I have been lurking a bit for the last week or so since I got a new to me 2003 C10 (a birthday present from my wife) and the info here is great. I have some questions about fork seal replacement that I am not seeing answered in previous threads though. I ordered the seals and a Clymer from Murph, but looking at the manual I am seeing requirements for special tools and what not. Are these really necessary? Also as a reasonably competent shade tree mechanic I am wondering if there are any tips or tricks to make the job easier, because it looks like a PITA.

Thanks
Mark

Undoing the bolt holding the damper rod is the tricky part, it tends to turn.

Backyard mechanic's tool, see:
http://web.ncf.ca/ag136/forkUpgrade.htm

Others simply jam in a broomstick (crude).

I didn't pull my forks apart to replace the seals.  I did remove and flush them with gasoline a few times (drain for a while afterwards if you have the time).  Pop the dust seal off with a thin screw driver.  Then CAREFULLY drill a small hole while upside-down (so the shavings don't go into the seal area) into the seal.  Screw a small sheet metal screw into the hole and work the seal out.  Clean it with brakecleen, put some Permatex sealer on the outside edge of the seal and tap it back in with a piece of PVC pipe or similar, followed by the dust seal.  You may want to add sealer to the dust seal also as they are sometimes a little loose when seated and may move some later.

Mine is an '87 so I also have the luxury of a drain at the bottom of each leg.  I made a nice little fitting with tubing to drain the fluid out of.  I can even vacuum fluid back into it for a quick fluid change.

d e a d

More damper tool options:  You can get the hardware to make a tool for just a few bucks at your hardware store.  It'll look something like this when you're done:



This allowed me to lay the fork tube down on my work bench and lock the other end of the rod in my vice.  Be sure to protect the sliders with wood blocks and don't clamp down too hard and warp a tube out of round.  You just need to hold it in place while applying opposing forces to the damping rod and its bolt on the bottom of the fork leg. 

The other 'tool' that you will need is a piece of 1 3/4 inch pvc pipe about 2 inches long. Cut it in half length wise on one side only.  This will allow you to flex the split tube in place over the fork tube and drive your new seals in evenly.

There's an even cheaper homemade self crafted tool method at this link:

Helpful Fork Seal Link

The wrench size for the nuts I welded on the rod were, I believe, 15/16.  This was for an 87 and worked perfect for holding the inners while removing the bolt on the bottom of fork tubes.

Summit670 is right, the nuts are 15/16" or 24mm socket wrench size.

The difference between the 2 sizes is virtually nil, the official term being:  'the width of a a frogs hair'.

Summit670 is right, the nuts are 15/16" or 24mm socket wrench size.

The difference between the 2 sizes is virtually nil, the official term being:  'the width of a a frogs hair'.

   Frogs don't have no hair!! 

Often, fork seals don't need replacing as much as they just need cleaning.  I've had good success with the SealMate.  Even so, it would probably be a good idea to replace the fork oil.

I would suggest that the forks be disassembled, cleaned & inspected. I have serviced/repaired quite a few forks (mostly dirt bike) and I can attest that flushing does not get all the crud out. The pic is a damper rod holding tool made from a long 1/2" drive extension and a plumbing fitting with a 15/16" (23.5mm) hex, works on quite a few damper rod forks.

Thanks guys - Between the info y'all provided and the manual I should have no problems with this.

That looks like a neat tool. Can you give more info on the plumbing fitting and how it was attached?

Cleaning crud from a seal can sometimes fix a leak.  In fact, it is the first thing I'd try because it only takes a few minutes.

Cut a little section of plastic from a water bottle or pop bottle, then slide that between the fork tube and seal, then rotate it around the circumference of the fork to hopefully dislodge any grit.  Let any air out of forks first.

Someone else suggested they place some masking tape on the plastic first on the seal side to provide better wiping action.

You may be able to use a pipe cleaner, but haven't tried that.  I'd form a U shape, then push the U behind the seal.  That for sure would catch any grit.

On my bike, the bushings were also worn out.

New bushings are .040 thick.

Mine were at .033 and I could feel a "pop" through the bars when I braked hard.  That was the tube and stanchion not remaining concentric to each other.   

After I replaced the bushings, the "pop" went away.

I wouldn't worry that much about it, I think my bike had 60k on it when I finally pulled it apart.  If yours has less miles, it's probably fine.

If you already have calipers and you are taking the forks apart, might as well check it--will take all of 2 minutes.

That looks like a neat tool. Can you give more info on the plumbing fitting and how it was attached?

I found the fitting in one of my "dont throw this s**t  away because you might need it someday" boxes. It has 1/2" pipe thread in the end, I put some JB into the hole and drove the extension in with a hammer.

On my bike, the bushings were also worn out.

New bushings are .040 thick.

Mine were at .033 and I could feel a "pop" through the bars when I braked hard.  That was the tube and stanchion not remaining concentric to each other.   

After I replaced the bushings, the "pop" went away.

I wouldn't worry that much about it, I think my bike had 60k on it when I finally pulled it apart.  If yours has less miles, it's probably fine.

If you already have calipers and you are taking the forks apart, might as well check it--will take all of 2 minutes.

Wait...  Can you describe that pop?  Because sometimes I feel something as well, not sure how to describe it though.  When does it happen?  Once you've already stopped and the forks are rebounding?

And what bushings are you talking about?

The pop always occurred when the suspension was compressing under braking, while still moving.  I could feel it through the bars. 

You'll see the bushings when you pull the forks apart.  I should have taken pictures, sorry.

My bushings were hammered.  Replacements can be obtained through Kaw or Race Tech.  One of the few times OE is cheaper.

Adds $50 to the cost of the repair, IIRC.

Thank you all for the advice. I can now state beyond a shadow of a doubt I am intimately familiar with the forks of my Connie. 2 forks equaled 4x disassembled and reassembled (don't ask, silly washers). Put a new center stand on her while I was at it. Took it out for a 75 mile shake down with mama on the pylon  and will re-torque tomorrow. Next step adjust the valves, compression test, bent rod check and get SWMBO (she who must be obeyed) to authorize the expenditure of funds to send the carbs to SiSF  .