Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => The Bike - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: Paulmc on August 13, 2012, 07:11:29 PM
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I bought a 2011 and it seems to be leaking a dark gray film on the rear wheel. The bike has1500 miles on it. Any ideas thanks
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Yup....I have a few ideas.
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Please enlighten me. Thanks
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My top guess would be differential (drive shaft) oil/lube. Did you have it changed at the service interval? Did they overfill it?
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http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=2881.0 (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=2881.0)
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Yeah, that looks like the blown inner seal problem. We've seen this before on C-14's. It is a warranty fix at your local dealer- it takes about 4 hours to R&R the seal. That usually cures it but once or twice dealers have been unable to arrest the leaking and ended up replacing the final drive, again under warranty.
Brian
I bought a 2011 and it seems to be leaking a dark gray film on the rear wheel. The bike has1500 miles on it. Any ideas thanks
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Thanks guys for the help.
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After they fix it, be sure to give it a good test ride to see if it's fixed. There is more than one seal back there, they usually won't replace all of them at first, Mama Kawa is tight about giving the dealers warranty parts.
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Thanks we will see how it goes today.
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Hi Guys/Gals, I'm new to this forum. I bought a 2011 C14 last August 2011. I've had tons of bikes and this one is by far my fav. I live up in Alberta, Canada. I usually will put 20,000 kms or 12,500 miles on my bike annually. Last yaer I was only able to put 6000 kms as I got the bike late in the season and the snow comes quick up here. This year I rode down to Oregon and hit some nice roads. Upon my return to Calgary I noticed the rear hub leaking diff oil badly. The dealer said it was under warrentee and it was the seals. After waiting almost 2 weeks they installed the seals but damaged the bearings. The wait for new bearings was going to take us into late September so they has a 2011 used C15 and decided to use the parts from that bike to get me on the road. The used bike had 6000 miles on it. Rode the bike home last night and after 20 miles distance, I checked the hub and it was warm to the touch.
My question is, should the hub (Pumpkin) be warm? I think not. Now if it were really hot to touch I would think the bearings are done, I do hear clicking when I spin the wheel backwards, but have read this seems to be normal. If warm is the norm then OK but I will be testing it this Saturday to see how hot the hub gets. Just to be clear, the wheel hub was cold, but the diff part was warm, not hot. 20 miles at 65 mile/hour.
Let me know what you think. I'll follow up after Saturday to see if it get really hot in such case will be riding right back to the dealer...
Dave
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Hi Guys/Gals, I'm new to this forum. I bought a 2011 C14 last August 2011. I've had tons of bikes and this one is by far my fav. I live up in Alberta, Canada. I usually will put 20,000 kms or 12,500 miles on my bike annually. Last yaer I was only able to put 6000 kms as I got the bike late in the season and the snow comes quick up here. This year I rode down to Oregon and hit some nice roads. Upon my return to Calgary I noticed the rear hub leaking diff oil badly. The dealer said it was under warrentee and it was the seals. After waiting almost 2 weeks they installed the seals but damaged the bearings. The wait for new bearings was going to take us into late September so they has a 2011 used C15 and decided to use the parts from that bike to get me on the road. The used bike had 6000 miles on it. Rode the bike home last night and after 20 miles distance, I checked the hub and it was warm to the touch.
My question is, should the hub (Pumpkin) be warm? I think not. Now if it were really hot to touch I would think the bearings are done, I do hear clicking when I spin the wheel backwards, but have read this seems to be normal. If warm is the norm then OK but I will be testing it this Saturday to see how hot the hub gets. Just to be clear, the wheel hub was cold, but the diff part was warm, not hot. 20 miles at 65 mile/hour.
Let me know what you think. I'll follow up after Saturday to see if it get really hot in such case will be riding right back to the dealer...
Dave
It sounds normal. Mine gets warm as well. Not hot, I can hold my hand on it even after a long ride in the heat.
