That's what my odometer reads.  I guess it has read that same number since late last November when my electrical system went berserk.

I have mostly recovered the bike at this point.  The instrument cluster has issues:
- No speed indication
- The Odometer does not increment the mileage
- Both Trip Odometers do not increment
- Average MPG display isn't working

I have replaced the speed sensor.  The next thing would be the cluster I suspect.  $600 from Partzilla.

What I am curious about is the accumulated mileage on the bike.  Has anyone replaced a cluster before?  If I get a new one then I will be starting at zero, right?  I suspect that I will be paying a visit to my local DMV...

Can you find one on ebay? Document the switch and screw the dmv.

Can you find one on ebay? Document the switch and screw the dmv.

Harder to find than a KDS3 system on Ebay or anywhere else!

I don't recall what year your bike is....

https://www.ebay.com/b/Motorcycle-Instruments-and-Gauges-for-2014-Kawasaki-Concours-14/180033/bn_94463994?maspect=contextType%3AMOTORCYCLE&Submodel=ZG1400C+ABS

I don't recall what year your bike is....

https://www.ebay.com/b/Motorcycle-Instruments-and-Gauges-for-2014-Kawasaki-Concours-14/180033/bn_94463994?maspect=contextType%3AMOTORCYCLE&Submodel=ZG1400C+ABS

It's a 2008.  I will check out your link when I get home, can't get to Ebay from work.  Thanks.

Isn't the mileage also stored in one of the ECU s?

Isn't the mileage also stored in one of the ECU s?

That is a very good question.  The used ones that I found have mileages in their description so I am assuming that the cluster has some sort of memory...  I don't know about the ECUs tho.

I don't recall what year your bike is....

https://www.ebay.com/b/Motorcycle-Instruments-and-Gauges-for-2014-Kawasaki-Concours-14/180033/bn_94463994?maspect=contextType%3AMOTORCYCLE&Submodel=ZG1400C+ABS

I found quite a few.  Thanks again for the link!

I have swapped working clusters twice and there is no inication that the ECU changes the odometer reading. My current 08 had 49,000 +/- showing on the odometer. The cluster has some cosmetic heat damage on it so I installed the cluster from my dead 09 which had 30,000 +/-. I swapped back 5000 miles later when I realized the 09 does not have the ABS light. The numbers did not change when I made the swaps. The 08 cluster is still less than 51,000 and the 09 now reads 35,000.

I have an instrument cluster from a 2010 ABS Concours. Perfect condition. I replaced it to get a metric version. It has 14,000 miles on it.
The mileage is stored in the cluster, so whatever the one has that you put in is the miles you have.
If you are interested in it I can send pics and work out a price.

27145.  Add that number to my new/used cluster and I get a ballpark figure of my mileage.  The cluster is silly easy to replace and it works just fine.  I have Speedo, Trip Odo A and B, Avg MPG, and Range again.

Looking at the new ODO number is kinda strange.  It's like the bike got a face lift.   

But wait!  There's more!

If you haven't been following the Plasma Ball saga this post will probably confuse the crap out of you.  Not to worry.  It will all make sense as soon as you take a great big sip of the cool-aide.

I purposefully rode the fuel tank empty today, to the point that it completely ran out of fuel and shut down.

I did not get the Low Fuel warnings.  (Recall that the instrument cluster is a used replacement)

Due to a run-in with a Plasma Ball the original cluster did not indicate speed or increment the Odometers but it did indicate fuel level.  Both clusters responded to fuel fills in a way that I would consider normal.  The level gauge indication increased to "Full" when I put fuel in and lowered as I put miles on...  but it didn't lower all of the way, on either cluster.  I suspected a problem based upon what the original cluster was indicating but I didn't push it all the way until after I installed the replacement cluster.  The final 2 LCD tank level segments remained on, the Low Fuel warnings did not "annunciate", and I ran out of fuel.

I, once again, pose a question to the Hive Mind.  What the F is going on?

I have not followed the amazing saga closely so pardon me if im off base but I gather the theory is that the "plasma ball" fried numerous electronic items. The fuel gauge is controlled  by a electronic device connevted to a float in the tank, which mau have been fried at whatever level it was at at the time. The low fuel warning is triggered by a liquid sensor mounted on the base of the fuel pump and may have been fried as well. Thus a wild @$$ theory for ya. And hay I salute you for your dogged determination!

