Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => Accessories and modifications - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: TJ on August 05, 2012, 01:40:50 PM
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When you slide that black plastic insert onto the handlebar how far do you push it on? Do you push it until it is flush with the rubber grip end (which is what I think) ? Or should it stick out from the grip end.
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I found that the friction sleeve does not fit with the heated grips, 2010 and later. I sent pictures and a letter describing the problem to throttle meister but they never responded. I wonder if they ever redesigned the friction sleeve for the 2010 and later C14's.
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I found that the friction sleeve does not fit with the heated grips, 2010 and later. I sent pictures and a letter describing the problem to throttle meister but they never responded. I wonder if they ever redesigned the friction sleeve for the 2010 and later C14's.
The directions included with my TM specifically said do NOT use the sleeve on bikes with factory heated grips.
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Can't answer your questions about the redesign but can say it seems to fit just fine. The instructions say nothing about not using them with heated grips.
TM's web site shows only one kit and that is for the 2008-2012 Concours.
This is from the FAQ section:
Q: Will the Throttlemeister work with factory heated grips?
A: The Throttlemeister will work for almost all bikes with "factory" heated grips. We do not recommend that it be installed with Hot Grips. With heated grips, the initial adjustments are more critical. We suggest that when you are installing the Throttlemeister you do so with the grips fully "hot" so you don't get any binding
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I bought a set of TM in July, the instruction sheet that came with them (Adapter Kit AK1-H) says at the end of installation step 2 (which is rolling back the grip to install the friction sleeve): "If you have heated grips, do not use this sleeve and move to step 3."
Don't see any date or revision number on the install sheet, but it says it clearly on the one that came with my set.
To clarify, you can use the TM on the newer models, you just don't use the included "friction sleeve" if you have the factory heated grips.
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I bought a set of TM in July, the instruction sheet that came with them (Adapter Kit AK1-H) says at the end of installation step 2 (which is rolling back the grip to install the friction sleeve): "If you have heated grips, do not use this sleeve and move to step 3."
Don't see any date or revision number on the install sheet, but it says it clearly on the one that came with my set.
To clarify, you can use the TM on the newer models, you just don't use the included "friction sleeve" if you have the factory heated grips.
Spot on.
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Looks like I need to remove the sleeve as my bike is a 2012.
Are you guys happy with how the TM works without using the sleeve?
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Looks like I need to remove the sleeve as my bike is a 2012.
Are you guys happy with how the TM works without using the sleeve?
Coming up on 3000 miles without a hitch...
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TJ..... When I had it on my bike briefly, I did not use the sleeve. It worked just fine without it in. I have HotGrips though and they are glued down so on mine it wouldn't go under. Just try different combinations of shims until you get the best lockup and you'll be fine.
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Removed the sleeve destroying it in the process. Seems to hold just fine while playing around with it in the garage. But I am down to not using any spacers at all and the clearance still appears to be a little loose.
Any suggestions on how to snug up the fit?
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I have the G2 Throttle Tamer on my bike and the sleeve won't work with the Throttle Tamer, but as it turns out, you don't need it.
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Removed the sleeve destroying it in the process. Seems to hold just fine while playing around with it in the garage. But I am down to not using any spacers at all and the clearance still appears to be a little loose.
Any suggestions on how to snug up the fit?
You'll prob be using the heated grips a lot in your location..... so that will help tighten it up :).... but anyhow.... you don't want it to be so tight that it's tough to rotate the grip. You'll be making adjustments frequently unless you live in the flats. If it holds in the garage it will hold just fine out on the road.
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I found that the friction sleeve does not fit with the heated grips, 2010 and later. I sent pictures and a letter describing the problem to throttle meister but they never responded. I wonder if they ever redesigned the friction sleeve for the 2010 and later C14's.
Huh? Works perfectly fine. Pry it up with a screwdriver, don't roll it back, push the sleeve in.
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The sleeve fit my 2012 model pretty good. But it is in the trash now as it was a bitch to get off. I am guessing the grip heater could melt it and that is why TM said not to use it.
Anyhow, have any recommendations on setting the TM while riding? Must be a learning process to doing everything with one hand.
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Oooh, you might want to pull it out of the trash. I have had no issues with the grip heater. I initially didn't install the sleeve, and it just didn't want to hold properly. I installed it afterwards and it worked a lot better.
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Only tried it twice but it held just fine. If it ever slips I'll just call the company and ask them which part needs altering to increase the friction. Can always buy a new sleeve as well. No big deal.
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Bummer, worked fine yesterday but today there is not enough friction to hold it. Gonna have to call them up since they didnt respond to emails.
Would shorting the grip end of the handlebar a hair where the bolt goes in to hold the TM in place hair make any difference ?
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Bummer, worked fine yesterday but today there is not enough friction to hold it. Gonna have to call them up since they didnt respond to emails.
Would shorting the grip end of the handlebar a hair where the bolt goes in to hold the TM in place hair make any difference ?
I doubt it. I think the rubber is just too soft for a good hold. The friction ring is more solid.
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Sorry, meant to say would shortening the actual metal end of the handlebar cause the friction to increase becase the TM would be going on the bar a little further.
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Sorry, meant to say would shortening the actual metal end of the handlebar cause the friction to increase becase the TM would be going on the bar a little further.
You have no shim spacers left to remove to move it further to the handle? I'm not sure I'd want to modify the bar itself. That wasn't a problem when I tried it without the friction ring.
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Sorry, meant to say would shortening the actual metal end of the handlebar cause the friction to increase becase the TM would be going on the bar a little further.
You're considering grinding a bit off the end of the bar its self in order to get the TM closer to the end of throttle tube? :o
How about moving the throttle tube closer to the TM instead? Can the throttle mounting be loosened up and then moved closer to the end of the bar?
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After I installed my G2 Throttle Tamer I had to experiment with different washer combinations to get the spacing "just right" for the Throttle Meister, where it was close enough to engage when turned CCW (the direction of applying throttle) and completely disengaged when turned fully CW. BTW, I did not use the friction ring. :)
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How about moving the throttle tube closer to the TM instead? Can the throttle mounting be loosened up and then moved closer to the end of the bar?
Good idea, I'll look it over when I get a chance to see if this will work.
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Good idea, I'll look it over when I get a chance to see if this will work.
Part of the trick of installing these things is to find just the right combination of spacer washer thicknesses so that you can get it mounted an optimal distance from the bar end. Which is just a very slight clearance with the unit in a retracted position. And you have to be aware that the rubber can swell with heat, so you may have to do this a few times until you get it right.