Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => Accessories and modifications - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: gorinaboubou on February 16, 2014, 12:58:14 AM
-
what is the best rotors oem or aftermarket after tow set on warranty and set of galfer still have pulsation what is the best ????? 2008 abs
-
EBCs.
-
EBCs.
:goodpost: :thumbs:
-
I think the "best" directly relates to how much you want to spend. Do you need low dollar, or $$$$.
The rotors here are amazing, and priced as such. http://www.solomotoparts.com/Brake-Tech-Axis-310mm-Iron-Full-Floating-Front-Brake-Rotors-for-ZX14-Ninja-06-12/?gclid=CJvGqZGD0bwCFepFMgodJWEAQg (http://www.solomotoparts.com/Brake-Tech-Axis-310mm-Iron-Full-Floating-Front-Brake-Rotors-for-ZX14-Ninja-06-12/?gclid=CJvGqZGD0bwCFepFMgodJWEAQg)
EBC, as mentioned, are probably better than we get in stock form. On this particular caliper, I'm not convinced we have a "rotor issue" WHAT??? Huh?
I took my calipers down at 8000 miles. They were filthy inside. TONS of brake dust. The sliding pins were gummed up. Thats not too many miles, compared to what most here do. I think the dirty caliper causes the pads to not fully retract. That little bit of extra drag creates big heat, causing the pad deposits or warping. Plus, I think our stock 08 pads are aggressive and may run hotter than the later pads.
It is the internet, so I reserve the right to be full of ****.
-
I agree that the rotor issue is not a "warp" but I will give Galfer the nod for replacement rotor.
-
After having both of mine changed after 2500 because they were warped I have taken to rotating my bobbins every week, I have a nut and bolt whose heads fit the bobbin and I simply tighten them up and they grip and rotate while giving it a blast of disk cleaner, which I also fire into the caliper as well.
Once a month I pop the pads out and clean them.
So far my brakes and disks are awesome, no warping and stopping is great, and very little wear now the bike has done some 14k miles.
Alan
-
I've put 12,000 miles on in two years and my rotors look new, I don't do anything to them and normally only use my front brake and then only my center finger on the brake , yeah that one ;)
EBC rotors are the best value.
-
After having both of mine changed after 2500 because they were warped I have taken to rotating my bobbins every week, I have a but and bolt whose heads fit the bobbin and I simply tighten them up and they grip and rotate while giving it a blast of disk cleaner, which I also fire into the caliper as well.
Once a month I pop the pads out and clean them.
So far my brakes and disks are awesome, no warping and stopping is great, and very little wear now the bike has done some 14k miles.
Alan
We obviously speak different dialects of the same language. Please tell me and perhaps others just what a "bobbin" is. Also, "I have a but and bolt whose heads fit the bobbin" is indecipherable to me. Can you possible explain the meaning of this in a way that an American can know what you're talking about?
-
We obviously speak different dialects of the same language. Please tell me and perhaps others just what a "bobbin" is. Also, "I have a but and bolt whose heads fit the bobbin" is indecipherable to me. Can you possible explain the meaning of this in a way that an American can know what you're talking about?
I edited it, ok a bobbin this side of the pond is the round bit between the disk carrier bolted to the wheel and the actual disk itself, they have to rotate to give you the floating disk which it is.
The other was nut and bolt, I simply put one in the bobbin and tighten it up and like magic it turns the bobbin for me while I spray it with disk cleaner.
Alan
-
I edited it, ok a bobbin this side of the pond is the round bit between the disk carrier bolted to the wheel and the actual disk itself, they have to rotate to give you the floating disk which it is.
The other was nut and bolt, I simply put one in the bobbin and tighten it up and like magic it turns the bobbin for me while I spray it with disk cleaner.
Alan
Thank you Alan. As for the question asked by the originator of this thread, I have no idea who offers the best rotors for the C14 as I have found the brakes on my own C14 to be far superior to any on other bikes I've either owned or ridden. I have experienced no brake related issues of any kind. When my stock pads wore thin I replaced them with Galfer ceramic pads.
