Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C10, aka Kawasaki Concours - The Original => The Bike - C10 => Topic started by: atye on February 06, 2013, 08:02:50 AM
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Ok, on to the next "issue"...LOL
I just got the bike a week ago (2004 C10) and immediately filled the tank. The speedometer is not working so I cannot check the mileage, but ... When the gauge read "E" again yesterday, I filled it up and it took less than 4 gallons of gas.
From what I've read, the bike has a 7.5GAL fuel tank. Is the gauge reading normal or do I have some work to do? This is actually my first bike with a gas gauge (and clock!) so my experience is very limited in this area.
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What you are experiencing is completely "normal" for the C10s. There is a very easy modification that you can do to get the gauge reading to be more accurate.
Here are instructions from the COG website: Link (http://www.cog-online.org/clubportal/clubstatic.cfm?clubID=1328&pubmenuoptID=30728.)
You can just put a 220 ohm resistor in parallel with the sending unit at the connector under the rear of the tank. That usually gets it close enough for most folks. I have a variable resistor, and have it set so my bike hits reserve right around when the gauge touches the top of the red area.
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Hi there,
As many other C-10 owners will chime in, the gas gauge is notoriously inaccurate. Many of us have modified the sensor connection with fixed and variable resistors to improve its measurements.
I used a fixed resistor and then switched to a variable one. Seems to read better for me now.
http://c10mods.blogspot.com/2011/07/c10-fuel-gauge-modification.html (http://c10mods.blogspot.com/2011/07/c10-fuel-gauge-modification.html)
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Thanks for the guidance for this newbie!
Sounds easy enough to fix, I will add it to my list.
8)
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d e a d
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I adjusted my gauge so that it reads full until I hit reserve; then it starts dropping. Nice to know when I'm half way through reserve.
There are only 3 reasons why the odometer won't work - the thing on the axle, the cable, and the readout mechanism. Do you know which is/are causing the problem?
I haven't gotten to the speedometer yet, but soon!
I am gathering all of my "knowledge" so that I can hopefully have a huge day of progress with the C10 very soon and knock out several issues at one sitting.
Loving this forum so far! Been on a lot of different forums over the years for various vehicles and this is one of the most knowledgeable and helpful forums that I have seen!
Thanks!
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"Loving this forum so far! Been on a lot of different forums over the years for various vehicles and this is one of the most knowledgeable and helpful forums that I have seen!"
You really are a newbie, aren't you. ;) Cheers
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LOL
Enjoy it while I can, huh?
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Been a few years since I had my tank apart, but isn't it possible to bend the float rod downward a little to read more accurate? That whole assembly can be removed easily.
This is what I recall on my 1987.
I didn't read the resistor installation instructions. Maybe that is easier. I'm electrically challenged so I don't generally consider any electrical type mods unless they are plug-n-play.
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d e a d
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I just used the 220 ohm resistor and now the fuel gauge is real close to accurate. Very easy fix.
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I adjusted my gauge so that it reads full until I hit reserve; then it starts dropping. Nice to know when I'm half way through reserve.
There are only 3 reasons why the odometer won't work - the thing on the axle, the cable, and the readout mechanism. Do you know which is/are causing the problem?
Found out last night that I have a broken speedometer cable. Easy enough to fix!
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Found out last night that I have a broken speedometer cable. Easy enough to fix!
Murph is your man!
http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/ (http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/)
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I just used the 220 ohm resistor and now the fuel gauge is real close to accurate. Very easy fix.
Ok, I read the link showing how to do the resistor. Looks easy enough that an electrically-challenged person like me could even do it. Thanks.
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Ok, I read the link showing how to do the resistor. Looks easy enough that an electrically-challenged person like me could even do it. Thanks.
Welcome to the club. I even screwed up a free lunch once!! :o
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So, I picked up my 03 Connie back in late August 2012. Huge upgrade from my tooth cutter (1984 KZ700A1). I started the tank gage fix this evening and I came upon a pig tail between the tank gage female plug and the male bike side plug. Coming off this pig tail is female plug with two wires with an adjustable resistor on it. I know it is very possible that a previous owner may have installed this, but it looks very factory or at least dealer installed. Has any one else come across this? It was set for 176ish Ohms.(http://)
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I used a 220 ohm resistor instead of adjustable. My gas gauge is now pretty accurate. Yes, yours was put there by the previous owner to make the reading more accurate.
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So, I picked up my 03 Connie back in late August 2012. Huge upgrade from my tooth cutter (1984 KZ700A1). I started the tank gage fix this evening and I came upon a pig tail between the tank gage female plug and the male bike side plug. Coming off this pig tail is female plug with two wires with an adjustable resistor on it. I know it is very possible that a previous owner may have installed this, but it looks very factory or at least dealer installed. Has any one else come across this? It was set for 176ish Ohms.
Looks like you've got Totally Wired Cycles fuel gauge adjuster installed. They're no longer available, unfortunately. It should have a plastic sleeve covering it to protect it.
I have one on my bike. I've got it adjusted so I hit my reserve just as the gauge goes into the red zone.
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It was covered with a shrink wrap, I was able to pull it off fairly easy. I thank you for the in put, Jason on the great north. coast.
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I'm glad I found this - my fuel gauge is driving me nuts. Its showing 1/4 after only 120 miles. Last time it showed empty I put 4 gallon in. Resistance is useful...
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I'm glad I found this - my fuel gauge is driving me nuts. Its showing 1/4 after only 120 miles. Last time it showed empty I put 4 gallon in. Resistance is useful...
cugsy, easy fix. 220 ohm resistor.
http://c10mods.blogspot.com/2011/07/c10-fuel-gauge-modification.html (http://c10mods.blogspot.com/2011/07/c10-fuel-gauge-modification.html)
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Someone here turned me unto a resister, THANKS. It makes a world of difference.
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Looks like you've got Totally Wired Cycles fuel gauge adjuster installed. They're no longer available, unfortunately. It should have a plastic sleeve covering it to protect it.
I have one on my bike. I've got it adjusted so I hit my reserve just as the gauge goes into the red zone.
I also have the Totally Wired version. It's a shame they went out of business they had some neat stuff. I also have their aux fuse panel which was a really nice piece of kit.
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I did the ohm fix and its miles better - literally...
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Does anybody have a pic of the Totally Wired version?
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I might have fixed the gauge but I'm only getting 38mpg. Yik!
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You have to wire tie the adjustable resistor to your right wrist to help with the mpg's.
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What's really annoying is riding at a sedate 65mph ..ish and then being overtaken or tailgated by a nun in a Fiat. As soon as I speed up to a happy speed I know das polizie are waiting. Not fair :'(
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Nuns have the edge: nobody's going to write one a ticket!
It's good to have friends in high places. 8)
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If you're going to take your cluster out, you can mount the resistor right on the terminals on the back of the speedo.
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What's really annoying is riding at a sedate 65mph ..ish and then being overtaken or tailgated by a nun in a Fiat. As soon as I speed up to a happy speed I know das polizie are waiting. Not fair :'(
Don't worry. The FIAT will break down looong before your Connie runs out of gas. ;)
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Cugsy; As long as the policeman isn't right behind you, ya can use a system to enjoy.
Cruise in the straight area's. Play in the curves..
Ride safe, Ted