Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => The Bike - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: MrFurious on May 12, 2011, 11:47:37 AM
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Greetings all! I'm looking to purchase a new C14 very shortly (in the next week or so) but have a few questions I hope someone here can help with regarding the changes/updates between the 08-09 models and the updated 2010 model. My local dealer has a leftover non-ABS 2009 marked down to $10,500 but if all the upgrades and new features on the 2010 are as good as they claim I'm thinking it might be worth spending the extra money to get them.
First, for those with the new 2010's what kind of fuel mileage are you getting in the new economy assistance mode? From what I've read elsewhere it seems the earlier models were capable of around 41-42mpg on the highway with proper right wrist discipline. Just curious how much more efficiency this new feature is really worth. They claim up to 25% improvement, but that's a pretty big claim.
Second, how do the factory heated grips on the 2010's compare to aftermarket ones in terms of heat output? Anyone have any problems with the factory ones worth noting?
How much better are the 2010's side covers at effectively venting the engine heat away from the rider?
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I've only got 2500 miles on my 2010. I ride the vast majority of the time in Eco mode and I manage to get 41-42MPH. The problem is in "right wrist discipline". It is just too hard to NOT twist that wrist. I really have not had enough riding time to fully explore one mode over the other. However, I really didn't buy the bike FOR the fuel economy.
As to the grips....I have no aftermarket experience, but I can state the factory grips get HOT. In the high 30F to mid 40'sF, I find that with a good pair of wind proof, but otherwise un-insulated gloves, the most I can turn the heat to is one to two clicks (marks) from OFF. Anything more and my hands are too hot. When the weather was in the low 30 to mid 30's and I was wearing full insulated winter, windproof gloves, I needed to go another notch warmer. Past mid-way and it is too hot for me.
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Mileage- easily will be 42-44. A hard day in twisty sections maybe 38-39. 75 on the slab 46-48
Grips- plenty hot, never have had them over two little lines even at 35degrees.
Heat- simply not a problem have never noticed it.
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I had an 08 for over 3 years. When the 10 came out I had to have one.
The econ mode is good for 5-10% in my experience, which includes a non-freeway trip to IL from AZ.
The factory grips are better than the after markets I added to the 08. I even use grip puppies over them and where I live it has been know to get into the low teens. (Not that I ride in that weather.)
Ain't no engine heat on my legs, even in 100 degree weather. (I try not to ride in that weather too.)
The added electronics are nice too. Traction control, changing the display from the left handlebar,etc.
And I like the locking pocket on the left side too.
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Don't let the "better" price on the 09 fool you... it's not a great deal. I picked up my leftover 09 with ABS for $9400 four weeks ago.
To lure you into a leftover non-ABS 09 he should be coming down well into the $8k's.
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I'm getting 42-44 most days unless my wrist gets twitchy. I ride into the low 20s and the grips work just fine. Personally, go with the 10 or 11.
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First, for those with the new 2010's what kind of fuel mileage are you getting in the new economy assistance mode? From what I've read elsewhere it seems the earlier models were capable of around 41-42mpg on the highway with proper right wrist discipline. Just curious how much more efficiency this new feature is really worth. They claim up to 25% improvement, but that's a pretty big claim.
Second, how do the factory heated grips on the 2010's compare to aftermarket ones in terms of heat output? Anyone have any problems with the factory ones worth noting?
How much better are the 2010's side covers at effectively venting the engine heat away from the rider?
As you've heard, the Heated grip work very well!
The new bodywork and rubber gaskets seal almost ALL the engine heat away from the rider.
As for the ECON mode, it sorta works. The problem I have with it is that most of our cruising
out here is at 83-85MPH. The ECON mode quits at 80 MPH Indicated. This means that at 77MPH,
actual speed, the ECON mode is OFF. I can watch my MPG drop from 44'ish to 38'ish as I cross
that 77MPH barrier. That's my only complaint with the ECON mode. At all other speeds it really
works. The engine even seems crisper in ECON mode.
Mick
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Mileage- easily will be 42-44. A hard day in twisty sections maybe 38-39. 75 on the slab 46-48
Grips- plenty hot, never have had them over two little lines even at 35degrees.
Heat- simply not a problem have never noticed it.
+1 :thumbs:
Similar mileage, 42 ave regardless of ECO mode or not but that will drop to 35-38 with an agressive wrist. I agree with KawiMick, engine does seem crisper/cleaner in ECO.
Grips are definately hot at the higher settings, comfortable at the lower and that's coming from a guy in Wisconsin. If you install a Throttlemeister, use care not to bend or disturb the heating elements on the right grip. I used care and mine works great. Grip Puppies don't seem to affect the heated grips much either, since they are plenty hot at the higher settings.
