Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C10, aka Kawasaki Concours - The Original => The Bike - C10 => Topic started by: Uded2me on July 18, 2013, 03:54:17 PM
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I picked up a slightly used one from someone that upgraded. $150 for the rotor, and attached wheel and a Pilot GT with about 3/4 tread left. It works for me, though the tire is loooong gone.
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d e a d
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I wouldn't even consider the 5mm. The thinner they are, the more likely it is they will warp when used hard.
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Kawasaki did a wierd one with C10 brakes. Front discs are thinner and smaller diameter than the rear. Given that the front discs do a lot more work than the rear and at 5mm are within specification I'd be prepared to give the Chinese disc a go on the rear. I've had the Chinese front ones for a while now and they have not worn or warped.
Regards, Russell
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I'll echo what Russell said. If you are working your rear brakes hard enough to warp them, you are using WAY too much rear brake.
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I'll buy those arguments that thinner rear should be fine.
Wow, can't believe new units are so pricey. I checked with a machine shop that turns car rotors a number of years ago and they said they don't have the setup to do bike rotors and mentioned that bike rotors are so thin they would be too easy to warp in the turning process. Seems that someone could make some money if they had a setup to cool the rotor with oil as it's being turned, and people may be willing to pay a lot more than the $10 they charge for turning car rotors.
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just because a rotor has some grooves in isn't reason enough to replace it, even if it's near the low end of spec...hell get some new pads, and run it if it isn't warped....
it's a rear brake man, a rear brake..... if it ain't warped, run it. ;D ;D ;D ;)
bike discs are blanchard ground (both sides simultaniously), not turned, you can't "turn" bike rotors, they flex. ::)
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I once took some wet sandpaper to mine. Put sandpaper on rubber sanding block, started bike, put in 1st gear and let idle while on centerstand, holding sanding block on rotor. It took the "glaze" off the rotor and slightly smoothed the grooving, but only about 15 minutes was spent on doing it this way. DONT TRY THIS AT HOME, and that is my disclaimer.
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I've never had any problems setting up and cutting bike rotors on a brake lathe. Good Ceramic tool bits and a reasonable speed has always given good results.
Most shops treat their brake lathes like crap and buy the cheapest cutters they can then use them until they are totally trashed.
Just my experience.
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Awhile back there were Chinese rotors for sale I think on a dutch auction on ebay? Quite a few guys got them and so far I haven't heard many complaints, A LOT less expensive than anybody else but made in China. I'm sure if you do a search for "Chinese rotors" you'd find them, I'm sure they are still for sale.
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Could these be the ones?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2xFront-Brake-Rotor-Disc-Kawasaki-ZX400-GPZ-500S-ZX600-Ninja-R-ZX750GPZ-GTR1000-/251217232639?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3AKawasaki%7CModel%3AConcours&hash=item3a7db6c2ff&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/2xFront-Brake-Rotor-Disc-Kawasaki-ZX400-GPZ-500S-ZX600-Ninja-R-ZX750GPZ-GTR1000-/251217232639?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3AKawasaki%7CModel%3AConcours&hash=item3a7db6c2ff&vxp=mtr)
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OOPs sorry, those are for up to '93's only. But you get the idea, I just wasn't sure if that's the same sale.
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I thought the rear rotors were the same through the years?
Wayne
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I may try setting my used eBay rotor on a lathe and seeing if I can do anything with it - beats watching reruns on television.
I've got about 6 more warped stockers if you need more to play with.....you pay the shipping. :o
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Long ago, I took my rear rotor to a place that grinds flywheel clutch surfaces.
They put my rotor on a magnetic (I think) base and ground it. Turned it over and did the other side.
(You might look into this option instead of using a lathe).
I'm sure the rotor was below specs when they were done, but I was leaving on a trip and had to have it quick.
Worked fine, (never warped) and was on the bike when I sold it to another COGger. (@ 120,000 miles)
To my knowledge it is still on my 86.
Ride safe, Ted
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I have an original rear rotor setting on my workbench. It only has about 9k on it before I went to a 17" rear wheel. Make an offer it's yours.
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I once took some wet sandpaper to mine. Put sandpaper on rubber sanding block, started bike, put in 1st gear and let idle while on centerstand, holding sanding block on rotor. It took the "glaze" off the rotor and slightly smoothed the grooving, but only about 15 minutes was spent on doing it this way. DONT TRY THIS AT HOME, and that is my disclaimer.
BAD IDEA I have a picture in my head of some poor fool who attempted to clean his chain in gear
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