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Thanks Conrad. Paranoid I guess. The dealer also told me that when they were working on the leak, they checked my rear brake. Saw a posting about this. Anyway my buddies were saying on our last trip that my brake light was staying on, and I noticed it was only after I used the rear break (Rarely). Anyway they found it jammed with road debris. They never mentioned a recall, I haven't seen mine yet but I guess it will come. I picked up all the crud on the Road to The Sun in Glacier National Park in Montana. I don't shy away from gravel roads so this might be an issue until I get the recall notice!!!
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C15 eh? So you are running with a used rear drive? I wonder if the bike goes faster with that drive installed? You Canadians are lucky. We don't have any C15s down here.
The dealer is going to get a new one to you at some point, correct? I'm sure it does get a bit warm, but I would make sure that there is fluid in it. If it's within a quarter inch of the filler neck it should be ok.
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Yes, warm is perfectly normal and even hot is acceptable (a little too warm to hold your hand on the housing is OK). All heavily loaded power trains with gears do this, beveled gears more so than straight cut gears.
For whatever it is worth: shaft drive bikes do not deliver as much of the engine's power to the rear wheel as a chain drive bike does. The difference is consumed in the two sets of gears used in a shaft drive bike- the first set of bevel gears where the drive shaft is connected, and the second set in the final drive. The power loss is given off in the form of heat which is why both of those housings get warm. Chain drive is dirty, noisy, does not last very long and requires a lot of maintenance along the way but it is extremely efficient and does not produce any of the shaft jacking associated with shaft drive bikes (although the C-14 has cured that with that clever linkage arrangement).
By the way, it sounds like you have a great dealer- happy to hear those stories once in a while.
Brian
<snip>
My question is, should the hub (Pumpkin) be warm? I think not. Now if it were really hot to touch I would think the bearings are done, I do hear clicking when I spin the wheel backwards, but have read this seems to be normal. If warm is the norm then OK but I will be testing it this Saturday to see how hot the hub gets. Just to be clear, the wheel hub was cold, but the diff part was warm, not hot. 20 miles at 65 mile/hour.
Let me know what you think. I'll follow up after Saturday to see if it get really hot in such case will be riding right back to the dealer...
Dave
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Down Jim, DOWN!
;D
Brian
C15 eh? So you are running with a used rear drive? I wonder if the bike goes faster with that drive installed? You Canadians are lucky. We don't have any C15s down here.
<snip>
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Down Jim, DOWN!
;D
Brian
You know, they stop that after you neuter them. :stirpot:
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Yes, Checked it last night and it has new diff oil and is full. No leaks yet. C15, ahhh yeah sorry bout that. It's the new prototype Connie....Oh btw the used bike was a US model so it actually does go faster!! ;D. Love the bike, much better than my old ST1300. I have the Murphy Kits risers (Ok I'm old and my back needs as much help as possible) and a Cee Baileys Ultra tour windshield. That's it. The bike has everything else and more as is.
I am going to take it out for a long ride this Saturday and will pull over every so often to check the heat at the pumpkin. If it gets really hot to the touch I will be going striaght to the dealer. My buddy rides a R1200RT and will be following me and i'll compare his heat output to the connie. Not sure it's a fair comparo, sure wish I knew someone else up here who rode a connie.
Thank for your comments as it really is good to get great feed back, thanks again!!
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You know, they stop that after you neuter them. :stirpot:
The man is wearing a suit of armor, welding a sword, and has chainmail boxers on. Who's gonna neuter whom? ;)
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Thaks Brian, GOOD to know. I do have a 2009 Suz Bandit in the garage that I have used these last few years until I got the Connie. I know what you mean about chain vs. shaft. Yes the Dealer is tops. They are a very large outfit "Blackfoot Motorsports" Excellent sales and excellent service. I have been with them for 14 years and have bought a ton of bikes off them.
Anyway, back to the thread, thanks Brian I'll keep your comments in mind when I do the test. It's just you never really think to touch the rear hub when all is new and good with the bike so I have no idea how hot it actually got?? ha ha.
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Yep, it really is a nice bike. I have had mine just over 5 years and I like it more than I did the first day I had it.
