Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C10, aka Kawasaki Concours - The Original => The Bike - C10 => Topic started by: linexrandy on April 02, 2013, 08:28:59 PM
-
Hey guys, first post. Heres my story. I've been riding a 2008 KLR 650 for almost a year and am ready for a Connie. I put the KLR (that has many, many, farkles) on craigslist for the KBB value price of $3750 or trade for a Connie. My KLR only has 3500 miles, mint shape, never dropped, farkles galor (madstad system, aftermarket seat, top box, many others). Anyways, an older gentleman about 2 hrs away calls me and says he has a 2000 model with 17,000 miles on it. He's the second owner, had it since 7,000 miles. It has Helibars, Rifle windshield, Corban seat, fender extender, Givi top box, grip heaters, and a radio system installed. He might have more, but I can't remember. Here's my problem. He said his riding partner died back in 2008 and he basically quit riding around the same time. He said he would go out and start the bike periodically but over the years the carbs started gumming up and then the battery died, so if I remember correctly he said it hasn't been started in a year. He absolutley assured me it was not ever hydrolocked and would remove the tank to let me check the piston heights. The guy sounds honest and is interested in trading for my KLR. He knows he will have to put up a little cash with the Connie since it will need alot of work to get it going again, but I checked the blue book and it's only $2550. Thats a $1200 difference between our bikes. I'm thinking I'll do the trade if he pitches in at least $600. The bike is mint. I'm excited. Do you need to remove the entire front fairing to get the tank off to check for hydrolock? If I can get it to attach I'll share a pic he sent me. The bike is clean and never been down. Would yall be concerned buying a bike that hasn't been ridden for this long?
(http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg238/linexrandy/0331131950-00.jpg)
I really hope I can get this bike. Supposed to meet on Saturday. I'm as excited as a kid on Christmas eve!
-
I myself would not have a problem buying the bike that is that clean. Looking at the pic it looks like he keeps a neat garage. That tells me something! If not hydrolocked you will probably have to clean carbs and new battery. Probably new tires also as they might be quite old. Even still this bike with decent care will easily last 100,000 miles. Good luck. If you get the C10 come back here often. You will get all the help you need.
-
Thanks! Yes the guy seems like the type that kept the bike in good order till it set. He also mentioned he went to a COG rally in Denver. I plan on sending the carbs to the spa in florida, new petcock, new fuel lines, new radiator lines, check water pump, change oil and filter. He said the rear tire was new, 2 years ago I think, but new tires will be in the works also. I hope I'm just over worrying about all this. I'm sure the bikes fine. I've taken mid 80's hondas and a kawasaki that was sitting out behind a shed for 15 years and made run again so this shouldn't be to big a challenge. Been buying non-running junk for 14 years and somtimes making it run lol.
-
Great. You will like working on the Connie once you get the body work off. If he has the S.S. hex screws the body panels come off a lot faster with a driver!!
Don't know if you know about the "other forum. I guess you do if you know about SiSF's carb spa.
Keep in touch. Tom
-
That's a nice looking bike. Did I see it listed on CL in the DC area? If the price is accesptable, I wouldn't hesitate to get the bike. Do the carbs, flush the tank, and get a new batttery. Then ride it some to decide what needs doing next, i.e. fluids, hoses, etc. It might be a good time to replace the thermo as it pretty much requires having the carbs off to access it easily (its not a very good road side repair to attempt). Do order a new large o-ring for it. Tell the guy at your local parts place to get you a thermo from an '83 Honda Accord. It's the same one but you may want to add a 1/16" weep hole if it doesn't have one.
To remove the gas tank. FIRST, remove BOTH side panels (the ones your legs cover) to avoid scratching them with the tank as you remove it (there is a fuel line and vacuum line you need to reach in and undo. To get to them, you will also need to remove the seat, and two bolts that fasten the tank to the frame. On the right bottom side there is a wire connector and plastic gauge drain assembly that pops off. Keep track of the two round rubber grommets that are at the inside front of the tank. They have a habit of falling into the abysis of the fairing and engine, never to be seen again. There is also a large (5") square one that lays on the frame.
