Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => The Bike - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: stevewfl on January 21, 2013, 06:04:16 PM
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Guys I have to decide quick what to do with this thing. My heart tells keep this biatch and get the warranty and run it past 100K miles, and common sense tells me to take the easy way out.
I have only till Feb 10 to decide, it turns 3 years old that day and I will no longer have an opportunity for an unlimited mileage warranty.
Please vote in the poll above, thanks for your input!
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Sell your bike to a good home and buy a new one, Steve.
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I voted for the extended warranty option, I could see you ending up with a lemon with bad KIPASSARMA ;)
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Being that you put alot of miles on em and also keep em pretty much stock I say sell her Steve and get yourself a new leftover black 2012 with the black wheels. 8)
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Selling bikes is not easy right now. My Goldwing and Concours are both sitting on dealers lots on consignment. I went ahead and bought the warranty on the Concours to help sell it, and I have priced it aggressively (and the bike is immaculate). I feel certain it will sell in the next couple of months, but it has been there for six weeks now and no sale.
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Being that you put alot of miles on em and also keep em pretty much stock I say sell her Steve and get yourself a new leftover black 2012 with the black wheels. 8)
Thanks guys, and ZG above - my Connie is a mileage work horse only. My other type bikes get more in mods than the bikes cost =)
(http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/orangebike.jpg)
My oil filler and gas caps and such on my other bikes cost more than all the mods on my C14 combined ;D
(http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/R1%20stuff/DSCN1258.jpg)
On the fence about being rid of this old C14 and appreciate the input
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1)Get the extended warranty. <------ (this will help you sale it)
2)List it.
3)When it sales, buy yourself a new one.
8)
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Assuming he's not garaged in FL. If so, the price of the extended warranty may be a bit steeper than what the rest of us pay..
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Throw it in the gutta, and get you a nutta.
I did that with my last few bikes, and don't regret it.
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Assuming he's not garaged in FL. If so, the price of the extended warranty may be a bit steeper than what the rest of us pay..
Mike (bugnut) bought an extended warranty for his FL bike elsewhere on the cheap. I don't know if he's tried to use it
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Assuming he's not garaged in FL. If so, the price of the extended warranty may be a bit steeper than what the rest of us pay..
The bike is garaged in Floriduh. I think the state of Florida considers the extended warranty to be insurance. For it to be honored for a Fla resident, it must be purchased in FLA from a dealer. I'm not sure of the particulars. You might wanna talk to Mike on that. Cheaper would be gooder.
[on topic]
It is always fun to get something new, this coming from a guy that has 175k miles on a fourteen year C10.
Something to think about that is what I use for this kind of decision, how many trips, and/or nice(think New Zealand here) trips can you go on with the $$ not spent.
You could always flip a quarter, this works for me. :-\
Hey, you could sell it to me super ultra ridiculously cheap. Now that's a good idea ;) except I'm not really sure that that is the direction I want to go for my next bike.
Good Luck, and see y'all Sunday. :thumbs:
Edit to add: Steve, I like the new sig line. How true. :thumbs: :thumbs: :thumbs:
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For those who have to pay the dealer for all the routine maintenance items it is probably advantageous to trade/sell at the 30,000 mile mark prior to having the valves checked. When you factor in that expense along with lubing swingarms, steering heads, flushing all the fluids, etc. It is easier to justify the upgrade.
If you do all your own maintenance and have the free time to take care of it, then it is hard to justify replacing the bike for the same model bike. There are so many bikes I want to try, it would be very hard to replace a bike with the same.
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For those who have to pay the dealer for all the routine maintenance items it is probably advantageous to trade/sell at the 30,000 mile mark prior to having the valves checked. When you factor in that expense along with lubing swingarms, steering heads, flushing all the fluids, etc. It is easier to justify the upgrade.
If you do all your own maintenance and have the free time to take care of it, then it is hard to justify replacing the bike for the same model bike. There are so many bikes I want to try, it would be very hard to replace a bike with the same.
Nice input and great points. I do my own maintenance except valve checks. I stopped doing them back in my track time days because they consumed a whole weekend for me, then chasing shims, etc.
The warranty at a FL cost, plus all those parts that need replacing under 48K scheduled maintenance will be well under 2K and a few weekends worth of time.
The hit I'd take selling will be bigger, but not consume my time.
Another thing no one has noted is this is my first sport touring bike, been to Canada in the North, Cali in the west, and over the half the US states, its got some sentimental value I was thinking hard about after i posted.
Still on the fence though!
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/hijack.
I, too, am nearing the end of my factory warranty. Is that other tread still up and running as far as the pricing that it mentioned, or is there another way you guys are getting your extended warranties?