As far as the bike having everything and more, hang around here for a bit and you might find an accessory or two that might interest you.... We don't feel we've done out job until you start into the third $1,000 in farkles. ;D
Just a friendly thought but I would not worry too much about the final drive. Really, they all get warm, it is perfectly normal and with the single exception of BMW's recent problems, they are just not a problem on modern bikes. The C-14 does have a bit of a problem in that they occasionally leak but as you found out, a dealer will fix them under warranty and so it is nothing to be concerned about. Save up your worry for important things like bubonic plague and swarms of killer ants and just enjoy the bike. ;)
Brian
Yes, Checked it last night and it has new diff oil and is full. No leaks yet. C15, ahhh yeah sorry bout that. It's the new prototype Connie....Oh btw the used bike was a US model so it actually does go faster!! ;D. Love the bike, much better than my old ST1300. I have the Murphy Kits risers (Ok I'm old and my back needs as much help as possible) and a Cee Baileys Ultra tour windshield. That's it. The bike has everything else and more as is.
I am going to take it out for a long ride this Saturday and will pull over every so often to check the heat at the pumpkin. If it gets really hot to the touch I will be going striaght to the dealer. My buddy rides a R1200RT and will be following me and i'll compare his heat output to the connie. Not sure it's a fair comparo, sure wish I knew someone else up here who rode a connie.
Thank for your comments as it really is good to get great feed back, thanks again!!
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You know, they stop that after you neuter them. :stirpot:
You know, it's best not to meddle in the affairs of forum admins as we get testy (more testy than avg) and are inclined to do the most unmentionable unimaginable things and I'm considered the calmer one...... ::) ;)
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Thanks Brian, I had left a message with the dealer with the same concern, they called me back immediately and was very concerned. They also told me that I was mistaken in that they did not use parts from a used bike but they took a new model off the floor and replaced the entire rear unit. That is why they were so concerned since they are worried that this is new so...what's up. Just to show you how this dealer is...they took the owners demo C14 out for a 30 mile ride and tested the heat from the diff and said that yes it too was somewhat hot.
Basically keep an eye on it and if it really gets wierd bring it back in. I agree with you that there are more important things to worry about...like my retirement in two years and how the heck I will be able to afford to live on the Connie. I'll sell the wife!! ha ha
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Got a picture? ::)
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You know, it's best not to meddle in the affairs of forum admins as we get testy (more testy than avg) and are inclined to do the most unmentionable unimaginable things and I'm considered the calmer one...... ::) ;)
Especially after a few totties! :thumbs:
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I'll sell the wife!! ha ha
Got a picture? ::)
U B Bad gPink. :rotflmao:
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I didn't take a picture of the mess at the hub but it looks just like the picture at the begining of this thread. I detailed the bike last night and the wheel turns smooth so I think I am ok. Can't wait to get her out Saturday. I am doing the oil and filter tonight.
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Here are my 2 current bikes. 2009 Suz Bandit 1255 and the 2011 Connie with a 2012 dif!! haha
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I watched the tech do the first service on my bike. I let them do the first and then I go from there. Well of course I read the service manual prior to bringing it in and while he was filling the rear drive he spun the wheel. I said whoa there pardner, please read the service manual. If you spin the rear wheel you have to wait for the oil to settle otherwise you will overfill. Sheesh.
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I watched the tech do the first service on my bike. I let them do the first and then I go from there. Well of course I read the service manual prior to bringing it in and while he was filling the rear drive he spun the wheel. I said whoa there pardner, please read the service manual. If you spin the rear wheel you have to wait for the oil to settle otherwise you will overfill. Sheesh.
- my mechanic turns the wheel there too , as would any right thinking mechanically minded person filling a gear system like ours. But he fills only the 160 ml of GL5 he had measured beforehand.
.
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Kanuk14... Did you paint the bottoms of your panniers, or did the 11s come that way?
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Nope didn't paint them, they are stock. The bottom of the panniers are the same color but the texture is something like rough gravel??
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- my mechanic turns the wheel there too , as would any right thinking mechanically minded person filling a gear system like ours. But he fills only the 160 ml of GL5 he had measured beforehand.
