The petcock is fine right...since it was on prime...it did what it was supposed to do? The failure was with a carb needle or float and of course, no overflow tubes?
I think that the floats apply such light seat pressure to the needles that the head pressure from a reasonably full tank of fuel could overcome a needle with a soft spring and cause it to seep, resulting in hydrolock.
I'd like to add that it has been said that hydrolocks are the result of 2 failures, the petcock and a float needle.
Just always remember, when you approach your bike, if you see gas on the ground or if you smell gas, check it out before you hit the starter button. You and your Concours can live a long and happy life with or without overflow tubes as long as you use your head.That will work only if you smell gas. Many times you may not. It only takes a few seconds of leaving a manual petcock in the ON position or an automatic on Prime (or it failed in Prime) to have a Hydo-lock Occur. I never smelled gas when I almost hydro locked and I was in a garage. I even had a sign that said to tap the starter to make sure the engine is free but I kept forgetting to do that.
That will work only if you smell gas. Many times you may not. It only takes a few seconds of leaving a manual petcock in the ON position or an automatic on Prime (or it failed in Prime) to have a Hydo-lock Occur. I never smelled gas when I almost hydro locked and I was in a garage. I even had a sign that said to tap the starter to make sure the engine is free but I kept forgetting to do that.
You may take your chances and possibly live a long happy life without over flow tubes but you will not be safe from Hydrolock at all and thinking you do not need over flow tubes is a mistake that could cost you your engine. Why take the chance? Get overflow tubes installed ASAP.
Wait, haven't we proved the the petcock being on prime *and* a leaky float valve was the cause? Is it ok to run a leaky float valve for a while if the vacuum on the petcock is ok? Can't Jet86 simply change the oil and ride now?You can do this work yourself. Read up on MOB's carbbie article and do not take short cuts. Do install overflow tubes. Do NOT us K/L carb kits, there are issues with them, something like a float or float clip issue, and the needles are suspect, IIRC. Plus, it's K/L. (I'm assuming the ebay kits are K/L)
I'm not implying that rebuilding the carbs is a bad thing, just wondering it's absolutely nesessary before riding it again. I'm a cheap bastard, and I'd rather ride than work on 'em, too.
I found a single carb rebuild kit on eBay for $27. That's about a tank of gas in CA, so if you can't afford that, you can't afford to ride anyway! Ok, Ok, rebuilding all four carbs would be $108, and it'd be silly to pull the carbs and only rebuild one.