Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => The Bike - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: Burbs on June 16, 2013, 08:39:18 AM
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Welp...all those years of making jokes about Harley's always needing to be fixed has apparently come back to get me! Last night my wife and I were heading home and as I was coming to stop sign the bike died. I tried to restart it and the dreaded "immobilizer error" appeared on my dash. We weren't too far from home so our neighbor picked up my wife and before they left, she grabbed me a new battery for the FOB, but that didn't work. So after waiting three hours for the tow truck, I got the bike home. I had my wife come out with the other FOB and it began to work, but when I went to start it, it died again and the immobilizer error came back.
Any thoughts on what it could be? Could it be a bike's battery? It is OEM, so maybe it's time to replace it. Any other troubleshooting ideas you recommend? Bear in mind, I'm not the most mechanically inclined person in the world.
Thanks,
Chris
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I have been doing some thinking and have come up with a crude drawing of something Kawasaki could use on its future bike to prevent this problem. Sorry it can't help your current situation.
(http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a468/RCRide/Misc%20Images/keytohappiness.jpg)
:thumbs:
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Also, did you try the method for starting the bike with a dead FOB battery as outlined in the manual?
Okay, I just looked at the manual and realize that the Immobilizer warning is not related to the FOB. There is a separate warning for that. It is too early for me and I'm still working on the coffee. The manual was very helpful stating that you should take your bike to the dealer. I would be tempted to check connections.
Brian will be here soon I'm sure and he will be able to offer some insight.
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I did check the manual and read that I should bring it to the dealer as well. I'd like to exhaust all my options, within reason, before bringing it down to the dealer if possible.
But I did find your key post very funny! ;D
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Great idea- I believe you have shown us a divinig rod that will point out the problem? That would really help diagnosing problems around the bike.
Seeing as Chris said the bike died, and KiPass has absolutely no ability to stop a running bike, I know you didn't mean that a conventional key would solve his current problem.... ;)
Brian
I have been doing some thinking and have come up with a crude drawing of something Kawasaki could use on its future bike to prevent this problem. Sorry it can't help your current situation.
(http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a468/RCRide/Misc%20Images/keytohappiness.jpg)
:thumbs:
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So what do you think Brian? Could it be a battery or fuse issue? The bike's now out of warranty, so I'm a bit fearful of what the cost may be to get this fixed.
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Hey Chris- first off, my very first guess: loose battery cable(s).
The key (pun intended) to your post is that the bike died as you were coming to a stop sign: KiPass of course does not have the ability to stop or interfere in any way wtih a running bike. Whatever happened to your bike to cause it to stall cannot be related to KiPass. The fact that you had an 'Immobilizer Error' show up immediately after suggests to me that something electrical is wrong but something much more global that the KiPass system.
So again, check both battery cables and the battery ground cable where it attaches to the bike's frame. After that, regulator and alternator along with the connectors to both would be on my list.
Of course it is possible that something more subtle is going on here such as a loose ECU cable but I believe that to be highly unlikely.
Best of luck with the problem and please feel free to contact me if you think I can be of any help.
Brian
Welp...all those years of making jokes about Harley's always needing to be fixed has apparently come back to get me! Last night my wife and I were heading home and as I was coming to stop sign the bike died. I tried to restart it and the dreaded "immobilizer error" appeared on my dash. We weren't too far from home so our neighbor picked up my wife and before they left, she grabbed me a new battery for the FOB, but that didn't work. So after waiting three hours for the tow truck, I got the bike home. I had my wife come out with the other FOB and it began to work, but when I went to start it, it died again and the immobilizer error came back.
Any thoughts on what it could be? Could it be a bike's battery? It is OEM, so maybe it's time to replace it. Any other troubleshooting ideas you recommend? Bear in mind, I'm not the most mechanically inclined person in the world.
Thanks,
Chris
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Thanks for the input Brian. I'll check those connections this afternoon and see what I can find.
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:popcorn:
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Once again I learn something from Brian. I did not realize that kipass could not affect the bike when it is running - good to know if I ever run into a similar situation.
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Yeah, KiPass has become such a big thing that I think some people believe it controls the phases of the moon :-) KiPass's job is to authenticate a valid fob and ALLOW the starting sequence to BEGIN and that is all. The chain of events is that the KiPass ECU sends an 'okdokey' to the main ECU and then KiPass is done with the entire bike save the display unit. Even if you leave the fob on the ground when you started the bike and drove away the only thing that can happen, while the bike is running, is that the display will display 'Transponder Error'.
The reason for all of this is simple: common sense and liability. It would be disastrous to have any part of the bike stop the engine for any reason on its own without the operator's involvement. I mean, what if our bikes simply stopped running in the middle of a long curve, well leaned over, because the temperature was too high as judged by the ECU? No one would make a vehicle like that, including Kawasaki. KiPass (or anything else on the bike such as low fuel, too high a temperature, no oil, etc.) cannot stop the bike. The worst case scenario is no oil pressure which will result at some point in an engine seizure but again, that fault will NOT stop a running bike, only alert the rider; it is up to the rider to stop the bike when safe to do so.
I really do believe Chris's problem (Burbs) has nothing to do with KiPass but rather is a simple electrical fault, given his description (starting with the bike stalled....). The message 'Transponder Error' was just one more of the symptoms of the underlying and basic problem, which I believe is a central electrical fault and most probably a simple one at that.
Brian
Once again I learn something from Brian. I did not realize that kipass could not affect the bike when it is running - good to know if I ever run into a similar situation.
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Great idea- I believe you have shown us a divinig rod that will point out the problem? That would really help diagnosing problems around the bike.
Seeing as Chris said the bike died, and KiPass has absolutely no ability to stop a running bike, I know you didn't mean that a conventional key would solve his current problem.... ;)
Brian
Yep, just playing. I figure a loose connection somewhere. Even KIPASS needs power. :finger_fing11:
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Burb's....Be sure and let us know when you find a solution........2 1/2 years and not a problem with my 2011....gotta luv this machine.
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Check your battery. Mine was weak and if I tried to start the bike while in gear it would throw the imobilizer code. Replaced the battery and have had no further problems.
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KiPass <---such mad pow-ah that is is suspected of EVERYTHING :finger_fing11:
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All hail KIPASS!
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Here's what the negative connector looks like and the inside of the batter compartment. I'm going to pick up a voltage meter now and test the battery.