-
EBCs.
+1 on EBC. My OEM rotors were warped within 12K (and no I do not ride the brakes). No issues with EBC in the last 15K.
Ride safe... 8)
Dave
-
I used my OEMs up somewhere around 24ishk miles, never warped. Track days twice a year and a daily I5 commute ate them up (ask BDF how bad they were). I went to the EBCs and it made a real world difference. 32,000 miles of the same type of use and the EBC rotors still looked fresh. Of all the pads I tried/wore out the EBC pads worked the best and gave the best feed back Think 150s hard on the binders into turn one. Stock rotors and Corbonne Loraines faded bad at 130s, and had a long break in period where they just felt wooden and rain did them no favors. Galfer pads felt tinny at the lever, I didn't run them to death. If/when I have another C14 my priorities will be easy, swat the flies when I install the ZX14TBs, full AreaP exhaust, PCV, tune, and EBC rotors and pads. And of course my fav set of tires with a 55 profile tire out back.
-
EBCs.
Definately!! Had 2 sets of OEM's replaced because of warping, swapped over to EBC's and never looked back!! :)
-
thank you for our comments but wich model of ebc i need
-
thank you for our comments but wich model of ebc i need
I currently have these...
http://ebcbrakes.com/product/floating-mc-rotors/
But might try out these to have green hubs... :-\
http://ebcbrakes.com/product/colour-options-for-vee-rotors/
-
EBC, as mentioned, are probably better than we get in stock form.
It is the internet, so I reserve the right to be full of ****.
OK sir, since you you posted the disclaimer I won't call you out on "probably better" (http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/icon10.gif)
-
Do you order the EBC directly from them or is there an online provider you went through? My front rotors are pulsating now and will need to buy both front and rear.
-
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/ (http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/) vee-rotors + hh pads works very good
-
Excellent, thanks for posting that.
-
well, add me to the list of in need of rotors,
Ebc, what model are people having good luck with, the vee-rotors or something else
also any feedback on the "imported rotors" all over ebay, some seem to have great results with them.
the other option is galfor, but spendy with the rotors and pads too.
thanks guys
-
well, add me to the list of in need of rotors,
Ebc, what model are people having good luck with, the vee-rotors or something else
also any feedback on the "imported rotors" all over ebay, some seem to have great results with them.
the other option is galfor, but spendy with the rotors and pads too.
thanks guys
the ebay rotors I've seen arent even full floaters. when it comes to stopping, I'll spend the extra dime on EBC rotors and matching double-H EBC pads (http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/bigthumb.gif)
-
Murph has scary good delivery time for ANY motorcycle parts he carries. And pretty good prices too. I got the full set of EBC rotors and pads from him. Ordered on a Thursday late evening, Tuesday they were at my front door. Now I'm waiting on the dealer to deliver my new bolts and I'll get a ride report on the EBC.
www.murphskits.com (http://www.murphskits.com)
-
46,000 on my 2010 and the original rotors are fine. Wondering why so many are replacing.
-
Rhino, IIRC they've changed something since the first couple of years, possibly only the pads? I had bad chatter/pulsing when braking hard. Might a good cleaning have solved my problem? Possible. Starting fresh with EBC didn't break the bank for me, plus I get to do a thorough cleaning and I get to ensure all my bolts are torqued to spec. None of my caliper, pinch bolt, or rotor bolts were right. I think 25 ft-lbs is the highest value for any of those bolts, and my bike had them set to 'oh my god I'm gonna blow hemorrhoids out my arse getting them loose'. Tight might be good, but over-tight can be bad.
-
I have to admit that most of my miles are long range touring. So I'm probably using way less brakes per mile then most.
-
the ebay rotors I've seen arent even full floaters. when it comes to stopping, I'll spend the extra dime on EBC rotors and matching double-H EBC pads (http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/bigthumb.gif)
Steve, how much of an improvement would I feel with those? both in terms of stopping power (which the stockers have) and fade resistance...