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My guy didn't pre-measure. Just poured from the bottle. Guess he is not mechanically minded.
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If you open the filler and oil pours out, you have too much in it. This is me but I only put enough in to about 1/4 inch below the filler. Haven't had any issues for 50k miles. Do not turn the wheel while filling it as you'll get a false reading. Consider that the oil sticks to the gears, as it should. If you fill it full to the lip then it will be overfilled after the oil settles down.
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If you open the filler and oil pours out, you have too much in it. This is me but I only put enough in to about 1/4 inch below the filler. Haven't had any issues for 50k miles. Do not turn the wheel while filling it as you'll get a false reading. Consider that the oil sticks to the gears, as it should. If you fill it full to the lip then it will be overfilled after the oil settles down.
+1 Do as Jim suggested above, and no measuring required. A perfect fill everytime.
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For those interested in warm rear drives.....I just came off an hour long ride at speed in the low 80's and I can't hold my hand on the drive itself. Too hot. I think hot is ok here for the rear drive.
'
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See? Have I ever lied to you before.... that you know of?
Do you thing the drive is too hot for me to hold your had on it?
Brian
For those interested in warm rear drives.....I just came off an hour long ride at speed in the low 80's and I can't hold my hand on the drive itself. Too hot. I think hot is ok here for the rear drive.
'
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It was too hot to hold 'your' hand on it....or I could just be overly sensitive.
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That is why I think I could hold your hand on it longer than you can hold your hand on it. I will wear earplugs and the screaming won't seem so bad.....
;D
Brian
It was too hot to hold 'your' hand on it....or I could just be overly sensitive.
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I don't know Brian. Jim has a protective patina of dirt and road grime covering his bike. He may be able to hold his hand on his hub longer with that extra bit of insulation.
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and take into account the armored gloves he's wearing.
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They didn't help yesterday... They're metal so they conduct heat more efficiently. I won't say I could fry eggs (I'd have to clean it first) on mine but it was hot, hot, very hot, just short of glowing (just kidding). The rear caliper and wheel, on the other hand, were cool.
I suggest that everyone feel their rear drive and if it's cool, they should immediately go out and ride.
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I just felt mine and it's far too cool. I'll have to get that taken care of after breakfast.
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Teressa and I took my bike out last night for a combo of fast freeway, low speed beach grand strand and fast freeway again across the long bridge coming back.
I didn't care how hot the gear became so I didn't check it, but the seafood was good (http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/avatars/iconstirthepot.gif)
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Well the rear hub seems fine now. Yes it gets hot. Who knew!! ha ha My cousins RT was also warm but not as hot as the Connie (in more ways than one) ha ha again.
200 miles on Saturdat up in the Alberta Rockies. This bike is so nice! I swapped with the RT for about 40 miles and my cousin was just freakin out. He could not believe how sweet the Connie was.
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To know the bike is to love it...
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To know the bike is to love it...
To know it is to love it is to know it...
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Let's not go all touchy feely here.....
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:grouphug:
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Let's not go all touchy feely here.....
To know it is to feel it is to touch it is to love it...
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What's 'it' ?
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I think hot is ok here for the rear.....
To know it is to feel it is to touch it is to love it...
What's 'it' ?
That's a good question gP', I've searched back through the posts and I think they're
talking in some kind of code about putting their hands on a guys hot rear end. ?? :nuts:
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Well if the words 'rear end lube' or 'fob' come up, run.
Brian
That's a good question gP', I've searched back through the posts and I think they're
talking in some kind of code about putting their hands on a guys hot rear end. ?? :nuts:
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Well if the words 'rear end lube' or 'fob' come up, run.
Brian
Now what post does that remind me of.....hhmmmm....sompthin' 'bout junk in trunk?
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=4424.msg51101#msg51101 (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=4424.msg51101#msg51101)
(sorry steve) ;)
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I'm glad we've all evolved and stopped calling it a "differential." :)
You don't have to clean it to cook eggs on it. But you might want to should you want to EAT them. :D