(http://i388.photobucket.com/albums/oo324/CJBurbank/Battery2.jpg) (http://s388.photobucket.com/user/CJBurbank/media/Battery2.jpg.html)
(http://i388.photobucket.com/albums/oo324/CJBurbank/Battery1.jpg) (http://s388.photobucket.com/user/CJBurbank/media/Battery1.jpg.html)
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Here's what the negative connector looks like and the inside of the batter compartment. I'm going to pick up a voltage meter now and test the battery.
You might have found the problem (and seems to be a common one). The corrosion can and will cause problems and that should be your first test- clean it well with baking soda and such and then retighten.
Keep in mind that a volt meter is not really going to tell you if you have a problem with the battery. With no load on the battery, it might conduct fine and put out normal voltage, but under load, it might lower.
You need to put the year of your bike in your avatar message or signature: http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=8275.0 (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=8275.0)
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Fixed it up for ya' Steve.
Brian
KiPass <---such mad pow-ah that is is suspected the root cause of EVERYTHING :finger_fing11:
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Yep, that looks like your KiPass problem right there.... :-)
As Max said, a bit of baking soda and a rinse, and a bit of grease smeared around / under / all over both battery terminals will prevent it from happening again. Also, check, clean, grease and tighten the ground cable connection where it connects to the frame, just to the immediate right of the battery box- they often corrode also and you might as well fix up ALL the KiPass problems while you have the battery cover off. ;) ;D
Brian
Here's what the negative connector looks like and the inside of the batter compartment. I'm going to pick up a voltage meter now and test the battery.
(http://i388.photobucket.com/albums/oo324/CJBurbank/Battery2.jpg) (http://s388.photobucket.com/user/CJBurbank/media/Battery2.jpg.html)
(http://i388.photobucket.com/albums/oo324/CJBurbank/Battery1.jpg) (http://s388.photobucket.com/user/CJBurbank/media/Battery1.jpg.html)
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HA HA HA!!!!!!!
(http://www.neverland-motor.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/_/m/_mg_7154.jpg)
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What is that?
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Two questions:
1) What kind of grease?
2) What will the baking soda do?
I did charge the battery last night and hopefully after I clean the terminals, this solves the issue.
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My father-in-law slathered his with chassis grease but I don't use any and have never had an issue with corrosion on my bike. The baking soda neutralizes the battery acid.
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As a sealant around electrical contacts:
Dielectric grease
Dielectric grease is electrically insulating and does not break down when high voltage is applied. It is often applied to electrical connectors, particularly those containing rubber gaskets, as a means of lubricating and sealing rubber portions of the connector without arcing.
A common use of dielectric grease is in high-voltage connections associated with gasoline engine spark plugs. The grease is applied to the rubber boot of the plug wire. This helps the rubber boot slide onto the ceramic insulator of the plug. The grease also acts to seal the rubber boot, while at the same time preventing the rubber from becoming stuck to the ceramic. Generally spark plugs are located in areas of high temperature, and the grease is formulated to withstand the temperature range expected. It can be applied to the actual contact as well, because the contact pressure is sufficient to penetrate the grease. Doing so on such high pressure contact surfaces has the advantage of sealing the contact area against corrosion.
Another common use of dielectric grease is on the rubber mating surfaces or gaskets of multi-pin electrical connectors used in automotive and marine engines. The grease again acts as a lubricant and a sealant on the nonconductive mating surfaces of the connector. It is not recommended to be applied to the actual electrical conductive contacts of the connector because it could interfere with the electrical signals passing through the connector in cases where the contact pressure is very low. Products designed as electronic connector lubricants, on the other hand, should be applied to such connector contacts and can dramatically extend their useful life. Polyphenyl Ether, rather than silicone grease, is the active ingredient in some such connector lubricants.
Silicone grease should not be applied to (or next to) any switch contact that might experience arcing, as silicone can convert to silicon-carbide under arcing conditions, and accumulation of the silicon-carbide can cause the contacts to prematurely fail. (British Telecom had this problem in the 1970s when silicone Symel® sleeving was used in telephone exchanges. Vapour from the sleeving migrated to relay contacts and the resultant silicon-carbide caused intermittent connection.)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silicone_grease#Dielectric_grease (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silicone_grease#Dielectric_grease)
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Brian, are you saying that Kipass can cause low oil pressure and seize the engine? :yikes: ;)
People REALLY should RTFM!!!
Yeah, KiPass has become such a big thing that I think some people believe it controls the phases of the moon :-) KiPass's job is to authenticate a valid fob and ALLOW the starting sequence to BEGIN and that is all. The chain of events is that the KiPass ECU sends an 'okdokey' to the main ECU and then KiPass is done with the entire bike save the display unit. Even if you leave the fob on the ground when you started the bike and drove away the only thing that can happen, while the bike is running, is that the display will display 'Transponder Error'.
The reason for all of this is simple: common sense and liability. It would be disastrous to have any part of the bike stop the engine for any reason on its own without the operator's involvement. I mean, what if our bikes simply stopped running in the middle of a long curve, well leaned over, because the temperature was too high as judged by the ECU? No one would make a vehicle like that, including Kawasaki. KiPass (or anything else on the bike such as low fuel, too high a temperature, no oil, etc.) cannot stop the bike. The worst case scenario is no oil pressure which will result at some point in an engine seizure but again, that fault will NOT stop a running bike, only alert the rider; it is up to the rider to stop the bike when safe to do so.
I really do believe Chris's problem (Burbs) has nothing to do with KiPass but rather is a simple electrical fault, given his description (starting with the bike stalled....). The message 'Transponder Error' was just one more of the symptoms of the underlying and basic problem, which I believe is a central electrical fault and most probably a simple one at that.
Brian
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I changed the title of thread since I was completely wrong and accused KIPASS of something that wasn't it's fault. ::)
I've never heard of the baking soda mix, so I'll try that this afternoon. After looking inside the battery compartment, everything looks connected to me, so hopefully the battery is the issue.
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I've never heard of the baking soda mix, so I'll try that this afternoon.
Baking soda will neutralize the acids in the white corrosion.
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everything looks connected to me
Looks can be deceiving.
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Once you get it cleaned up be sure to rinse really well with water.
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Baking soda will remove and neutralize the corrosion (chemical reaction- baking soda is a mild alkaline or base).
Any kind of grease other than graphite or moly grease. Chassis grease, wheel bearing grease, Vaseline, whatever. Grease just keeps the oxygen away from the battery posts. You can also buy special purpose battery post protecting potions at the auto parts store and most of them work fine too.