Learn the starter "bump" method of checking the valves, doing it this way saves you from removing a cover on the left side of the engine and replacing the gasket each time. You will hate removing and reinstalling the valve cover - but it can be done. It likes to fight and humble us. Sometimes new carb boots are required if they get to hard.
Send this guy your money and he will help you with your addiction...
http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/ (http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/)
-
No, the bike is about 2 hrs away from me in Canyon TX. He said he had his son list it on craigslist a year or so ago but it wouldn't sell with it not running. His son saw my ad on craigslist looking for a Connie and texted me his number. So does this qualify as a "barn find" lol?!
-
If we can't come together on the cash difference with the trade, I think I'll offer him $2,000 cash and go from there but I have a sneaky feeling he values this bike around $3K. Good running Connies in Texas are anywhere from $2K -$5K. A little higher than other parts of the country it seems.
-
That's a tough one. The bike is clean and well farkled. Farkles you'l'd likely want anyways. But not running is a HUGE gamble for the purchaser, and owners trying to get top dollar don't want to think anything is wrong with their baby. I don't know what your plans are for getting it running, but I'd say expect to spend 7-800.00 for carb work, a battery, flushing all fluids, a petcock and dealing with a potentially rusted tank. If I were considering this bike, that would be my short list. That gets the cost up, and of course you're still going to have some sweat equity in it. Good luck - Steve
-
Thanks Steve. He knows he's going to have to put up some cash with it, but how much we havn't discussed yet. He mentioned he keeps the tank full to the top, so hopefully not too much rust. I'm thinking along the same lines as you, about $800 worth of repairs. I'm going to shoot for the difference in KBB which is $1200. Don't know if he'll go for that. The least I'd take is $600 or no deal. Then I'll ask him what his bottom dollar cash price is. I'm thinking with all the farkles it's worth (to me) $2500.
-
There's a good chance that with that many upgrades already done that Steve may have already seen those carbs, and a good cleaning may be the only ticket they need...take a look at the airbox and see if there's a piece of foam in the opening on one side of the inlet...
-
Ok here's an update. I have sold (well, tomorrow anyways) the KLR for my asking price ($3750) so I've got that plus a little more, say $4500 or so total, to spend on a bike. I really want this one as I like the color, farkles, and miles are low. But am going to assume the worst, i.e. rust in tank, bad tires, carbs need done, battery. If I can get the bike at $2K-$2500 do yall think it's a good deal? The Blue Book on it's 2550 but they are hard to find in my part of Texas. I'd have to travel 4+ hrs to look at others, and they are all in the $3500-$5K range. Ideas? Thoughts? My thought is I buy this one for a good price, put say around $1,000 in it, and have a low miliage connie for less than $3500 or so.
-
Your bike is almost a clone of my 2000 that I bought two years ago for a little more $$ and 5,000 miles. It had been ridden once a month over the years but was stored indoors in FL. The tires were hard (replaced those), got a new air cleaner element (the old one was falling apart), new brakes, brake and clutch fluid, a taller Rifle windshield for me, and a Corbin seat. Tuned it up with new plugs and ran one tank of Seafoam through it. A few little odds and ends and a set of new tires, a farkle here and there and it's like new bike. You'll have maybe $500-800 in it and have basically a new bike. Oh, and if the head bearings have never been adjusted, they're overdue. Mine made it to 15,000 miles before the wobble at 45-50 began to scare me. Should almost be like a new bike if it was never hydrolocked. You'll have 80% of a world class Sport Tourer that has 100% of the character for 25% of the cost of a new one.
PS- If you don't do the SISF overflow tubes, replace the petcock and check the valves-interval is 6,000 miles unless he has documentation. The petcock's easy to do and less <$80 or so from Murph's. Good luck and let us know what happens.
