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Just thought I'd share this since I just put my carbs back in this morning.
To remove and install carbs, I find it much easier to unhook the throttle cables at the handlebar. I'm no expert but 2 times I removed the carbs by removing the cables at the carbs and this time I did it from the bars and found it much easier. This has been mentioned before so I can't claim the discovery. Why a 3rd time - because I was stupid and didn't replace the coolant log o-rings even though I suspected a leak I was in a hurry to see how my carbs would work. Patience would have been great to have then.
To install the carbs, yes I rolled back the airbox boots and secured with zip ties. IN ADDITION, I also placed and old aluminum license plate from my truck between the boots and carbs, and with the cables left intact on the carbs, I got the carbs close, routed the cables thru, and the whole carb bank virtually slid right thru. They slid thru and the carb throats were higher than the manifold boots.
Once they were lined up vertically, I was able to apply rearward pressure against the license plate with the plate preventing the rear of carbs from catching on the boots or zip ties, and worked the carbs down into position. The license plate then slid right out. Slid the zips off the boots and the boots rolled right onto the carbs perfectly.
Recommendation - unhooking cables at throttle grip and using a thin plate or piece of plastic to keep the rear of carbs from catching on boots.
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Having done this job probably between 75 and 100 times, I will say that unhooking at the carbs is the easiest way. Loosen the locking barrels, but don't try to remove the cables. pull the carbs to the left and swing them up vertically. Unhook the cables. Reverse for installation. As far as air filter side boots, if they're stiff, heat 'em with a heatgun before removal and again before installation. To install, heat 'em spray with silicone, shove carbs in. easy - peasy. Steve
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I agree with Steve. I pull my carbs every year to clean them and I just did it again to install Steve's 2-minute mod (which works excellent, by the way) and I think it is a lot of extra work to detach the cables at the throttle grip. Swinging the carb rack vertically on the left side is the way to go. Also, to make things easier in the future, you can reroute your throttle cables to the right side of the frame head tube, it will give you a little extra slack to work with.
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Ok, maybe for a beginner at removing carbs it is easier to disconnect from the top. In case I need to do it again I need to brush up on a better way to disconnect at the carbs.
Steve, I don't quite follow what you said - Loosen the locking barrels, but don't try to remove the cables. pull the carbs to the left and swing them up vertically. Unhook the cables. (this may be where I'm going awry because I remove the cables right after I loosen those lock nuts on the threaded tube that is connected to the carbs)
Seems like a good suggestion to reroute cables. Anyone else have luck with this?
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you followed fine! Steve
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Ok, maybe for a beginner at removing carbs it is easier to disconnect from the top. In case I need to do it again I need to brush up on a better way to disconnect at the carbs.
Steve, I don't quite follow what you said - Loosen the locking barrels, but don't try to remove the cables. pull the carbs to the left and swing them up vertically. Unhook the cables. (this may be where I'm going awry because I remove the cables right after I loosen those lock nuts on the threaded tube that is connected to the carbs)
Seems like a good suggestion to reroute cables. Anyone else have luck with this?
Thats the way I been doing it for the last 8 or so years....and it always works for me
all except the cable re-route that is, never found it necessary...
I route the cables like this most often, and it is easy to get to, but often when I pull carbs, I loosen/remove the left coil for better cable slack/flex, you always have to pay attention to the cable at the barrel adjuster, and insure you don't stress/deflect/kink the sleeve there....it makes for a time consuming search later, when the throttle is slow closing....bt/dt
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MOB, yer missin a foot peg rubber, better get that looked at before you slip and fall.
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MOB, yer missin a foot peg rubber, better get that looked at before you slip and fall.
very observant...
seeing as thatposhad fallen hard, and looked like this, I have that covered...
it now looks like this....
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http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1410607350015463693vOzerp
REALLY NICE M.O.B.!! Love the rear fender work
Did you cut the stock fender?? I've never been fond of the stock look. This looks great!!
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http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1410607350015463693vOzerp
REALLY NICE M.O.B.!! Love the rear fender work Did you cut the stock fender?? I've never been fond of the stock look. This looks great!!
yep, zipped it off with the jigsaw attachment on my Dremel.
Carefully drill holes in the bottom of the red tailight lense cover and glue in a piece of clear lexan, or even a piece cut from a 2 Litre pop bottle, and viola...legal license plate lighting again.....(got popped for not having that when i got inspected once....)