I have not followed the amazing saga closely so pardon me if im off base but I gather the theory is that the "plasma ball" fried numerous electronic items. The fuel gauge is controlled  by a electronic device connevted to a float in the tank, which mau have been fried at whatever level it was at at the time. The low fuel warning is triggered by a liquid sensor mounted on the base of the fuel pump and may have been fried as well. Thus a wild @$$ theory for ya. And hay I salute you for your dogged determination!

I have similar suspicions so I am leaning towards the float/rheostat.  The funky thing is that the level indication varies as expected, it just doesn't trigger the warning nor does the indicated level decrease below the "E" mark.  I wonder if there is an adjustment on the float mechanical (screw) or electrical (rheostat) portion?  It appears that I will have to lift the tank out either way.  I want to get to the ABS pump also.

I have similar suspicions so I am leaning towards the float/rheostat.  The funky thing is that the level indication varies as expected, it just doesn't trigger the warning nor does the indicated level decrease below the "E" mark.  I wonder if there is an adjustment on the float mechanical (screw) or electrical (rheostat) portion?  It appears that I will have to lift the tank out either way.  I want to get to the ABS pump also.

The warning is not triggered by the float/rheostat but by a seperate sensor on an entirely seperate circuit, I theorise that BOTH are damaged. I have replaced the low fuel sensor on a Ducati. Unfortunately I do not see a sensor listed in the parts diagram although the mnaul does mention "Fuel reserve switch" in fuel pump removal.

I had an 84 Ninja with a float/rheostat that was way inacurate, the simple fix was to bend the float arm.

 I suspect the rheostat is only partially damaged such that it works from full tank  down to a certain level and then stops working. Hope this helps

If I remember correctly, you bought that bike used; is it possible that it was already wearing a low fuel warning eliminator? That would be the easiest explanation of all, and there are quite a few of them out there so it would not be much of a surprise really.

It is an electrical circuit in the form of a harness that plugs into one of the two harnesses going to the fuel tank. It installs basically exactly as an extension cord, and so you can remove it and restore the bike to stock if you prefer. It is located behind the fuel tank; take a flashlight and poke around (Easy Boys!) in the well behind the fuel tank, find and lift out the two harnesses; if one of them has something plugged in-line in it, that would be the L.F.W.E..

If there is indeed a L.F.W.E. on that bike, then I think Incontrol should get a honorary mention, not for me but for Kirby and Mr. Elkhoof, (and now Young Miss Phoebe), the real producers of that product, because it would seem to have shrugged off a nuclear- sized cloud of angry electrons that have ravaged just about everything else on that bike. 

Brian

But wait!  There's more!

If you haven't been following the Plasma Ball saga this post will probably confuse the crap out of you.  Not to worry.  It will all make sense as soon as you take a great big sip of the cool-aide.

I purposefully rode the fuel tank empty today, to the point that it completely ran out of fuel and shut down.

I did not get the Low Fuel warnings.  (Recall that the instrument cluster is a used replacement)

Due to a run-in with a Plasma Ball the original cluster did not indicate speed or increment the Odometers but it did indicate fuel level.  Both clusters responded to fuel fills in a way that I would consider normal.  The level gauge indication increased to "Full" when I put fuel in and lowered as I put miles on...  but it didn't lower all of the way, on either cluster.  I suspected a problem based upon what the original cluster was indicating but I didn't push it all the way until after I installed the replacement cluster.  The final 2 LCD tank level segments remained on, the Low Fuel warnings did not "annunciate", and I ran out of fuel.

I, once again, pose a question to the Hive Mind.  What the F is going on?

If I remember correctly, you bought that bike used; is it possible that it was already wearing a low fuel warning eliminator? That would be the easiest explanation of all, and there are quite a few of them out there so it would not be much of a surprise really.

It is an electrical circuit in the form of a harness that plugs into one of the two harnesses going to the fuel tank. It installs basically exactly as an extension cord, and so you can remove it and restore the bike to stock if you prefer. It is located behind the fuel tank; take a flashlight and poke around (Easy Boys!) in the well behind the fuel tank, find and lift out the two harnesses; if one of them has something plugged in-line in it, that would be the L.F.W.E..


