Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => The Bike - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: phildobaggins on November 05, 2013, 10:20:51 PM
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I traded up from a 2009 Versys which I loved thrashing around while commuting everyday. Now its like I'm riding a spaceship to work, so much nicer. The POWWAAAA. Its so nice having this much torque on tap to comfortable and calmly ride around, its very effortless.
I picked it up with 0 miles 2 weeks ago and Im now closing in on 800 miles. At first the bike felt very heavy but now I don't even notice it.
I picked up a tire warranty, 5 tires for 300 bucks which is a steal as well as the extended GTPP 3 year plan. I really love this machine.
A few items I have discovered:
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You must pre-load the shifter (very lightly pick up the slack, not necessarily push on the forks) and shift quickly, its very smooth. sloppy shifting feels very clanky on this transmission.
Throttle slack was way off out of the box, loosed both lock nuts. Took up the slack by tightening the return cable (further from the grip) and then had to play with the throttle cable. I set it to 1mm and now its much more responsive especially during a roll off/on when shifting.
Changed the oil at 400 miles and it was full of metalics which was expected, changed out rear end oil for mobil1 75w90 with appropriate fill level.
A few bolts on the plastic diff cover are fake, it had my baffled until I got one out and realized it was some aesthetic choice by the designers.
After 500 miles I pulled the windshield, tank cover, glove box, upper dash and upper plastic (vented) fairings. While it all came out easily the fairings were a pain to line up and get back in, the glove box also did not want to seat back in easily. I checked the header nuts, all tight and mine had loctite from the factory.
All chassis/suspension bolts were tight at 500 but ALLL plastic panel bolts were loose.
Left hard bag does not seal as well as the right, maybe i'll have it warranty replaced. No biggie, its still water tight.
I would only ride for an hour before I wanted to punch myself in the @#$@# on the versys. Although I could hang off on the versys and slide the rear end occasionally while starting every light with a wheelie the Connie is comfortable. I'm 6'4 and around 300lbs. Its like some Japanese moto-god built me a superbike with luggage. Everything fits perfect. I can ride it for 3-4 hours without getting off.
Kipass is not annoying and it works well. I have read so much fuss about it yet I ride everyday, I gear up and down many times perday. I start the bike 2-3 times a day and it Kipass works.
Its been raining in Central Texas for a week or two and the bike handles rain like a champ.
I like the windshield in the lower position, the upper position gives the expected and complained about buffeting/bobble. I like to feel the wind on me, part of the experience and the lower position gives me more street cred with the mohawk CBR/ZX/GSXR crowd.
The bike handles amazing for 688lbs wet and a 300lb rider. I rode Lime Creek rd Leander, Tx rd a few times and it just plain handles well out of the box for what it is. Brakes dig in hard, smooth throttle control at 4k through the apex and roll on right after 5k rockets to the next turn. I was expecting the bike to not impress me that much in handling but it did.
I know people swap out the rear for a 190/55 but I think it works just fine with 44psi and the stock 190/50. I do not want to hit the limit in the corner on this bike, I was scraping boots already!!!
Somebody ate all my chicken strips.
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I swapped in dino kawasaki 10w40 and a kawa filter/crush washer. I had a giftcard on amazon and the oil change kit was 50 bucks shipped. After another 700-800 miles i'll swap in some amsoil. I see a bunch of really good UOA's on them for high hp 4 cyl bike engines.
I have an airhawk 2 med cruiser pad in the mail. I plan on riding from central texas to Enterprise, AL in January, stay with my brother for a day then ride back. Hopefully the airhawk will make the bike even more comfortable for a long tour, which I have never done.
Future plans:
Vance & Hines CS One Black pipe
passenger peg lowering kit for the wife
Thats really about it.
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I'm so sorry the C-14 doesn't live up to your expectations :(
Though I still ride a C-10, it's my understanding you need to accumulate at least 10,000 miles before a C-14 will become 'one with its owner'
My suggestion is to ride the fookin pee outta your bike for the next 5-10,000 miles, report back then.
BTW, welcome to the nut house :)
Rick
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You may want to try Mobil1 MC 10w40 at some point. The shifting is better with that oil in it. At least it was for me.
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Somebody ate all my chicken strips.