I waited for the '10 myself due to the engine heat complaints and I'm glad I did! Faring adjustments Kawi made seems to have addressed this well and by the way, KTRC (traction control) is a definate bonus on the later bikes.
Get a '10 or later, you won't regret it...this bike ROCKS!! :chugbeer:
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Into the 40's depending on how hard I twist the wrist :)
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Just finshed a 170 mile highway trip - NJ to MD. This was all 6th gear freeway speeds (and above). Most of the time I was between 70-80 MPH. A couple of higher stretches when an Audi and I were playing tag. ;) In Eco mode the whole way. 41.5
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Well, I called most every Kawi dealer within a 3 hour radius this morning and not one of them has or can get a 2010 or 2011 Connie right now. One told me that Kawasaki has basically cancelled any dealer orders for bikes that hadn't been built or shipped before the quake/tsunami/meltdown. Even a lot of their quad and jetski orders were cancelled even though they're made in Nebraska due to lack of parts sourced from Japan.
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Well, I'm starting to think I should take this complete lack of C14's in my area as a sign, especially since the more I read up on them the more I wonder whether I really want to buy one or not given the TPS issue. Why should I spend $11-17k on a new bike that's going to cost me several hundred bucks every few years to replace the TPS sensors? I'd even go as far to say all you current C14 owners should start filing reports to the NTSB about the TPS issue. Make sure you mention the safety concern of it taking over the display and requiring the rider to do the two-button tango to clear it out, and demand Kawasaki issue a recall that either A) requires dealers to disable the TPS in the ECU and effectively eliminate the feature, or B) replaces the current TPS sensors with ones that have easily replaceable batteries.
Personally I don't see the need for a TPS as I regularly check my tire pressures, and I'm sure most people who own a Connie ride enough that they're going to use up a set of tires a year and could easily replace the batteries when having new tires installed each time as preventive TPS maintenance. I think everyone would be a lot happier only having to spend $10-20 on two new batteries than $360+ on two new sensors...IF they're even available when you need them.
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A few things here. The TPS issue is way overblown as is any issue that occurs on this bike. Anything and everything that happens to our C14's is discussed here in minute detail. The three year warranty will take care of this if it occurs. If it really bothers an owner you can replace them with regular valve stems and your display will read -- --. Just scroll past it. Don't let a minor thing like this keep you from a great bike.
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Then you certainly wouldn't like the low gas message....it does the same thing. Where's Steve when you need him?
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I think you're falling into the trap of seeing discussions of problems on a forum and mistakenly thinking they are widespread problems. They're not. Remember, hardly anyone comes on here just to post that they are NOT having a problem with KiPass, TPS, etc.
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There is partial truth that the dealers can't get more '11's. They order them in '10 and they deliver them. Kawa is not going to ship a buttload of them to their warehouse and hope that dealers order them; they don't want to be stuck with leftovers. In about three months, the factory will start making '12 C14's and the cycle repeats itself.
MPG- maybe it is because I live at 4700' but my '11 gets above 45mpg. On my last trip (300 miles rt) doing the speed limit (varied from 55 to 70mph) go 49 mpg. Bike now has 3000 miles on it.
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Greetings all! I'm looking to purchase a new C14 very shortly (in the next week or so) but have a few questions I hope someone here can help with regarding the changes/updates between the 08-09 models and the updated 2010 model.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kawasaki_1400GTR (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kawasaki_1400GTR)
My local dealer has a leftover non-ABS 2009 marked down to $10,500 but if all the upgrades and new features on the 2010 are as good as they claim I'm thinking it might be worth spending the extra money to get them.
I would not buy it without ABS, period. But that is me. It is probably also why dealers have a hard time getting rid of them (those without ABS) and why I don't think you can get a 2011 without ABS anymore
First, for those with the new 2010's what kind of fuel mileage are you getting in the new economy assistance mode? From what I've read elsewhere it seems the earlier models were capable of around 41-42mpg on the highway with proper right wrist discipline. Just curious how much more efficiency this new feature is really worth. They claim up to 25% improvement, but that's a pretty big claim.
I think it is probably more marketing than reality, myself. I have not used the "Eco" mode at all yet, and I get 41-42mpg with MIXED highway/non-highway riding already. I might try it on the next trip, though (I haven't had my 2011 very long).
Second, how do the factory heated grips on the 2010's compare to aftermarket ones in terms of heat output? Anyone have any problems with the factory ones worth noting?
