Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => The Bike - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: h2smokin on February 09, 2014, 02:51:06 PM
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I would like to try a valve adjust on my bike. I have only done my klr650 once. I own all 2 strokes and this will be my first major foray into a modern bike with valves:). What parts am I gonna be needing for this? I called a dealer here in Tucson yesterday and was told just $660 for labor alone for 6 hours and $200 for parts. Will I may as well give it a shot at that price . I know I need a valve cover gasket but what else possibly? Do I need to replace the grommets for the cover bolts? Thanks for any help
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This is what they replaced on my bike for the second valve check...
- 11061-0263 (1) cover gasket $38.69
- 11061-0196 (4) hole $30.76
- 92055-0143 (7) ring $25.83
- Coolant (3) $26.97
The first valve check I had they also replaced 92055-0086 gasket for $6.96
This was just an adjust check. They didn't adjust anything.
Total service on mine was $624.25. They also replaced coolant, plugs, and did a TB sync
I really don't understand the $200 charge for parts. My dealer charged me less than $300 for the first check but everything was in spec.
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Wow, this thread is [dangerously close] to that famous thread of yore, 'What are the most common size shims used in a valve adjustment'. :yikes: Scared me a little when I first glanced at it.... :rotflmao:
You really do not need to much to do a valve lash check. The valve cover seal maybe although I think you can use them over again, check the O-Rings on all the oil pipes under the valve cover, and check the spark plug well seals. The seal on the side cover you have to remove is just an O-ring and is reusable. After that, the real hold up on this job is waiting for any shims you may need unless you have a well- stocked dealer nearby and they are willing to play the old 'let's trade shims' game.
Depending on the mileage of the bike, it can be a great idea to combine as many major maintenance items as you can as you have to strip the bike pretty far to get to the valve cover. Common items are spark plugs, a Throttle Body synch. and the air cleaner while you are that deep into the bike. Coolant changing is also a good idea as the fairings are already off.
Brian
I would like to try a valve adjust on my bike. I have only done my klr650 once. I own all 2 strokes and this will be my first major foray into a modern bike with valves:). What parts am I gonna be needing for this? I called a dealer here in Tucson yesterday and was told just $660 for labor alone for 6 hours and $200 for parts. Will I may as well give it a shot at that price . I know I need a valve cover gasket but what else possibly? Do I need to replace the grommets for the cover bolts? Thanks for any help
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I have no clue on why so much. I just priced what you listed and can get all of it except coolant for $83 . $110/hr for labor charge is crazy. It's Tucson, I paid $25 hr less in the Bay Area,California for something last year I needed done. Gonna order those videos and give it a shot. Just take my sweet time and get it done. With all the knowledge on this board I should be fine (I hope):)
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I don't mind waiting for shims if needed, I have other bikes 2 ride. Easy to work on kind, 2 strokes, been awhile since I broke out the h2. Did coolant last year anyways. Forgot about. Spark plugs. Wouldn't hurt to have new ones on hand if needed. Know nothing about synching throttle bodies . Guess I better start searching for that and what it involves.
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I don't mind waiting for shims if needed, I have other bikes 2 ride. Easy to work on kind, 2 strokes, been awhile since I broke out the h2. Did coolant last year anyways. Forgot about. Spark plugs. Wouldn't hurt to have new ones on hand if needed. Know nothing about synching throttle bodies . Guess I better start searching for that and what it involves.
Same as carbs, the object is to make the closed throttle airflow the same on each.
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I would like to try a valve adjust on my bike.
Wouldn't be a valve check thread if someone didn't ask what your mileage is.... you might not even want to bother with such a procedure yet...
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Bike just turned 25k now. Sorry about leaving that out.
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Just about perfect! You need an air filter for sure, you do not need spark plugs but at least you got some life out of them, it is worth checking the throttle body synch. now (I doubt you need to do it but it is not a waste of time at 25K IMO) and just time to do the first valve lash check. You can get a lot of maintenance out of one C-14 clothes strippin' sessions now.
Brian
Bike just turned 25k now. Sorry about leaving that out.
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I did the air filter and coolant at 20k. Gonna order some metric feeler gauges tomorrow, ones I have now are standard with metric conversion on them. Want some dedicated ones for this . Thank goodness for searching on here. Lots of reading today. Gonna try that throttle synch as well, along with routing houses for the next time . Give it a shot in a couple weeks once I have my parts in hand, well except shims anyhow
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Step away from the bike and keep your hands where we can see them. Unless of course you are looking for internet fame. Haroldo, you are gone but not forgotten.
