but went stock because i was unsure.
i have heard the hh are harder on rotors and noiser than stock or non hh ??
rear pads are crazy expensive, cost is like 55-60$.
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After front rotors were replaced at 20k miles, original pads weren't contacting entire surface. Apparantly the warped rotors scalloped out the face of the pads. Replaced them with EBC HH pads. Got a great deal on Ebay. $85 for front set shipped, $105 for front and rear shipped. I also found a pair of rear's for $18, which I bought for the future. My original pads looked like they had about 20% of their usable life still in them. I think if rotors hadn't been a problem, I might have been able to go 24-25K before replacing them. Rears were worn out by around 18k, replaced when I had to get a new PR3 due to a nail in my last one.
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I installed a set of the Dunlopad dp220 rear pads this weekend on my 2008 abs. They are a nice improvement even though their rating of "GG" is onto as strong as the oem rear "HH" pads. I felt like the oem pads did nothing, or offered no feel...then abs kicked in. Very little feel for the in-between positions. The DP220's made this range much broader. They also run very clean.
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so oem front and rear are HH ??
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Left caliper outboard pads nearly to metal at 20k, inboard and all the right calipers pads are still showing the wear groove. Rear pads not showing any noticeable wear yet. Left rotor appears to be warped.
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so oem front and rear are HH ??
Yes, the OEM front, and rear have "HH" printed on them. I'm not sure it means much, though. Pads rated "HH" from other sources feel different. Also, max grip can often feel like an on/off switch. For the rear brakes, especially. The DP "GG" pads I added to the rear offer much more feel and range before abs kicks in.
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Yes.
To the best of my knowledge, all brake pads for a C-14, both aftermarket as well as OEM, are HH rated. The worst brake pads available, at least from a name- brand manufacturer, are really very good pads.
Brian
so oem front and rear are HH ??
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So if the 2010 pads fit to the 2009 those are cheaper than the 09 ones, but my doubt is if each set of the front ones come with 8 or 4 pads
http://www.ronayers.com/Fiche/TypeID/26/Type/Motorcycle/MakeID/3/Make/Kawasaki/YearID/51/Year/2010/ModelID/8478/Model/Concours_14_(ZG1400-DAF)/GroupID/408704/Group/Front_Brake (http://www.ronayers.com/Fiche/TypeID/26/Type/Motorcycle/MakeID/3/Make/Kawasaki/YearID/51/Year/2010/ModelID/8478/Model/Concours_14_(ZG1400-DAF)/GroupID/408704/Group/Front_Brake)
SKU QTY Your Price List Price Total Price
596892 PAD-ASSY-BRAKE (43082-0071) X $56.61 $74.58 $56.61 Those are for the 09
Added to order on: 10/16/2011 @ 11:44AM You Save: $17.97 (24%)
1319941 PAD-ASSY-BRAKE (43082-0112) X $47.51 $62.60 $47.51 those are for the 10
Added to order on: 10/16/2011 @ 11:48AM You Save: $15.09 (24%)
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I have a new set of pads in hand and may start working on it today. I just looked at the service manual. They appear to be showing changing the pads without even taking the calipers off the bike. I can't see changing the pads without taking the calipers off first - am I right? It only adds a few minutes to the job anyway, but I can't picture pushing the pistons back in and squeezing the pads in place while the calipers are still mounted on the bike.
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I have a new set of pads in hand and may start working on it today. I just looked at the service manual. They appear to be showing changing the pads without even taking the calipers off the bike. I can't see changing the pads without taking the calipers off first - am I right? It only adds a few minutes to the job anyway, but I can't picture pushing the pistons back in and squeezing the pads in place while the calipers are still mounted on the bike.
No reason to remove the calipers at all. Very easy job the pads slide right in.
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No reason to remove the calipers at all. Very easy job the pads slide right in.
Well, I'll go at it that way - it just seems like it will be difficult to push the pistons back, but maybe once I go out and start working it will become more obvious. Thanks.
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knowing how filthy these pads make every part near them, I suggest removing the caliper for cleaning during the service. this allows you the peace of mind to completly spray down ,and clean all the components involved, and inspect to insure the caliper is free of "hitch hikers" (debris/stones/grit etc) before installing the pads.
It also offers the best opportunity to clean the piston completely prior to pressing it inside the seals, if this isn't done, seal life is greatly reduced/compromised. A can of Brake-Kleen and an old toothbrush work fine.
I also smear a small amount of silicone anti-chatter paste on the interface of the pads to the piston, difficult to do with the caliper mounted. ;)
Time spent is minimal, the knowledge it is done right is worth the time.
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knowing how filthy these pads make every part near them, I suggest removing the caliper for cleaning during the service. this allows you the peace of mind to completly spray down ,and clean all the components involved, and inspect to insure the caliper is free of "hitch hikers" (debris/stones/grit etc) before installing the pads.
It also offers the best opportunity to clean the piston completely prior to pressing it inside the seals, if this isn't done, seal life is greatly reduced/compromised. A can of Brake-Kleen and an old toothbrush work fine.
I also smear a small amount of silicone anti-chatter paste on the interface of the pads to the piston, difficult to do with the caliper mounted. ;)
Time spent is minimal, the knowledge it is done right is worth the time.
Thanks. I normally do the same also.
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Yep, remove the two pad retaining pins and swap the caliper pads.
I remove the calipers to change mine though just to clean around the pistons. In fact, I actually take the caliper halves apart to clean them- it is easy to do and makes cleaning them far easier, especially the inside. I believe that ring of crud that forms on the piston is driven back into the dust seal and somewhat into the fluid seal proper and shortens the life of both seals. It is actually one of the very few things that I probably take too much time and effort on regarding maintenance; I usually lean toward the 'close enough' side of things like exact fluid levels, what type of lube to use, etc., etc.
Either way works though and changing the pads with the calipers on the bike is absolutely easier and faster. Also you do not have to open the hydraulic system and drain it- bleeding the hydraulics on this bike can be a real chore without some type of power bleeder. As I do have a power bleeder it is not an issue but having spent some time and pretty bad words trying to bleed these systems by hand and using hand- pumped vacuum tools I can see why people would try to avoid having to do it when just changing pads.
Brian
I have a new set of pads in hand and may start working on it today. I just looked at the service manual. They appear to be showing changing the pads without even taking the calipers off the bike. I can't see changing the pads without taking the calipers off first - am I right? It only adds a few minutes to the job anyway, but I can't picture pushing the pistons back in and squeezing the pads in place while the calipers are still mounted on the bike.
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Thanks for the advice Brian.