- that last half inch requires a fair bit of commitment on the rider's part !!
- nice review.
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Congrats and welcome
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Kipass is not annoying and it works well. I have read so much fuss about it yet I ride everyday, I gear up and down many times perday. I start the bike 2-3 times a day and it Kipass works.
KIPASS rocks! It will keep you safe from all the gremlins. Keeping the FOB with you is almost like having Green Lanterns ring. ;D
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Welcome to the site. I'm sure your experience will keep getting better.
Great critique of the bike which is a wonderful motorcycle for long distance touring and around town.
I have been using Amsoil 10/40 in my 2011 for the last 28,000 miles without a hitch. I do read that Mobil 1 is also a good oil and is available from most stores as opposed to having to order Amsoil, which I've never had a problem.
Maybe try each and see which to see what works better in your motorcycle.
No this is not the start of an oil thread.
Good Luck and Happy Riding.
Brent
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My experience thus far has been fantastic and way above what I expected.
I went to the dealer to get a new inspection sticker since the sticker on my versys washed away. They had a 2008 C14 on the used lot with 40k miles on it. I asked my sales guy to let me take it out. As soon as I got it on the street I knew I had to own one. A sportbike for giants.
The engine is definitely loosening up. The transmission with preloading the shifter makes no sound and no physical or audible feedback when shifting ors so smooth. I still need to hunker down and find out where my suspension settings are. Im positive the dealer stiffened up the rear preload for me at a minimum.
I've been using Dry Slide http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001F2Y25G/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001F2Y25G/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) lube on controls/pegs etc... and its been working really well even in the rain. Normally I would just spray wd40 once a week (The PFTE version) but I like being able to apply with a needle and not a huge messy spray.
I ran nothing but rotella T6 5w-40 in my last bike, I changed it every 2000 since its so cheap and I rode many short distances (fuel dilution). I like the UOA's I see from mobil1 4t and amsoil MCF users especially with 4 cyl bikes. But if I end up getting another Amazon giftcard i'll probably just order another Oil change kit for 50 bucks. The oil in my sight glass still looks clean/clear probably due to never having to slip the clutch with the amount of torque on tap. Who knows...i'm sure i'll be on a 'choose your own oil adventure' soon enough.
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Throttle slack was way off out of the box, loosed both lock nuts. Took up the slack by tightening the return cable (further from the grip) and then had to play with the throttle cable. I set it to 1mm and now its much more responsive especially during a roll off/on when shifting.
The tech who put the bike together should have taken care of that. Hope that isn't an indication of the workmanship they do if you need warranty service.
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I typically do all my own service. I just don't have a lot of faith in service departments for small stuff. Its almost like if your not getting a new motor/tranny swapped then you have to go back and check to make sure they did something.....shim's.....
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...I've been using Dry Slide http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001F2Y25G/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001F2Y25G/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)...
Nice write-up. I have some of that in my rifle tool box and will try it.
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Now this is a new member with great insight, shrewd powers of observation and clearly a taste for the finer things in life....
:rotflmao:
Congrats on the new ride and best of luck with it.
Brian
I traded up from a 2009 Versys which I loved thrashing around while commuting everyday. Now its like I'm riding a spaceship to work, so much nicer. The POWWAAAA. Its so nice having this much torque on tap to comfortable and calmly ride around, its very effortless.
I picked it up with 0 miles 2 weeks ago and Im now closing in on 800 miles. At first the bike felt very heavy but now I don't even notice it.
I picked up a tire warranty, 5 tires for 300 bucks which is a steal as well as the extended GTPP 3 year plan. I really love this machine.
A few items I have discovered:
<snipped unimportant discoveries, left in important discovery>
Kipass is not annoying and it works well. I have read so much fuss about it yet I ride everyday, I gear up and down many times perday. I start the bike 2-3 times a day and it Kipass works.
<snipped the final unimportant parts of the post>
Thats really about it.
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Hmmm. I wonder how he got through the screening process then? Must have been when I taking my meds. Either that or the voices distracted me again. That's right, I'm absolutely :nuts: about the C14. Welcome to the fold!
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Hi Phil,
I'm 6'8" and 275 lbs. and you are right! After "making do" with every other bike I have owned as well as I could. The Japanese finally made one for the big guys! Not only in ergonomics but the POWER to move our weight as if we were "normal" Ha!
