OK. That wiring pair powers up the Ign. Housing circuit and the white wire is connected directly to the output of the voltage regulator (rectifier).
I get the 15 amp fuse for ECU as fuse #2 in fusebox #2, and it appears to be powering up the ECU itself but also quite a few other circuits, mostly the coils of relays.
The closest thing I get to your description for the 10 amp fuse is: 'KIPASS signal relay fuse, 10A', Fusebox #3, fuse #1
OR: 'KIPASS fuse 10A', fusebox #3, fuse #3.
I have no fuses marked 'smart'. ??
The first KIPASS fuse, 10A, goes to the KIPASS relay, then to the KIPASS signal diode, which is some kind of non- defined 'secret' box, and then to the front turn signal lights.
The other fuse, KIPASS, 15A, powers up the ECU, the dash display, the steering lock unit, and the first fuse in Fusebox #2, marked 'Fan fuse, 15A', which are the cooling fans. Any chance one of them is jammed? Try to reach in there and see if each one turns freely.
After that, it will be a matter of pulling connectors and checking continuity and then current draw at each of those devices I listed. I do have the pin numbers w/in the connectors at least.
Brian
In a way this is new.. But I can give more background info. It can't hurt. Nothing but my pride anyhow.
I encountered the "ignition switch - stuck switch" problem a couple of years ago. The one where the internal switch stuck down and didn't return when the key was released. I thought that circuit was associated with the White/Brown wire pair that shared one of the two connectors for the Steering Lock Unit (SLU). My "fix" consisted of bypassing the SLU where those 2 wires entered - assuming that they did actually connect through the sticky switch which is internal to the SLU. I placed another switch in the circuit and joined the White/Brown wire pair through it. The bike ran and functioned so I thought nothing more of it until the switch eventually shorted to ground (via the left windscreen rail) and started blowing the 30A main fuse in the charging circuit (which is housed in the starter relay bucket in the battery compartment). I didn't discover the self-made short for awhile because I am a prideful idiot. I must have shorted the charging circuit to ground a good number of times. I don't have a true number of times that I replaced that fuse in my attempts to figure out what I did - hence the idiot comment.
After I got tired of replacing the fuse, and realizing that the switch that I installed was not the correct fix, I eventually restored the white/brown wire pair to the original configuration in the SLU circuit via the connector. I removed the SLU and sanded off some of the plastic on the internal switch so it wouldn't stick. I put it back together and it worked. Yep, should of done that a long time ago.
Months later it broke down again. The 30A fuse had blown again. This time I left the SLU alone and looked at the other components in the charging circuit and eventually found a bad Voltage Regulator and replaced it last month. Back on the road and running fine... I put a good hurting on the battery through all of this - I shorted it to ground a lot. It makes sense that it finally failed. I stressed the hell out of that circuit and everything connected to it.
So the current indications are:
1. The 15A fuse for the ECU blows with the ECU installed. It does not blow with the ECU removed.
2. The 10A fuse for the KIPASS ECU (SMART) blows with or with out the KIPASS ECU installed.
That is as far as I got. I'll continue after the weather clears up. Meanwhile I'm looking at the print and looking for inspiration.