What did you do to your Concours today?

[Eupher]

Took off all the Tupperware to prep for coolant flush, brake and clutch flush and bleed.

Thank God for Fred Harmon's DVDs. It's been a while since I had all that stuff off. Of course, the Canyon Cages had to come off first. Re-reviewed all the threads on those and dusted off my installation instructions. Gotta clean out the front motor bolt threads with a tap, but that will come later.

I don't know what it is about those damned clear nylon washers holding up the Tupperware. They disappear into some kind of black hole as soon as you go to pick 'em out of the hole they're in.  Ordered a dozen of those things just to have them on hand. I'm missing two of them.

[maxtog]

Of course, the Canyon Cages had to come off first. Re-reviewed all the threads on those and dusted off my installation instructions. Gotta clean out the front motor bolt threads with a tap, but that will come later.

One of my bolts broke trying to remove the Canyon fronts for service (top right side, bottom bolt).  What a mess that was.

I don't know what it is about those damned clear nylon washers holding up the Tupperware. They disappear into some kind of black hole as soon as you go to pick 'em out of the hole they're in. 

They do tend to disappear.

[Conrad]

Took off all the Tupperware to prep for coolant flush, brake and clutch flush and bleed.

Thank God for Fred Harmon's DVDs. It's been a while since I had all that stuff off. Of course, the Canyon Cages had to come off first. Re-reviewed all the threads on those and dusted off my installation instructions. Gotta clean out the front motor bolt threads with a tap, but that will come later.

I don't know what it is about those damned clear nylon washers holding up the Tupperware. They disappear into some kind of black hole as soon as you go to pick 'em out of the hole they're in.  Ordered a dozen of those things just to have them on hand. I'm missing two of them.

It's been SO long now that anyone talked about removing the Canyon Cages. I know that my first gen C-14 (with a slight mod to the plastic) does not have to have the CC's removed to get the plastic off. Is it the case that second gen C-14s do have to have the CC's removed or is there a mod for these too that you didn't do?

[Eupher]

It's been SO long now that anyone talked about removing the Canyon Cages. I know that my first gen C-14 (with a slight mod to the plastic) does not have to have the CC's removed to get the plastic off. Is it the case that second gen C-14s do have to have the CC's removed or is there a mod for these too that you didn't do?

Waaay back when I installed them (2017, IIRC) I seem to remember reading about such a mod - to cut into the middle cowling's cooling fins just a smidge to allow the CC's internal section to pass through. Maybe that was for the Gen 1 only - I just don't remember. My C14 is Gen 2.

In any event, I was not willing to cut into the plastic for any reason. I figured if I'm gonna screw up the plastic, it's gonna be an accident such as breaking off a tab or somesuch. Thanks to Fred's DVDs on removal and installation, that's not happened and I hope it does not.

Patience and working with it, I guess. Right now everything is torn down in preparation for the work I'll be doing so reinstalling the plastic is still in front of me. I'll reinstall the CC's after the plastic is reinstalled -- and this time, I'll put the rear CC's on for the first time.

[maxtog]

It's been SO long now that anyone talked about removing the Canyon Cages. I know that my first gen C-14 (with a slight mod to the plastic) does not have to have the CC's removed to get the plastic off. Is it the case that second gen C-14s do have to have the CC's removed or is there a mod for these too that you didn't do?

A long time ago, I posted the modification I made to allow removal of plastics of gen2 without removal of the front cages.  It does require a cut.  But it doesn't seem to compromise anything, nor is it visible when assembled.  This is how I was able to perform most of the maintenance in the past.  However, to perform a valve adjustment, they have to go, there is no working around them.  That is when I broke the bolt.

[Eupher]

Installed 7 speed bleeders (yes, there are two on the rear caliper, not just one) and the rear Canyon Cages, which have been sitting on my shelf for the last year or so. 

[maxtog]

Installed [] the rear Canyon Cages, which have been sitting on my shelf for the last year or so. 

Whoa- you have been tempting fate, for sure!

[VirginiaJim]

Installed 7 speed bleeders (yes, there are two on the rear caliper, not just one) and the rear Canyon Cages, which have been sitting on my shelf for the last year or so. 

LOL, that's where I kept my Canyon Cages, on the shelf.  Top shelf, but on one nevertheless.  Sold them unopened..

[Justcliff]

There is no reason to ever remove the CC's once there installed, with the slight cut in plastic & this mod is described in the installation instructions that come with them. This cut can't be seen if you're looking for it. Mine have been own 10 years & not once removed, all maintenance done with zero issue.