-
I thought that my stockers were wonderful compared to the C10 I previously owned...until they warped...twice.
-
After several sets of OEMs under warranty I bought Brembo's.
Everyone has their own opinion, but I'd buy Brembo over EBC or Galfer.
I got mine through PJ's parts online, they were fantastic to deal with.
-
The rotors or PJ's? ;)
-
ebc has several models, not sure what people are using, any help here??
thanks
-
ebc has several models, not sure what people are using, any help here??
thanks
Looks like Vee rotors with HH pads is what people are recommending.
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/ (http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/) vee-rotors + hh pads works very good
-
What people would they be? Never heard of Vee rotors.
-
What people would they be? Never heard of Vee rotors.
it's a model of rotors made by your folks at EBC, Jim. I'm very tempted to buy the ones with the green hub 8)
-
it's a model of rotors made by your folks at EBC, Jim. I'm very tempted to buy the ones with the green hub 8)
I'm currently running the Vee rotors and really like them. :thumbs: :thumbs:
-
Mine are XCs...I think. Vee must be something new in the last several years or so.
-
Mine are XCs...I think. Vee must be something new in the last several years or so.
I've had the X series EBC's before as well Sparky, and liked those too.
The Vee series are their newer ones, what I also like about them is you can get them with different colored carriers, here's a link...
http://ebcbrakes.com/product/colour-options-for-vee-rotors/ (http://ebcbrakes.com/product/colour-options-for-vee-rotors/)
-
Dammit NO hot pink with purple polkadots :o
-
Gpink gets hot occasionally but I don't think he has polka dots.
-
Heat index in the shop today will probably push 110.
-
My 2011 is the worse bike I've had yet, because of the front rotor issues. It currently has under 15,000 miles. It has had rotors changed out 3 times. The last time was at 13,200 miles and it is sitting in the garage with warped rotors again 1500 miles later. Every set of rotors started the pulsating at about the same 1200 mile mark. Continues to worsen as you ride it. It goes back in to see the Kawasaki Service Tech from New England on July 7-9 for the second time.
My 2010 is the bike I am riding when this isn't sitting. The rotors on this bike were changed at 38,000 miles due to warping. The 2010 feels way better than the 2011 and always has.
There is a serious brake issue with these bikes. Hopefully Kawasaki will be putting a different brand of brakes on these soon. Or they'll lose customers.
-
My 2011 is the worse bike I've had yet, because of the front rotor issues. It currently has under 15,000 miles. It has had rotors changed out 3 times. The last time was at 13,200 miles and it is sitting in the garage with warped rotors again 1500 miles later. Every set of rotors started the pulsating at about the same 1200 mile mark. Continues to worsen as you ride it. It goes back in to see the Kawasaki Service Tech from New England on July 7-9 for the second time.
My 2010 is the bike I am riding when this isn't sitting. The rotors on this bike were changed at 38,000 miles due to warping. The 2010 feels way better than the 2011 and always has.
There is a serious brake issue with these bikes. Hopefully Kawasaki will be putting a different brand of brakes on these soon. Or they'll lose customers.
so you have a 2010 and 2011 c14?? 1200 miles to pulse, anything hanging up?? or that's the way it is ??
my 09 with 70k warped the oe rotors, also below spec. watching closely for replacement options, aftermarket might be an option
the bike is still under warrenty, but rotors are below spec, might be an easy denial of coverage. also not sure i want the issues others have been having.
did kawi update the rotor design ??
oe galfer ebc brembo, so many options. ???
-
It is a long story, but I bought a new 2011 after I had my 2010 for two years. My insurance has better coverage for the first 2 years of ownership. I had my 2010 on consignment until I had issues with my 2011.
I believe there was a rotor change in 2011. Not a change for the better. Both of my bikes are under warranty or extended warranty. Nothing seems to be hanging up. I just keep bringing it in for service. It has been a horrible bike.