Brian
Two questions:
1) What kind of grease?
2) What will the baking soda do?
I did charge the battery last night and hopefully after I clean the terminals, this solves the issue.
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I have heard that KiPass can seize the engines in the cars that get too close to a C-14.
Brian
Brian, are you saying that Kipass can cause low oil pressure and seize the engine? :yikes: ;)
People REALLY should RTFM!!!
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Once you get it cleaned up be sure to rinse really well with water.
I was taught to use boiling water from the kettle, and always have, what the thinking is behind this I don't know
Richard
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I was taught to use boiling water from the kettle, and always have, what the thinking is behind this I don't know
Richard
That makes two of us...
I would never use water that hot on my bike but that's just me.
The baking soda, as explained by Brian, is the way to go.
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The use of baking soda to clean battery posts will require a small bit of water. I use tap water from a spray bottle. It creats quite a mess, and should be done out of doors, or at least in an area where the resulting mess can be contained and cleaned up. For those not familiar, a water/baking soda mix applied to battery corrosion creats a reaction similar to what we all did as kids: mixing baking soda and vinegar. An even more impressive reaction is mixing Mentos monts with a diet drink.
On another note, a failing battery can cause all sorts of strange side effects. My Ford F-150 heater would not work. Only blew cold air. A new battery fixed it. Apparently there was insufficient voltage to power the computer that controls the HVAC blend mix device.
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Finally, I was able to put the battery back in the bike today after cleaning the terminals and still nothing. I did have the battery tested and the voltage came back at 12.66v but the CCA was 66. From what I've read, that low CCA isn't good.
Time for a new battery I'm guessing?
-Chris
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What is the battery rated for new (it is printed on the battery, or should be)? I think they are only rated for something like 80 CCA new and some deterioration of that value is expected adn acceptable. That does not sound that low to me. Then again, I tend to run batteries until they show signs of weakening such as slow cranking, not holding a charge if left standing a while (weeks), etc., before I change them. Of course doing that exposes me to the risk of having a bad battery leaving me somewhere but that has not happened, at least not yet.
The corroded and / or loose battery terminals are not in any way related to a 'bad' battery. If that 12.66 is resting voltage (not just coming off a charge) then I would forge ahead with that battery until it had symptoms as mentioned above.
Besides all of that, I have heard that one cannot be stranded on a bike equipped with KiPass. Not sure that that is true but I think I heard it somewhere.... ;)
Brian
Finally, I was able to put the battery back in the bike today after cleaning the terminals and still nothing. I did have the battery tested and the voltage came back at 12.66v but the CCA was 66. From what I've read, that low CCA isn't good.
Time for a new battery I'm guessing?
-Chris
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So if it's not the battery, then what could it be, the little ignition spring? But would that fail while I was riding? Like I said, I was coming up to a stop sign when all of a sudden the bike just died.
As for the CCA, I see that Yuasa is rated for 240, which is why I initially thought that could be the issue.
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What is that?
Something called a "key" I am pretty fond of it. ;)
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I would try charging it first if you can and then if it doesn't start the bike it's new battery time...
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That makes two of us...
I would never use water that hot on my bike but that's just me.
The baking soda, as explained by Brian, is the way to go.
Putting water on a bike. What a strange concept.
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Bad battery connections. That corrosion is caused by current passing through a large- resistance connection- indicating a lousy connection. I thought you had mentioned that they (it?) were loose as well.
By the ignition spring, I believe you mean the spring under the ignition switch that we press down to 'wake up' the bike? It is not possible that that or any other part of KiPass could have caused the bike to stall. No part of KiPass can interfere with an already running motorcycle. Again, I believe it was a poor battery cable connection.
At any rate, even a bad battery, which I do not think you have, would cause the bike to stall either. At least not a battery that would later show a resting voltage as high as yours did.
Clean and tighten both battery connections, clean and tighten the negative battery- to- frame connection and I believe you will be all set. There are no other problems that I am aware of given the description of the symptoms, the battery connections (and associated serious corrosion), photos and battery testing results.
I am amazed that the factory battery is rated that high in CCA! To be honest, I would be amazed to see one actually put out even half of that new, never mind used. At any rate, if the battery is still turning the engine over as fast as it did new then I would keep using it until it showed symptoms. Just my opinion though and a lot of people change batteries out earlier than I would so it is an individual choice. But I would LOVE to see a CCA test done on a new motorcycle battery to see if the actual test showed anything even close to that number.
Brian
So if it's not the battery, then what could it be, the little ignition spring? But would that fail while I was riding? Like I said, I was coming up to a stop sign when all of a sudden the bike just died.
As for the CCA, I see that Yuasa is rated for 240, which is why I initially thought that could be the issue.
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Finally, I was able to put the battery back in the bike today after cleaning the terminals and still nothing. I did have the battery tested and the voltage came back at 12.66v but the CCA was 66. From what I've read, that low CCA isn't good.
Time for a new battery I'm guessing?
-Chris
When you said 'and still nothing' are you saying that the bike won't start and/or turn over at all?
Did you check and clean the connections on the other end of the battery cables?
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Finally, I was able to put the battery back in the bike today after cleaning the terminals and still nothing.
What do you mean by "still nothing"?
As for the CCA, I see that Yuasa is rated for 240, which is why I initially thought that could be the issue.
Knowing how old the battery is would be helpful in some of the troubleshooting, but you still have not put the year of your bike in your avatar message or signature: http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=8275.0 (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=8275.0)
It could be 5 years old or 2 months old.... who knows.
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Wait- I missed the 'still nothing' part: what do you mean? The bike won't react when you push down the key? You could have the infamous stuck KiPass activation switch problem but that would not have caused the bike to stall in the first place.
Let's back up a bit.... when the bike stalled, it did restart, didn't it? I was under the impression it restarted. If it restarted, when did it fail to start? I am afraid that I am not following the timeline of what has happened to you. Strike what I said a couple of posts ago, I thought you were in a very differrent circumstance than I now think you are. Could you give us a brief but incident specific outline of what happened? Something like:
Coming to a stop the bike stalled.
Then what- did it restart? Did you have it towed? ??
Would the bike work before you removed the battery?
If not, when did it fail again (if you did not have it towed)?
Glad to help but I am just not following what happened.
Brian
Finally, I was able to put the battery back in the bike today after cleaning the terminals and still nothing. I did have the battery tested and the voltage came back at 12.66v but the CCA was 66. From what I've read, that low CCA isn't good.