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I am just putting mine back together after a valve adjustment. I replaced the valve cover gasket because there was a leak after I put it back on. On the first check a couple years ago I did not change it. I did replace the cam sensor o ring. Easy and cheap. They are known to fail. The seal on the side cover is recommended that you put some silicone on it which I did the first time but just cleaned it off and used it again. Other than that, just shims. Didn't do a TB synch because I can't find my gauges! I did it 15K ago, so gonna forget it this time.
Going to finish it off tomorrow!
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Did someone have some sort of chart for writing things on as you did the valves so that you could keep track of measurements and such? Thought I read it somewhere and would like to print it up. As for haraldo have no clue but it doesn't sound good
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Bunch of threads here. I think that we have a spreadsheet somewhere on the site. Possibly in one of these..
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=10264.0 (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=10264.0)
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There was a shim map floating around somewhere. Maybe in those threads.
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I will interject here, that the single most important thing you need is the Factory Service Manual.
It is priceless explaining all the little "remove this, then that" parts.
This is not to be taken lightly, there is valuable info there that simply cannot be transferred by watching a video.
JMHO/ YMMV
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I will interject here, that the single most important thing you need is the Factory Service Manual.
It is priceless explaining all the little "remove this, then that" parts.
This is not to be taken lightly, there is valuable info there that simply cannot be transferred by watching a video.
JMHO/ YMMV
Shhhhh, hush, how are we to get cheap, free entertainment? Good advice like that will get you promoted to a tech position ;)
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I will interject here, that the single most important thing you need is the Factory Service Manual.
It is priceless explaining all the little "remove this, then that" parts.
This is not to be taken lightly, there is valuable info there that simply cannot be transferred by watching a video.
+1
I ordered it from the dealer the day I bought the bike (same with the previous bikes and my cars).
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No worries I have the manual. Been reading it as well ( in between algebra). Not sure which is a worse read though or harder to understand. Made my parts list to order as well. I'm gonna get this done . I'm just going to have to be meticulous about it. Thanks for all the input so far. It's appreciated .
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Here's a link to what I found to be the best prices on the valve shims when I did mine in December.
(The C14 & ZX14 use the same shims.)
http://www.jakewilson.com/p/3998/26634/Pro-X-Valve-Shim?v=10019 (http://www.jakewilson.com/p/3998/26634/Pro-X-Valve-Shim?v=10019)
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+1 on Jake Wilson - they got them to me fast too.
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Ordered parts today finally. Was poking around looking through vents and noticed oil all over the left outer exhaust bolt, motor on the same side. Looked at fairing and oil has been dripping inside and running out the vent hole down by oil filter. Hope it's not a major issue. Don't want more headaches
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same here. 2011 bike.
it wasn't leaking from either one of the cam sensors (though i still replaced the o-ring), it's leaking from the valve cover gasket itself. never noticed a drop of oil on the floor, but the front left engine area was all gunked up with oil and sand.
i replaced the valve cover gasket with a light coating of high temp sealant on the inside of the gasket.
i was expecting the cover gasket to be in an "n" shape all around the gasket, but there are areas where there are gaps in the "n" shape facing the inside of the motor. maybe that's where the oil was pushing through.
this time round if it keeps leaking in the same area, i wouldn't bother anymore till the next valve check. too much trouble to get in there.
Ordered parts today finally. Was poking around looking through vents and noticed oil all over the left outer exhaust bolt, motor on the same side. Looked at fairing and oil has been dripping inside and running out the vent hole down by oil filter. Hope it's not a major issue. Don't want more headaches
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If that's the case it will get done when I do the valves. I'm taking it to dealer today as it is. Both of my wheel sensors are shot and want to get them replaced. Neither of them register anything anymore
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Valve cover gasket is covered under warranty. Let the warranty pay all the labor, and have them check the valve's.
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During the week end worked on my 09 connie with 40K and did for the first time the valve lash check and all valves were with in specifications specially the exhaust side , also replaced the spark plugs, air filter, throttle body sync, cam sensors seal, coolant , clutch fluid, but after clean everything perfectly put all together to be able to start the engine for the TB sync find out that the brand new cover gasket leaked and the exhaust side cam sensor also was leaking from were the wires come out from the sensor itself,
Have to order a new sensor and remove the cover again to apply sealant and put some washers under the 7 bolts that hold the cover down to compensate for the original washers that did not ordered a new ones and are already compressed and thinner than they are when new
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Mind if I ask if your valves at 40k were on the low side of recommended clearance, or above?
Sounds like a good plan to have sealant ready and all expendable parts on hand to button things back up, and probably a good idea to renew any sensors that were disturbed from their original positions.
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Mind if I ask if your valves at 40k were on the low side of recommended clearance, or above?
Sounds like a good plan to have sealant ready and all expendable parts on hand to button things back up, and probably a good idea to renew any sensors that were disturbed from their original positions.
All the intake side except one were on the low side of the recommended clearance but the exhaust side all were right there on the recommended clearance