Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => The Bike - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: c1obrien on December 30, 2012, 06:14:41 PM
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I failed again today. I've found myself in this position before, and it's frigging shameful. I spent the day doing everything I've ever read about to set the bead on a new motorcycle tire. Never had a problem breaking a bead or mounting a new tire on a rim, but I just cannot get the darned thing to set. Tried the ratchet strap. Tried dishwashing soap lubing the thing up. Tried bouncing the tire on the ground. Even pounded on the thing with a rubber mallet. Tried popping 80-100 psi into the tire and the air just whistles out the side. -No go. Won't do the starter fluid and a match thing because, well, I have too much $ invested in the bike and the new tire and it sounds crazy. Tomorrow I will swallow my pride and take it to the local Cycle Gear, where they will set it for free in about ten seconds. Same thing I did last time. Have no idea what I'm NOT doing. Maybe I don't know enough profanity. (...and I know a XXXX of a lot)
chip
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Have you tried inflating with the valve core out of the stem? If so I guess I'd be using some more profanity lol. Good luck, sounds like a pain!!
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Sounds like you did everything right except the dishwasing soap
Try some Ruglyde instead.
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I got the new 90-degree, one-piece valve stems from Murph. Valves can't be removed.
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Really? The cores can't be removed?
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I emailed him, and he wasn't sure. I tried to take them out, but failed. -One of those days.
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Not all is lost, you got to practice cussin' like a pirate. >:(
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eh shop is a safe bet. but the ether thing has worked well for me in the past in a pinch. Amazing how much static pressure a tire will hold.
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Yeah, they can be a problem. The basic reason is that the beads of the tire are collapsing in away from the wheel and so there is too big of a gap so all the air just rushes out as you mention. Coates auto tire machines address this problem with a ring that surrounds the wheel and has a lot of holes in it that are drilled at an angle; a big blast of air is dumped into the bottom of the wheel / tire gap and it cannot get out the top before the tire expands and grabs both edges of the wheel and then it will begin to build pressure. That is tough to duplicate at home though.
What has always worked for me is to stand the wheel / tire up on the floor, attach the air fill hose and fully open the fill valve (with the valve core in place) and gently pick up the wheel and drop is about 2 inches; after a couple of times the tire will make a sufficient seal to start the filling process. I cannot say it will always work but it always has worked for me.... so far.
Brian
I failed again today. I've found myself in this position before, and it's frigging shameful. I spent the day doing everything I've ever read about to set the bead on a new motorcycle tire. Never had a problem breaking a bead or mounting a new tire on a rim, but I just cannot get the darned thing to set. Tried the ratchet strap. Tried dishwashing soap lubing the thing up. Tried bouncing the tire on the ground. Even pounded on the thing with a rubber mallet. Tried popping 80-100 psi into the tire and the air just whistles out the side. -No go. Won't do the starter fluid and a match thing because, well, I have too much $ invested in the bike and the new tire and it sounds crazy. Tomorrow I will swallow my pride and take it to the local Cycle Gear, where they will set it for free in about ten seconds. Same thing I did last time. Have no idea what I'm NOT doing. Maybe I don't know enough profanity. (...and I know a XXXX of a lot)
chip
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Thanks, Brian. Sounds like it's worth a try.
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Good advice Brian. I still recall my Dad bouncing bias truck tires like that. Funny how memories come out the strangest circumstances.
Another thing with a stiff tire that won't seat may be tire temperature. Maybe a good warming with a heat gun will make it a little softer, a little more able to flex. Might help. Might not.
Good luck.
Maybe we should start a section called "connie tire seaters annonymous" for all the different ways to seat tires and all the failed attempts.
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The temp might be part of the problem. I don't heat the shop when I'm not in it, and this time of the year that tire's probably about 35 degrees.
chip
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Take it in the kitchen. The SO won't mind. ;)
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I got the new 90-degree, one-piece valve stems from Murph. Valves can't be removed.
I have the Murph stems as well. The valve core is removable. I just checked (not installed yet). I always remove the core for new tire initial inflation.
Mark
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I got the new 90-degree, one-piece valve stems from Murph. Valves can't be removed.
How did you get the tire off without removing the core? Even if you let all the air out the hard way, once you start breaking the bead you need to let more air out as you push on the side of the tire. Step one for me when changing tires is remove the valve stem core. Second to last step is put it back in followed by inflate to proper pressure. Lube all the way around on the inside of the bead, valve core out, a good compressor with a reasonable ballast tank, something around the tire to push it up against the bead on both sides (like the ratchet strap you mentioned) and it should seal immediately and pop on with moderate pressure. I've done it 50 or 60 times on several different bikes and have never had a problem. I used to use soapy water and never had a problem but since I got my NoMar I use their lube.
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So the cores DO come out on the 90-degree stems. I took the tire to Cycle Gear and he unscrewed it all the way as I had. Then he wiggled on the core, gave it a good tug and it came right out. After that the beads set at around 45 psi. I've taken the cores out of stems before, but never had to do more than just unscrew them. Anyhow, that allowed him to pop more air in at one time, which apparently did the trick. Going to replace the battery in the rear TPS in a day or two, so I'll have a chance to practice what I've learned.
chip
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but never had to do more than just unscrew them.
That answers my question. I guess I've always taken them completely out because that's the way I've seen them do it at tire shops.
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Rhino, I'm embarrassed to admit I didn't think of taking the air out of the tire first. I put her on the center stand, then used a scissor jack to lift the rest of the way. There wasn't any extra room, but just enough. As I lifted it I put blocks under the engine and the center stand. I also used straps from above to keep it stable and worked very slowly. Turned out fine. -But after reading your post I waited until after I put the tire back on the bike to air up, so thanks!
chip
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You mind if I jump in and ask a question? I'm new to the bike and after trying to add some air I can see why you would want a 90 degree valve stem. That's what my Vulcan came with. Is the TPMS in the valve stem and is the replacement 90 degree valve stem have the TPMS? Thanks,
Happy New Year!
Broz
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You mind if I jump in and ask a question? I'm new to the bike and after trying to add some air I can see why you would want a 90 degree valve stem. That's what my Vulcan came with. Is the TPMS in the valve stem and is the replacement 90 degree valve stem have the TPMS? Thanks,
Happy New Year!
Broz
The valve stems are attached to the TPM and the 90 degree versions attach just fine.
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Finally, success.
Today I removed the rear tire to replace the battery in the TPS, a delicate operation but not too technical. Putting the tire on the rim went pretty well. Took the core out of the 90-degree valves and blow in about 80 psi. The bead set right up, POP, POP and I backed off on the air ASAP. Then I filled it to 42 psi. Maybe I'm learning a thing or two thanks to you guys. There's something really great about learning to work on your own bike.
chip
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It feels good afterward, plus you learned something. Time for a beer.