Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C10, aka Kawasaki Concours - The Original => The Bike - C10 => Topic started by: tabb212 on August 07, 2014, 09:07:04 AM
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Just picked up a 95 Connie and noticed a small leak coming from the fuel hose at the nipple of the fuel tap. The hose may be old and ready to be replaced, the guy at the local bike shop gave me a length of hose he said would fit. It is a snug fit compared to the old one but it is also much thinner than the old. Should I look for the thicker hose instead of trying to put this new hose on the bike?
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The quick answer is it is 5/16" hose you are looking for. Some like black and some like clear. Just a word of warning, re-attaching the hose at the carb nipple is pretty tough with the carbs on the bike but can be done with some patience and a good pair of needle-nose pliers.
And welcome to the forum!
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I appreciate your response, I will look to make sure the new hose is 5/16. Question, when I compare the thickness of the old hose to the new one, does it matter, because the new hose is noticeable thinner.
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The thicker hose (the one on the right) is on the bike, the thinner hose is the replacement.
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My thoughts would be it doesn't matter as long as it is fuel line and not vacuum line. This is not a pressurized system, it is only gravity feed. I just worked on my boat and used the silver/gray fuel line that is safe for alcohol fuels that is a little thicker walled than the black rubber hose that was on it (1999 vintage).
One of the main concern when someone replaces the fuel line on this particular bike is to get the correct length of hose. Hook it to the carbs first, then cut to the desired length. Obviously, use the old hose as a model if it looks correct. If a kink occurs, it will starve it at high rpm or cause it to act like it is having vapor lock. As the hose warms from engine heat it can form a bend or kink where a nice arc was when it was cold if its being pushed or tugged. Watch out for this.
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My son figured out an easy way to put the hose on the Carbs.
After the old hose is removed and the new hose is cut to approx. the correct length;
Slide a long "thin" Philips screwdriver thru the inside of the hose with the tip sticking out the end.
Place the end of the screwdriver inside of the hose barb on the carbs.
Slide the hose down and over the hose barb of the Tee. (While doing this, take care,,,, DO NOT APPLY FORCE TO HOSE FITTING)
Remove screwdriver.
The screwdriver I use is 3/16" or 1/4" Diameter and is about 10" long.
Hope this helps,
Ride safe, Ted
PS: The only problem that might arise from the thinner walled hose is "it might kink more easily than a thicker walled hose".
When you jnstall the hose, look closely that it is not trying to kink.
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Good point Ted. I just posted a similar procedure for the same original post on the other site.
I would also emphasize keeping pressure OFF the screwdriver or rod that's inserted in the 'T' fuel tube between carbs 2 & 3, so it doesn't get cracked.
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Good point Stash.
I went back and added that "important point" to my original note....
Ride safe, Ted
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Place the end of the screwdriver inside of the hose barb on the carbs.
I've been doing this for years using a stiff piece of 3mm (1/8") wire. To slide the hose over the barb more easily put some lubricant (fuel will do) on the inside of the hose and use a twisting motion.
Regards, Russell
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that will work with Tygon because it's really stiff. I seriously doubt it will work with the fuel hose the OP has, it's silicone and very flexible. I have it on my bike. Steve
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I had planned to try the copper pipe or similar method and use that to guide the tube on, inserting the tube thru the pipe but now I'm wondering.
Maybe it's possible to have the small wire clamp on the tube by using the screwdriver/wire method and then you wouldn't have to worry about getting that into position afterward.
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If you have them, use a pair of the 11" needle nose pliers with the long handles and the slightly curved nose (20 degrees) from Harbor Freight to move the spring clamp into position, down in between the carbs, once the hose is in place. It's a piece of cake with these long curved pliers. You can get them on sale for $3.99 (worth every penny). I used standard 5/16 fuel line which slips on and off the carb nipple easily without the need for a guide rod.
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that will work with Tygon because it's really stiff. I seriously doubt it will work with the fuel hose the OP has, it's silicone and very flexible. I have it on my bike. Steve
You could be right as I don't know what mine is. It's black, thin, without reinforcing, and reasonably flexible. I don't use any clamps - no leaks.
Regards, Russell