I also had a 2008 and totaled it with 44,000 miles on it. Had one rotor replaced at 15,000 miles.
-
Interesting. The rotor carriers were changed mid- year in 2011 I think and it seems that the incidence of rotor warping has declined or at least it appears to the be the case based on the number of complaints (that is not data, only my perception). That said, when I was at the COG national rally, a few of us got into that discussion and we looked around at a bunch of C-14's of various years: there was clearly a change in the later rotor carriers but it seems that the late carriers were actually lighter than the early ones! At least the notches stamped out of the carriers is larger, meaning there is less area of rotor carrier on the later models. Of course they may be thicker and so overall be heavier but that is not how they appear. ??
At any rate, I have an '08 with stock rotors: the first set warped at 57K miles and was replaced, front and rear. The rear again warped soon after, and was also replaced under warranty but I found the caliper had one piston stuck (not quite frozen but stiff (easy boys!)). The front rotors are still smooth approaching 100K miles, and the second replacement rear rotor has been fine also.
I will ask my local dealer about the incidence of rotors warping on later C-14's next time I stop by.
Brian
My 2011 is the worse bike I've had yet, because of the front rotor issues. It currently has under 15,000 miles. It has had rotors changed out 3 times. The last time was at 13,200 miles and it is sitting in the garage with warped rotors again 1500 miles later. Every set of rotors started the pulsating at about the same 1200 mile mark. Continues to worsen as you ride it. It goes back in to see the Kawasaki Service Tech from New England on July 7-9 for the second time.
My 2010 is the bike I am riding when this isn't sitting. The rotors on this bike were changed at 38,000 miles due to warping. The 2010 feels way better than the 2011 and always has.
There is a serious brake issue with these bikes. Hopefully Kawasaki will be putting a different brand of brakes on these soon. Or they'll lose customers.
-
Two questions:
1)How can I figure out if I need new calipers?
2) My rear brakes don't pulsate like the front but is it better to replace both front and back? Worse case maybe order new rear pads?
-
Not sure who you are asking but my answer is free.... :-)
You should never need new calipers. Calipers are rebuild-able with new seals and O-rings and unless physically damaged or extremely badly corroded, should last forever.
There is no connection between the front and rear brakes on any motorcycle (talking about relational connections here, not being linked or sharing hydraulics) so one end needing service / repair has absolutely no bearing on the other end. In other words, treat them as totally separate entities, just as you would headlights and taillights.
Brian
Two questions:
1)How can I figure out if I need new calipers?
2) My rear brakes don't pulsate like the front but is it better to replace both front and back? Worse case maybe order new rear pads?
-
Thanks Brian. The rears seem to work fine, worse case new pads because I've been using them more with the rotors on the front being shot. I miss Razees though, and I'm not impressed with the dealers here in Alabama but did find an independent who will do them.
I'm also sticker shocked with the cost of the EBC parts though!! $551 for rotors and pads through motorcycle superstore!!! :o
First time buying brakes so maybe it's normal.
-
Thanks Brian. The rears seem to work fine, worse case new pads because I've been using them more with the rotors on the front being shot. I miss Razees though, and I'm not impressed with the dealers here in Alabama but did find an independent who will do them.
I'm also sticker shocked with the cost of the EBC parts though!! $551 for rotors and pads through motorcycle superstore!!! :o
First time buying brakes so maybe it's normal.
Lucky your not buying for a BMW 1600 $$
-
Yeah, big motorcycle brake components are expensive and the C-14 is right in line with that- or maybe even a bit on the high side.
That said, there are alternatives. There are the Chinese 'no name' rotors being hawked on Ebay; I have no direct knowledge but I have always suspected they are really coming off a production line for a major company and simply being sold directly to us. Put another way, they are 'Brand X' but not sold THROUGH the 'Brand X' network.
