Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C10, aka Kawasaki Concours - The Original => Accessories and Modifications - C10 => Topic started by: toojeep4u on June 04, 2011, 05:21:37 AM
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Installed a set of 2 lines on the front brakes last night and I can feel a huge difference when I squeeze the handle. I left it clamped all night and now the lever doesn't even come close to the throttle when I grip it. I haven't had a chance to ride it yet as it is still apart awaiting the install of new rear and clutch line today. The fronts went in easy enough but the fittings don't make sense. I followed the instrctions on Murph's site, but I don't see why the left line would have a slight kick at the fitting on the resivoir end. It puts it in a slight bind.
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There shouldn't be any binding if you either offset the fittings slightly or position them like the photo shows in the directions on Murph's site. The fittings can also be turned to achieve the proper angle as well.
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There shouldn't be any binding if you either offset the fittings slightly or position them like the photo shows in the directions on Murph's site. The fittings can also be turned to achieve the proper angle as well.
Be careful with that statement as not all fittings can be twisted within the hose to change their positions' be sure that the directions that come with your lines clearly state this and includes the tools to do so. Also the reason one fitting has a slight bend in the end is so that it can lock itself in behind the other straight fitting. I also find that it helps to grind off the little tang that hangs off of the master cylinders so that you can position the lines as you so desire.
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not all fittings can be twisted within the hose to change their positions'
True; was going on the statement the OP bought them from Murph, hence Spielgler lines which should have the adjustable banjos. Provided of course they send you the block to clamp the fitting and the extra heavy duty piece of plastic to twist it with!
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True; was going on the statement the OP bought them from Murph, hence Spielgler lines which should have the adjustable banjos. Provided of course they send you the block to clamp the fitting and the extra heavy duty piece of plastic to twist it with!
BTW that block and rod are a piece of junk... I used a pair of channel lock plyers and a close fitting metal rod to twist mine; it was very easy that way.
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So the banjo on the end can be rotated? That would work better. I wondered what the block and pin were for.
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BTW that block and rod are a piece of junk... I used a pair of channel lock plyers and a close fitting metal rod to twist mine; it was very easy that way.
Hey Tony,
Mine worked pretty well. Don't know if I could do three or four sets using the same "Vice Block", but it worked ok. ;D FWIW, I LOVE having real brakes on the Connie :chugbeer: :thumbs:
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So the banjo on the end can be rotated? That would work better. I wondered what the block and pin were for.
Make sure when you place the block in your vice to tighten it.........................follow the instructions (The block should start to change color, if I remember correctly).
You are using Spielgler lines right?
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Hey Tony,
Mine worked pretty well. Don't know if I could do three or four sets using the same "Vice Block", but it worked ok. ;D FWIW, I LOVE having real brakes on the Connie :chugbeer: :thumbs:
Yeah the hard part was parking the bike on the work bench close to the bench vise...... :P
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Yeah the hard part was parking the bike on the work bench close to the bench vise...... :P
:rotflmao: Yea, that was a total drag. Did you just power lift it or did you have help?
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:rotflmao: Yea, that was a total drag. Did you just power lift it or did you have help?
I used a ramp!
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I used a ramp!
See? Never thought about that :nuts:
;D
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Be careful with that statement as not all fittings can be twisted within the hose to change their positions' be sure that the directions that come with your lines clearly state this and includes the tools to do so. Also the reason one fitting has a slight bend in the end is so that it can lock itself in behind the other straight fitting. I also find that it helps to grind off the little tang that hangs off of the master cylinders so that you can position the lines as you so desire.
I have found the Galfer lines to fit without any problems....or needing to grind anything off...
(http://inlinethumb56.webshots.com/48695/1279223335015463693S600x600Q85.jpg) (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1279223335015463693rHEAgC)
(http://inlinethumb51.webshots.com/22962/1279223070015463693S600x600Q85.jpg) (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1279223070015463693jmbiDG)
A piece of clear plastic tubing on the original hoop assists in making a nice routing also, you can remove the old block and bolt it on there...
(http://inlinethumb60.webshots.com/46459/1279223469015463693S600x600Q85.jpg) (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1279223469015463693KKnEJw)
good luck on the clutch line, resign yourself to snip the metal tube at the mid point, it's much easier to remove it than trying to fish it all out...which is a p.i.t.a., and requires lots of disassembly...
(http://inlinethumb12.webshots.com/47691/1279223847015463693S600x600Q85.jpg) (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1279223847015463693iVlPuV)
(http://inlinethumb57.webshots.com/18168/1279224148015463693S600x600Q85.jpg) (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1279224148015463693NKirPH)
(http://inlinethumb53.webshots.com/46004/1279225851015463693S600x600Q85.jpg) (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1279225851015463693nGgQPY)
(http://inlinethumb52.webshots.com/48115/1279224296015463693S600x600Q85.jpg) (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1279224296015463693BALzIQ)
routing f.y.i.
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MOB it's not that they didn't fit it's that they fit mo better when you can direct them in ANY direction not hindered by the tab gettin in the way.
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Now this is how I thought they should go but the angled banjo didn't line up with the banjo on the caliper. I didn't realize you could rotate the banjo on the line. I have it like the pictures shows on Murph's site. But I don't like the way it angles back toward the handle bars. Of course now I have it filled and bled.
I have found the Galfer lines to fit without any problems....or needing to grind anything off...
(http://inlinethumb56.webshots.com/48695/1279223335015463693S600x600Q85.jpg) (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1279223335015463693rHEAgC)
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This is how mine ended up. I think I am going to pull the lines off the master again and twist the one angled banjo 180°. That should fit better. ALso, is the line running from the rear resevoir to the master cylinder standard hose? Can I use fuel line for that?
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If it will stand up to gas I would think that it will stand up to brake fuild.
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I just looked it up, and fuel hose is Nitrile, which is listed as good for fuels but bad for brake fluid, so no go on the fuel hose. The material to use is EPM or SBR. Look up "brake reservoir hose" on Google. I found a couple, but don't know what the size is for C10. It is used on some VW's and other Euro cars, as well as motorcycles
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection1.asp?Product=3575 (http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection1.asp?Product=3575)
http://www.doghouserepair.com/store/item/3303/ (http://www.doghouserepair.com/store/item/3303/)
HTH,
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I just looked it up, and fuel hose is Nitrile, which is listed as good for fuels but bad for brake fluid, so no go on the fuel hose. The material to use is EPM or SBR. Look up "brake reservoir hose" on Google. I found a couple, but don't know what the size is for C10. It is used on some VW's and other Euro cars, as well as motorcycles
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection1.asp?Product=3575 (http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection1.asp?Product=3575)
http://www.doghouserepair.com/store/item/3303/ (http://www.doghouserepair.com/store/item/3303/)
HTH,
Good catch Gary, thank you!
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Here's the page with lots of choices for reservoir (brake fluid) tubing from Yoyodyne, though they don't identify the material. (http://www.yoyodyneti.com/Category.aspx?CategoryID=3013)
FWIW I ponied for the expensive (now $8/ft) Yoyodyne clear tubing for a Ducati clutch and front brake master cylinder/remote reservoir conversion in early 2003 .... now 2011 the tubing is still flexy, not swollen, and working fine though very slightly yellowed, so the high $ may be worth it.
YMMV :)