Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C10, aka Kawasaki Concours - The Original => The Bike - C10 => Topic started by: bigpigtx on November 05, 2012, 10:09:08 PM
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Has anyone installed these?
http://www.amazon.com/Tusk-Grip-Heater-Kit/dp/B0033YTV78/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1352178458&sr=8-1&keywords=grip+heaters (http://www.amazon.com/Tusk-Grip-Heater-Kit/dp/B0033YTV78/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1352178458&sr=8-1&keywords=grip+heaters)
Anyone have a recommendation for other heated grips?
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Looks just like the ones I had from Cycle Gear. They worked great for me.
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I think Murphy has a set that are plug and play.
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d e a d
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I installed grip heaters a couple of years back and have been very happy with them. I installed Murphs fuse block at the same time, and said fuse block now runs my grip heaters and accessory light circuits (lights now removed due to damage).
Unfortunately, I lost the high power circuit on my grip heaters a couple of months after I installed them, but thanks to my no freezing rule I'm getting by well enough with the low power circuit only. I no longer take the bike out if the temps are expected to drop below 32 degrees, thanks to a bad day with a camouflaged ice patch on an otherwise dry road... Same for impending snowstorms. The Connie doesn't take well to falls, and things generally break that you need (mirrors, footpegs, bag brackets), not to mention causing cracks and other damage the fairings... but I digress.
I installed Symtec brand grip heaters, btw.
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A note on the resistor style heaters, the wires coming out of the resistor are extremely fragile. Instead of using that resistor, use a turn signal flasher, one for multiple lights. The flasher on my KLR has a lot of hours on it, still works fine, unlike the resistor that failed after a couple of days riding. It was mounted securely, BTW.
Also, the flasher will save electricity instead of wasting it away as heat when using said resistor.
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A note on the resistor style heaters, the wires coming out of the resistor are extremely fragile. Instead of using that resistor, use a turn signal flasher, one for multiple lights. The flasher on my KLR has a lot of hours on it, still works fine, unlike the resistor that failed after a couple of days riding. It was mounted securely, BTW.
Also, the flasher will save electricity instead of wasting it away as heat when using said resistor.
Care to elaborate on this. My dad's bike that I am restoring has the heated grips (not elements) and the resistors are all cracked up (probably won't work). Are you saying to direct wire for high and run a flasher for a medium range? Multiple lights meaning heavy-duty? Sounds neat.
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Another way with resistors inside the bars:
http://web.ncf.ca/ag136/gripHeaters.html (http://web.ncf.ca/ag136/gripHeaters.html)
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Care to elaborate on this. My dad's bike that I am restoring has the heated grips (not elements) and the resistors are all cracked up (probably won't work). Are you saying to direct wire for high and run a flasher for a medium range? Multiple lights meaning heavy-duty? Sounds neat.
That's pretty much it. I used a cheap Ideal "heavy duty" mechanical(thermal) flasher. I reckon you could use onna them fan-dancy electronic ones.
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Well I ordered the ones I posted a link to. I'll let you know how it goes. I use the bike for a business so I have to ride year round. I'm not going to wire in a relay b/c I can imagine there will be plenty of times I want to leave the heaters on for a few minutes while the bike is off.
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I'm not going to wire in a relay b/c I can imagine there will be plenty of times I want to leave the heaters on for a few minutes while the bike is off.
Surely you jest. I would take the bet that you will forget them and kill your battery then not make your next stop. Do not do this. Your choice on the relay (they are a somewhat low current draw) but at least hook them into a switched lead. They really don't loose a lot of heat anyway if they are just off for a few minutes.
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Switched lead isn't a bad idea, or I was thinking of wiring an led indicator lamp to remind me they're on.
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Another plug for Murphs Fuse Block. This includes a switched relay to deactivate the accessory circuits when the key is off. It's pretty ingenious how he did that too (tapping off of the brake light circuit for the relay switch, with the power being drawn from the battery when energized as I remember).
Plus it fits very snug and nicely behind the left side cover, adjacent to the J-Box. And I have no worries whatsoever about leaving the accessories on now...
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My bike came with grip heaters installed from the factory. I used it a couple of times and they give a lot of confort and the switch is easy to activate In Brazil, of course, it is unusual to have them at bikes.
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Well I installed the Tusk heaters. For $20 I'm happy. If they last more than a year I'll be really happy! On low they barely warm up, on high they get somewhat hot. I haven't ridden with them yet, but I suspect I'll put them on high and then switch to low to regulate the temp. Both heaters are the same and the instructions don't indicate otherwise, but one get's much hotter than the other.
I wired them into the accessory terminal under the left fairing. I haven't put a relay in...yet just becuase I haven't made it into town to get one. It will be easy though once I do.
I am having a problem getting the throttle grip to stick. I used WD-40 to get them off, then cleaned with brake cleaner. I think that may have been my mistake. I've used hairspray to put them back on but it still slips. Suggestions anyone?
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Well my wife pointed out that her hairspray is the least hold available. I'll have to try again with some Aquanet.
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I am having a problem getting the throttle grip to stick. I used WD-40 to get them off, then cleaned with brake cleaner. I think that may have been my mistake. I've used hair spray to put them back on but it still slips. Suggestions anyone?
Buy new grips... Both the WD and BC can cause the rubber to either soften and/or enlarge slightly and even the hairspray trick does not work as well any more due to changes in ingredients and propellants. One of the best ways I've found for removing grips is injecting compressed air under the grip.
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T-Cro may be right about the grips, but...
The symtec ones I have kept coming loose after a week or two. I was using a little tube of glue for dirt bike grips. It kind of turned into goo especially when hot. I cleaned them with acetone then stuck them back with Aquanet. So far its been almost a year with no issues.
I also wiped the mylar backing of the heat elements with some 150 grit emory paper to give the hair spray a little bit of a tooth to grab on to. Not a lot, just some good scuffs.
Did you wrap electrical tape on your left handle bar prior to sticking on the grip? This might/will help to keep the temp more equal. Are you sure there was no left/right markings? Was there a number where one was higher than the other? The left is usually a little bit stronger due to the heat loss thru the handle bar.
Also, many people report the hi/Lo switch going bad pretty early. Mine did. RadioShack carries a on/off/on for about $3. You may want to find one and just keep it on hand.
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Nope both heaters were exactly the same and I kept reading over the directions to see if I was missing something. It's annoying, but less than frozen fingers and as I said I'm happy for $20.
I bought new grips and put them on with some grip glue. We'll see how well it holds.