Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => Accessories and modifications - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: rocknrod on July 25, 2014, 06:15:45 AM
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I taped off my saddle bags and used 3M Paint Defender Spray on the tops and fronts last night.
Checked em out this morning and have PROOF - I shouldn't paint cars or motorcycles. :-[
Actually it doesn't look bad, I have a spot on each bag where It blotched a bit but over all's not bad.
Says it completely cures in one to four days so I wont wash or wax for a few days.
I just didn't want to cover the tops in non skid or something. Hopefully It will keep my boots from scratching them too much. I tried the actual 3M film from tank slapper but I couldn't make it stick on the contours.
http://3mauto.com/paint-defender-spray-film.html (http://3mauto.com/paint-defender-spray-film.html)
(http://3mauto.com/media/catalog/product/cache/24/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/p/a/paint-defender-spray-film.jpg)
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We can't make fun of a box. Show us the paint job. ;)
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I bought that same kit but never used it after I saw 'Protects for One Year'. What happens then? Peel it off and re-apply?
I read that it does not come off easily.
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If you don't wax first then yes it will be harder to come off. Hence the the install kit you also should buy.
I will get a pic latter today.
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Too late for me. the right side case have been hit by my boots 1000's of times now. Now I mount the bike like a horse from the left peg. Wished I had done that from the beginning. No matter how careful I was I'd still hit it every 3rd or 4th time.
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In 45 years of riding, I don't think I've ever mounted from the throttle side
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I think that I have on occasion just to be different.
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And as you see I'm obviously not at work :) You can see a line right now I think that's from the wax and removing the tape. That should be a little less visible when I clean it up.
(http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd285/capstain/IMG_0849_zps90b076f3.jpg)
(http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd285/capstain/IMG_0851_zps28f65078.jpg)
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In 45 years of riding, I don't think I've ever mounted from the throttle side
Me neither but it is the throttle side case that gets hit by my boot as I'm swinging it over the bike.
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Me neither but it is the throttle side case that gets hit by my boot as I'm swinging it over the bike.
There is the problem. Don't attempt to swing your leg over the back of the bike and bags. Simply face the seat from the left side, lift your right leg up bent at the knee, extend your foot forward and over the seat and then turn your body to face the front of the bike.
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There is the problem. Don't attempt to swing your leg over the back of the bike and bags. Simply face the seat from the left side, lift your right leg up bent at the knee, extend your foot forward and over the seat and then turn your body to face the front of the bike.
If you sit down to pee you won't splash the toilet, either.
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There is the problem. Don't attempt to swing your leg over the back of the bike and bags. Simply face the seat from the left side, lift your right leg up bent at the knee, extend your foot forward and over the seat and then turn your body to face the front of the bike.
May be easy for you but I'm not as flexible as I used to be. Of course if I'm thinking about it and being careful I don't hit it. But when riding a long day and on and off I get lazy and must of hit the right case a 1000 times. Since mounting from the left peg I hit it much less often. But I don't really care that much. I bought the bike to ride and it has the miles and blemishes to prove it.
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I mount the bike like a horse from the left peg.
+1... :goodpost:
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+1... :goodpost:
+2 That would be the more correct way. We always mount horses from the left side. Does anyone know why?
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If you sit down to pee you won't splash the toilet, either.
Very true... but getting on the toilet is a lot easier than on a bike, don't you think?
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May be easy for you but I'm not as flexible as I used to be.
That can be a factor. I have more range of motion in my legs than many people do. One of the few benefits of having shorter legs.
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You ballerinas need to work on your flexibility! ;)
I'm only 5'5" and I have no problems lifting my leg high enough to clear the bike's seat and bags. If I have the backrest installed for my wife, that's a different story. :-[
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I bought that same kit but never used it after I saw 'Protects for One Year'. What happens then? Peel it off and re-apply?
I read that it does not come off easily.