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/hijack.
I, too, am nearing the end of my factory warranty. Is that other tread still up and running as far as the pricing that it mentioned, or is there another way you guys are getting your extended warranties?
Peek here: http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=225.0 (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=225.0)
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I'll get a new one in two years when my three years is up because they should have CC by then, other wise I don't see a reason, since I did farkle mine alot I plan on striping it before replacement.
I want a Ivory bike. I would hold on till CC came out, your not going to get $hit for it anyway.
I guess it depends what you could get for it $????
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I am doing just that. If everything works out my 2010 is gone and 2013 will be in it's place.
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The bike is garaged in Floriduh. I think the state of Florida considers the extended warranty to be insurance. For it to be honored for a Fla resident, it must be purchased in FLA from a dealer. I'm not sure of the particulars. You might wanna talk to Mike on that. Cheaper would be gooder.
[on topic]
It is always fun to get something new, this coming from a guy that has 175k miles on a fourteen year C10.
Something to think about that is what I use for this kind of decision, how many trips, and/or nice(think New Zealand here) trips can you go on with the $$ not spent.
You could always flip a quarter, this works for me. :-\
Hey, you could sell it to me super ultra ridiculously cheap. Now that's a good idea ;) except I'm not really sure that that is the direction I want to go for my next bike.
Good Luck, and see y'all Sunday. :thumbs:
Edit to add: Steve, I like the new sig line. How true. :thumbs: :thumbs: :thumbs:
Inspirational thread right there, thanks (http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/avatars/dblthumb2.gif)
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What you can get for it now will probably be significantly more than you will when it gets to 100,000 miles.
No one seems interested in my Wing with 172000 and it looks and runs as good or better than a new one.
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You know my answer already (I think). My 2010 is at the dealer on consignment and my new leftover 2011 Black is sitting beside it for now. I paid $12,500 OTD and there are better deals than that if you look hard enough.
I will be buying a tire rim insurance plan (5 years unlimited mileage)from them for $320. It covers road hazard on the tires as long as they are stickerable (have tread left). I ended up with 4 free tires on my 2010 and will not buy another bike without the coverage. I got $192 back after keeping the bike for 2 years. They give you the remainder back.
If Florida has Foremost Insurance I would look into it. They offer full replacement coverage (in any event of a total loss) for the first 2 years of ownership of a "NEW"bike. You "MUST" put new bike on their insurance within 30 days of ownership (was almost a deal breaker after totaling my 2008. When all was said and done I got a check in the mail for $12,300+ for a bike I paid $10,999++.
That is the main reason I will keep buying a new bike every 2 years (at least try to). Last month my 2010 was worth around $14,000 if stolen or totaled and now it is worth "ACV" around $7500.
Good luck Steve.
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It doesn't make sense to sell a '10 (or newer) C14 and buy a brand new C14.
1) Outside of color, the bikes are identical.
2) You take a huge hit on depreciation
3) There is no such thing as "new bike smell"!
If you are going to sell the bike to avoid the cost of a valve adjustment, you might as well sell a newish car when it is time to replace the tires!
If it is time to get the valves adjusted and you do, congratulations! You now have a C14 that is fully broken in and performing at peak performance.
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3) There is no such thing as "new bike smell"!
Whoa, I stop at every bike shop on the road just to smell those new bikes. Mmmm like bread in the oven. Fresh rubber, plastic, oil and gas. The only smell better than that, is the new wife smell. Mmmmm, I like that too!
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:rotflmao:
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Whoa, I stop at every bike shop on the road just to smell those new bikes. Mmmm like bread in the oven. Fresh rubber, plastic, oil and gas. The only smell better than that, is the new wife smell. Mmmmm, I like that too!
That smell is gone as soon as you start the bike up and ride for a couple of minutes.
I have had farts more long lasting than new bike smell.
Virginia Jim- better not tail gate me :)
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It doesn't make sense to sell a '10 (or newer) C14 and buy a brand new C14.
1) Outside of color, the bikes are identical.
2) You take a huge hit on depreciation
3) There is no such thing as "new bike smell"!
If you are going to sell the bike to avoid the cost of a valve adjustment, you might as well sell a newish car when it is time to replace the tires!
If it is time to get the valves adjusted and you do, congratulations! You now have a C14 that is fully broken in and performing at peak performance.
I agree in part, but if you are trading it in for a "different" bike then trading it in before paying for a valve adjustment makes sense. I wouldn't equate it to changing tires on a car, but to having the timing belt replaced might be a good comparison.
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That smell is gone as soon as you start the bike up and ride for a couple of minutes.
I have had farts more long lasting than new bike smell.