Time for a new battery I'm guessing?
-Chris
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a failing battery can cause all sorts of strange side effects."
Amen to that :o
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Replace the battery.
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Replace the battery.
Which one exactly Jim? :stirpot:
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What do you mean by "still nothing"?
Knowing how old the battery is would be helpful in some of the troubleshooting, but you still have not put the year of your bike in your avatar message or signature: http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=8275.0 (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=8275.0)
It could be 5 years old or 2 months old.... who knows.
Sorry about that. I have a 2009 ABS model.
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Sorry about that. I have a 2009 ABS model.
Replace the battery.
Do it.
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Wait- I missed the 'still nothing' part: what do you mean? The bike won't react when you push down the key? You could have the infamous stuck KiPass activation switch problem but that would not have caused the bike to stall in the first place.
Let's back up a bit.... when the bike stalled, it did restart, didn't it? I was under the impression it restarted. If it restarted, when did it fail to start? I am afraid that I am not following the timeline of what has happened to you. Strike what I said a couple of posts ago, I thought you were in a very differrent circumstance than I now think you are. Could you give us a brief but incident specific outline of what happened? Something like:
Coming to a stop the bike stalled.
Then what- did it restart? Did you have it towed? ??
Would the bike work before you removed the battery?
If not, when did it fail again (if you did not have it towed)?
Glad to help but I am just not following what happened.
Brian
I'll break down what happened and what troubleshooting methods I've done.
Bike Breakdown Incident
We were riding and were approaching a stop sign
As I was braking, the bike all of a sudden died. All the gauges and lights shut down and the engine was killed. We glided to the stop sign.
I brought the bike to a stop and pushed the knob down
The "immobilizer error" message appeared on my screen
Neighbor came to pick up my wife, but she went to CVS to get me another FOB battery, in case it was dead. The new battery didn't work
The bike was towed to my house...after waiting almost three hours mind you!!!
When I arrived home, I had my wife bring out the other FOB
I pushed the knob down and it made the "clicking" sound, the lights came on and I was able to turn the knob
As I went to push the starter, the lights and gauges turned off again and the "immobilizer error" came on again. I couldn't start the bike
The red light now blinks when I push the button down and the "immobilizer error" does not appear anymore, with either FOB
Troubleshooting Methods So Far
Looked at the wiring inside the battery box area to see if there was any loose connections, there wasn't
Looked under the seat at the ECU to see if there were any loose connections, there wasn't
Removed the battery, put it on the trickle charge overnight
Cleaned the battery terminals
Looked at the ground wire, but it wasn't corroded and it was tight
Reconnected the battery, made sure everything was tight and tried the bike again.
No error message, just the blinking red light. The knob does not turn nor make the clicking sound
After speaking to my dealer, I proceeded to connect my car battery to the bikes battery, but did not have the car running. Still no power, just the red light
Banged on the ignition box area to see if I could "nudge" the spring, but this did not work
Had the battery tested and found out that the CCA was 66 and the voltage was 12.66v
Posted message on the forum again ;)
So this is where I am at right now. I'm now wondering if I should get a new battery.
I hope this helps, if you need anymore information, please let me know. I really appreciate everyone helping me here.
-Chris
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Chris, not trying to be difficult but you have four pages and fifty replies from folks trying to help. The majority of those replies suggest a new battery may well be in order. You have a battery that is at least five years old. That's a good run for any motorcycle battery. You've been without a bike since this happened more than a week ago. Why don't you humor all who are trying to help and get a new battery? Until that's done, I'm not sure what else we can do here. Good luck.
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Great outline Chris. Here is what I think and why:
1) You had a main power interruption first (at the stop sign). Because the engine stopped running and all lights went out, main power was interrupted to the bike, specifically from the battery to the power distribution areas, which are all the fuse boxes basically.
The interruption is not complete though and this is why you could re-activate the system. So the main power interruption is intermittent and would appear to be dependent on heavy current draw because the bike will power up fine (low current usage) but when you hit the starter button all power is lost (heavy current usage).
2) For the moment, let's ignore the 'Transponder Error' and chalk it up to a 'confused' ECU due to the sharp power outage and abrupt re- powering of the system by the intermittent connection. I think that that is not a problem here but either way, the main problem is that loose / open / bad / <mostly bad> connection somewhere. It is also possible that you have a bad battery but I would test that before chucking it (test it in the bike while trying to start it).
So what you have is basically a bike that cannot get enough current when trying to start it but does get enough current to 'power up', light the LCD, operate the ECU's, etc. The first thing to determine is if the problem is battery or wiring based. An easy test using a voltmeter on the battery: connect the voltmeter and watch it while powering the bike up. Then hit the starter and watch the voltage- if it drops below approx. 8 volts, the battery is shot and needs to be replaced. If the voltage does not move much (less than 2 volts from where it was before engaging the starter), there is a partially open circuit somewhere between the battery and the bike, most likely around the solenoid / main fuse area.
You could just replace the battery and use that as the test of course. If the battery is more than 4 years old that would not be a terrible thing anyway. But without prior testing you cannot be sure that is your problem.
It would be most useful to know what the battery's voltage dropped to during the load test; again, if it was below 9 and especially if it was below 8 volts, time to chuck the battery.
Brian
I'll break down what happened and what troubleshooting methods I've done.
Bike Breakdown Incident
We were riding and were approaching a stop sign
As I was braking, the bike all of a sudden died. All the gauges and lights shut down and the engine was killed. We glided to the stop sign.
I brought the bike to a stop and pushed the knob down
The "immobilizer error" message appeared on my screen
Neighbor came to pick up my wife, but she went to CVS to get me another FOB battery, in case it was dead. The new battery didn't work
The bike was towed to my house...after waiting almost three hours mind you!!!
When I arrived home, I had my wife bring out the other FOB
I pushed the knob down and it made the "clicking" sound, the lights came on and I was able to turn the knob
As I went to push the starter, the lights and gauges turned off again and the "immobilizer error" came on again. I couldn't start the bike
The red light now blinks when I push the button down and the "immobilizer error" does not appear anymore, with either FOB
Troubleshooting Methods So Far
Looked at the wiring inside the battery box area to see if there was any loose connections, there wasn't
Looked under the seat at the ECU to see if there were any loose connections, there wasn't
Removed the battery, put it on the trickle charge overnight
Cleaned the battery terminals
Looked at the ground wire, but it wasn't corroded and it was tight
Reconnected the battery, made sure everything was tight and tried the bike again.