I was told by a 3M employee when these launched that it may last a few years or more, but they have not had the product out long enough to test it any longer, hence the one year claim. And he specifically said you gotta wax or it will not come off very nicely.
Got a kit of this sittin in the garage to try on this, just haven't done it yet lol.
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I have two cans of the stuff waiting in my garage for me to try, too, I'm definitely putting about 20 coats on the front lower and lower fairings, don't care if it's streaked, just want to keep the rock chips and tar from screwing the fairings up.
Those of you who are always banging their boots on the saddlebags, you might want to try mounting from the throttle side. since the bike is then leaning downhill away from you, it's actually EASIER to get your leg over (takes a bit to get used to). Most who have been through police motor officer training mount from the right side because 1) it looks cooler and 2) it keeps your firearm clear and accessible)
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3) They are also not mounting from the traffic side.
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+1... :goodpost:
I also mount stepping on left peg first.
Learned to do it this way on my KLR, which has a top case. Now I mount every bike this way, and dismount similarly.
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You ballerinas need to work on your flexibility! ;)
I'm only 5'5" and I have no problems lifting my leg high enough to clear the bike's seat and bags. If I have the backrest installed for my wife, that's a different story. :-[
Can't be done. Never going to be like this:
(http://www.nickholtfitness.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/gymnast-flex.jpg)
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3) They are also not mounting from the traffic side.
BINGO
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+2 That would be the more correct way. We always mount horses from the left side. Does anyone know why?
You are taught to always mount a horse or pony from the "near" side or the animal's left side. The right side of a horse or pony is considered the "off" side. Mounting from the left or near side of the animal has its roots back in war, when horses were ridden by soldiers armed with swords. In order to avoid any potential debilitating incidents before engaging the enemy, riders would mount from the side where the sword would not impede the process. As most people would use a sword with their right hand, the scabbard hung on the left, so the left foot went into the stirrup on mounting.
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So let me get this straight....mounting from the left side is right?
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Can't be done. Never going to be like this:
(http://www.nickholtfitness.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/gymnast-flex.jpg)
Oh my, the possibilities... :P
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So let me get this straight....mounting from the left side is right?
Correct!
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Oh my, the possibilities... :P
:-X
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You are taught to always mount a horse or pony from the "near" side or the animal's left side. The right side of a horse or pony is considered the "off" side. Mounting from the left or near side of the animal has its roots back in war, when horses were ridden by soldiers armed with swords. In order to avoid any potential debilitating incidents before engaging the enemy, riders would mount from the side where the sword would not impede the process. As most people would use a sword with their right hand, the scabbard hung on the left, so the left foot went into the stirrup on mounting.
:chugbeer: We have a winner. That is correct. This was then passed down to bicycles and then motorized bicycles.
Police will mount from either side but the reasoning for Leo's mounting from the throttle side is to be further away from traffic. It is not a good idea to stand on the right foot peg (opposite side from the side stand) as you could bring down on top of you. Same reasoning for mounting from the right side- sometimes we tend to grab the throttle or handle bars and pull ourselves up onto the bike. Again you risk pulling the bike over. The left side is supposed to be the 'more correct' side.
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Can't be done. Never going to be like this:
(http://www.nickholtfitness.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/gymnast-flex.jpg)
Ohhh... I don't know... I could that, maybe... One time.
Make for an unusual casket...
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I step through instead of swinging a leg over. Of course the trunk stays on most days.
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You are taught to always mount a horse or pony from the "near" side or the animal's left side. The right side of a horse or pony is considered the "off" side. Mounting from the left or near side of the animal has its roots back in war, when horses were ridden by soldiers armed with swords. In order to avoid any potential debilitating incidents before engaging the enemy, riders would mount from the side where the sword would not impede the process. As most people would use a sword with their right hand, the scabbard hung on the left, so the left foot went into the stirrup on mounting.
The side stand on my KT250,is on the right side, so I mount it from the right.
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The side stand on my KT250,is on the right side, so I mount it from the right.
