Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => The Bike - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: TallyRex on January 31, 2013, 01:34:06 AM
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Just wanted to introduce myself after trading in my 2010 Ducati Streetfighter S 2 weeks ago for a new Black 2012 Connie. I live in Tallahassee and ride about 10,000 miles a year.
I've been riding since the late 60s and have had many bikes and still own an 03 ZRX and an 06 Interceptor. I'll never sell the ZRX but I may exchange the Viffer for something else. I used to think it was smooth and refined until I put some miles on the C-14. ;D
I've been reading lots of posts on this forum to familiarize myself with some of the "trouble" spots with the bike and have learned a great deal, but have a few questions.
I plan on doing the 600 mile service this weekend, and wanted to know if there are any tips you could offer. I've never had a shaft drive B4, but changing the gear oil doesn't seem to be complicated, and I've changed oil/filter many times. Is there anything I need to be wary of?
Don't have a shop manual yet and the owner's manual is a joke. You'd think after all these years of people making fun of Japanese bike manuals, that they would get a native English speaking person to write these books. The Japanese car manuals are fine. Makes me wonder.
I'd like to adjust the rear brake so that I don't have to push the peddle down so far, but the manual only discusses adjustment for the rear brake light. Any tips?
I don't like to use the front brake while on low traction surfaces, grass, gravel, dirt, but the linked brakes don't offer much choice. Anyone have a problem with this? Any easy way to un link the brakes?
Well, thanks for reading and for any advice that you give.
Kenny
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Welcome Kenny!
The only tips that I can offer about changing the gear oil are these. Remove the filler cap first (it can be kinda hard on some C14s and it would be very bad if you removed the drain plug first and then drained the oil only to find out that you're having problems getting the filler cap off). When you reinstall the drain plug do not tighten it too much, it's easy to strip and a few guys here have found that out the hard way.
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Pity about buying one of the slower colors, but what the heck you're here now... It's always possible to change your colors, of course. ZG was so ashamed of black he's going green (and not in an environmental way). Welcome by the way...
- Don't overfill the rear drive. It doesn't take much fluid at all. A 1/4 or so inch below the filler is fine.
- Don't spin the rear wheel while filling. It will give a false reading and the extra fluid will wind up on the outside of the wheel.
- Don't over tighten the drain bolt
- You can reuse the drain washer...
- There isn't much you can do for the rear brake. You could try bleeding it a bit from both bleeders on the rear caliper. Sometimes that helps.
I don't have traction control on my bike but I would think it would help in the situations you describe, unlike my Prius. Others that have it can surely chime in on your questions regarding that and the linked brakes.
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Pity about buying one of the slower colors, but what the heck you're here now... It's always possible to change your colors, of course. ZG was so ashamed of black he's going green (and not in an environmental way).
Oh Sparky... :battle:
Welcome to the forum TR. :chugbeer:
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I will parrot Conrads comments because he is right on. When changing rear diff oil the first few times you will notice many sparkles. First time will have a huge amount and by the third time all will be normal. Also the rear diff is easy to over fill and it doesn’t hold a lot to start with. I think a quart of gear oil will do about four servicing’s. I keep both oil plug washers on hand. I used to change them every time I changed the oil but have not replaced the last couple of oil changes just to see what happens. What I found is nothing happens, ie, no leaks.
The diff oil filler cap is on very tight. First time I used a quarter and a vise grip to turn it off. Bent the quarter. Now I just use a very fat blade screw driver.
The oil filter is one of the things which someone does a good job of torqueing. I bought a filter wrench which goes on the end of the filter and used an long extension to get the ratchet wrench on the outside of the front lower fairing. The filter is on tight so don’t knock the bike off the center side twisting it off. (kidding)
Engine oil will have a few flacks but dim compared to the diff oil. Be care when tighten up bolts on the diff and oil pan. Make them snug not gorilla tight. The threads won’t take gorilla tight. The book calls for 22 ft lbs on the oil pan drain bolt. While not a lot of torque, I question if being that tight is necessary.
By the way, it matters not the color of your C14. They all put a grin on your face!
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Welcome. Congrats and enjoy it.
