Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C10, aka Kawasaki Concours - The Original => The Bike - C10 => Topic started by: Charliedog on May 27, 2014, 01:46:16 PM
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After rebuilding the front calipers, rebuilding the front master cylinder, replacing all the crush washers at the banjo bolts, replacing the pads with new DP standard pads, and am reasonably confident I have gotten the air out of the system, I just do not feel much initial bite when I grab the front brake lever. The lever does not feel spongy, nor does it come back to the grip, the braking feels linear-the more I squeeze the lever, the harder it stops. However I wish it had more initial bite. So the question is: which pads have the most initial bite? TIA
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EBC HH pads. Murph sells them. I know the feeling. Once I had no choice I had to buy buy standard EBC pads and I could tell how much less they grabbed. As soon as the HH's arrived I tossed the new standard pads. Never again. HH for me always.
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What he said.
Or different calipers...
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The consensus seems to be the EBC HH+ pads have the most initial bite of any front brake pads for my 2000 C10, but I had them on the bike and was not impressed. (However there may have been other issues with the front brakes-long story.)
I was hoping for an alternative, something with really strong initial bite, but if there is no better alternative, I may try another set.
Just curious, has anyone tried the FA129V semi-metallic pads? TIA
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Haven't tried the FA129V. Galfer Green pads have always worked well for me.
Eric
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Braided steel lines are a must, and a really thorough bleeding mandatory to get anything effective out of the stock brakes.
When bleeding, you really, really must run a length of tubing from the bleed screw into a container with enough fluid to keep the end of the tube submerged. It's the only way to see when the bubbles are all gone.
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Did you de-glaze your rotors when you installed the new pads?
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The bike has a Galfer two-line system on the front.
I used a Mity-Vac to bleed the brakes until no bubbles came out. I also used the bungee cord the lever to the grip overnight trick every night for a week.
I used AAA green Scotch-Brite on the rotors on the previous pad change-my bad, not this time.
Just curious, what part number Vesrah Green go on the 94+ Connies? TIA
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Brembo Sintered Metal 07KA09SA
DP Brakes DP314
SBS pads are excellent but they don't last very long.
I found the Armstrong and Goldfren pads to be rubbish. Don't waste your money.
Only other pads I have used are Ferodo which are on my C14 and after an initial running in period they seem to be pretty good.
Personally I found the EBC HHs to be the best for bite and power on the C10.
You do need decent quality rotors though and like Daytona Mike said break the glaze on your rotors using fine grit sandpaper.
Just spin the wheel and hold the sandpaper with a block.
Don't forget to clean afterwards with a soft cloth soaked in brake cleaner.
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Nissin 4 pot calipers with EBC HH pads, braided hoses and Arashi rotors on my 89. 8) ;D
Awesome stopping power nearly on par with my C14s brakes.
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Thanks Boomer. I have the DP314s on now, but did not deglazed the rotors when I installed them. I just ordered a couple of sets of Vesrah VD-427JLs, sintered, and will be sure to deglaze the rotors before installing the pads.