Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => Accessories and modifications - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: reh8388 on May 09, 2014, 11:38:56 AM
-
Hey guys,
I added a USB charging port to the front glovebox the other day and it works great, but it got me thinking about when I take a long trip in a couple weeks... What happens if I need to charge one of my other devices that either won't fit in the glovebox, or I just don't want it in there?
Well I decided I should add a 12V socket to one or both of the saddlebags. The problem is then I have a wire connecting my saddlebag to my bike, and I know me... I would break the wire the first time I removed the bag and forgot the connector was there. So, that meant I had to get power to the saddlebag without adding any steps to the current removal of the saddlebags. (Put key in -> pick up handle -> saddlebag off)
The basic idea is that I will use spring pins to make contact with the saddlebag when it is mounted. The spring pin allows the saddlebags to be removed and reinstalled exactly the same as if the contacts weren't there.
There are basically 3 parts to this project:
1. Power from the bike to a point that will contact the saddlebag.
2. A contact point on the saddlebag that will make contact with part 1 and deliver power to the saddlebag
3. A waterproof (or nearly) method of getting the wires into the saddlebag and to a cleanly mounted 12V socket.
So far I have the concept for part 1 figured out and a prototype done and I am not in the process of figuring out part 2. Unfortunately it is going to rain all weekend so I won't get to ride, but fortunately for this project, that means I should have part 2 figured out soon.
This is what I have come up with so far. I ordered some threaded spring-pins from McMaster and an extra saddlebag bracket from eBay. I mounted the spring-pins last night and am very pleased with the function and I put the pins when I remove and reinstall the saddlebag.
(http://i.imgur.com/7o6FN7k.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/wnxjVPC.jpg)
I will update this thread as I complete more of the project. Hopefully in the next couple of weeks I will be finished up with everything and will start testing it out on the bike to see what sorts of things vibration and rain will do to the system.
-
Now that right there is a fantastic idea!
I had thought of doing something similar using a magnetic mount power tap, such as those used on Apple laptops, the Windows Surface, etc. but eventually I believe they would corrode enough to fail. Your spring loaded idea is much better I think because it will maintain some force between the contacts and continuously wipe away grime.
By the way, this is the same system used on things like some rear entry (easy boys!) doors on SUV's with great success.
Please let us know how this all turns out.
Brian
Hey guys,
<snip>
This is what I have come up with so far. I ordered some threaded spring-pins from McMaster and an extra saddlebag bracket from eBay. I mounted the spring-pins last night and am very pleased with the function and I put the pins when I remove and reinstall the saddlebag.
(http://i.imgur.com/7o6FN7k.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/wnxjVPC.jpg)
I will update this thread as I complete more of the project. Hopefully in the next couple of weeks I will be finished up with everything and will start testing it out on the bike to see what sorts of things vibration and rain will do to the system.
-
Check out the posts of MGValerio on this site... I think he did something similar for speakers in the saddlebags.
If you can get a good translation from Italian, he's got some rather clever ideas posted in these halls.
-
Now that right there is a fantastic idea!
I had thought of doing something similar using a magnetic mount power tap, such as those used on Apple laptops, the Windows Surface, etc. but eventually I believe they would corrode enough to fail. Your spring loaded idea is much better I think because it will maintain some force between the contacts and continuously wipe away grime.
By the way, this is the same system used on things like some rear entry (easy boys!) doors on SUV's with great success.
Please let us know how this all turns out.
Brian
Brian,
Thanks for the compliment. Corrosion is obviously my biggest enemy for all of this. The spring pins are 100% brass and the contacts on the saddlebag will also be brass in an attempt to limit the corrosion. That being said, I will still have to clean them up every year or so.
-
Well, the in automotive use they are not that fussy: my brother did buy a Suburban that the rear door contacts did not work. After using abrasives to clean them and getting them all working, I just spread a smear of axle grease across the entire strip of contacts and they have been working consistently for years (maybe 8 or 9 years?). So given just a touch of grease, I think they will work very reliably for you over the long haul.