New Old Stock is also a possibility- look for NOS or 'New take- offs' on Ebay and similar. I grabbed a set of front forks for a ZX 14 complete and new for $369 delivered. There was a wheel, rotors and other parts on the front end I bought so they should also have been for sale at some point.
Best of luck with this.
Brian
Thanks Brian. The rears seem to work fine, worse case new pads because I've been using them more with the rotors on the front being shot. I miss Razees though, and I'm not impressed with the dealers here in Alabama but did find an independent who will do them.
I'm also sticker shocked with the cost of the EBC parts though!! $551 for rotors and pads through motorcycle superstore!!! :o
First time buying brakes so maybe it's normal.
-
Aside from those rotors coming from China, I haven't heard anything bad about them that I remember.
-
I'm also sticker shocked with the cost of the EBC parts though!! $551 for rotors and pads through motorcycle superstore!!! :o
Murph can save you maybe $40.00 for the full front EBC set up. And no one ships faster. I just finished changing mine this afternoon.
www.murphskits.com (http://www.murphskits.com)
-
Interesting. The rotor carriers were changed mid- year in 2011 I think and it seems that the incidence of rotor warping has declined or at least it appears to the be the case based on the number of complaints (that is not data, only my perception). That said, when I was at the COG national rally, a few of us got into that discussion and we looked around at a bunch of C-14's of various years: there was clearly a change in the later rotor carriers but it seems that the late carriers were actually lighter than the early ones! At least the notches stamped out of the carriers is larger, meaning there is less area of rotor carrier on the later models. Of course they may be thicker and so overall be heavier but that is not how they appear. ??
At any rate, I have an '08 with stock rotors: the first set warped at 57K miles and was replaced, front and rear. The rear again warped soon after, and was also replaced under warranty but I found the caliper had one piston stuck (not quite frozen but stiff (easy boys!)). The front rotors are still smooth approaching 100K miles, and the second replacement rear rotor has been fine also.
I will ask my local dealer about the incidence of rotors warping on later C-14's next time I stop by.
Brian
Thanks Brian. Some good info right there. I really think that there is something bigger than just brakes wrong with the 2011. I am not a Tech, so I can only guess. Like you I put a lot of miles on these bikes and am trying not to switch to a different brand. But this 2011 has really sucked out my patience, I'll have more info after July 10th or so.
-
Anyone used the EBC pro pads? http://www.motorcycle-superstore.co.uk/30961/i/ebc-extreme-pro-front-brake-pad (http://www.motorcycle-superstore.co.uk/30961/i/ebc-extreme-pro-front-brake-pad)
I'll be changing my rotors soon and plan on going with EBC as well
-
Murph can save you maybe $40.00 for the full front EBC set up. And no one ships faster. I just finished changing mine this afternoon.
www.murphskits.com (http://www.murphskits.com)
It's just weird that I can buy 4 rotors for my Z-06 Corvette for less than the cost of two rotors for my motorcycle! And let me tell you, that Corvette tax aint cheap to begin with. I guess all that fancy milling, taking the metal out of bike rotors makes them expensive. They're probably 1/10 the mass of car rotors. If there was any less metal in them, nobody could afford them, LOL!
-
I paid $174.50 each for my EBC XC rotors from Amazon
EBC Brakes MD4155XC Brake Rotor
Sold by: Amazon.com LLC
My OEM rotors lasted 122,000 miles before they began pulsating. But at that point they were worn to 3.5 mm, a full mm less than the service limit.
-
Anyone used the EBC pro pads? http://www.motorcycle-superstore.co.uk/30961/i/ebc-extreme-pro-front-brake-pad (http://www.motorcycle-superstore.co.uk/30961/i/ebc-extreme-pro-front-brake-pad)
I'll be changing my rotors soon and plan on going with EBC as well
No first hand knowledge on these pads, but most race pads require big heat to be effective, routine street use may be less than desirable. If you use the bike for weekend canyon carving and no commuter miles these may be great. I found the EBC HHs to be great on road and the track.