No error message, just the blinking red light. The knob does not turn nor make the clicking sound
After speaking to my dealer, I proceeded to connect my car battery to the bikes battery, but did not have the car running. Still no power, just the red light
Banged on the ignition box area to see if I could "nudge" the spring, but this did not work
Had the battery tested and found out that the CCA was 66 and the voltage was 12.66v
Posted message on the forum again ;)
So this is where I am at right now. I'm now wondering if I should get a new battery.
I hope this helps, if you need anymore information, please let me know. I really appreciate everyone helping me here.
-Chris
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Replace the battery.
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...sigh...
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I am totally stoked knowing that there is such a responsive information base and great advice should I ever have a problem. Well done guys.
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Chris, not trying to be difficult but you have four pages and fifty replies from folks trying to help. The majority of those replies suggest a new battery may well be in order. You have a battery that is at least five years old. That's a good run for any motorcycle battery. You've been without a bike since this happened more than a week ago. Why don't you humor all who are trying to help and get a new battery? Until that's done, I'm not sure what else we can do here. Good luck.
I understand that people are saying to replace the battery, which I am planning to do today. However, Brian and others have asked questions and I am providing the details.
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Too many questions, not enough action. Battery is old, replace it anyway. They're not that expensive in the general scheme of things. 5 years on a MC battery is pushing it. I replaced mine at 3 just because. I will say I had a battery go 5 years on my C10 but I replaced it because I didn't want to stuck somewhere I didn't want to be.
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Yes, and thanks for that. Always better to understand what is going on I think.
And for whatever reason, I have been a bit slow on this thread. I failed to notice the 'still nothing' in your post and did not realize that you have a 5 year old battery. My apologies- reading compression has obviously failed me here. So yep, what the others said- new battery time.
And to you other folks, chill- ax. Save up that adrenaline in case you need it later for something like running away from a fire or something. ;D We'll get to the bottom of this one even if I am being obtuse....
Brian
I understand that people are saying to replace the battery, which I am planning to do today. However, Brian and others have asked questions and I am providing the details.
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Never confuse motion with progress. Besides, applying a general rule like 'it's old, replace it' would have most of us gone by the end of the day. And shouldn't you be sitting next to your mailbox waiting for the envelope with the tire in it anyway?
;)
Brian
Too many questions, not enough action. Battery is old, replace it anyway.
<snip>
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What makes you think I'm not? ;)
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Yes, and thanks for that. Always better to understand what is going on I think.
And for whatever reason, I have been a bit slow on this thread. I failed to notice the 'still nothing' in your post and did not realize that you have a 5 year old battery. My apologies- reading compression has obviously failed me here. So yep, what the others said- new battery time.
And to you other folks, chill- ax. Save up that adrenaline in case you need it later for something like running away from a fire or something having to push your C14 home. ;D We'll get to the bottom of this one even if I am being obtuse....
Brian
FIFY
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Nah, KiPass makes C-14's unstrandable.
Brian
FIFY
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Picked up a new battery and is being charged. Hopefully this will work tonight.
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OK, don't get nervous but about 10,000 people are watching and waiting....
;D
Brian
Picked up a new battery and is being charged. Hopefully this will work tonight.
-
Nah, KiPass makes C-14's unstrandable.
Brian
All hail KIPASS!
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OK, don't get nervous but about 10,000 people are watching and waiting....
;D
Brian
And not because they are curious about a solution. They are watching because they are tired of this thread!!! Don't blame them either!!
;D ;D ;D
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Nah, most of them are watching like they watch the Miss America pageant- in the hopes of seeing someone 'step in it' in some form or another. Everyone is waiting for the report of exactly where the smoke gets out of your bike during these electrical experiments.....
All in jest, really I expect it will go fine. I mean the battery will even install backwards without a problem, Kawasaki has done it on dozens of bikes apparently.
Brian
And not because they are curious about a solution. They are watching because they are tired of this thread!!! Don't blame them either!!
;D ;D ;D
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No, we're not tired. We're just getting warmed up! ;D
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Replace the battery.
+1
Now that we know how old it is, it would be an excellent first step. It might not be the battery causing the problem, but it might be time for one anyway, and it certainly can't hurt. DO THIS FIRST.
After that....
However, the fact that the red light is now blinking and it does not "wake up" when you press the ignition key knob tends to point to:
1) The dreaded ignition wakeup switch (and you have a gen 1 bike which is more prone to that) (there are procedures elsewhere in this forum to test for that condition... maybe even a rock:) ).
2) Or a totally defective active Fob- which you can quickly eliminate that by attempted to use it passively by placing it correctly on the ignition area (SEE USER MANUAL), waiting 10 seconds, and pressing the knob to see if it wakes up.
3) Something far more serious with your electronics on the bike (blown ECU, bad connector, cut wire, etc). Let's save that thought as a last resort, because this would be quite rare. You have plenty of other homework first.
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It has been almost an hour, shouldn't someone tell Chris to change the battery?
OK, I'll do it myself- Hey Chris! Put a new battery in that bike!
;D
Brian
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It has been almost an hour, shouldn't someone tell Chris to change the battery?
OK, I'll do it myself- Hey Chris! Put a new battery in that bike!
;D
Brian
I'm sitting here and the new battery didnt fix it. I checked the connections and they are all good. The gauge needles did their back and forth cycle (dont know the term) and still nothing. I'm now going to do the FOB trick that was mentioned above. I'm on my iPhone so I can't see it while posting this.
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I'm sitting here and the new battery didnt fix it. I checked the connections and they are all good. The gauge needles did their back and forth cycle (dont know the term) and still nothing. I'm now going to do the FOB trick that was mentioned above. I'm on my iPhone so I can't see it while posting this.
You are confusing us (or at least me) again. If the needles (speedometer and odometer) on the dash went back and forth, that is not nothing- it doesn't do that until you move the ignition knob/key from off to on, which occurs after you press it down and it clicks and lights up the screen. That is most certainly something.
And that does not fit the description you gave earlier where you said it did *NOTHING* except the red light blinking...
????
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Welp...the battery and the ignition trick did not work. As for the needles moving, correct me if I'm wrong, but the needles do move once the negative is connected, at least that is what mine does. I didnt touch the knob at all, it happened when the battery is fully connected. The red light does blink when I push the knob down still and I am not getting that clicking sound nor is the dash lighting up.