I just sent my seat to Seth Laam and can't wait to get it back,I have a 2012 with about 2200 miles on it and I get amazed with this great bike on every ride! I use Mobil 1 Syn. in my truck and wife's Honda Element and will probably use it on the bike. Supposedly the shifting gets even better with synthetic oil!
Some people mention the weight of the bike as a problem but I think it is great as I don't get blown around on the interstate by the 18 wheelers and as far as in the twisties no problem, as I am heavy enough to move the bike into the turn! Yep I was in love on the bike by the first stop light coming home from the dealers!
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Congrats on the new bike. If you don't mind long conversations about strangers asking about your bike while parked, post some pics in this thread http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=12535.0 (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=12535.0)
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I just sent my seat to Seth Laam and can't wait to get it back
How did you get in contact with him? I have emailed, filled out forms on his website, and called him. He called me back once while I was at work and I didn't answer (wish I did). Can't get him to call back again!
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Hi,
He's busy! YOU have to call and you will get him! A very nice Gentleman!
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^^^who is that in your signature pic?
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Hi,
He's busy! YOU have to call and you will get him! A very nice Gentleman!
Curious, did he give you an estimated eta?
I live close enough for an over-nighter to
get it done in case of any on-site mods....his stuff looks nice. Tim
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^^^who is that in your signature pic?
Hi,
I don't know ( My Puerto Rican wife won't let me keep Pets!) but she looks dangerous!!
I wish I lived close enough to Seth Laam to let him do my seat while I was there!!! Being in FL I'm just going to have to trust his knowledge but after talking to him feel confident he will do an excellent job!
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Congrats on your new bike! Great write up. What kind of tire warranty is it that you purchased? Is it just a service plan for tires?
I bought a warranty through Zurich Direct that covers tire and rim damage. They put a new tire matching what you had mounted at time of loss. It was $320 for 4 years unlimited mileage. I put Michelin PR2s on after the first set. They seem to last the longest.
Enjoy your new ride. It gets funner after the first 3,000 miles.
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Its a tire/rim damage/towing package. But it also covers wear which is kinda odd considering the math works out in the customers favor rather than the typical business plan. I guess they expect X number of people will sell the bike and forget about the warranty or X number of people wont use it or the dealership just puts a nail in your tire after the wear gets low.
On another front I spent a couple hours getting the suspension dialed in.
Notes:
The left fork rebound was 5 clicks while the right was 4 clicks.
Fork preloads were max soft with all washers/bars whatever showing. Both were set to the same level.
Rear preload was set to 10 clicks from softest or 14 clicks out. (should be 13 and I had the sales guy tighten it 4 clicks before I got on it, I watched him tighent it) So this means it was set to 20 clicks out... yucky
Rear rebound was 2.25 turns from lock, mucho softer than stock specs.
With all these bad settings from a new bike i'm assuming the dealer techs dicked with it for a potentional customer to sit on and test around the block.
My new settings:
Front Preload: tightened to 3.25 washers/bars showing
Front Rebound 3 clicks out counter clockwise
Rear Preload: 18 clicks (6 clicks from full lock counter clockwise)
Rear Rebound: 1.5 turns out counter clockwise
Took the bike out. Much stiffer and much more responsive. I'll get some more daily miles on it and re-tune as needed.
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Also my bike stalled out on me once before under hard accelleration..
1st... roll off/on clutch 2nd roll off/on clutch dead.... hold clutch and hit the starter or shift up a few and slowly let the clutch out
Today during some "private and closed road course" riding I was in 3rd under full throttle, preloaded the shifter roll off/on clutch and the bike died in 4th. I pulled the clutch and got on the brakes while hitting the starter button.
I guess is either my idle is too low (which I have adjusted in the past couple days more than once since it seemed either too high or too low) or I rattled my battery terminal/s loose. I probably adjusted it down when I had ECO mode on which put my regular idle a touch to low since ECO mode runs a high lean idle.
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Set it to about 1200 rpm or so when hot. That should fix the stalling. Some bikes have come with the idle set too low.
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Yeah my idle was set to about 1000-1050 out of the box. I'll up it tomorrow after a 10-15 minute ride to work. I know I already checked the battery cables after the 600 mile bolt/nut/screw check so the idle adjust should fix the issue.