-
The rotors or PJ's? ;)
PJ's
Well both I guess; if one deals w rotors....
I guess do, I had dealt with the OEM's long enough!
-
Thanks Brian. Some good info right there. I really think that there is something bigger than just brakes wrong with the 2011. I am not a Tech, so I can only guess. Like you I put a lot of miles on these bikes and am trying not to switch to a different brand. But this 2011 has really sucked out my patience, I'll have more info after July 10th or so.
I warped a set of the updated ones, got a second set which were later tested as in spec. Those are on a shelf now too. Worthwhile if Kawi is flipping the bill otherwise; Brembo.
Or EBC if that's your preference; just not OEM.
-
....I'm also sticker shocked with the cost of the EBC parts though!! $551 for rotors and pads through motorcycle superstore!!! :o ...
Murph can save you maybe $40.00 for the full front EBC set up. And no one ships faster. I just finished changing mine this afternoon.
www.murphskits.com (http://www.murphskits.com)
I paid $174.50 each for my EBC XC rotors from Amazon
EBC Brakes MD4155XC Brake Rotor
Sold by: Amazon.com LLC
amazon prime, sold by amazon, backed by ebc. $422.96 free 2 day shipping, 2 rotors, 2 pad sets!!
went with the xc rotors over the vee per the ebc tech guys recommendation over the phone. also the ebc hh pads (last 2 sets have been oe 10+)
-
:thumbs:
-
My 2011 has gone through hell in 15,000 miles.
New rotors at 5000+ miles. And rear brake issues.
New rotors at 7500+ miles.
New rotors at 13,000+miles.
New front rim, bearings, EBC rotors and pads 14,800 miles.
-
Hi All,
I have a question on the rotors - EBC and Brembo. Can i know what the difference is between both?
AS you know the price is quite big is near 2 times. It is of course there have a cheap rotors - RCP.
I am going to replace front rotors in recent weeks. Is anyone there help me?
The price: Brembo USD: 650
EBC USD:350
ECP USD:150
Best regards,
-
I have a question on the rotors - EBC and Brembo. Can i know what the difference is between both?
Aside from price and brand name, there isn't much info. Lots of people seem to be happy with EBC, saying they are better than OEM. (I suspect the Brembos are not much better than EBC)
From search, see also: http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=16676 (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=16676)
-
My 2011 has gone through hell in 15,000 miles.
New rotors at 5000+ miles. And rear brake issues.
New rotors at 7500+ miles.
New rotors at 13,000+miles.
New front rim, bearings, EBC rotors and pads 14,800 miles.
Are you braking hard for mooses?
-
Are you braking hard for mooses?
Fair question. That 2011 wasn't the best C-14 I ever owned. I got rid of it. And they are called moose. lol
-
Aside from price and brand name, there isn't much info. Lots of people seem to be happy with EBC, saying they are better than OEM. (I suspect the Brembos are not much better than EBC)
From search, see also: http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=16676 (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=16676)
Maxtog,
I read previous posts seems the EBC is the best. Thanks for reply.
-
seems the EBC is the best. Thanks for reply.
If you get them, make sure to post your feedback here so others can benefit from your experience! It is great having such a large amount of research info on everything we need to keep our C14's running well.
-
Aside from price and brand name, there isn't much info. Lots of people seem to be happy with EBC, saying they are better than OEM. (I suspect the Brembos are not much better than EBC)
From search, see also: http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=16676 (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=16676)
Maxtog,
thank you for reply. I think the EBC is the best.
-
Brembo.
-
I think the rotors aren't much different. The calipers, and more so the master cylinders, are where you'll notice the biggest differences. If you just Have to have Brembo, knock yourself out. The EBC are equally as good. Now, mate up the calipers and masters, and I'll admit I'd rather go with Brembo too. If my wallet could afford it.
-
+1 on the EBC rotors and pads. My OEM units where warped when i bought the bike at 16000km. They drove me mental for the rest of Las season. Installed EBC last month. So far so good.