Brian

I was wondering the same thing. BTW thanks Brian. I love the LFWE. It is much nicer than the intrusive warning. Nice work. Now, if only we had something to get rid of the annoying TPMS low battery warning. Lord I hate that.

Thank you for the kind words.

As to the TMPS, that one is tough to do with any kind of plug- in accessory but I did develop a method with which you can R&R the sensors, and install new batteries, without removing the wheels from the bike or the tires from the wheels, and using nothing but  pair of wood- working clamps and some blocks of 2 X 4's. And it really does work quite well; I have done a bunch of them with 100% success so far (regarding the R&R of the sensor and the re-seating of the tire bead and the subsequent air- tightness of the tire: I did have one sensor that did not 'come back to life' after the procedure). Going to do some more the end of this month, well at least help, guide and solder in new batteries 'cause I snapped a bone in my left wrist. Not going to be too useful in actual R&R'ing of the sensors with only one working paw unfortunately.... :-( 

I have not seen a new sensor 'in the flesh' yet but am looking forward to meeting one of them in the hope of crossing it with another TPS sensor and <hopefully> figuring out a way into the battery compartment on those too. Will publish / post about that if or when it happens. I am just not willing to buy genuine Kawasaki sensors for 'testing to destruction' at over $200 / per.

Brian

I was wondering the same thing. BTW thanks Brian. I love the LFWE. It is much nicer than the intrusive warning. Nice work. Now, if only we had something to get rid of the annoying TPMS low battery warning. Lord I hate that.

I did get the Low Fuel warning before... you know.  Afterwards, the display did not decrease lower that "E" so it didn't get to the last section with the gas pump icon.  That display was on the original cluster that had a damaged speedometer circuit and I have replaced the cluster.  The new/used cluster works fine in every way that I can tell with the exception of the fuel level indication.  The new cluster shows the same fuel level indication as the original/damaged one.  And I don't get the warning even with an empty tank.

I don't know much about the circuitry but I suspect that there may be more than one issue in play here.  Lather pointed that out and I agree.  Whatever is driving the fuel level indication at and below the "E" level is funky.  I just don't know what that part is.

Thank you for the kind words.

As to the TMPS, that one is tough to do with any kind of plug- in accessory but I did develop a method with which you can R&R the sensors, and install new batteries, without removing the wheels from the bike or the tires from the wheels, and using nothing but  pair of wood- working clamps and some blocks of 2 X 4's. And it really does work quite well; I have done a bunch of them with 100% success so far (regarding the R&R of the sensor and the re-seating of the tire bead and the subsequent air- tightness of the tire: I did have one sensor that did not 'come back to life' after the procedure). Going to do some more the end of this month, well at least help, guide and solder in new batteries 'cause I snapped a bone in my left wrist. Not going to be too useful in actual R&R'ing of the sensors with only one working paw unfortunately.... :-(   

Brian

I recall seeing your R&R procedure. Mine may be new ones since they both have been replaced under warranty. One was replaced because the battery was low, and the other because they broke it during a tire change. My front one is failing again. If the warning didn't begin so long before actual failure, it wouldn't be so bad, but mine started almost two years ago, when cold, then progressed from there. No I generally ride with a warning blinking on the screen, or the bog red light illuminated after clearing the message. Very annoying, but, I am still under warranty so I will eventually get it changed.

Hope your paw heals soon.

I may just leave the fuel level display alone.  The level shows full after I top off the tank, and then lowers as I put miles on.  The indication decreases to the "E" and stops there, the Low Fuel level warning does not come on.  The Trip Odo works so I know how many miles I have put on the tank.  After a couple of iterations I am getting a better feel for how much fuel remains in the tank after a couple of days of commuting.  I don't know why the level is indicating the way it is but I think I can live with it.

The tank level indication is very basic as far as I can tell.  The float positions a rheostat that has a range of 10 (Full) - 210 (Empty) ohms.  This resistance has to be part of a voltage divider that the cluster reads and then displays level as well as tripping the low fuel level warning.  If the resistance of the rheostat never increases (with lowering level) through the normal range, to the trip points, I will not get the warning nor will the last 2 tank level LCD segments go out.  My theory anyhow.

However, my personality may not allow me to let this minor issue rest.  I have this irrational need to know what the hell is different now vs. previously.  I blame it on the Naval Nuclear Propulsion program's brainwashing...  Maybe I needed a brainwashing.