They work great. They don't seem to work any better than my aftermarkets on my older bike, but these OEM have some advantages:
1) They look great- no stray wires, great control location and mounting
2) They are infinitely variable
3) The computer will track voltage and drop the heaters if the battery gets low
How much better are the 2010's side covers at effectively venting the engine heat away from the rider?
I can't say, because I don't have a 2008/9. But from what I read on the forums, it is considerable. Look at the Wikipedia page for all the differences. You should be asking the major question- like traction control....
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Remember, hardly anyone comes on here just to post that they are NOT having a problem with KiPass, TPS, etc.
I'm NOT having a problem with KiPass, TPS or anything else. ;D
2010 C14 is considered the best Sports Touring bike by many and repeatedly wins comparison tests. If you go buy something else because of chatter on this web site, well then you'll find more owner complaints about their bikes on the forums of whatever bike you do end up with.
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ECCO mode crisper??? what i notice from ecco mode is less power when you romp on it. How can it be crisper while delivering higher fuel economy? physics boys simple physics.
also what with the TPS? are you saying, when the battery dies in these you need new ones? how long do they last?
bob
and no i wouldnt have an 09 connie over the 10 or 11 at any cost.
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A few things here. The TPS issue is way overblown as is any issue that occurs on this bike. Anything and everything that happens to our C14's is discussed here in minute detail. The three year warranty will take care of this if it occurs. If it really bothers an owner you can replace them with regular valve stems and your display will read -- --. Just scroll past it. Don't let a minor thing like this keep you from a great bike.
Wouldn't replacing the sensors with regular valve stems just cause the system to issue the Low Battery warning every time you took off on the bike and require the two-button tango to reset it, or at the very least cause the TPS idiot light to be on all the time?
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[TPS] when the battery dies in these you need new ones? how long do they last?
Why are people thinking there are batteries in the TPS? I don't know either way, but I find that hard to believe for a number of reasons:
1) It is not typical for TPS systems.
2) It is a VERY unfriendly place to have a battery.
3) If there were a battery, there would be no need for the bike to have to be MOVING before it will give a pressure reading, which is does. Typically, it is the spinning that generates the power needed to power up the transmitter.
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Why are people thinking there are batteries in the TPS? I don't know either way, but I find that hard to believe for a number of reasons:
1) It is not typical for TPS systems.
2) It is a VERY unfriendly place to have a battery.
3) If there were a battery, there would be no need for the bike to have to be MOVING before it will give a pressure reading, which is does. Typically, it is the spinning that generates the power needed to power up the transmitter.
A picture (or several) is worth a thousand words.
http://www.pbase.com/fredharmon/tiresensor (http://www.pbase.com/fredharmon/tiresensor)
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A picture (or several) is worth a thousand words.
http://www.pbase.com/fredharmon/tiresensor (http://www.pbase.com/fredharmon/tiresensor)
Thanks. I guess that puts THAT to rest :)
I guess it would be a good idea to replace the battery any time it is time for a new tire? (Unless you burn through a lot of tires!) Looks like it uses the motion sensor/switch so it will go into low-power mode when not active to conserve the battery. So that is why we have to wait until we are moving, and away from the driveway/garage where the air pump is, in order to know if we need air or not.
Interesting that the chip specs say the battery should last "10 years in standard application". Hmmm...
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Wouldn't replacing the sensors with regular valve stems just cause the system to issue the Low Battery warning every time you took off on the bike and require the two-button tango to reset it, or at the very least cause the TPS idiot light to be on all the time?
Nope. If the TPS isn't transmitting, then the system just ignores it and displays "--" for tire pressure.
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Actually if neither TPS transmits, the display goes away, you can't cycle to it at all.
Murph is now replacing batteries in the TPS www.murphskits.com (http://www.murphskits.com)
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That I could live with that and it would be easily doable the first time I need new tires.
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I got my 2011 almost 3 weeks ago now. I went back and forth b/w a 2008 left-over ABS the local dealer was trying to get rid of. He said his bottom line was $9600 (not OTD). After reading some things on the web (good thing there isn't ever anything incorrect on the web) for my personally, the 2011 was what I thought was the better option. I have since added $1500 in aftermarket goodies and looking back, I maybe should have gone with the 2008 and stuck the money difference in aftermarket goodies. I do really like the ECO mode, and the heated grips.
I am consistently getting 45-47 ave MPH per tank using mostly the ECO mode and not twisting the throttle too hard as I am still "breaking in" the Connie.
Good luck. I think you will be happy with either option as you will probably end up customizing it to your liking anyways.