Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C10, aka Kawasaki Concours - The Original => The Bike - C10 => Topic started by: Tele130 on September 05, 2012, 09:45:33 PM
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I have to do a tire change so my question is: How do you lift your Connie high enough to get the front and rear tires off the bike? ???
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You can get the rear wheel off with the bike on the centerstand, a piece of wood underneath helps, as does taking the mufflers off.
If you pile the 4 winter wheels/tires in your garage on the back seat/dinky carrier, the front wheel lofts up.
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I use the center stand then I use a jack under the oil pan to raise the front wheel. I remove the plastic belly pan and use a block of wood between the oil pan and the jack. Don't want to damage the oil pan,do we??
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Put bike on center stand.
Weight down the back like George said or put a jack under the engine and pivot it back on rear tire.
Remove front wheel.
Put a metal rod through the empty forks.
Lower front down so metal rod rests on a pair of jack stands.
Remove rear wheel.
Reverse to install.
If the center stand makes you nervuos, bungie it to the frame so it stays put. ;)
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If your going to be removing both wheels I'd be dam sure to use a ratchet strap to the frame to keep the center stand locked in the deployed position as you don't want an unexpected movement to fold the stand and drop your baby to the ground minus her wheels. You can get extra height on the rear wheel by placing a short piece of 2 x 4 under each side of the stand; as you lean the bike over to one side you toe the 2x4 under the stand then walk around to the other side and repeat. As others have stated place a bottle jack under the motor to support the bike when you remove the front wheel; and the idea of a rod placed through the axle hole in the forks allows you the extra security of lowering the front end down on a pair of jack stands.
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Put bike on c-stand. Remove muffs. Remove rear axle and slip wheel to floor. Remove rear drive unit. Inspect/grease drive shaft splines. Inspect/grease drive splines on drive unit where wheel meshes. Slip rear wheel out. Inspect splines on wheel. Now change tire. Reverse procedure.
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All effective methods stated above. I cut the rear fender to the same level as the bags a while ago. Now I take the muffs off (aluminum Hole Shots, they need a good polishing anyway), then wiggle the wheel out without jacking the bike up or removing the final drive.
The first great idea I had was to remove the rear fender. Definitely not the efficient way. Yea, this is how I learn.
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This was a very timely post, as I'll be needed to R&R the rims to install new tires on the C10 I'm picking up. :)
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http://www.harborfreight.com/high-position-motorcycle-lift-99887.html (http://www.harborfreight.com/high-position-motorcycle-lift-99887.html)
This is what I use
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http://www.harborfreight.com/high-position-motorcycle-lift-99887.html (http://www.harborfreight.com/high-position-motorcycle-lift-99887.html)
This is what I use
This is what I use. (http://www.harborfreight.com/1500-lb-capacity-atv-motorcycle-lift-2792.html)
There was a $20 coupon in Rider magazine last fall that I used when there was a sale for $99 so my final price was $79. And I like the color yellow.
You can ride over to Greenfield someday if you want to see how it works to lift up my C-10.
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This is what I use, except mine's rated at (a very theoretical) two tons. I tried a good motorcycle jack once and came within about a micromillimeter of dropping the bike on myself. Now I use big-ass straps to the frame, and it can't fall over.
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-ton-capacity-foldable-shop-crane-93840.html (http://www.harborfreight.com/1-ton-capacity-foldable-shop-crane-93840.html)
Whatever works for you.