I'm far too aggravated with this and I am having it towed to my dealer tomorrow to get this figured out once and for all. You guys have been so patient with me and have been great in helping me trying to figure this out. I am grateful for that.
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First of all, yep, the needles on the gauges calibrate (move all the way clockwise to the stop, then counterclockwise to the zero position) when power is applied. So clearly you have a charge in the battery, the ECU is powering up and the bike is doing its 'power- up' thing. After that, I assume nothing is happening when you press the key down but that is more difficult to troubleshoot than just replacing the battery.
As far as the frustration goes, I understand completely. We all have different levels of ability in different areas and different levels of annoyance in different areas. You are a bit out of your element here and it IS frustrating when the path forward is not clear. Besides all of that, from here on out it will begin to take more deliberate troubleshooting along with more and more complicated tools, which you may not have. So I do not think it is foolish or too soon to call in professional help in these types of circumstances. Unfortunately it will cost something certainly but at least there is an expectation of progress, which is a good thing in itself I think. So again, the best of luck and by all means let us know how it goes from here. Also, of course ask any questions you may have along the way; even if a dealer says something, it is not always accurate and more opinions may help you figure out what to do next.
When this is all over, you may have to change the title of this thread back to what it was originally.... ???
Brian
Welp...the battery and the ignition trick did not work. As for the needles moving, correct me if I'm wrong, but the needles do move once the negative is connected, at least that is what mine does. I didnt touch the knob at all, it happened when the battery is fully connected. The red light does blink when I push the knob down still and I am not getting that clicking sound nor is the dash lighting up.
I'm far too aggravated with this and I am having it towed to my dealer tomorrow to get this figured out once and for all. You guys have been so patient with me and have been great in helping me trying to figure this out. I am grateful for that.
-
The K-rock is an important tool to keep onboard.
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Really? A rock? Isn't there something better than A ROCK? ;) ;D
Brian
The K-rock is an important tool to keep onboard.
-
The K-rock is an important tool to keep onboard.
That's just about enough......Bob.
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Yeah, he IS the number one twit....
:rotflmao:
Brian
That's just about enough......Bob.
-
That's just about enough......Bob.
KIPASS never once failed me or malfunctioned "ever" can't complain.
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Well, I carry a silver hammer just in case...
Hammer in the morning
Hammer in the evening
Don't carry a bell, but if I did...
I'd ring it in the morning
I'd ring it in the evening
Ain't much on singing but if I could sing...
I'd sing in the morning
I'd sing in the evening
All over this land....
And this, members, is what happens when I drink not one, but two beers... Also, just solved a communications issue between an i and a z that I've been working on since Saturday. I'm positively psychotic at the moment, ;D and :censored: :nuts: :loco: .
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After reading this thread, I've just realized something.....I really miss Haroldo! :'(
-
OFFTOPIC: <although I promise it won't go downhill....>
I heard from Haraldo a couple of weeks ago. Seems a friend of his bought a C-14 and was planning a long trip WHEN SUDDENLY the bike would not start or react in any way when the key was pressed down. We all know what caused that and the guy is all spiffed up but the point of the story is Haraldo is alive and well and still sounds just like Haraldo. :) Just thought I would pass that along to Haroldo lovers everywhere (yeah, that's what I meant to say).
Haraldo has a FANTASTIC Triumph crash bar story but I do not feel at liberty to pass that along. Suffice it to say that as long as Haroldo is around the world will not be boring, at least not in his corner of the world.... or even close by. ;D
Brian
After reading this thread, I've just realized something.....I really miss Haroldo! :'(
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Thx for the update,Brian! I will sleep much better tonight! ;D
By the way, Haroldo seems to listen to you well.....please ask him to check in with us from time to time!
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First of all, yep, the needles on the gauges calibrate (move all the way clockwise to the stop, then counterclockwise to the zero position) when power is applied.
OK, that's good. I thought it was the sequence it goes through when the ignition is turned on...
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I'm sitting here and the new battery didnt fix it. I checked the connections and they are all good. The gauge needles did their back and forth cycle (dont know the term) and still nothing. I'm now going to do the FOB trick that was mentioned above. I'm on my iPhone so I can't see it while posting this.
:banghead:
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Yeah, he IS the number one twit....
:rotflmao:
Brian
One Twit to rule them all, One Twit to find them,
One Twit to bring them all and in the darkness bind them.
Twits Unite!
-
Welp...I had the tow truck here ready to bring the bike down to my dealer. I had both FOB's in hand, to put inside the glove box. I figured, for :censored: and giggles, I'd try it one more time...WHADDYA KNOW...SHE STARTED RIGHT UP!!! :o
So I decided to separate the two FOB's and test them out. One did work and the other did not work. But odd thing is, both of them didn't work last night, but now one does? :banghead: So right now the bike is running and I am going to head down to my dealer tomorrow with the FOB that doesn't work and see what happens. To say that I am annoyed...and somewhat embarrassed is an understatement! >:( :-[
Of course, with my luck, I'll try to start it tomorrow and it won't start!!! :shoot:
AGAIN, thank you all for helping me out. Time for a drink!
-Chris
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Excellent! There's always time for a drink. :chugbeer: Thanks for the entertainment, by the way. Good job.
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Excellent! There's always time for a drink. :chugbeer: Thanks for the entertainment, by the way. Good job.
Did somebody say beer? I'll join ya ;D :chugbeer:
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Your very first post in this thread mentions the bike would 'not work' with the fob you had but 'started to work' with the other fob. ???
The plot thickens....
Brian
Welp...I had the tow truck here ready to bring the bike down to my dealer. I had both FOB's in hand, to put inside the glove box. I figured, for :censored: and giggles, I'd try it one more time...WHADDYA KNOW...SHE STARTED RIGHT UP!!! :o
So I decided to separate the two FOB's and test them out. One did work and the other did not work. But odd thing is, both of them didn't work last night, but now one does? :banghead: So right now the bike is running and I am going to head down to my dealer tomorrow with the FOB that doesn't work and see what happens. To say that I am annoyed...and somewhat embarrassed is an understatement! >:( :-[
Of course, with my luck, I'll try to start it tomorrow and it won't start!!! :shoot:
AGAIN, thank you all for helping me out. Time for a drink!
-Chris
-
:rotflmao: It usually does, Brian.
-
I once again present to you the key.