There is no way in hell I'd consider removing them every time I removed the plastic. Anybody that is able to install them can certainly make the mod.

[maxtog]

There is no reason to ever remove the CC's once there installed[...] all maintenance done with zero issue.

On your gen 1, perhaps.  Not the case on the gen 2, from what I can tell.  I don't recall the exact issues, but trust me, I would NOT have removed them if I could have performed the valve adjustment, front sensor O ring, and other things I had to do, without removing them.  I knew there was a risk of breaking the engine mount bolt.

There is no way in hell I'd consider removing them every time I removed the plastic. Anybody that is able to install them can certainly make the mod.

Me neither, for "normal" (frequent) maintenance items.  But it seems for major maintenance, it might be unavoidable for gen2.

[Eupher]

Bled the master cylinder and the front calipers today. Yeah, I poohed the scrooch and let the master cylinder get too low. Sucked in a little air. 

Front brakes feel great now.

[Justcliff]

On your gen 1, perhaps.  Not the case on the gen 2, from what I can tell.  I don't recall the exact issues, but trust me, I would NOT have removed them if I could have performed the valve adjustment, front sensor O ring, and other things I had to do, without removing them.  I knew there was a risk of breaking the engine mount bolt.

Guess I stand corrected. I would have never imagined there would be that much difference or were made so that they prevent plastic removal.

[kzz1king]

I tried cutting so I could remove mine on my 2010. Still couldn't  remove the plastic. Could be because of the bathtub bars.

[Eupher]

Guess I stand corrected. I would have never imagined there would be that much difference or were made so that they prevent plastic removal.

Well, from what I can tell, the CC's for the Gen 1 look a LOT different than the CC's for Gen 2. That by itself may explain the issue.

Just getting the bar through the uncut plastic takes a bit of turning and twisting -- to the point that the recommendation is to use painter's tape on the plastic areas through which the bar goes. I've read other accounts that pretty much say if you've got to take the Tupperware off, you gotta drop the CC's off first.

This was my first time taking the CC's off after initial installation. I used Blue Loctite and didn't have a problem getting the mounting bolts out, though I'm going to use a little film of grease on them upon reinstall just to keep rust at bay. I'll definitely run a tap through the mounting holes because there's a lot of crud in there just from the Loctite.

I don't want to turn this into another CC thread! 

[maxtog]

I tried cutting so I could remove mine on my 2010. Still couldn't  remove the plastic. Could be because of the bathtub bars.

Even with the cut made, the plastic is still very difficult to remove or install and requires twisting and bending and such.  But it is possible.

[bigjim]

I envy you folks in the warm climates, I lifted the cover on my connie, checked that the battery tender was on and happy and put my gloves back on and reset the cover on her.  -2f at this point this morning...

[Eupher]

Took all the fasteners from the CC's and ran them through a 10mm - 1.25 die, using cutting fluid. Cleaned up nicely.

Took a 10mm - 1.25 tap and cleaned out the engine mounting holes. A lotta stuff in there, but the bolts run all the way through. Should be good to go upon reinstallation of the CC's.

Awaiting various parts before coolant flush and fill, reinstallation of the Tupperware and CC's. Probably will sneak lubing up the throttle cables before then. That's next on my list.

[maxtog]

I envy you folks in the warm climates, I lifted the cover on my connie, checked that the battery tender was on and happy and put my gloves back on and reset the cover on her.  -2f at this point this morning...

Wow.  I guess I can't complain about cold.  I don't know what you mean by "warm climates", there is still snow here and just below freezing.  But -2F there is a hell of a lot colder than the 32 or so here!  I typically ride year-around, but only if it is dry and temps above 39F.   And I have no motivation to try and fix my fork seal leak (removing the fender and messing with the SealMate), yet again, when it is even this cold outside.

I need to contact a local shop about what is involved with seal replacements, since my "fixes" are becoming less and less effective   

[Eupher]

Installed Style B of Phil's Farkles luggage rack. Looks nice - definitely better than the plastic from Mama Kawi.

Now investigating tank bags........

[Justcliff]

Ordered speed bleeders since I'm due for a flush & washed for the 1st time in months.

Now investigating tank bags........

Givi lock ring bags are very nice, extremely easy off/on & they don't touch the tank which is nice. Not something somebody can just walk by & grab without knowing where the latch is. Which is a plus if it's a concern.