Ron
-
Your bike is almost a clone of my 2000 that I bought two years ago for a little more $$ and 5,000 miles. It had been ridden once a month over the years but was stored indoors in FL. The tires were hard (replaced those), got a new air cleaner element (the old one was falling apart), new brakes, brake and clutch fluid, a taller Rifle windshield for me, and a Corbin seat. Tuned it up with new plugs and ran one tank of Seafoam through it. A few little odds and ends and a set of new tires, a farkle here and there and it's like new bike. You'll have maybe $500-800 in it and have basically a new bike. Oh, and if the head bearings have never been adjusted, they're overdue. Mine made it to 15,000 miles before the wobble at 45-50 began to scare me. Should almost be like a new bike if it was never hydrolocked. You'll have 80% of a world class Sport Tourer that has 100% of the character for 25% of the cost of a new one.
PS- If you don't do the SISF overflow tubes, replace the petcock and check the valves-interval is 6,000 miles unless he has documentation. The petcock's easy to do and less <$80 or so from Murph's. Good luck and let us know what happens.
Ron
Thanks! Favorite response yet! Gives me hope. I'll be calling the guy tomorrow night to see how much he wants for it. I've looked at Honda ST 1100's, V-Stroms, and these older Concours, and I think they are the best sub $5000 bike you can have. My opinion only.
-
That red piping on the seat makes me think it's a Corbin. That's worth $450-475 right there-new.
-
Yes, it's a Corbin.
-
Sold the KLR today to another seller for my asking price! I talked to the guy with this connie this evening and am going to look at it in the morning. His rock bottom cash price is $2,600, and I think it's a fair price. I plan to put $600 or so in it. Either way, I'll have a low mileage connie for less than $3500. Seach Tempest reveals 0 suitable Connies within 400 miles of me with this much farkeling. And I got the story straight on it. He let the tags expire in 08, but continued to ride it around to keep it fresh, not just start it like I previously thought he said. He also said it has been less than a year since it was started, but the gas has deff. gummed up the carbs. The rear tire is brand new 2 years ago, and the bike has been kept in a garage out of the sun. The front tire needs replaced due to wear soon. He says you have to see the bike in person to understand why he won't budge less than $2600. We'll see in the morning. I'll keep yall updated and post pics if it lands in my garage.
-
I'm certainly no expert in this area so I'm just thinking out loud here. What I'm wondering is that if the carbs are gummed up from fuel then does it have a failed petcock? I'm just wondering if the amount of fuel that the carbs hold would be enough to gum up the carbs even if it evaporated completely. Now if there is a steady stream of fuel being leaked into the carbs by a leaky petcock refreshing it maybe? Seriously, just thinking here. In any case, check the petcock. It's easy to do and you'll want to know anyway.
-
I bought it. $2600. Did the hydrolock test and it passed with flying colors. Spent about 6 hrs this afternoon cleaning the very nasty carbs and..........................ITS ALIVE!!!!! Runs great, idles at 1100-1200 rpm (is that right?)! I have a very small problem involving a sticky throttle, but I'll start another thread tomorrow if I can't find my answer. Anyways I'm tired, going to bad, talk to yall tomorrow. Oh and I'll try to get some pics tomorrow.
-
Great!! Yup, 1100 rpm is normal. YEAH, lotsa pics. ;D And tell us about the farkles and the farkles on your wish list. We love to hear about farkles. Sounds like you got a good one. Thanks for the update. Tom
-
good work! another c-10 raised from the ashes! Steve
-
Randy, when you get her home take some pictures of the "radio system". I am interested to see how it was done
Rob
-
Ok I didn't want to junk up the boards with a new thread and I figured any who are interested are in this thread anyways. I regret not getting pics of her before I tore into extracting the carbs, but here's some pics.
