Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => Accessories and modifications - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: Broz on January 27, 2013, 03:18:26 PM
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Gents,
Was wondering if you could advise on the easiest way to run a wire from the battery to some easily accessible/ tucked away place on the C14. I also plan on using it for a small air compressor in the event of a flat. It requires access to a 15amp fuse (so i figured wire straight to battery) and will easily blow the 5 amp accessory outlet. Thanks for your help.
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Gents, Was wondering if you could advise on the easiest way to run a wire from the battery to some easily accessible/ tucked away place on the C14. I also plan on using it for a small air compressor in the event of a flat. It requires access to a 15amp fuse (so i figured wire straight to battery) and will easily blow the 5 amp accessory outlet. Thanks for your help.
My Battery Tender Jr. came with a pigtail and it hooked right up, perfectly. One to the frame and one to the hot on the battery. Then route it out the side, above the oil tank (as indicated). Comes with a cap when not in use, and doesn't get in the way or even show all that much. No drilling, no cuts, no mods.
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Thanks Max. I didn't think I could get it out the battery box area. Thought I would have to run it thru the fairing up towards the handle bars.
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Thanks Max. I didn't think I could get it out the battery box area. Thought I would have to run it thru the fairing up towards the handle bars.
Yeah, I was all ready for a major fight and BAM, it was done. That doesn't happen all that often :)
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Just be careful when routing the wiring, be careful not to pinch anything. I also did mine exactly like Max, works great too.
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(http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/bb336/jaywilcox/IMG00375-20110701-1704-1.jpg)
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I traced mine towards the back tracing the shape of the battery covers. Then I use the cap strap to hold it to the brake lines, beside the frame, near the foot peg.
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Mine bikes don't stay parked long enough, my battery tender is a dust collector (http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/bigthumb.gif)
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Must be nice!!
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I run my heated vest off the battery, it exits the battery compartment on the left side and the lead tucks nicely inside part of the subframe. There is room to get another wire for a battery tender thru the same routing.
Forget those who say they ride too much to need a battery tender. I ride quite a bit myself but there is no harm in using a modern battery tender on our batteries...in fact, it appears a well-conditioned battery will give you max life.
YMMV.
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(http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/bb336/jaywilcox/IMG00375-20110701-1704-1.jpg)
+2
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My Battery Tender Jr. came with a pigtail and it hooked right up, perfectly. One to the frame and one to the hot on the battery. Then route it out the side, above the oil tank (as indicated). Comes with a cap when not in use, and doesn't get in the way or even show all that much. No drilling, no cuts, no mods.
Max, why to the frame instead of the negative terminal?
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I run my heated vest off the battery, it exits the battery compartment on the left side and the lead tucks nicely inside part of the subframe. There is room to get another wire for a battery tender thru the same routing.
Forget those who say they ride too much to need a battery tender. I ride quite a bit myself but there is no harm in using a modern battery tender on our batteries...in fact, it appears a well-conditioned battery will give you max life.
YMMV.
I agree but I usually ride every day! And my C14 battery is 2 years, 11 months old. Its been through arctic conditions of the rockies, summer heat pf the Phoenix desert, and my hot garage in FL. Still kickin' it! Although my Tundra needs a new bat. Of course it sits longer than the Connie =)
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Mine bikes don't stay parked long enough, my battery tender is a dust collector (http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/bigthumb.gif)
+1 I still have the 3 year old OEM battery and no problems. If I have to replace it this year, so be it. That said I have a hot wire running up to and under the right top fairing to an accessory relay (some day I'll put a fuze block in there) but if I were to put a battery tender pig tail that's where I'd put it.
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+1 I still have the 3 year old OEM battery and no problems. If I have to replace it this year, so be it. That said I have a hot wire running up to and under the right top fairing to an accessory relay (some day I'll put a fuze block in there) but if I were to put a battery tender pig tail that's where I'd put it.
My main reason for the pigtail isn't for the battery tender (because I ride about 5 days a week) but for the portable air compressor, so I can quickly access a power source that will not blow the 5 amp accessory outlet. Looks like the easiest fix is what several have already stated, right below the battery box. If I was going to pull the side fairing off and gas tank maybe there are a few better locations.
Still interested in seeing what most guys are doing.
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My main reason for the pigtail isn't for the battery tender (because I ride about 5 days a week) but for the portable air compressor, so I can quickly access a power source that will not blow the 5 amp accessory outlet. Looks like the easiest fix is what several have already stated, right below the battery box. If I was going to pull the side fairing off and gas tank maybe there are a few better locations.
Still interested in seeing what most guys are doing.
Well ok then. That's what my accessory relay is for. It powers my Rostra cruise control and I re-wired my accessory socket to that relay so I could also power a portable compressor.
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Well ok then. That's what my accessory relay is for. It powers my Rostra cruise control and I re-wired my accessory socket to that relay so I could also power a portable compressor.