The biggest asset is the movement / vibration of the contacts themselves. It makes them sort of self- cleaning. Especially on the saddlebags as they move against the bike slightly- enough to keep them clean but not enough to wear them too quickly I believe. I think this is going to work very well for you because it is a great design; not too delicate like, say, GPS contacts, nor too clunky.
And by the way, it is ideas like this, shared across the collective of all Concours owners, that make these forums great IMO.
Brian
Brian,
Thanks for the compliment. Corrosion is obviously my biggest enemy for all of this. The spring pins are 100% brass and the contacts on the saddlebag will also be brass in an attempt to limit the corrosion. That being said, I will still have to clean them up every year or so.
-
Check out the posts of MGValerio on this site... I think he did something similar for speakers in the saddlebags.
If you can get a good translation from Italian, he's got some rather clever ideas posted in these halls.
I skimmed through his posts but only saw pictures of the speakers in one post and that was in regards to a saddlebag retention system he had added. Maybe he will stop by this thread and share what he did.
-
:popcorn:
Interesting, very interesting.......
-
http://www.amazon.com/Upgrade-9000mAh-External-Technology-Smartphones/dp/B00DMWV3EU/ref=sr_1_20?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1399734398&sr=1-20 (http://www.amazon.com/Upgrade-9000mAh-External-Technology-Smartphones/dp/B00DMWV3EU/ref=sr_1_20?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1399734398&sr=1-20)
something like this ?? they have lots of other ones as well. this has two ports.
not as slick as the direction of the op
-
I have 12 volts in each bag and trunk type contatto.Io I can make video clips, write not understand due to translation.
A contatto nel bauletto.
http://youtu.be/PWHQDCHullM (http://youtu.be/PWHQDCHullM)
2 contatti luci interne,2 contatti x STOP al baueletto aggiuntivo.2 contacts interior lights, 2 x STOP to contact additional trunk.
(http://i59.tinypic.com/2s1loyd.jpg)
2 birds with one stone.
http://youtu.be/FwUvPgYEWK4 (http://youtu.be/FwUvPgYEWK4)
Easiest way to get 12 volts on the stock exchanges of the contact type.
(http://i59.tinypic.com/4ue3wp.jpg)
Other types contact still work after 6 years.
http://youtu.be/k2m_8pyfBhA (http://youtu.be/k2m_8pyfBhA)
OFF TOPIC
http://youtu.be/92lwHUx6UQI (http://youtu.be/92lwHUx6UQI)
MGvalerio ;)
-
2 contacts interior lights, 2 x STOP to contact additional trunk.
Easiest way to get 12 volts on the stock exchanges of the contact type.
MGvalerio, I would love to see a tutorial on how you did all that.
-
Keep thinking/tinkering guys your almost there... Looking forward to testing finished results.
-
..... I ordered some threaded spring-pins from McMaster and an extra saddlebag bracket from eBay. I mounted the spring-pins last night and am very pleased with the function and I put the pins when I remove and reinstall the saddlebag.
(http://i.imgur.com/7o6FN7k.jpg)
......
Won't you also need some kind of cut-off in-line to prevent the pins from being powered if/when the bags aren't in place? (This might not be a big issue if you never ride with the bags off...) It's only 12v, so safety isn't an issue, but you'd be blowing fuses if it got shorted by weather or accidental contact with any sort of conductor...
Some sort of reed switch, or Hall effect sensor, with a magnet mounted on/in the saddlebag might work... Then, when the bag wasn't mounted, the pins wouldn't be powered... Not sure where you'd mount it though - maybe at the bottom, behind the passenger pegs?
Just thinking out loud - I like this, and am watching with interest...
Jamie
-
Won't you also need some kind of cut-off in-line to prevent the pins from being powered if/when the bags aren't in place? (This might not be a big issue if you never ride with the bags off...) It's only 12v, so safety isn't an issue, but you'd be blowing fuses if it got shorted by weather or accidental contact with any sort of conductor...