Here she is sitting in the Dr.s office:
(http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg238/linexrandy/2000%20Concours/image12.jpeg)
(http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg238/linexrandy/2000%20Concours/image13.jpeg)
First farkle getting removed: Old cruise control that didn't work.
(http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg238/linexrandy/2000%20Concours/image.jpeg)
(http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg238/linexrandy/2000%20Concours/image3.jpeg)
(http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg238/linexrandy/2000%20Concours/image2.jpeg)
Cruise Control thats getting removed, and the CB/Radio control:
(http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg238/linexrandy/2000%20Concours/image21.jpeg)
Out of bike:
(http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg238/linexrandy/2000%20Concours/image16.jpeg)
Carbs were nasty!
(http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg238/linexrandy/2000%20Concours/image11.jpeg)
Farkles: Lowered pegs
(http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg238/linexrandy/2000%20Concours/image15.jpeg)
Passenger output for Radio system:
(http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg238/linexrandy/2000%20Concours/image19.jpeg)
Drivers output for radio:
(http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg238/linexrandy/2000%20Concours/image20.jpeg)
The radio (just a place to plug an Ipod or phone in, just has aux jack and rainproof zippered compartment:
(http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg238/linexrandy/2000%20Concours/image14.jpeg)
Fenda extenda:
(http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg238/linexrandy/2000%20Concours/image17.jpeg)
New rear tire
(http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg238/linexrandy/2000%20Concours/image18.jpeg)
I don't think these are Helibars. He said it had bar risers. I don't know if these are stock or not.
(http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg238/linexrandy/2000%20Concours/image22.jpeg)
Also has the Corbin seat which is awesome, and a Rifle windshield with custom spider cracks at each hole ;)
-
I also forgot the volume control for the radio is on the dash, as is the control for the heated grips I forgot to mention. Ok so here's where I'm at/my problem. Since I had to remove one of the original throttle cables from the cruise control, I don't/didn't know what the adjustment was, so I made it closely match the other one. Now my throttle is "stiff" as in it will not snap back, more of a slow roll if I help it along. Also, it started right up this morning and the idle settled right down to around 1200 and fairly steady. But, it is slow to rev, almost like a hesitation when rolling the throttle, and slow to rev back down. I don't know if it's the throttle adjustment being out of wack and the high speed passages clogged in the carb or what. I run it for about 2 minutes just now and the throttle was getting more responsive, so I wonder if getting the fresh gas through there is helping. Should I run some B12 chemtool in it? I only have 3 gallons in the tank.
-
Ok I've made some progress this morning. Took it out for a ride around the neighborhood and I think the carbs have straightened themselves out. Runs smooth as silk, accelerates amazing (course I'm coming off a KLR lol), and I think I've narrowed my problem down to throttle cable adjustment. Now that I've ridden it around, when I shift it won't throttle down when I let off the throttle. It also is idleing at 2000 rpm and if you rev it up to say 4000 rpm it stays there unless I push the throttle back hard, and then it barely idles back down to 2 or 3K. Can I adjust the cables at the carbs on the bike or do I have to take them back off?
-
Ok I've made some progress this morning. Took it out for a ride around the neighborhood and I think the carbs have straightened themselves out. Runs smooth as silk, accelerates amazing (course I'm coming off a KLR lol), and I think I've narrowed my problem down to throttle cable adjustment. Now that I've ridden it around, when I shift it won't throttle down when I let off the throttle. It also is idleing at 2000 rpm and if you rev it up to say 4000 rpm it stays there unless I push the throttle back hard, and then it barely idles back down to 2 or 3K. Can I adjust the cables at the carbs on the bike or do I have to take them back off?