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You might as well adjust the throttle cables too.
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I did that on day 2 of ownership. There was quite a bit of slack. After adjustment it shifts much smoother and responds much better.
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:thumbs: Way ahead of me.
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I totally get why the lean eco map idles higher than the regular map but does anyone else notice the deceleration lag when blipping the throttle on the eco map? Decel from 2500 back to the high idle seams feathered or delayed. I did a couple full throttle runs from 1st to 2nd after adjusting this morning. It didn't stall. However I did miss the 1st to 2nd shift again, this is about the 5-6th time so far. I must not be doing something right (clutch not all the way in, shifting to slow, not rolling hard, not pulling up hard enough on the shifter).
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Have you adjusted the foot shift lever?
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Not yet. I suppose I could lower the shifter a tad so I can have more pull on up shifts and see if that helps. I wear a size 15 so I usually get pretty good torque on the shifters but i'll fiddle with the adjuster nuts tonight/tomorrow and see what I come up with. The best thing I've done for shifting is bringing up the revs to 4k before shifting...so much smoother when combined with an uber light touch preload (more of foot pre-positioning than preload).
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Unless I'm stopping I don't do much more than fan the clutch lever when upshifting.
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However I did miss the 1st to 2nd shift again, this is about the 5-6th time so far. I must not be doing something right.
That is the most difficult shift, since it is has further to go (past/through neutral) AND it is more likely to be higher RPM (more mis-match) AND you have to shift faster than any other sequence.
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Hi,
All I had to readjust on mine was the suspension and the rear brake pedal. The brake pedal was set to low and you had to just about push to the tarmac to get it to work! Was easy to adjust though!
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Yeah my idle was set to about 1000-1050 out of the box. I'll up it tomorrow after a 10-15 minute ride to work. I know I already checked the battery cables after the 600 mile bolt/nut/screw check so the idle adjust should fix the issue.
- sorry to hear that you're having some stalling issues with the new bike.
- just FYI , my 2012 C14 idles at approx 900 rpms when hot (non ECON mode) and does not stall between shifts.
- shifting is helped by (a) preloading the shift pedal during upshifts and (b) getting most of the slack out of the throttle cable.
.
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Definitely repeatable, I moved my hot idle up to 1200-1250 and the bike will stall after a 1st or 2nd gear pull to redline then hold the clutch. It dips to 700 rpm then dies.
I'll bump up the rpm a little more and see what I come up with. Could be it wasn't fully warm or that the temp dropped 15 degrees today.
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Bumped it up to about 1400 on a hot idle (55f ambient) and ran it hard a few times without it shutting off on me.
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1400 is too much
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Hard to believe holding it at redline and then slamming the throttle closed could induce a stall.
Have you tried going all the way to see if there really is a rev-limiter?
That usually cleans the plugs off and cures whatever ails it. ;D
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Thanks for the sarcasm
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I am surprised that the bike stalls with the idle set that high but going to redline, closing the throttle quickly and letting the engine return all the way to idle is pretty severe; the ECU will withhold fuel to reduce the engine speed but when it does get back into the idle RPM range, the entire induction system is dry (without fuel) so the small amount then injected may not be enough to prevent a stall. Nothing wrong with bumping the idle up a bit more either although that tends to exacerbate other situations such as shifting into first with the bike stopped (it makes a bigger lurch).
As the bike is new, the engine will loosen up a bit too and that may help the overall throttle response.
Brian
Definitely repeatable, I moved my hot idle up to 1200-1250 and the bike will stall after a 1st or 2nd gear pull to redline then hold the clutch. It dips to 700 rpm then dies.
I'll bump up the rpm a little more and see what I come up with. Could be it wasn't fully warm or that the temp dropped 15 degrees today.
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My bike 900rpms at best and NO problem????????
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For better shifting, replaced the cheap plastic bushing in the shifter with a ball bearing one. You'll notice the difference immediately. The stock plastic bushing will get sloppy sooner than later.
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new bikes do not have that plastic bushing on the shift lever
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For better shifting, replaced the cheap plastic bushing in the shifter with a ball bearing one. You'll notice the difference immediately. The stock plastic bushing will get sloppy sooner than later.
