Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C10, aka Kawasaki Concours - The Original => The Bike - C10 => Topic started by: atye on January 29, 2013, 01:14:51 PM
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Just picked this 2004 C10 up. I'm told it was sitting for about a year (title pawn broker had it). I've owned 3 Kawasaki's before (SR650, LTD1000B2, ZRX1100) but this is my first Connie.
It runs like a million dollars. The carbs seem perfect, the engine is dead quiet at highway speeds, and everything is great. My initial drive home was about 75 miles of I-20 in West Georgia/Atlanta and it ran like a new machine. It does need a clutch m/c rebuild (won't release pressure), a speedo cable, front brake light switch, and the coolant temp gauge is dead, but that seems to be it so far. It shows 35k miles, but who knows since the speedo cable is broken?
What should I do as far as a good PM to the bike? Oil change, flush and fill the cooling system, sure, but what else? Do I need to do anything to the final drive? Are there any areas that need special attention on this model?
Any pointers will be greatly appreciated!
Alex
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Connies are solid high mile capeable bikes with little more than routine maintenance. Other than the basics you've already mentioned, check for hydrolock and get overflow tubes installed in the float bowls (see SISF, read the stickies on hydrolock). Adjust the valves, check for head bearing play or notchieness. You've had other bikes, so I doubt much of this is new info as it is a reminder. Oh, the bike has 2 oil drain plugs, don't learn the way I did!
A few farkles on the bike, in case you don't know; The stainless screws in the clutch and brake master cylinders, bar risers, the Givi top box (of course), cruise control, others will find more, Nice bike!
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Congrats on the new scoot. Looks to be in great shape. Yep, change all the fluids front to back and do a valve adjust. Check the brake pads and take a close look at the tires. That rear looks thin in the picture. Lot's of people on the forum run fuel filters so I would consider that. Change the plugs and check the air filter. Lot's of folks use the K&N air filter me included. As you get deeper into your addiction you will find the after market for this bike is considerable and there are many ways to spend your money. With only 35K the bike has a lot of life left in it. It really is a great bike. I've had my '02 now for going on 9 years and have never had a lick of trouble with it that I couldn't figure out with the help of this forum. Ride safe.
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I did some you tube maintenance video's. Start here, and check out the others as needed If you own a Concours ZG1000 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxO3pyDDeY8#) Steve
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Thanks for all of the helpful responses!
;D
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I change oil & adjust valves EVERY SINGLE YEAR - whether it needs it or not! Now - that's roughly every 10K miles, but virtually all my riding is Hwy/Secondary rds vs commuitng.
Odd note - these like higher tire pressure than what Id had on previous bikes: 40/42 seems to be the agreed upon number F/R.
F. Wheel bearings - are a bit small for their load, mine died at 25K, and replacing them again at 50K this winter when I do my ANNUAL oil and valve thing.
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Welcome to the COGdom. Most have answered your questions.
Next step,, Come ride with us....
Where are you located?
Ride safe, Ted
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Thanks again for the tips.
Ted, I am located in Peachtree City, GA, about 30 minutes below the ATL airport.
I'm looking forward to putting lots of miles on the Connie this year!
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A few things to consider:
Tip Over Bars: Strongly consider getting these for your Connie. The mirrors, footpegs, and side/front fairings will thank you.
About the driver pegs: If the previous owner hasn't done this already, you'll note that they only fold up about 45 degrees. this can be a problem if the bike goes over. I found it helpful to grind off the 'tab' on the footpeg that keeps the pegs from folding up completely, so that is rounded off and the pegs can fold completely up. This may help save the peg if the bike goes over (unless you already have tipover bars).
Handlebar vibrations: If this is bothering you, do a forum search on various solutions to this. This is a well discussed topic. I went with packing my handlebars and getting gel grips myself, but there are several good ways to address this issue. This might also be a good time to think about bar risers...
Front Fork Brace: If your bike doesn't have one of these already, consider getting one. Again, forum search is your friend.
Visit SISF's site: His carb kits, overflow tubes, and '7th gear' unit are da bomb! You may find something you like there...
https://sites.google.com/site/shoodabenengineering/ (https://sites.google.com/site/shoodabenengineering/)
Also, Murphskits: Great source for various things for the Connie: http://www.murphskits.com (http://www.murphskits.com). Great service as well!