The slow to idle down is indicative of carbbies needing lotsa luv internally. You're new here, do some reading iff'n you haven't already:
https://sites.google.com/site/shoodabenengineering/intake-and-exhaust
-
I took the carbs back off and re-routed, adjusted the throttle cables. Now the throttle snaps closed and it has good response. The throttle down revs are getting better the more I ride it. I took it about two miles down the road and filled up the tank and am going to put about half a bottle of seafoam in it. I feel the high speed jets are slowing unclogging themselves for lack of a better word. It's running great though. I'm sure not SISF great, but I plan to wait till this winter to ship the carbs to him mainly for the overflows. I'll order the synchronizer with the stainless steal tubes and see if the carbs can be set better, but overall she's doing great. Now just gotta go through all the fluids and get a new rear tire, do some general cleanup of the whole bike.
-
Took it out for about a 75 mile loop and she's A-OK. I probably didn't need to add the Sea Foam but it can't hurt. Idles down great between shifts, starts super easy, all in all I love this bike. Gonna have to do somthing about the heat coming off the engine. It's about 85-90 here and man it baked my legs.
-
Be careful with Seafoam. Too much of a good thing can swell up the rubber tips on the float needles. Not a good thing.
-
If you got to much heat just send some up my way, high of 0C today, spring is taking a long time to take hold.
Congrats on getting the bike in order!
-
Awesome. Ditto on the Seafoam. Sounds like you put it in pretty heavy. Might oughta run that outa there and not let it sit.
Beautiful bike!
Ron
-
Yep I put a whole bottle in a full tank. Almost did half a bottle but oh well. I've always had good luck using sea foam, never messed anything up but I've always used the gas up in a few days. I took off work tomorrow to get the bike legal and darn the luck may just have to spend the day getting rid of the gas! At worst I'll go through a tank by Thursday commuting to work. I ordered a new front tire and it's supposed to be here Wednesday. I can believe so much bike can be had for so little $!
-
Took it out for about a 75 mile loop and she's A-OK. I probably didn't need to add the Sea Foam but it can't hurt. Idles down great between shifts, starts super easy, all in all I love this bike. Gonna have to do somthing about the heat coming off the engine. It's about 85-90 here and man it baked my legs.
Look up 2fast in the member section. He came up with a system of heat shields for dealing with the heat that works quite well.
-
Linex,,, I just saw this discussion.
Congrats on the new bike.
Are you aware that there is a COG ride in Hunt Texas (Next to Kerrville) this weekend? (April 12-14)
If you can make it.. be there!!!!!
Lotsa tire kicking and riding. Both C-10 and C-14....
Great place to meet other COGgers and really get to know your bike...
Lotsa knowledge about Connies....
Contact me if you need more info.
Ride safe, Ted
-
Linex,,, I just saw this discussion.
Congrats on the new bike.
Are you aware that there is a COG ride in Hunt Texas (Next to Kerrville) this weekend? (April 12-14)
If you can make it.. be there!!!!!
Lotsa tire kicking and riding. Both C-10 and C-14....
Great place to meet other COGgers and really get to know your bike...
Lotsa knowledge about Connies....
Contact me if you need more info.
Ride safe, Ted
No I didn't know about it. A little to short of notice for me but I do plan on lots of trips to the hill country this summer. I grew up in Buffalo Gap, worked a couple years in Ballinger, then the job moved me up to Childress. So now instead of being 2 hrs from riding heaven I'm about 5-6. Oh well, one day I'll make it back down south of I-20!
-
Just an update. I've been riding this bike 300 miles a week rain or shine and have done nothing more than the initial carb cleaning and put on a K&N air filter. I'm averaging 33-35 mpg running 75-80 and best tank was 44mpg running 65. It is dang near impossible to run 65 on the interstate on this bike! 90 feels like 65 on the KLR! She starts and runs flawless. Coming up on 19,000 miles. I just won a stock seat off Ebay for cheap and am going to modify it to look/function like a Russell. The Corban is tolerable for me with beads on it for about 2 hrs. The wife on the other hand starts begging for a stop about every hour or so. I took off the handlebar risers as it gave me neck and shoulder pains. I'm 6'3 and without them helped. Will convert to murphs handlebar adapters later on. Love this bike, just gotta make it fit me!