Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => The Bike - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: Damaged Goods on December 06, 2012, 04:38:38 PM
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Was at my local dealer today talking to them about services that may need to be done, and they told me that I needed a throttle body sync. and that it was pretty important to do this. Has anyone else had this done and is it a necessary, or are they just blowing smoke trying to get more money out of me for this. Additional $250 for this sync.
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I would wait until "valve check" time. Do the valves, spark plugs, throttle body sync and tighten exhaust headers all at once. The plastics have to come off, may as ell do it just once.
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model? year? mileage? undue vibration? poor running?
Did they explain why your bike needed a sync? If that important did they tell you the dire consequences if you don't do it?
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Doubt it needs it.
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09, C14, 22k miles, no vibrations, runs great, no issues that I know of. I commute 100+ miles a day and it seems to run like a top. I do all of my own service and try to stay up with Kawi recomendations as much as possible, or what makes sense.
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09, C14, 22k miles, no vibrations, runs great, no issues that I know of. I commute 100+ miles a day and it seems to run like a top. I do all of my own service and try to stay up with Kawi recomendations as much as possible, or what makes sense.
That is the best mind set to have.
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You can get all the tools needed to do the sync of (almost) half of what they want to charge you to do it.
http://www.carbtune.com/ (http://www.carbtune.com/)
A screwdriver like this:
http://www.bikemaster.com/xtra_reach_screw.html (http://www.bikemaster.com/xtra_reach_screw.html)
and
http://www.harborfreight.com/10-1-2-half-inch-jumbo-curved-clamp-65711.html (http://www.harborfreight.com/10-1-2-half-inch-jumbo-curved-clamp-65711.html)
or
http://www.harborfreight.com/11-inch-long-reach-needlenose-pliers-with-45-offset-jaws-39537.html (http://www.harborfreight.com/11-inch-long-reach-needlenose-pliers-with-45-offset-jaws-39537.html)
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Thanks Pokey and The Pope. I think I will buy the tools and attemp to do this myself as I am a do it myself kind of person. Thanks for the links and I will let you know how it turns out in a couple of weeks.
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I would buy some Vacuum hose (I believe it's 4 mm) then install it on each throttle body and leave it there when you are done with the sync. Route them together and cap them off when you're done and then they will be there when/if you want to do it again.
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I would buy some Vacuum hose (I believe it's 4 mm) then install it on each throttle body and leave it there when you are done with the sync. Route them together and cap them off when you're done and then they will be there when/if you want to do it again.
+1 .... And mark them so you know which one goes to which port.
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A guy on the COG forum sells a nice metal plate with ports for the vacuum tubes so that the Sync is always easy and it looks like a good functional mod.
If it idles smooth and has no vibration then it sounds like an attempt to drum up business...
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I would buy some Vacuum hose (I believe it's 4 mm) then install it on each throttle body and leave it there when you are done with the sync. Route them together and cap them off when you're done and then they will be there when/if you want to do it again.
Yes!!! did this on my old Vstrom 1000, which was sort of difficult, until i met this bike! future synthcs are super easy when exstensions are on.
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I did the sync because I needed to jack my idle up to 1400 to prevent stalls. If you don't have any driveability problems I would not bother. It is not easy to do. In addition to the other tools mentioned you will need an inspection mirror to see the adjustment screw and then learn to manipulate the 90 degree screwdriver in reverse. It will also help to grow a third arm.
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This member sells the plate I mentioned
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?action=profile;u=468 (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?action=profile;u=468)
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My 09 has already 27 k and idle perfect at 1100 rpm, planning to do some maintenance now when the temperatures are lower ,air filter, valve lash check and spark plugs, has any one done this work at this mileaje and replaced the valve cover gasket? does any one have a link where i can print a blank for the valve lash shim map ?
Thanks
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Here is a good shim map from Fred Harmon. It includes, on the center tab, all the different shim sizes. My #1 recommendation, don't do any conversions from metric/inches. Get feeler gauges in metric sizes, in .01 mm increments. The shims come in .025 mm increments, if you use feeler gauges with .025 mm increments you may find the valves still out of spec after you put the cams back in. I did.
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Thanks for the link. A source for .01 mm feelers would be even more appreciated! I have spent hours searching online without finding any.
Here is a good shim map from Fred Harmon. It includes, on the center tab, all the different shim sizes. My #1 recommendation, don't do any conversions from metric/inches. Get feeler gauges in metric sizes, in .01 mm increments. The shims come in .025 mm increments, if you use feeler gauges with .025 mm increments you may find the valves still out of spec after you put the cams back in. I did.
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My #1 recommendation, don't do any conversions from metric/inches. Get feeler gauges in metric sizes, in .01 mm increments. The shims come in .025 mm increments, if you use feeler gauges with .025 mm increments you may find the valves still out of spec after you put the cams back in. I did.
interesting note,
I couldn't find feeler in .025mm increment nor would I want them anyways.... oh wait, I have some....(.025mm = .000984") ::) ;D
based on the feelerstock available, the smallest metric measurment you can access is .03mm...
why don't they make metric feeler stock less than .03mm????
.03MM= .00118"
.04MM= .00158"
.05MM= .00197"
.06MM= .00236"
.07MM= .00276"
.08MM= .00315"
.09MM= .00354"
.10MM= .00394"
.15mm= .00591"
most sets all jump to .05mm increments (.002") from .15mm to .60mm
http://www.mcmaster.com/#metric-feeler-gauges/=kpesol (http://www.mcmaster.com/#metric-feeler-gauges/=kpesol)
individual feeler stock:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#feeler-gauges/=kpf980 (http://www.mcmaster.com/#feeler-gauges/=kpf980)
as long as I can use my brain, and simple math, I will still use my inch feeler sets, and individual strips i have purchased in inch increments, which will let me measure .0005" ;)
besides that, my micrometers measure to the .0001", and that works for me also... ;D I use it to measure the shims....and also the thickness of the head on the buckets the cam lobes push on....... ;)