Truthfully, I couldn't tell the difference, but YMMV. I'm also an unfeeling sod, or so I've been told at times.
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new bikes do not have that plastic bushing on the shift lever
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What do they have?
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Just lowered my shift lever 3/4-1" on my lunch break. Much easier to shift. I might raise it up just a 1/8" or so just to give my giant boots bit more room but this appears to have solved my issue missing 2nd due to wimpy shifting.
Excellent.
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Whay do they have?
there is a steel sleeve pressed into the pedal. No plastic bushing.
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1159 miles, swapped out the free kawi 10w40 dino for some new rotella T Triple 15w40 / fram moto filter. Changed the rear oil as well with mobil 1 75w90. Both engine/diff had lots of fine break-in material. I'll probably do another early change at 3000 then start longer OCI.
I'm curious if the extra zinc will make shifts even smoother.
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I change the dif. fluid at every oil change. Such a small price to pay.
I use the Rotella T-6 and the same gear oil as you. I have had great luck with it.
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There is a noticeable difference is clutch grab with the rotella 15w40 over the Kawasaki 10w40. Rotella is smoother (this could just be that its fresh oil) getting in and out of the friction zone. Gear changes remain the same.
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My gear changing stayed the same. I can not go over 4,000 miles before an oil change. It just starts to feel slightly different.
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My shifts feel real notchy after 700-1000 miles on the oil but I commute 90% city, oil never gets to temp and I'm sure fuel dilution is high hence why I went to 15w40. This was the same on my versys, most likely due to a ton of short commutes per day.
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Try the T-6 and you will notice much improved shifting in about the first 100 ft or so. ;D MUCH better shifting. My friend has 120,000 miles on his 08 and uses the Rotela T-6 (19.99 for a gallon jug @ wal mart ), Purolator PL14610 oil filter ( about 5.99 @ Advance Auto ) and the 75/90 Mobil-1 in the back. Original clutch still and no mechanical problems. Amazing.... 8)
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I exclusively ran T6 in my kawa versys but after reading UOA's for the connie14 on T6 it looks like 15w40 holds a lot better over a few thousand miles. I can give it a try and see how it responds but right now it looks like the 15w40 HDEO's are much better for trying to achieve more than 1500 miles before it shears to a 30w oil.
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Phil if you are worrying about shearing then try Amsoil or Mobil-1 20-50. Very stable over the long run. And great shifting. Give em a try....I really think one of those two would give you results you will like. Performance and mileage..... 8)
I will say though that the 120,000 miles on my friends and over 80,000 miles on stevewfl's (on this forum and other's ) are real world results that are hard to argue with. Both use Rotella T-6. Those results fly in the face of people arguing on the internet over oil analysys.
Charles
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I'll throw T6 in on the next change and report back.
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10-4 8)
I just bought a barely used Concours and have not ridden very many miles on it yet but sure did enjoy them. I know you have got to be loving yours and I am enjoying reading this thread and your opinions on the bike.
Charles
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Phil if you are worrying about shearing then try Amsoil or Mobil-1 20-50. Very stable over the long run. And great shifting. Give em a try....I really think one of those two would give you results you will like. Performance and mileage..... 8)
I will say though that the 120,000 miles on my friends and over 80,000 miles on stevewfl's (on this forum and other's ) are real world results that are hard to argue with. Both use Rotella T-6. Those results fly in the face of people arguing on the internet over oil analysys.
Charles
+1
Yes sir, I suspect the Rotella T6 will get me to about 200,000 miles or so and something else will kill the bike other than my oil selection. At which time I'll part it out on the ebay (http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/icon10.gif)
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Just about any oil will work and keep the engine healthy if its changed often enough. For me this is my daily hobby. If I get to wrench on something and change the oil every 2000 then its just bonus fun time.
This week I have really been working on getting my shifting where I want it to be. After adjusting the shift lever down I stopped missing the upshift to 2nd. However, I have missed 3 to 4 a few times and its due to wimpy shifts. I think the lightness in the transmission of my previous bike (versys) got me into some bad habits.