I've never seen that before.
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I've never seen that before.
Me neither... I suspect it didn't come from the factory that way...
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Got to protect that paint BEFORE you scuff it up. 3M wrap. If you scuff it up, just peel it off. The stuff polishes up nice. Tank, mirrors, leading edge of fender and top of tank bags.
(http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac262/xsv_photos/IMG_3458.jpg)
(http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac262/xsv_photos/IMG_3452.jpg)
(http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac262/xsv_photos/IMG_3451.jpg~original)
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Sprinkle fairy dust over the seat and your leg will fly over with out touching anything...
Just get on the bike and Shut Up :stirpot:
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http://youtu.be/oYcez9iIZkw (http://youtu.be/oYcez9iIZkw)
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Did you do that yourself or have it done? I couldn't make the wrap lay flat on the contours. I am thinking of putting that wrap on the tank sides, battery cover etc seems easier to make it lay flat.
Got to protect that paint BEFORE you scuff it up. 3M wrap. If you scuff it up, just peel it off. The stuff polishes up nice. Tank, mirrors, leading edge of fender and top of tank bags.
(http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac262/xsv_photos/IMG_3458.jpg)
(http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac262/xsv_photos/IMG_3452.jpg)
(http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac262/xsv_photos/IMG_3451.jpg~original)
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Did you do that yourself or have it done? I couldn't make the wrap lay flat on the contours. I am thinking of putting that wrap on the tank sides, battery cover etc seems easier to make it lay flat.
I had it done. It went on flat everywhere with one exception. He put a really thick film over the headlights. One edge about 1/8 x 1/8 does not want to lay flat.
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Would a heat gun or a blow dryer help soften the film and get around the contours?
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Would a heat gun or a blow dryer help soften the film and get around the contours?
I know in my application the installer only used heat gun on the thick film on the headlights. The application of the other film did not appear difficult. Well right up to the point where he trimmed the film with a razor blade. This guy knew exactly how much pressure to use to cut the film without damaging the paint. That alone was enough to convince me that I would not be doing any install myself.
My recollection was that I paid around $80 for the tank at a business. The installer mentioned if I wanted other things done to get a hold of him. The mirrors, headlight, tank bags, leading edge of fender all took place in is garage...I think I paid $20 or $30 for that, including the film. :)
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Mylar is great, I have it done to all my bodywork sets now, no more rock chips. :thumbs: :thumbs:
On my green set I just did the front facing sections of the lower...
(http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/bb336/jaywilcox/oitoikg_zpsd2f8f402.jpg) (http://s1200.photobucket.com/user/jaywilcox/media/oitoikg_zpsd2f8f402.jpg.html)
(http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/bb336/jaywilcox/yokhkbgfkg_zps2de798a9.jpg) (http://s1200.photobucket.com/user/jaywilcox/media/yokhkbgfkg_zps2de798a9.jpg.html)
(http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/bb336/jaywilcox/kjlkjhggfgf_zpsf434b653.jpg) (http://s1200.photobucket.com/user/jaywilcox/media/kjlkjhggfgf_zpsf434b653.jpg.html)
(http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/bb336/jaywilcox/poiihh_zpsdc15a6fc.jpg) (http://s1200.photobucket.com/user/jaywilcox/media/poiihh_zpsdc15a6fc.jpg.html)
But on my red set I had him do about 85% of the entire bodywork! :) It was very tedious for the installer custom cutting everything as he went, took him 4 days during the middle of the winter so we had to bring in some heavy duty heaters for my garage, and he used an entire roll of film (FYI the mylar rolls cost about $1k :o , and that doesn't include labor to install)
(http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/bb336/jaywilcox/mylarinstall_zpsce47ae11.jpg) (http://s1200.photobucket.com/user/jaywilcox/media/mylarinstall_zpsce47ae11.jpg.html)
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FYI if you paid $1,000. for a roll of mylar film you got ripped off 100%
Your wife needs to take your credit cards and Baker act you :rotflmao:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Florida_Mental_Health_Act (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Florida_Mental_Health_Act)
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FYI if you paid $1,000. for a roll of mylar film you got ripped off 100%
That's a bold statement CD without you even knowing what kind of mylar it is and how big a roll is... ::)
FWIW, no "I" didn't pay $1k.