Some sort of reed switch, or Hall effect sensor, with a magnet mounted on/in the saddlebag might work... Then, when the bag wasn't mounted, the pins wouldn't be powered... Not sure where you'd mount it though - maybe at the bottom, behind the passenger pegs?
Just thinking out loud - I like this, and am watching with interest...
Jamie
Hey Jamie,
You have a very good point about blowing a fuse if I were to have a something conductive connect the two terminals. I think the addition of a reed switch is a great idea especially if this were to be a more commercially available system (liability and all that).
For my own bike I am not worried about running these on all the time simply because of their location. Being inside the bracket the way they are it would be very difficult to accidentally get something to contact both pins. Definitely possible, but very unlikely.
As far as weather shorting the pins, water, especially rain water (not salt water) is actually a pretty bad conductor in low voltage/low current situations such as this setup. Also, the location of the pins plays into my favor. Since they are mounted into a surface that is almost completely vertical with nothing to catch and hold the water against the pins. And since I don't plan on driving my motorcycle into the ocean any time soon I should be good to go.
But who knows, you might see me talk about adding a cut-off switch in the future, and if I do I will be sure to give you credit.
-
Just thinking out loud - I like this, and am watching with interest...
Jamie
[/quote]
.
http://youtu.be/RzGBi2sfRwE (http://youtu.be/RzGBi2sfRwE)
MGvalerio.
-
I knew you'd chime in at some point! ;D
-
great thread (http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/bigthumb.gif)
-
Hey, it looks like you really..... wait for it..... nailed that one!
Brian
.
http://youtu.be/RzGBi2sfRwE (http://youtu.be/RzGBi2sfRwE)
MGvalerio.
-
Hey, it looks like you really..... wait for it..... nailed that one!
Brian
http://youtu.be/mBEz4Jx9jJI (http://youtu.be/mBEz4Jx9jJI)
MGvalerio.
-
Just thinking out loud - I like this, and am watching with interest...
Jamie
.
http://youtu.be/RzGBi2sfRwE (http://youtu.be/RzGBi2sfRwE)
MGvalerio.
Im going to be doing something similar soon by putting an LED light into my pelican case trunk. That never comes off tho so it will be hard-wired in. Also putting some other charging equipment in there as well to charge my camera equipment and phone etc.
For the good of the order, look up "Anderson Power Poles". Theyre pretty popular in robotics, and ham radio, and Im really surprised they haven't taken on more in the automotive world for their simplicity and reliability.
-
Im going to be doing something similar soon by putting an LED light into my pelican case trunk. That never comes off tho so it will be hard-wired in. Also putting some other charging equipment in there as well to charge my camera equipment and phone etc.
For the good of the order, look up "Anderson Power Poles". Theyre pretty popular in robotics, and ham radio, and Im really surprised they haven't taken on more in the automotive world for their simplicity and reliability.
Anderson power poles are popular where you need to deliver high current... and no other signals. The large connectors of their SB series are used in a lot of industries but they are for power connections only. The individual power poles that you can assemble into basically as many poles as you want or need aren't used in industry because they are very labor intensive to put together on a production scale and the physical size of the connector is very large compared to other connectors that are rated for the same current. Also without getting into the debate of sealed vs unsealed, the fact is ultimately most manufactures use sealed connectors and the power poles are not a sealed connector.
For projects and hobbyists they are a great connector since they are configurable if you need to change something. I personally prefer to use more compact connectors because on my bike I wont be pulling more than 5 amps (worst case) through any connection I add.
-
For projects and hobbyists they are a great connector since they are configurable if you need to change something. I personally prefer to use more compact connectors because on my bike I wont be pulling more than 5 amps (worst case) through any connection I add.
I wouldn't go so far as to say that, they ARE an industrial connector, therefore the exotic tooling needed for creating harness' using them, and the quantity you must purchase, put them completely out of the realm for "one off" projects...