I have set aside some of my wife-less time I would normally go riding on the weekend to do some parking lot drills to get my skills back up to where they were on the versys:
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Mindfulness of every shift up and down with a light pre-load, fast snap and quick throttle/clutch. (been doing this day one, broke my habits of shifting at 2500, now closer to 3500-4000 and its much smoother)
Ordered some cones to use in practicing MSF skills (SLOW SPEED DRILLS) since I lost most of my slow speed skills: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RY6DCS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2I01FNSVQ74N9 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RY6DCS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2I01FNSVQ74N9)
Lock to Lock turns...see above
I would practice getting more weight inside the turns but I cannot achieve a good foot position on the bike due to the passenger peg mounts catching my heel. My size 50 EU Alpinestar boots just don't let me into a position to properly weight the peg with the ball of my foot. However I can still pull a 1 cheek sneak and lean off to keep from leaning the bike to far.
Graceful stopping and takeoff (getting there now that the weight has disappeared)
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Sounds nerdy but I really enjoy going out on a Sunday and going to my favorite secret abandoned/unsold spot and doing slow speed shiz. Everyone can go fast in a straight line, but I like to pride myself on pulling into gas stations and making nice tight turns and never putting a foot down until i'm at the pump. In traffic I always see guys walking bikes or leaving their feet down at 15mph and that is goofy.
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Not nerdy at all..... :) Adding good low speed skills takes time and practice. Clutch modulation, clutch modulation, clutch modulation...... ;D
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Mad, mad skills....... ;D 8)
Japanese Police Motorcycle Riding Competition (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YZ-pTyQZJng#)
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Utah Highway Patrol Motorcycle competition 8/28/2010 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dOTo2x6vHnY#)
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Just about any oil will work and keep the engine healthy if its changed often enough. For me this is my daily hobby. If I get to wrench on something and change the oil every 2000 then its just bonus fun time.
This week I have really been working on getting my shifting where I want it to be. After adjusting the shift lever down I stopped missing the upshift to 2nd. However, I have missed 3 to 4 a few times and its due to wimpy shifts. I think the lightness in the transmission of my previous bike (versys) got me into some bad habits.
I have set aside some of my wife-less time I would normally go riding on the weekend to do some parking lot drills to get my skills back up to where they were on the versys:
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Mindfulness of every shift up and down with a light pre-load, fast snap and quick throttle/clutch. (been doing this day one, broke my habits of shifting at 2500, now closer to 3500-4000 and its much smoother)
Ordered some cones to use in practicing MSF skills (SLOW SPEED DRILLS) since I lost most of my slow speed skills: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RY6DCS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2I01FNSVQ74N9 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RY6DCS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2I01FNSVQ74N9)
Lock to Lock turns...see above
I would practice getting more weight inside the turns but I cannot achieve a good foot position on the bike due to the passenger peg mounts catching my heel. My size 50 EU Alpinestar boots just don't let me into a position to properly weight the peg with the ball of my foot. However I can still pull a 1 cheek sneak and lean off to keep from leaning the bike to far.
Graceful stopping and takeoff (getting there now that the weight has disappeared)
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Sounds nerdy but I really enjoy going out on a Sunday and going to my favorite secret abandoned/unsold spot and doing slow speed shiz. Everyone can go fast in a straight line, but I like to pride myself on pulling into gas stations and making nice tight turns and never putting a foot down until i'm at the pump. In traffic I always see guys walking bikes or leaving their feet down at 15mph and that is goofy.
I wouldn't attempt any low speed turns on the stock Crapstones. Bad juju, trust me on this one. I did learn I could hold up a 700 lb. bike for about 30 seconds, though.
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"I wouldn't attempt any low speed turns on the stock Crapstones. Bad juju, trust me on this one. I did learn I could hold up a 700 lb. bike for about 30 seconds, though."
:finger_fing11:
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Hey Phil,
How is the new bike coming along? Been riding these past few days? :)
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Yessir. I daily ride and commute on the beast. So far I have 1500 miles in 1 month of ownership, not to bad. I have been a hooligan this week attempting clutch wheelies which I find it just spins the rear so I gave up on that. Its been 30's here in Austin in the morning and 40's in the day so I've only gone pleasure riding a few times a week as opposed to 6 hours on sat and 6 hours on sun. Bike is good and I can attest at this point it is built to take a beatin. Now that I gave up on wheelies i'll focus back on shifting/slow speed maneuvers etc... :)