Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => The Bike - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: S.Ga.Rider on May 26, 2011, 07:10:36 AM
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Full throttle in od in lower rpms, pull the clutch in and the bike will shut off.
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There are times when you have to take your bike to the dealer. :'( This sounds like one of those times. Remove anything that is not stock before you bring it in.
On the other hand it's probably a loose connection.
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So I guess I am the only one with this problem?
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I was interested in this. I gave it a try twice, 60 to 75 wot then pull in the clutch. While I usually don't lug the motor that way my bike did as yours did. Interesting indeed. My bike runs perfectly save this instance.
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Hmm, I'll have to try mine as well but it won't be until tomorrow...strange days indeed.
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I went out on my 2009 for a ride and did exactly what you had requested by going from 50-70 in OD and then pulling in the clutch. The bike went to idle when I tried it twice. Hope that helps. Bob
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Could this be an electronic rev limiter switch intended to prevent the bike from over reving when you pull on the clutch at high rpms?
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Idle adjustment helped but still didnt fix the problem.
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Just to keep the confusion down, when I did this I pulled in the clutch and let go of the throttle at the same time. I also didn't try it 4th or 5th just 6th. On my way home, from a stop sign I did it in 2nd. Starting at the same rpm, about 3 grand and did not achieve the same results.
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Just to keep the confusion down, when I did this I pulled in the clutch and let go of the throttle at the same time. I also didn't try it 4th or 5th just 6th. On my way home, from a stop sign I did it in 2nd. Starting at the same rpm, about 3 grand and did not achieve the same results.
Mine wont do it in the lower gears either, od but runs perfect otherwise.
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Maladjusted throttle cables perhaps? This is a puzzler.
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I can say my throttle cables are prrrrfect. Barely any wasted space and I can put negative pressure on the grip and no lowering in idle. But that is just mine. I wonder if the ecu has a hard time adjusting the amount of fuel/air that quickly during a shut off. Just thinking out loud.
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I would say no, but I've had two martinis and can't think straight at the moment.
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I would say no, but I've had two martinis and can't think straight at the moment.
Pain killer for that finger?
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Yes...I wonder why the bleeding won't stop.
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Yes...I wonder why the bleeding won't stop.
Get your thumb out of the glass fool!
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I remember reading about how the Connie ecu treats on throttle to off throttle transitions that it actually shuts fuel off or almost off during off throttle conditions. I would suspect that has something to do with it. What happens when you don't shift like a (edited). My bet would be the bike performs normally under normal conditions.
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I remember reading about how the Connie ecu treats on throttle to off throttle transitions that it actually shuts fuel off or almost off during off throttle conditions. I would suspect that has something to do with it. What happens when you don't shift like a (edited). My bet would be the bike performs normally under normal conditions.
Maybe you could give us a demonstration so we know what not to do.
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Let's refrain from name calling, at least while the mods are watching.
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Can someone please steer this thread back on topic or lock it?
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Back on topic....
I would have never known that my bike would do this had the op not asked someone to try it. Other than that my bike runs well.
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Can someone please steer this thread back on topic or lock it?
I don't lock threads for going off topic. If I did, most of them would be locked. We don't want that do we?
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I'll be taking mine out to warm up for an oil change here shortly and will let you know if mine does it.
Update: Using fourth and shifting at 60/70/80 to 5th.....no issues. Tach needle dropped at a moderate speed to the idle setting although I must say I'm not used to that much time waiting before the next shift.
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When I get off of work tomorrow, I'll bump up my idle to 1150 or 1200 rpm and try it again just to see. Right now I'm set at or just below 1100 rpm.
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My idle is sitting at about 1200 give a take a few rpms...
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Sorry my PC blocker was off. The concours ecu shuts fuel down during off throttle times. My understanding was that it was for EPA standards. Most riders shift without going from Wfo to no throttle. If that's the way your riding your doing it wrong. I hope most understand this and while my post was blunt it was probably accurate. Going from Wfo to no throttle is not the most normal way to shift.
I will go try it right now though just to be sure I'm being fair with my comments.
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Sorry my PC blocker was off. The concours ecu shuts fuel down during off throttle times. My understanding was that it was for EPA standards. Most riders shift without going from Wfo to no throttle. If that's the way your riding your doing it wrong. I hope most understand this and while my post was blunt it was probably accurate. Going from Wfo to no throttle is not the most normal way to shift.
I will go try it right now though just to be sure I'm being fair with my comments.
Its not operator error. I think after over 100k miles of riding I have figured out how to shift gears.