So did you replace the wire that runs to the accessory outlet with a larger guage wire, and larger fuse? What is "your accessory relay?" how difficult a job is this? Pigtail to the battery box and splicing a 2 pin SAE onto the aircompressor instead of cigarette lighter attachment seems pretty easy, than you kill 2 birds w/ 1 stone. I ask because I dont have a clue about most electrical wiring, not because I'm questioning your methods. One thing I have realized is I will probably eventually want a Fuzeblock for the eventual farkels. Thanks,
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So did you replace the wire that runs to the accessory outlet with a larger guage wire, and larger fuse? What is "your accessory relay?" how difficult a job is this? Pigtail to the battery box and splicing a 2 pin SAE onto the aircompressor instead of cigarette lighter attachment seems pretty easy, than you kill 2 birds w/ 1 stone. Thanks,
Used a 12 volt 30 amp auto relay from O'Reilly's. Heavy gauge wires directly to the battery (I don't remember exactly what gauge). Then I used the original outlet connections to activate the relay. Then heavier wires from the relay with a 15 amp inline fuse to the outlet. The Rostra has an inline fuse as well. I also hard wired a micro USB adaptor to power either my phone or my Garmin gps all to that same relay. Like I said, someday I will replace all that with a nice Fuze Block.
Something like this one: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BWD0/R4176/N0956.oap?ck=Search_relay+kits+-+universal_-1_-1&keyword=relay+kits+-+universal (http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BWD0/R4176/N0956.oap?ck=Search_relay+kits+-+universal_-1_-1&keyword=relay+kits+-+universal)
With a connector: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BWD0/PT193.oap?evaritm=BWD%2B--%2BR4176&rpl=1 (http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BWD0/PT193.oap?evaritm=BWD%2B--%2BR4176&rpl=1)
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Since I was installing the relay for the Rostra anyway it was a no brainer to use it for my other accessories as well.
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Powerlet has an outlet that can be attached to the rear frame above the passenger foot pegs that works real well. Direct wiring to the battery with an inline fuse. A bit costly but well worth it. Run battery charger off it and heated clothing if I want.
http://www.powerlet.com/shop-by-vehicle/kawasaki/2011/kawasaki-concours-gtr1400-14-2007-present/1/1#formtop (http://www.powerlet.com/shop-by-vehicle/kawasaki/2011/kawasaki-concours-gtr1400-14-2007-present/1/1#formtop)
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I hooked up a Battery tender pigtail as one of the first things I did when I got the bike. It is currently sitting behind the battery panel
not in use. I will hook up a "waterproof" fuse box somewhere to run all the future electrics.. I found a cool waterproof dual USB port to go in left position in dash panel and would be perfect for Iphone and GPS upfront
http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Dual-Charger-Socket/dp/B0082CXEI8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1359398306&sr=8-3&keywords=waterproof+usb+socket. (http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Dual-Charger-Socket/dp/B0082CXEI8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1359398306&sr=8-3&keywords=waterproof+usb+socket.)
or something like this one http://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Phone-Outlet-Handlebar-Bracket/dp/B009KLVGLW/ref=sr_1_23?ie=UTF8&qid=1359398565&sr=8-23&keywords=waterproof+usb+socket (http://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Phone-Outlet-Handlebar-Bracket/dp/B009KLVGLW/ref=sr_1_23?ie=UTF8&qid=1359398565&sr=8-23&keywords=waterproof+usb+socket)
running from Battery area into my removable Givi tank bag... still thinking this out...
I know I do NOT need heated clothing I have more than adequate clothing to ride into high 20s.....
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Max, why to the frame instead of the negative terminal?
Because the negative terminal is way on the other side of the battery. Plus, everything else negative is all right there on the frame, conveniently.
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(http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/bb336/jaywilcox/IMG00375-20110701-1704-1.jpg)
This is the perfect place for my needs. There is a fairing support right up under the painted fairing, where you can zip tie the excess if you are using a longer length of wire. As others mentioned, just don't pinch the wire under the edge of that black metal plate. It only has a small area that you can use to run a wire.
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I have generally been very happy with the Battery Tender Jr.. I use it every day to keep the battery in top shape. Unfortunately, mine recently failed after using it for 3 years. The lights started going haywire, blinking in patterns that made no sense and were not in the instructions. I had one at work, so I brought it home and swapped the two and it acted normally. So I swapped the old one back in and it acted strange again. I have heard the warranty is a hassle and expensive, so I probably won't bother. I just thought I would pass this info along.
I still think using a battery tender is a good idea and can potentially greatly extend the life of a battery (and I will get a new one)... I just wish my $25 investment lasted a few years longer.
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You may have just got a bad one Max---a couple of mine are approaching 8 years with no issues.
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You may have just got a bad one Max---a couple of mine are approaching 8 years with no issues.
Yeah, it happens with lots of stuff. I typically try to assess based on reviews. The main problem is that few products remain in production for many years without major changes. So while I am disappointed, I already have another of the same brand.... although it looks quite different now. Whether they are better made or worse made, only time will tell.