Nice connectors though, I have used them in my corporate designs a few times.
after looking a bit more...updated to show;
these actually are nice, in the 15A size...
http://www.powerwerx.com/anderson-powerpoles/powerpole-sets/30-amp-red-black-anderson-powerpole-sets.html (http://www.powerwerx.com/anderson-powerpoles/powerpole-sets/30-amp-red-black-anderson-powerpole-sets.html)
-
Part 2 of this project is one of those things that can be done 100's of ways, but finding a way that is simple yet effective is proving a challenge. I am working on a couple ideas for it still but I have also started looking into a 12V socket for inside the bags as well as a decent way to cover the wire once it enters the saddlebag. This is the socket I wound up finding and I will most likely epoxy this into the saddlebag so I don't have to sink a screw through the case.
(http://i.imgur.com/YeTBpfw.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/HDij4Fi.jpg)
-
Could you tell us where you got it?
-
Could you tell us where you got it?
Jim - Let me get this one in and make sure it isn't garbage and then I will post a link. No sense in people wasting money if I get this in and it is poor quality.
-
Fair enough.
-
...For the good of the order, look up "Anderson Power Poles". Theyre pretty popular in robotics, and ham radio, and Im really surprised they haven't taken on more in the automotive world for their simplicity and reliability...
Yeah, any type of plug would certainly be easier to set up, but kinda ignores the intent of the op :
...I had to get power to the saddlebag without adding any steps to the current removal of the saddlebags. (Put key in -> pick up handle -> saddlebag off)...
MGvalerio's electric pin solution is pretty ingenious, and if you're going to be pinning your bags onto the bike anyway, it's certainly a good solution.
I'm still, however, leaning towards the spring pin solution on the bag hangers... hidden and totally hands-free - just drop the bags on and you're in business...
If you're thinking of epoxying in an interior socket, consider a dual plug - the number of things needing charging always seems to be multiplying... or maybe even :
(http://www.rvtek.com.au/ebay/BAINTECH_surface_4e9bb34b124ee.png)
Jamie
-
Having an electrified tank bag, I can't imagine what I would need to put in the saddle bags to be charged. Maybe a spare C14 battery? However, I'm still watching with interest as it seems that if 2 spring pin contacts can be placed in one hook area then perhaps a third could be added at the other hook? Three wires to each case would allow running light-brake light-turn signal to be mounted on the rear of the bags. For those so inclined, a fourth wire would allow either an amber turn signal, or (always on power w/very low amp fuse) a saddle bag interior switched low profile LED light strip. As it is with only two pins, it still would allow for a great brake light set up. I'm not convinced that extra rear running lights add much to safety, however extra brake lights and turn signals are a big plus IMO. I think I'd go for the extra brake lights and amber turn signals if a third wire could be added at the other bag hook.
So yes, this is an interesting thread even for those that aren't charging stuff in the saddle bags. :thumbs:
-
Having an electrified tank bag, I can't imagine what I would need to put in the saddle bags to be charged. Maybe a spare C14 battery? ...
:finger_fing11: :rotflmao:
-
Having an electrified tank bag, I can't imagine what I would need to put in the saddle bags to be charged...
Having electrified saddlebags, and easily running power from the front plug to my phone and/or GPS if necessary, I can't imagine what I'd need a tank bag for.... ;D
(just funnin really, I've been looking at those tank bags too...)
And I like the idea of extra contacts for brakes and blinkers... hmmmm.....
Jamie
-
I wouldn't go so far as to say that, they ARE an industrial connector, therefore the exotic tooling needed for creating harness' using them, and the quantity you must purchase, put them completely out of the realm for "one off" projects...
Nice connectors though, I have used them in my corporate designs a few times.
after looking a bit more...updated to show;
these actually are nice, in the 15A size...
http://www.powerwerx.com/anderson-powerpoles/powerpole-sets/30-amp-red-black-anderson-powerpole-sets.html (http://www.powerwerx.com/anderson-powerpoles/powerpole-sets/30-amp-red-black-anderson-powerpole-sets.html)
I use the 15A, 30A, and 45A ones religiously. (Based on the size of wire im using. All of the actual connectors are the same size). I cant count the number of times I've had one wire hooked up somewhere, then been finished with it (or needed it somewhere else) and used it on another application. The connectors are small enough I can easily feed them throughout any space almost. I did buy their special crimper tool after a while to make the assembly easier, but for a couple years just used needle nose pliers.
