Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => The Bike - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: Glennn on December 18, 2012, 07:51:25 PM
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Hi All,
Like the title says, how much of the fairing on a 2012 do I have to remove to replace the exhaust headers. Is it the whole front end, just the lower half, somewhere inbetween..?
Thanks in advance.
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If you're good, you don't need to pull any fairings. ;)
I've done it several times. But then, I adjusted my own valves too. Yes, I'm that good! 8)
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If you're good, you don't need to pull any fairings. ;)
I've done it several times. But then, I adjusted my own valves too. Yes, I'm that good! 8)
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f197/guppiman/ego.jpg)
Couldn't resist Rob. ;D
I swapped headers without pulling the whole fairing off, just loosen up the bottom, have the right tools, and some patience.
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That would depend on your hand tools.. The more basic they are, the more fairing you will have to remove. If you have extensions and swivels for your sockets, you may not need to remove much if any to remove the header. But i would remove the lower part of the fairing just to make the whole job go smoother.
JJ
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It all comes down to how much clearance you want to have to do the job. Personally, I take as much of the fairing off to see what I'm doing as I can. I don't know about a 2012 model but as long as you document what you take off in what order and keep the screws together you should be ok. Just remember that there are interlocking tabs all over the place. It's not a complex job to remove the fairings and you get to see more of the engine that way.
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It's also easier if you remove of loosen the radiator. Not necessary, but easier.
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(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f197/guppiman/ego.jpg)
Couldn't resist Rob. ;D
I swapped headers without pulling the whole fairing off, just loosen up the bottom, have the right tools, and some patience.
:rotflmao:
Not at all Tom, but after all the BS about ignoring the valves because it's too technical, or dangerous to go inside the engine, I couldn't resist.
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If you're good, you don't need to pull any fairings. ;)
I've done it several times. But then, I adjusted my own valves too. Yes, I'm that good! 8)
If you got it, flaunt it! ;)
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G'day Everyone,
Thanks for the replies. It's not that I am adverse to removing the fairing, just don't want to go all gung-ho and tear the entire thing off only to find out I just needed to remove the bottom. I'm a believer in that no matter how careful you are, every time you pull something off a bike there is a small chance of something going wrong when you put it back on.
So looks like getting the bottom off at least is worth doing and loosening the radiator. Can you remove the radiator without having to drain/refill it?
(Yar yar I know, get a manual. I am, but it won't be here in time)
Oh and maybe last question, seeing as a few of you have done the headers - any hassle/tricks keeping new header gaskets in place while installing the headers, or is it a non-issue?
Thanks again, folks.
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Dab a little oil on the new gaskets and they will stay in place much better.
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I didn't have any problems with the gaskets on mine. They stayed in place and didn't cause any trouble.
In fact, I was going to say 'what gaskets?' ;)
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If the copper gaskets at the exhaust port dont fit tight enough and want to fall out before you can get the header installed, as Spanky mentioned, a little oil, or grease, can give it the stiction needed to hold it in place until the header is installed. Also a wrap or two of scotch tape around the outside center diameter will also snug it up in the head and will melt and burn off almost instantly on startup.
JJ
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It only takes about 5 minutes to remove the fairings once you've done it. Just start from the top and move down. Easy Peasy.
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Excellent thanks, Guys!
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It only takes about 5 minutes to remove the fairings once you've done it. Just start from the top and move down. Easy Peasy.
5 minutes off, 2 hours back on.... :rotflmao: ;)
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5 minutes off, 2 hours back on.... :rotflmao: ;)
It's just a matter of insert tab A into slot B, not rocket surgery.
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It can take that long if you forget about the tabs and get it all back together and have to do it again. Don't ask me how I know this.
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It can take that long if you forget about the tabs and get it all back together and have to do it again. Don't ask me how I know this.
Especially if one forgets to plug in the turn signal on one side.
Don't ask me how I know...
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Yep, that's a good one. Got the T shirt for that.
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I have done the same thing, if you take them off enough it is bound to happen.
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Well I got the fairing off completely without snapping any delicate parts, but I will be amazed if I get it back together without missing at least one screw or two...
Those tabs are a bitch though and I have a new question.
I have a 2012 and I pulled it apart in this order - windshield, glove box, upper fairing/dash, middle rear fairing (gills), bottom fairing, middle front fairing (indicators).
Now getting the middle rear out really tested my nerves with lots of wriggling/flexing - in hindsight I'm wondering if I should have dropped the bottom fairing before pulling the middle rear to make that whole interlocking tab thing easier?
When I put it back together should I first do the middle front, middle rear THEN bottom?
Thanks folks - oh and if anyone has a Yamaha Road Star they want to ask me any questions on FIRE AWAY! ;)
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It's Boxing Day and have now successfully removed the old headers and installed the set of 2006/07 ZX14 headers. So far everything has gone OK and undoing the radiator to let it just hang there was definitely a great assistance cause she is pretty tight. New gaskets and new Fuji lock nuts got a feel for the 13ft/lbs torque on the outer nuts and just did the inner ones through grunts. Started it up sans mufflers to try and detect if I could hear any header leaks and it seems ok at this point. See if I can get the new mufflers on without screwing anything up :)