Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C10, aka Kawasaki Concours - The Original => Accessories and Modifications - C10 => Topic started by: IraB on September 14, 2013, 05:15:55 PM
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Noticed right away that the gauge on my 03 was way the heck off. The full throw of the needle indicates the first 1/2 tank used when I am FAR more interested in knowing about the LAST 1/2 tank.
Just had the tank off to install overflow tubes and figured it would be as good a time as any to deal with the issue.
After perusing the forums I found most people were putting resistors in the gauge wiring. I've had very good results in other vehicles by simply bending the float arm on the sending unit and wanted to try that first because to me it seems simpler and less jury rigged.
After application of TLAR engineering ( That Looks About Right ) I decided to bend it downward about 1 inch.
Just got back from the gas station. The gauge was reading 1/2 a tank and it took 3.5 gals to top off. :)
Only posting because this fix took all of 5 min. and cost was zero $$.
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I applaud your "go at it" attitude vs trying to find a work around.
This is exactly how I fixed mine over 10 years ago.
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I've got the same situation & haven't done "the fix", yet. Just reset my trip & fill up every 240-270 miles.
Still can't figure why mama Kaw couldn't do that on the assembly line. :deadhorse:
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Or you can do this in about 10 minutes.
http://c10mods.blogspot.com/2011/07/c10-fuel-gauge-modification.html (http://c10mods.blogspot.com/2011/07/c10-fuel-gauge-modification.html)
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I'm sure the resistor thing can work but it goes against my use of the KISS rule. Why add wiring when I'm already trying to clean/tidy/simplify the wiring up and all I really need too do is slightly bend a small metal rod? Also, the next time you do a valve adjustment this fix adds a whopping 5 min. to the job.
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I'm sure the resistor thing can work but it goes against my use of the KISS rule. Why add wiring when I'm already trying to clean/tidy/simplify the wiring up and all I really need too do is slightly bend a small metal rod? Also, the next time you do a valve adjustment this fix adds a whopping 5 min. to the job.
Different strokes for different folks.... Adding a resister can be done without so much as pulling the fuel tank from the bike which adds the risk of dropping the dam thing or buggering up the gasket.... With that being said I went with bending the rod in 02......
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I bent the rod too, seemed simpler and more permanent. Mine doesn't start to move off full until about 115 miles, then goes down pretty good. I try to fill up around 200 miles and I take 5-6 gallons depending how I was riding , indicating 1/4 or so. Again it's a trial and error process, just takes time and waiting till the tank is down before pulling the float out. If you're on a roll, just hook a hose on the petcock and let her go into a 5 gallon gas can. If you're trying to calibrate it, I would think I would have more concern on how close to empty I was rather than how full I was. When I changed the float (to a non correct)float on my vintage Willys car, I was more concerned with the amount of fuel between 1/4 tank and none, since the odometer wasn't working.
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I bent the rod too, seemed simpler and more permanent. Mine doesn't start to move off full until about 115 miles, then goes down pretty good. I try to fill up around 200 miles and I take 5-6 gallons depending how I was riding , indicating 1/4 or so. Again it's a trial and error process, just takes time and waiting till the tank is down before pulling the float out. If you're on a roll, just hook a hose on the petcock and let her go into a 5 gallon gas can. If you're trying to calibrate it, I would think I would have more concern on how close to empty I was rather than how full I was. When I changed the float (to a non correct)float on my vintage Willys car, I was more concerned with the amount of fuel between 1/4 tank and none, since the odometer wasn't working.
Just curious, when you bent the sender rod, was it downward or up and how much?
I suspect the factory bend in these things was not done to a tight tolerance and so the amount of re-bending needed for an accurate fix may vary.
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Actually, it is simple to add the 220 Ohm resistor directly to the sensor wiring harness plug in 2 minutes...no wires, no removing of the tank or the float, no draining of gas, no bending, no guessing and rebending. Gotta take the seat off, though.
Just sayin.
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Actually, it is simple to add the 220 Ohm resistor directly to the sensor wiring harness plug in 2 minutes...no wires, no removing of the tank or the float, no draining of gas, no bending, no guessing and rebending. Gotta take the seat off, though.
Just sayin.
I can see the attraction if someone is not already pulling the bike apart.