Theyre not for every appliation (IE: something that could get submerged or really wet) but for anything I want to be easily disconnectable in the future, and have a secure insulated connection, these are what i use. If im worried about the connection coming apart, I ziptie it together with small ties.
I know this isnt what the OP was looking to do, but they are fantastic products. (Despite the high price...). MGs post brought it to my head. They work fantastic for me. Maybe not for everyone, my .02.
-
Ok guys, I have been working a second project that I actually started before this one but had been waiting for parts for it so I started this project. I am waiting until that project is done to post about it but that's why this one hasn't gotten all my attention.
Anyways, I have an idea for the saddlebag side of the system. I have to just make it/order the parts to make it. Hopefully in the next couple weeks I will have everything in. That looks like it is the only part left to figure out.
I received the 12V socket that I ordered and I am really pleased with it. Total cost was ~$18 and I ordered it from ebay here (http://www.ebay.com/itm/180873253866?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649) from a seller named dcjoules (in case the link dies you can search for him). It shipped quickly and it is made in Australia. Feels pretty solid and should work well for the saddlebag.
Last night I played around with positioning inside the saddlebag to allow me to still put a full-face helmet in the saddlebag. Here is the position I will probably go with (it is just taped in place for fitment testing). This position is directly over top of where the wires will come through the back of the saddlebag meaning there won't be any wires visible inside the bag.
(http://i.imgur.com/YikhN1i.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/H7li8JA.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/8GaFdmE.jpg)
-
Sorry for the delay, but it's done! (well mostly). I finally got the parts in and finished all my traveling for work so I had some time to finish this up and I am happy to report that it works like a dream. I have not mounted the socket inside the saddlebag yet, but the wires are there and I just need to epoxy the socket in place. I am going to test this out for a week or two before glueing anything into place.
First, here are a few pictures of the spring pins on the bike. They are very unnoticeable when the bag is off, and are not visible at all when the bag is on (picture of that later).
(http://i.imgur.com/ALAddVq.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/Z3kW2HO.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/54vvbCa.jpg)
The next part was how to get the power contacts mounted to the saddlebag. I had a very small circuit board made up. It is literally just two big contact pads on the front that are connected to two big contact pads on the back. I used a dremel to inlay the board on the saddlebag and drilled a hold to bring the wires (soldered to the back of the board) up and then through a hole in the saddle bag.
Saddlebag back from a distance.
(http://i.imgur.com/L9zPauz.jpg)
Close up of circuit board mounted.
(http://i.imgur.com/rhM10A1.jpg)
Profile view of circuit board mounting (the board isn't glued in place yet so there is an ever so small gap)
(http://i.imgur.com/1XyXUxC.jpg)
Wire routing into bag.
(http://i.imgur.com/JTDZlEj.jpg)
The only evidence there is power going into the saddlebags when it is mounted is if you look though the grab rail you see this...
(http://i.imgur.com/Jk7dH6r.jpg)
And lastly, here is a short video (http://www.youtube.com/embed/a4EDMlQCHIs?rel=0) showing that the power is switched on with the key and then you can see my remove the bag and then reinstall it (hard to do one handed and looking through a phone screen).
-
I am impressed!
-
Very trick!
What does the red stand do for you? Zero turns? Anything else?
-
Very trick!
What does the red stand do for you? Zero turns? Anything else?
The red stand simply let's met move the bike around in the garage and tuck it against the wall if I need the work space. It is sold at Harbor Freight for something like $80. I got mine from a buddy who didn't use it anymore. It's a must have if you have a small garage like I do.
-
The red stand simply let's met move the bike around in the garage and tuck it against the wall if I need the work space. It is sold at Harbor Freight for something like $80. I got mine from a buddy who didn't use it anymore. It's a must have if you have a small garage like I do.
Interesting, thanks.