Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C10, aka Kawasaki Concours - The Original => The Bike - C10 => Topic started by: mcman56 on February 20, 2013, 07:35:31 PM
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I need to service my forks (1999) and it looks like fairing removal is required for adequate access. The manual does not say much about that. Are there any recommendations or suggestions for this process? Based on the number of screws required to remove the lowers and the number of wires in the uppers, it looks like a tedious operation.
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I need to service my forks (1999) and it looks like fairing removal is required for adequate access. ...
Looks can be deceiving...
Loosen up the bar riser pinch bolt, the two cap screws on the riser(s), then loosen the fork cap FIRST!
Jack under the oil pan, remove calipers, wheel, fender, and chromed brake line bracket/guide thingies.
12mm box wrench on one side of the pinch bolts, a 12mm deep well socket (3/8" drive) on the other and turn.
A second method (you need tools/luck) is to remove wheel, calipers, fender, and guide thingies. Remove lower bolt from inside the lower fork (impact wrench), oil will puke over everything. Slip dust wiper up off the lower fork tube, remove 'clip' holding fork seal in, 'slide hammer' the lower fork tube off.
The major issue with the latter method is seating the fork seal back in.
Rick
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I've changed the fork oil twice now on my bike. No front fairing removal was required. Of course, we had the bike up on a lift stand/platform, so it was easier to see the bolts, but doing this at ground level shouldn't be a big deal. Of course, you will need to elevate the front end enough for the forks to drop through the triple tree (if you go with method #1, haven't tried method #2). Rick's instructions should explain it well enough.
Removing the fork tubes does give you an opportunity to clean up any deposits/pits/etc. that may be on the forks that are tearing up your fork seals. For those of us in the land of ice and salt that use the bike in the winter occasionally, this can be important.
Now if you needed to change out the triple tree/triple tree bearings, I'm not sure what is involved there, although I'm guessing that removal of the gas tank would be helpful.
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Thanks for the response. The fork part looks straight forward but I prefer to use torque wrenches on suspension fasteners. With the fairing in place, clearance looks inadequate. While in the area, I would also like to grease the steering bearings. Are you saying that there really is enough clearance? If not, what does it take to remove the upper fairing?
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Never have had the "upper" fairing off. Just the sides and the bottom and the tank of course. Removing the windshield helps also.
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There is enough clearance to get your torque wrench in there to tighten those lower triple tree bolts with the fairing on.
You'll want the shortest socket(s) you can to maximize your wiggle room.
You have to turn the bars just right for each side and be willing to live with a small amount of bolt turn per pull.
Little trick when tightening the upper triple tree bolts is put a thick rug or blanket(s) over your tank and inner fairings - just in case you drop the wrench or something. Don't tempt fate!
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Removing the upper fairing is straight forward and simple. Takes about 5 - 10 minutes max.
1. Remove fairing side panels and top side covers
2. Remove screen and bolt in centre above dash and move dash shroud clear
3. Remove mirrors and unplug indicators
4. Remove bolts on bottom of upper fairing about half way along side, 1 each side
5. Remove bolts that go through fairing that were under mirror mounts making sure to take weight of fairing.
6. While holding fairing unplug headlight and there you have it, upper fairing removed
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Don't make it any harder than necessary... Just remove the tank & you'll be able to access the fork pinch bolts without worrying about chipping the paint. That's all I did when I removed my forks to change fork fluid. Yes, it's close corners for room "in the pocket" to get to those lower pinch bolts, but it's do-able. Oh, I removed the front wheel first too.
Good luck.
p.s. when re-assembling, make sure you install the front wheel & cycle the forks up-n-down a few times before tightening up the pinch bolts to spec.
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Don't make it any harder than necessary... Just remove the tank & you'll be able to access the fork pinch bolts without worrying about chipping the paint. That's all I did when I removed my forks to change fork fluid. Yes, it's close corners for room "in the pocket" to get to those lower pinch bolts, but it's do-able. Oh, I removed the front wheel first too.
Good luck.
p.s. when re-assembling, make sure you install the front wheel & cycle the forks up-n-down a few times before tightening up the pinch bolts to spec.
BTW, a quick plug here for Bergman's Quick Release Tank kit. Available at Murphs:
http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=101 (http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=101)
I've been loving mine ever since I installed it. The only thing I barely sweat now is undoing the fuel line (which is not that hard); everything else is a breeze!
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I serviced my forks and removed them a number of times without taking off the fairing, removing the tank though is a must, and yes, the quick release tank kit is a time saver for me too. Its not a problem getting a torque wrench up in there, providing its a smaller one, like 1/4 or a 3/8 drive, not much room to move but certainly doable no problem. Good luck keep us posted.
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NAW
only plastic needed to be removed is inner firing sides...
(http://i1327.photobucket.com/albums/u672/MAN_OF_BLUES/old%201/COG%20TECHNICAL%20PHOTOS/236143681mnMpRN_fs.jpg)
(http://i1327.photobucket.com/albums/u672/MAN_OF_BLUES/old%201/COG%20TECHNICAL%20PHOTOS/236143750QTtFYI_fs.jpg)
and master the anti-gravity thing... 8)
the quick release tank kit is a time saver for me too.
jeebus man, StrawB, dont you have a 10mm socket permently attached to a speed wrench?
bet I can pull the tank faster....... 8)
quick release tanks...... sheesh...... 8)
luva man... but ya ain't gettin my beer.... ;D
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The '86 - '93 models have a drain in each fork leg and the forks don't have to be removed if it's only a fluid change, there is a thread somewhere on doing this to '94 onwards models - it's a worthy improvement. If the forks have to come out though I do the same as MOB. I put a bottle jack under the sump and and wind it up so the rear wheel is on the ground and most times I don't remove the tank - just drape an old blanket over it. As for a torque wrench for the pinch bolts, for this job it's my hands.
Regards, Russell
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MOB, anything that saves me time I like, even if its 15 seconds ;D, I just don't like wrenching.
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MOB, anything that saves me time I like, even if its 15 seconds ;D, I just don't like wrenching.
wellllll....
now that I'm local, and have all the stuff...... I might open a little business here.....$$$$$$$ ;) 8)