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Well not to be a dick (im refering to myself vajim) but I have over 45K miles on two different c14s and I have never seen this (issue). Now on to the scientific data I was able to replicate the same thing in 5th gear from 40 to 70 wfo grab the clutch and completely letting go of the throttle the bike died. It never happened in 4th. Now to my previous observations I have never encountered this while using a normal (to me) shifting technique. This particular bike has just over 15K miles on it. My 2008 had over 30K on it when I sold it and I have never seen this behavior from either bike. I would never go from wfo to no throttle during a shift that slow for any reason I can think of (I hated lugging my bike like that by the way). I doubt I will ever see this during normal riding. It was however fun to test your theory and I can validate it. If you ride like that all the time, well we have very different riding styles and I'm in no way a pro. I really still think this is just a feature of the on/off throttle transition made by the ecu. Happy riding!
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I tested my C14 and mine doesn't have this issue.
I also had my HONDA out tonight and repeated this scenario, no issue to report (http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/avatars/badteeth.gif)
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It doesn't cut off from 5th to 6th either at any speed. I wonder if the TB sync is off.....?
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I feel a little better since others have the same issue. Its not practical to shift gears like that and I dont know why I did at the time.
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I'm also suspicious of my tb sync. My bike has a lope to it during idle. I haven't forked out the cash for a carbtune tool yet. I guess now I have an excuse.
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Because I finally thought to do it, I bumped my idle up to 1200 - 1250 rpm and tried this little experiment again and the bike did not stall. Instead of the rpms dropping to 8 or 9 hundred they dropped to about 1100 and recovered. Not sure what it means since I would have never known my bike would do this save the request of the OP.
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I havent worried with taking it to the dealer. I have put 1500 miles on it since and it rides perfect under normal driving.
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I have a 2011 c14. When I first got it, it had the same problem. I would accelerate pull in clutch go up a couple gears up and engine would die. Electrical was ok, engine would just die. Now I have about 2,000 miles on it and thankfully it went away, just like that! Now it runs perfectly. After the break in period I was able to air it out and that may have worked the bugs out. Do the electronics on these bikes adjust themselves? I don't know. Here is what I found on the net.
OCTOBER 2010 -- Kawasaki is recalling certain model year 2009-2010 Vulcan motorcycles. The engine may stall if the rider is coasting with the clutch pulled in due to an improper setting of the engine control unit (ECU). Engine stalling could create a potential for a crash resulting in injury or death. Dealers will replace the ECU with one containing revised settings to address the engine stalling. The safety recall began on November 1, 2010. 10V-507
Recall Date
OCT 19, 2010
Motorcycle Affected
2010 KAWASAKI VULCAN
Summary
KAWASAKI IS RECALLING CERTAIN MODEL YEAR 2009-2010 VULCAN MOTORCYCLES. THE ENGINE MAY STALL IF THE RIDER IS COASTING WITH THE CLUTCH PULLED IN DUE TO AN IMPROPER SETTING OF THE ENGINE CONTROL UNIT (ECU).
Consequence
ENGINE STALLING COULD CREATE A POTENTIAL FOR A CRASH RESULTING IN INJURY OR DEATH.
Remedy
DEALERS WILL REPLACE THE ECU WITH ONE CONTAINING REVISED SETTINGS TO ADDRESS THE ENGINE STALLING. THE SAFETY RECALL BEGAN ON NOVEMBER 1, 2010. OWNERS MAY CONTACT KAWASAKI CONSUMER SERVICES DEPARTMENT AT 1-866-802-9381
Read more: http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/motorcycle_recalls/49/2010/kawasaki/vulcan/77078.html#ixzz1NxR5L2Ku (http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/motorcycle_recalls/49/2010/kawasaki/vulcan/77078.html#ixzz1NxR5L2Ku)
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Mine has done it 2 to 3 times and each time it would happen while shifting with throttle open to completly close. I know it s not the usual way to shif but i was riding the bike in a...........very relax way ;D
It would start right away. If i remeber correctly, i was in the low gears meaning 2nd or 3th
Another ?: i was pretty sure that to adjust idle you need to get to computer parameters. On my car, i had to plug a handheld computer to OBDII and set up new idle conditions. How do you do that on the C14?
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There is a silver colored nut on the end of a cable on the left side of the bike. You know where all those vent hoses stick out. Turn this to adjust idle speed. Really nice having that instead of tearing the bike apart to reach an adjustment place under all that plastic.
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Thank you so much ;)