I love Bergman's quick release tank kit! This makes accessing the plugs/valves just a little easier. Murphs sells these.
TCro and Snarf have some nice things for the Connie too (Stick Coil kits, new shift linkage, etc.). See the 'For Sale' subforum for info.
Bafflectomy: Do a forum search on this topic, and make up your own mind. Doing this lowered my handlebar vibes just slightly, gave me a slight boost to performance, and most importantly: My Bike Sounds Meaner Now...
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Pics do show a fork brace, I missed that in my quick list of farkles already on the bike...
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Atye, the Run with the Wolf Ride is coming up soon. Look into going. You wil not be disappointed!
Compared to my Texas Location, It is relatively close to you.
Someone else can give you the dates info.
Ride safe, Ted
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atye--- before you get too deeply involved with the clutch problem, make sure the tiny relief port in the clutch master cylinder is not obstructed. If it is, it can cause clutch slippage. Good luck with your new purchase.
Tom Taylor COG#7173
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atye--- before you get too deeply involved with the clutch problem, make sure the tiny relief port in the clutch master cylinder is not obstructed. If it is, it can cause clutch slippage. Good luck with your new purchase.
Tom Taylor COG#7173
Tom,
I am 99% sure that is my problem. I flushed the master cylinder Saturday, but didn't get a chance to go for a test ride. I had a similar blockage issue with a front caliper on a Suzuki RE-5 (anyone remember those?) back in the '80's.
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I think th RE was a Rotary?
You had ONE??
if so,,,, I always wondered how they ran? Powerful for the displacement? Gas mileage suck?
Ride safe, Ted
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No one mentioned your temp gauge from what I see. The gauge will most likely read lower than what you are used to seeing when it is operating "correctly". It usually hangs out just above the first mark (1/8") to about one third across the gauge. It will kind of just move around in this range.
If it is not working at all, there is a push on connection under the gas tank that may have come loose or off. Sometimes the little rivet on the sending switch that holds the connector tab on gets loose and can be snugged up with a center punch and small hammer. Be gentle around the thermostat housing. There is a large o-ring that turns to black bubble gum inside and can leak if disturbed. Also, there is an o-ring where it connects to the coolant log (just below the housing) that gets abused when taking the valve cover on and off and it can leak to. I would highly recommend ordering these from Murph to keep on hand as they are inexpensive but a must have. I actually carry them on the bike with my tools.
Put some miles on the bike and then...
I would also consider changing the fork oil. It is usually ignored or put off way to long. I think your year requires removing them. Not really that hard but allow a few hours the first time. If you want to replace the seals, buy OEM not K&L. Non OEM at the forks and you are inviting a leak. Since you have them off it would be a good time to change or cut a section off to stiffen the front end (assuming the still OEM) if you are getting that horrendous stock front end dive. Most riders switch to 10w or 15w fork oil. Some, like myself, have cut off 5" from the soft coil section (close wound) and replaced it with the same length of PVC pipe for a more stiff (and better handling) front end.
The shock fluid can be changed too.
The rear end can be changed while on the side stand. Empty it after a ride and fill it back up till it comes to the bottom of the hole. One quart of good synthetic will give you more than three fluid changes. I change mine annually.
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I think th RE was a Rotary?
You had ONE??
if so,,,, I always wondered how they ran? Powerful for the displacement? Gas mileage suck?
Ride safe, Ted
ONE, no... Two, yes! (a 1975 and a 1976)
Wankel rotary powered, 500cc, single-plug, single-rotor.
Smoothest engine ever, period, no arguments. The motor was bolted to the frame with solid mounts and there was zero "buzz". The tach went to 8500 (I think), but it would rev as far as you felt comfortable, probably around 10-12K. Hope to own another one in the future.
It was heavy, but torquey as hell. My wife (at the time) had a new 1993 or so Suzuki GS500E and they were comparable 0-85MPH or so. MPG was not great and was one of the original reasons they "flopped". I worked for Panasonic when I had this bike running back in the mid-90's and the Japanese techs were fascinated by the bike, saying that they had never seen this model in Japan before...LOL
Here is my 1976 Suzuki RE-5A after sitting for a few years, right before I sold to a chap in England who wanted one for a full museum restoration.