Virginia Jim- better not tail gate me :)
:rotflmao: or me for that matter...
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Well, I took one look at my KiPass and can't live without it. And i don't want to risk a new one not having the same mad pow-ah's of this KiPass.
Hi Miles haven't even begun yet.... and I've never kept the same bike this long nor done this many miles on one ;D
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I drove to Jacksonville and back saturday , I don't know how you do it with out CC my right hand HURT the base of my neck in the shoulder area HURT.
You must be into S&M ::)
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I drove to Jacksonville and back saturday , I don't know how you do it with out CC my right hand HURT the base of my neck in the shoulder area HURT.
You must be into S&M ::)
Pretty sure Steve has the TM on it.
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I drove to Jacksonville and back saturday , I don't know how you do it with out CC my right hand HURT the base of my neck in the shoulder area HURT.
You must be into S&M ::)
You have to concentrate on keeping your wrists straight. A good pair of leather gloves will hold the throttle without you having a death grip on it. I use a crampbuster if I am doing serious miles on the Connie. I do have a cruise control waiting on the shelf for when I get some leave time and get to tear the bike down to install all my electrical goodies I am saving up.
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Yeah I have a throttlemeister but hardly have to use it except super long days. Wear decent gloves and don't fight the throttle or use a death-grip and you'll be fine.
Disclaimer, when I do 1000-1100 mile days I use the TM. Even before I need it early into the ride :D
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3) There is no such thing as "new bike smell"!
As nice as the new bike smell might be, I prefer the "paid for" smell. I recently bought the extended warranty for my 2010, plan to keep it for a long time along with the numerous farkles.
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As nice as the new bike smell might be, I prefer the "paid for" smell. I recently bought the extended warranty for my 2010, plan to keep it for a long time along with the numerous farkles.
+1, same here.
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Save pennies and the "new bike smell" and "paid for" will be at the same moment in time every purchase.
I agree the new bike smell fades FAST (http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/bigthumb.gif)
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Keep it and get an F800GS ;D Spread the miles between the bikes and lower the "How often" costs ;) I do warn you, the farkles will be much greater for the F8 vs what you have done to the 14. Think of all the new places for pictures 8)
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Save pennies and the "new bike smell" and "paid for" will be at the same moment in time every purchase.
I agree. If I can't pay cash for something I don't buy it, so my 2010 had both aromas as I rode it off the showroom. However, the farkles are never paid off since there is seemingly always something else to buy.
$4,000 and counting, some of which can't be removed from bike (e.g., ECU reflash), which is one reason I have no intention of selling a bike that is now near perfect to me.
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Selling bikes is not easy right now. My Goldwing and Concours are both sitting on dealers lots on consignment. I went ahead and bought the warranty on the Concours to help sell it, and I have priced it aggressively (and the bike is immaculate). I feel certain it will sell in the next couple of months, but it has been there for six weeks now and no sale.
And selling a 3 year old bike with 75k miles is like trying to sell a 3 year old car with 150k miles - you may end up having to sell it real cheap, as most buyers will be turned off by high mileage. It is easy enough to find a 3 year old bike with 7k miles.
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And selling a 3 year old bike with 75k miles is like trying to sell a 3 year old car with 150k miles - you may end up having to sell it real cheap, as most buyers will be turned off by high mileage. It is easy enough to find a 3 year old bike with 7k miles.
Unfortunately true... :(
Best to just keep it or part it out.
(http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/bb336/jaywilcox/idea.gif)
I got it Steve!! Part it out but keep all the bodywork and paint the bodywork Kawi green for a brand new leftover 12 with the black wheels!
;D 8) :chugbeer:
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Ride less, just not fair to many of us that can't ride like you can. Get yourself a new Honda sport touring machine.....oh wait, forgot they don't have an updated one. ;)
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I went with the new bike. I now have a new 2011 C-14 and a 2010 abs with 38,000 miles on it for sale. No bites yet. Hopefully between now and spring time I'll at least get a nibble or two.
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I got it Steve!! Part it out but keep all the bodywork and paint the bodywork Kawi green for a brand new leftover 12 with the black wheels!
;D 8) :chugbeer:
The black-wheeled '12 model prices appear to be waaaaaaayy low. This one is a bit north of FL. A short flight with gear, and be on the way to AK next day! :D
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-2012-Kawasaki-ZG1400-ABS-CONCOURS-1400-SUPER-SPORT-TOURING-11-997-00-/370766785095?_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2648&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&forcev4exp=true (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-2012-Kawasaki-ZG1400-ABS-CONCOURS-1400-SUPER-SPORT-TOURING-11-997-00-/370766785095?_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2648&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&forcev4exp=true)