The mylar I had my red bodywork done in is some brand new stuff that just came on the market, it's actually like a rubber and literally bounces the rocks off and doesn't even leave a nick mark in the mylar, it's pretty cool stuff. Most of the reason for going through an entire roll was how many times he had to pull it back off and re-do it, once pulled off it goes in the trash, so lot's of wasted mylar on this project, our garage garbage can was totally full of waded up balls or mylar. The upper fairing alone he probably had to do about a dozen times before it came out perfect, and I mean perfect, you can't even tell it's on there, no seams! :)
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Me neither... I suspect it didn't come from the factory that way...
Your suspicions would be wrong. That is the way Trials bikes came in the 1970s.
(http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1275/13548833/24249654/409826807.jpg)
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Your suspicions would be wrong. That is the way Trials bikes came in the 1970s.
Too strange... but so were the 70's!
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The good old days!
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The good old days!
How do you know?
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Too strange... but so were the 70's!
The good old days!
How do you know?
He heard a rumor...
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Just buy the precut kit. It takes about an hour to install it yourself.
http://tinyurl.com/nvpsdqo (http://tinyurl.com/nvpsdqo)
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Just buy the precut kit. It takes about an hour to install it yourself.
http://tinyurl.com/nvpsdqo (http://tinyurl.com/nvpsdqo)
Too bad that is only for 29% of the Concourses (gen 1) and they have no option for the other 71%. Most of the pieces would probably still fit... certainly are a lot of pieces.
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I bought a kit.....once. The only parts I could make fit were the ones on the cases and even that was fiddly. Unless you are a professional and install these for a living, I wouldn't ever buy them again. Course you could have much patience and attention span. I have neither. Short fuse as well.
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That's why I went with the spray I couldn't make them fit either (http://i758.photobucket.com/albums/xx230/EarthMama_photos/Smileys/SmileyHammer.gif)
And now that someone else admitted it I can too :)
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Every part fit my bike perfectly. You never want to do the whole bike. Why would you? Just the parts that get stone chips and boot marks and where you contact the bike. That kit covered every leading edge, the tank and the saddle bags.
I do my own cars too but not the WHOLE car. It was easy and simple.
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Every part fit my bike perfectly. You never want to do the whole bike. Why would you? Just the parts that get stone chips and boot marks and where you contact the bike. That kit covered every leading edge, the tank and the saddle bags.
I do my own cars too but not the WHOLE car. It was easy and simple.
:goodpost: +1...
Hence why I did about 85% of mine. :thumbs: :thumbs: :chugbeer:
Mirrors, upper, mids, hotwings, side lowers, front lower, front fender, and side cases for rock chips. Lower sides of tank and front portion of tail sides for your legs, and side cases for your boots. :) 8)
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Every part fit my bike perfectly. You never want to do the whole bike. Why would you? Just the parts that get stone chips and boot marks and where you contact the bike. That kit covered every leading edge, the tank and the saddle bags.
I do my own cars too but not the WHOLE car. It was easy and simple.
You used the kit for the 09 bike and it worked on yours? What year is your bike?
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Had a 74 RL250 and it's stand was on the right. Also ha a TL125, and it's stand was on the left. Yes the 70's were a very confusing time, and not just because of side stand locations...
(https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSfemDDzBYhvI3dxb22WlPFdn-Pw6rUm0-HCb-Rzgb7ADSW7Cf1)
(https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSaHKlFyFKy-xTeiXp5h7PZNxxV3U7wsOIVNWH3_7u9EMpayqI0)