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Just wanted to introduce myself after trading in my 2010 Ducati Streetfighter S 2 weeks ago for a new Black 2012 Connie. I live in Tallahassee and ride about 10,000 miles a year.
I've been riding since the late 60s and have had many bikes and still own an 03 ZRX
Welcome!
(And my second bike was a 2000 ZRX :) )
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Thanks, all ;D
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Congrats & welcome!
Not much u can do about the linked brakes, but u can adjust the rr brake pedal. I had to cut a qtr inch or so off the plunger rod to get it to where I wanted it. Like u, I had a VFR too ('03). To b honest the linked brakes on the VFR are much better. I was surpprised how bad the linked brakes were on the C14 compared to my 10yr old VFR. This is a common complaint for us 2010 & newer owners. Just take her up to 10k rpm in 3rd & you'll forget all about the linked brakes ;D
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Congrats and welcome to the club. Did the dealer perform the rear brake recall? Maybe at that time you can address the brake pedal adjustment options.
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Welcome out. Ride safe.
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Welcome enjoy your new bike.
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Congrats and welcome to the club. Did the dealer perform the rear brake recall? Maybe at that time you can address the brake pedal adjustment options.
I didn't know that there was a recall and I have no idea whether it was done. I'll ask them. Thanks
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Congrats & welcome!
Not much u can do about the linked brakes, but u can adjust the rr brake pedal. I had to cut a qtr inch or so off the plunger rod to get it to where I wanted it. Like u, I had a VFR too ('03). To b honest the linked brakes on the VFR are much better. I was surpprised how bad the linked brakes were on the C14 compared to my 10yr old VFR. This is a common complaint for us 2010 & newer owners. Just take her up to 10k rpm in 3rd & you'll forget all about the linked brakes ;D
Agreed, the VFR linked brakes were unobtrusive and strong
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Well, I did the service yesterday. Used the quarter with vice grips for the gear oil and didn't have a problem, but I wish the filler was on top and not the side. I didn't notice any metal in the old fluid. I had a tougher time removing the oil filter, but after much cursing, finally was able to get that done too. Also attached a battery tender pigtail. At least now I can safely bring her up to 6,000.
Also ordered a V-Stream, throttlemeister and risers. Next up will be some sort of tip over protection. Thanks, again for your welcome and tips. ;D
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Welcome Tally-R ..... I am in Orlando so if you ever ride this direction let me know in advance and maybe wee can meet somewhere. And BTW, I am a Kenny as well. :D
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Well, I did the service yesterday. Used the quarter with vice grips for the gear oil and didn't have a problem, but I wish the filler was on top and not the side. I didn't notice any metal in the old fluid. I had a tougher time removing the oil filter, but after much cursing, finally was able to get that done too. Also attached a battery tender pigtail. At least now I can safely bring her up to 6,000.
Also ordered a V-Stream, throttlemeister and risers. Next up will be some sort of tip over protection. Thanks, again for your welcome and tips. ;D
Canyon Cages are what you want.
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Welcome Tally-R ..... I am in Orlando so if you ever ride this direction let me know in advance and maybe wee can meet somewhere. And BTW, I am a Kenny as well. :D
Don't get to ride south too much, but I'll be flying in to Orl for a business meeting next month. At least I won't forget your name.
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Canyon Cages are what you want.
Yeah, been reading up on them, but haven't seen a price, even on their webpage. Thinking of some highway pegs also
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Yeah, been reading up on them, but haven't seen a price, even on their webpage. Thinking of some highway pegs also
Love mine with highway pegs. Really makes the 500+ mile days much more comfortable.
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http://www.mcenterprisesusa.com/products/search/dsp_searchForm.cfm (http://www.mcenterprisesusa.com/products/search/dsp_searchForm.cfm)
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http://www.mcenterprisesusa.com/products/search/dsp_searchForm.cfm (http://www.mcenterprisesusa.com/products/search/dsp_searchForm.cfm)
Thanks, I saw their website, but can't find a price. Do you know how much for the front and rear?
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Talley pm Ryan from MCE
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=9353.375#lastPost (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=9353.375#lastPost)
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Thanks, Pink -PM sent to Ryan