(http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a468/RCRide/Misc%20Images/keytohappiness.jpg)
:thumbs:
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Your very first post in this thread mentions the bike would 'not work' with the fob you had but 'started to work' with the other fob. ???
And I still see no response at all to my suggestion a long time ago to try it passively. I will quote, again, what I said:
"2) Or a totally defective active Fob- which you can quickly eliminate that by attempting to use it passively by placing it correctly on the ignition area (SEE USER MANUAL), waiting 10 seconds, and pressing the knob to see if it wakes up."
-
And I still see no response at all to my suggestion a long time ago to try it passively. I will quote, again, what I said:
"2) Or a totally defective active Fob- which you can quickly eliminate that by attempting to use it passively by placing it correctly on the ignition area (SEE USER MANUAL), waiting 10 seconds, and pressing the knob to see if it wakes up."
Yeah I suggested that in my first post as well, okay my second post, but it was my first real post and the first post with any suggestions.
-
'I was first!' 'No, I was first!' 'Tastes great!' 'Less filling!'
Youse guys crack me up. :D
Now for the 'Just buy a battery you idiot' people to chime in....
:rotflmao:
Ya' gotta' love over the Internet 'what is wrong with my (motorcycle, washing machine, colon)' diagnosis and repair. Soon we should all have video so we can say 'It is right there, right by your foot!' in unison.
Brian (who recommended more testing before replacing the battery but I won't mention that....)
And I still see no response at all to my suggestion a long time ago to try it passively. I will quote, again, what I said:
"2) Or a totally defective active Fob- which you can quickly eliminate that by attempting to use it passively by placing it correctly on the ignition area (SEE USER MANUAL), waiting 10 seconds, and pressing the knob to see if it wakes up."
Yeah I suggested that in my first post as well, okay my second post, but it was my first real post and the first post with any suggestions.
-
'I was first!' 'No, I was first!' 'Tastes great!' 'Less filling!'
Youse guys crack me up. :D
Now for the 'Just buy a battery you idiot' people to chime in....
:rotflmao:
Ya' gotta' love over the Internet 'what is wrong with my (motorcycle, washing machine, colon)' diagnosis and repair. Soon we should all have video so we can say 'It is right there, right by your foot!' in unison.
Brian (who recommended more testing before replacing the battery but I won't mention that....)
:finger_fing11: :rotflmao:
-
Replace the battery. Oh wait, I guess he did, but it had 5 years on it and that's 90 in people years.
-
As far as the frustration goes, I understand completely. We all have different levels of ability in different areas and different levels of annoyance in different areas. You are a bit out of your element here and it IS frustrating when the path forward is not clear. Besides all of that, from here on out it will begin to take more deliberate troubleshooting along with more and more complicated tools, which you may not have. So I do not think it is foolish or too soon to call in professional help in these types of circumstances. Unfortunately it will cost something certainly but at least there is an expectation of progress, which is a good thing in itself I think. So again, the best of luck and by all means let us know how it goes from here. Also, of course ask any questions you may have along the way; even if a dealer says something, it is not always accurate and more opinions may help you figure out what to do next.
Brian
You're a wise man, Brian :hail:
-
And I still see no response at all to my suggestion a long time ago to try it passively. I will quote, again, what I said:
"2) Or a totally defective active Fob- which you can quickly eliminate that by attempting to use it passively by placing it correctly on the ignition area (SEE USER MANUAL), waiting 10 seconds, and pressing the knob to see if it wakes up."
What is this User Manual you speak of? ;)
-
Hey Chris, whadda' ya' doin' with dat bike? Off to the dealer? Beat it to death with a fob? Pray to the KiPass gods that it starts?
Really, let us know how this goes.
Brian
-
I'm having trouble sleeping at night without knowing the outcome. :'(
-
I'm having trouble sleeping at night without knowing the outcome. :'(
Take two fobs and call me in the morning.
-
Well, crap!
I just read thru 7 pages of posting on this thread, and still don't know what happened. Was it the guy on the grassy knoll?
-
Possibly...
-
Take two fobs and call me in the morning.
:rotflmao:
-
How'd ya' make out Chris? ?? Did you have that drink? Still drinking....?
;D
Brian
Welp...I had the tow truck here ready to bring the bike down to my dealer. I had both FOB's in hand, to put inside the glove box. I figured, for :censored: and giggles, I'd try it one more time...WHADDYA KNOW...SHE STARTED RIGHT UP!!! :o
So I decided to separate the two FOB's and test them out. One did work and the other did not work. But odd thing is, both of them didn't work last night, but now one does? :banghead: So right now the bike is running and I am going to head down to my dealer tomorrow with the FOB that doesn't work and see what happens. To say that I am annoyed...and somewhat embarrassed is an understatement! >:( :-[
Of course, with my luck, I'll try to start it tomorrow and it won't start!!! :shoot:
AGAIN, thank you all for helping me out. Time for a drink!
-Chris
-
Hey gang, read all this thread and no freaking answer on what happened? Geez. Does that sound like the spring issue fixed on newer bikes (with a stronger one)? Just curious.
And I take the opportunity to post this related Youtube video I found to see if there's any benefit on doing that. And/or to make people aware if can be done. Apparently some folks tried to replicate that with no success (see comment section). Comments welcome.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FdaFCRSicGM (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FdaFCRSicGM)
-
Hey gang, read all this thread and no freaking answer on what happened? Geez.
:) Don't you hate a cliff hangar? Almost as bad as these TV series know where the "season" is over and you have to wait an entire YEAR before it airs again.
And I take the opportunity to post this related Youtube video I found to see if there's any benefit on doing that. And/or to make people aware if can be done. Apparently some folks tried to replicate that with no success (see comment section). Comments welcome.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FdaFCRSicGM (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FdaFCRSicGM)
We had threads elsewhere on that- mostly hardware stores that fail to clone the key. As long as you have two "keys" (which you get with the bike) you should be fine. Of course, if you lose one, then you will want to seek out having another spare.
-
Hey gang, read all this thread and no freaking answer on what happened? Geez. Does that sound like the spring issue fixed on newer bikes (with a stronger one)? Just curious.
And I take the opportunity to post this related Youtube video I found to see if there's any benefit on doing that. And/or to make people aware if can be done. Apparently some folks tried to replicate that with no success (see comment section). Comments welcome.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FdaFCRSicGM (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FdaFCRSicGM)
Supposedly the newer bikes have stronger springs but we've heard of it happening on the newer bikes as well.
As far as getting a key programmed with the rfid, I don't see why it wouldn't work but then you can get a credit card key from Kwackers and get it programmed for that as well. It won't help you if the spring is the culprit, though. And as much as you hear about the spring issue here, it really hasn't happened that much at all. Happened to me twice early on in my bike ownership and hasn't happened again (knock on wood). Hasn't stopped me riding the bike. Hasn't stopped me owning the bike. Hasn't stopped me having fun on the bike.
http://youtu.be/VaWl2lA7968 (http://youtu.be/VaWl2lA7968)
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The KiPass activation switch issue has been reduced on later C-14's due to a stiffer (Easy Boys) spring but it has not been eliminated.
The way Kawasaki could eliminate this problem is to mechanically couple the activation switch with the ignition switch. That way if the activation switch stuck down, so too would the ignition switch and main key. This would do two things: make the user aware that something was wrong with the ignition assembly and much more importantly, give the user the opportunity to mechanically overcome the stuck switch by pulling it up directly. Even if pliers were needed, and that is not likely, the switch could be freed easily and it would be easy to verify that it did, indeed, pop back up (Boys!). It is really the entire concept of 'fail safe' designs, and a spring return simply is not fail safe in even the loosest use of the term.
Not to turn salesman on you but I do sell a commercial product that will absolutely eliminate the possibility of this situation ever stranding or interfering with the starting of a C-14 ever again.
Brian
Hey gang, read all this thread and no freaking answer on what happened? Geez. Does that sound like the spring issue fixed on newer bikes (with a stronger one)? Just curious.
And I take the opportunity to post this related Youtube video I found to see if there's any benefit on doing that. And/or to make people aware if can be done. Apparently some folks tried to replicate that with no success (see comment section). Comments welcome.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FdaFCRSicGM (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FdaFCRSicGM)
-
Thank you very much for your input. After reading some more, I'm not worried about this at all. Bike will be parked and covered inside my garage except when in one of my few trips a year. Second, even if that happened, I know disconnecting and reconnecting the gray connector resets the switch, so I wouldn't be stranded; just have to make sure I carry the tools to do that. And third, it seems to happen when crap accumulates in the mechanism, since one owner resolved the issue with compressed air once in there. With a stronger spring, cleaning that area regularly, and with bike garaged most of the time and never being used in the rain on purpose, the chances of that happening on my bike are slim to none.
And finally, I'm aware of your bypass switch for that Brian, along with the low-fuel-range/no-warning harness, and might get one or both if necessary. I'd buy the low-fuel-range in a heartbeat if it didn't eliminate the warning, so have to own the bike for a few hundred miles and decide which is more important. And the bypass one I have a couple of years to decide since it doesn't happen when new (will monitor this forum for cases in newer bikes). Thank you again folks. I'm VERY happy the only potential issues with this bike are really stupid stuff, and easily fixed. Now it's time to make some phone calls to make this happen folks 8). Have a great weekend.
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I'm not sure how I missed this thread earlier, but I just read through the whole thing. It seems we have communication errors more than
we have KIPASS errors. Really the whole thing is clear as mud. Especially at this late date when all of Burbs photos are gone.
I'm now going to do the FOB trick that was mentioned above.
Welp...the battery and the ignition trick did not work.
And I still see no response at all to my suggestion a long time ago to try it passively. I will quote, again, what I said:
"2) Or a totally defective active Fob- which you can quickly eliminate that by attempting to use it passively by placing it correctly on the ignition area (SEE USER MANUAL), waiting 10 seconds, and pressing the knob to see if it wakes up."
Yeah I suggested that in my first post as well, okay my second post, but it was my first real post and the first post with any suggestions.
'I was first!' 'No, I was first!'
Youse guys crack me up. :D
They crack me up too! ;D Especially when Burbs did respond, but didn't use the words they were expecting to see. :P
I'm not sure what happened here either, but I'm pretty sure it was more than one thing. It seems that a grounding/connection problem
started the whole thing off (and it happened to Burbs again later on (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=17021.msg208802#msg208802)) and then either a stuck KIPASS activation switch or perhaps even a kill switch in the wrong position went on to further complicate things.
Reliving the frustration of those trying to help was amusing. ;D
-
............and some folks think KIPASS is a worry.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?82299-General-Observation-DESS-error-reports-seem-to-be-growing-recently (http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?82299-General-Observation-DESS-error-reports-seem-to-be-growing-recently)!
-
So what happened to Chris ? Did he follow Brian's advise, start drinking and never stopped ?? Did he sell his Concours and get a new Indian or ???
Anyone know the outcome of this lengthy subject ??
Inquiring minds, and even mine, like to know.
Brent
-
So yesterday, I went out for a ride.. came back home atry to startfter a while to pickup my wife as we were going out to my daughter's for dinner.
I parked in the driveway, went in the house to get her and she's was wearing a dress... So I said "we're not going on the bike?" "Nah... it's too sticky, lets take the car".
I go back out and try to start the bike to put it in the garage and it wouldn't turn on. I couldn't even turn the key. I went in the house to get my second fob, and nothing... same problem. So I'm thinking something blew the main fuse or something.
I pushed it into the garage and went about my business.
Today I came home after work and headed to the garage to see what was going on. Ignition key turned on and the bike started right up???
Go figure??? :loco:
Tony
-
Go figure??? :loco:
It's obvious- your C14 is totally jealous!
-
So yesterday, I went out for a ride.. came back home atry to startfter a while to pickup my wife as we were going out to my daughter's for dinner.
I parked in the driveway, went in the house to get her and she's was wearing a dress... So I said "we're not going on the bike?" "Nah... it's too sticky, lets take the car".
I go back out and try to start the bike to put it in the garage and it wouldn't turn on. I couldn't even turn the key. I went in the house to get my second fob, and nothing... same problem. So I'm thinking something blew the main fuse or something.
I pushed it into the garage and went about my business.
Today I came home after work and headed to the garage to see what was going on. Ignition key turned on and the bike started right up???
Go figure??? :loco:
Tony
When was the last time that you had the battery out? Pull that sucker out and clean ALL of the connections. Put some type of contact cleaner on and put it back together.
-
I forget last time the battery was out... You are probably right.
-
the mad pow-ah of KiPass rules (http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/avatars/iconhammer.gif)
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the mad pow-ah of KiPass rules (http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/avatars/iconhammer.gif)
Dude, where have you been?! :chugbeer: