Hoping to get a sticky out of this post. I have seen a lot of threads asking a lot of questions about the installation of the MC Enterprises Canyon cages.  I thought I would share my experience, and also sum-up a lot of the information I've seen in other threads to try to make it a little more clear and concise all in one place.  I also like to help people learn how to figure things out for themselves because a lot of times problems have a simple answer, and I firmly believe the better educated people are about how things work, and reasons behind why things are the way they are, the better experience in this world for everyone.


This is for a 2010+ (Gen 2) Concours 14.

As always, I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR BROKEN/ DAMGED PARTS IF THEY BREAK, OR IF YOU USE LESS THAN TOP-QUALITY TOOLS! This is just a guideline to share my experience, which was fairly problem free.

Because the engine is a stressed part of the frame, and the center stand is attached to the engine, it's best to put the bike up on the center stand before you start. This will help alleviate as much stress as possible on the motor mount points, and make your life much easier.


The first issue I would like to address is the rear (Extra long) motor mount bolt.  I've seen a lot of posts in my searching asking about alignment, thread usage, etc.   Unfortunately I didn't take any pictures of this, so I will try to explain as best possible. 

When you remove the hollow factory long bolt at the back of the engine (by removing the 17mm socket nut on the left side just below the tire/ load data sticker see in instructions) you'll notice that at the opposite end (right side of the bike now...) there is a place for an allen wrench.  DO NOT TURN THIS (Unless you are dropping the engine etc) That allen head turns the entire motor mount bolt (Cause it's all one piece).  As you remove the factory bolt, you'll notice a hex portion just below the bolt-head.  This hex-portion goes into a piece that holds the motor and the frame tightly together to factory spec. If you were to turn the rear motor mount bolt, you would change the tension/ space between the motor and the frame. With the motor being a stressed part of the frame on this bike, any space in there can lead to frame flex, and crash.  Being too tight and you'll start breaking expensive parts that your wife will have a canary about paying for.   This is why you don't want to turn the rear bolt. rather, just slide it out.

Now looking at the bolt that MCE included in the kit, you'll notice that it too has a hex portion part-way down the bolt shaft, at the head end (yeah yeah get your 13 year old minds out of the gutter....).  Just like the factory bolt, this serves the same purpose. That hex portion needs to be lined up so it properly slides into the hex part of the motor mount so the bolt properly protrudes the other end. If you need to do so, put it through (Right to left) without the crash cages and look to see how everything lines up.  It's pretty simple once you see it yourself.

After you have followed the rest of the instructions, and are ready to put the nut on the left side, there's a few things to note.  First make sure that the bolt is indeed protruding at least 5/8 inch (Like the instructions say).  Then the sleeve that fits over the bolt needs to be installed.  Look at both ends. You'll notice one is completely flat, and the other is machined about 1/2 inch deep.  The machined part goes towards the outside.  This is so that the special nut can grip the threads deep inside the sleeve. Because of how the nut is designed, (From my understanding from research, MCE PLEASE Correct me if I'm wrong) it does not need to have all of the threads contacting the bolt threads.  Mine has about 1/4 inch of threads unused.  (Note, you may have to put slight pressure on the right side cage to make sure it's fully seated against the frame, and the bolt properly pushed through as well.  May be beneficial to have a buddy help you do this, then bring you a beer afterwards, although the actual help is not absolutely necessary.)








Now onto the front motor mounts. I've seen a whole slew of bad things said about these.  With proper care and tools, they're not a problem.

First off, skip harbor freight, home depot, sears, etc.  Buy snap-on. (Or equivilant)  Period. (Craftsman is not snap-on quality. It's made in china, same as harbor freight)  Anything else and you risk breaking it. Also, don't use a ball-head hex tool.  That can snap off inside the bolt-head and cause you even more headache.  For a normal home project, made in china I would say is fine, but there's a lot at stake here, and potentially over $1,000 in damage.  You can afford a $15 socket for this (or however much they cost, My father in law was a machinist, so he had a set or 4 of top-quality tools for me to use).

The tool that's most important to be high quality is the allen socket.  Make sure it's a good solid fit. It will still twist a tiny bit inside the bolt while removing, but the effect will be less. Impact grade is best.  Pair this up with a 1/2" drive breaker bar, and a 1/2" drive 6-8" extension and you should be set.

A lot of people have mentioned using heat to loosen the Kawasaki lock-tite when removing the front bolts.  I advise against using a torch or heat gun as these are not easily controlled as to where the heat goes (it can go more places than you actually want it to go.)  Instead, you can warm the engine up to operating temp (optional), and use a sacrificial screwdriver tip heated up red hot, and touch the bolt head.  A soldering iron also works for this. It may take a while if you don't have the engine nice and warm first. (Don't burn yourself, it hurts...)

FOR (Insert phrase of choice here) SAKE! DO NOT FORGET THE BASIC RULE OF RIGHTY-TIGHTY LEFTY-LOOSEY THAT YOU LEARNED AS A PRESCHOOLER!!!  If you forget this, you WILL be breaking important things in really expensive parts, and your wife won't like the bill.

Use a nice long cheater on your breaker bar (I used a 4' piece of square tubing) and gently apply even pressure from the mid-end of your cheater. DO NOT impact or jolt it (IE: Hammer, air gun, etc).  This will encourage breaking important stuff in expensive parts (IE: Bolt in motor mount).   It may let out a 'pop' as the lock-tite breaks free. After that you can just use the breaker bar by itself.  It will feel like your damaging something initially. (It may help to have a friend watching the bolt/ hex socket to make sure you're not doing too much damage to the bolt, although some twisting in the bolt head will occur. Hard metal tool, vs less hard metal bolt head, LOTS of torque, something's gotta give.)

As you get closer to getting the bolt out (As it gets easier; the threads still need to be catching tho. If they're not, you risk damaging expensive parts.), turn it back to the right a bit (This time with a slight jolt) to free the hex-head from the socket-cap bolt, then continue to remove the bolt.

After the bolt is removed, take a can of air (Or air compressor if you own one like me) and blow the loose thread-locker out.  Clean off the bolt threads too.    Your best option next is to use a Tap and tap-handle, but if you don't have one, I will give an alternative. 

VERY CAREFULLY Run a long tap (Cannot verify the thread pitch at this time) through the motor mount. You want to be extra sure that you DO NOT SEE ANY METAL SHAVINGS.  If you do, stop, back up, and even more carefully start over.  You risk messing the threads up in your really expensive parts and having to explain that to your wife.

If you don't feel like spending money on a tap and die set, (Or if you're too lazy to go to the shed to get one of the 5 sets you own like me) you can clean off the factory bolt and VERY CAREFULLY thread it partially back in and out, each time blowing the loose thread locker out with compressed air. that should get it clean enough. 

VERY IMPORTANT NOTE:  IF YOU ENCOUNTER ANY HARD RESISTANCE (a little is normal due to the thread locker) DO NOT! DO NOT! DO NOT! FORCE IT!!!!  Don't force anything on this step.  If you do, the hard metal bolt can possibly dig into the soft metal threads on the motor mount and destroy the threads, causing thousands of dollars in damage for you to explain to your wife. The best way to install these (or at least get them started) is by hand (What I did is use a ratchet extension as a screwdriver to help get past the fairing, I did not remove the plastic. too lazy when I was working in the cold.)  Unless you're a big green guy that has some serious anger management issues, you're not going to cross-thread the bolt and damage the threads.




After you have everything assembled, it's a good idea to go through and apply thread-locker accordingly, and frequently check the bolts for tightness to make sure nothing comes loose when it's not supposed to (Like the MCE instructions say to...)




I think I covered everything that I've seen brought up, or that I think could pose an issue for people. Feel free to mention anything else or ask any other questions and I will try to update this post (or maybe a mod can after the edit button goes away for me?) I really hope this helps.  Other than that, the instructions are very straight forward, clear, and easy to understand so good job MCE!





Also a side note: I love my wife with everything I've got.  For some reason, she just doesn't like paying lots of money for a stupid mistake... 

I have been thinking about getting the Canyon Cages and have been reading the different post about the install. It sounds like that front motor mount bolt is fastened with red Locktight, if that is the case then why isn't everyone simply putting a small torch to the bolt to loosen up the Locktight? I have read that some people do it but apparently like you not everyone is. If you did heat it you wouldn't need the Snap On tool or the monster breaker bar and would surely lessen any chance of breaking parts. I just think that this should be an absolute must use for this installation as even Locktight says must use heat to take apart.

The reason I didn't add the "Heat" to it is because I am not a huge fan of having an open flame of a propane or mapp-gas torch near all the heat-sensative stuff in that confined space. While yes, Heat does help loosen the lock-tite, the amount of heat put out by a torch could easily melt other components under (IE, all the rubber hoses in the vicinity, esp on the right side)

I suppose one could take a sacrificial screwdriver (or other similar piece of metal) and heat it up red hot and touch it to the bolt to heat it up that way.  It would take longer to heat it up but less risk of melting other components.

EDIT: Not to mention most people do not have a hose for their torches, if they have one.  Most just have the $8 twist the knob, use an ignition source, and fire comes out the end of the stick at the top of the propane/ mapp canister style torch.

Hoping to get a sticky out of this post. I have seen a lot of threads asking a lot of questions about the installation of the MC Enterprises Canyon cages

Nice write up.

+1 on the using good quality tools, especially, the allen socket to prevent stripping the bolt heads.  I was able to get the engine mount bolts out fairly easily using a 16 inch, 1/2 inch drive breaker bar.  I must be one of the lucky ones.  To clean out the old Kawi thread locker I used a brass bore brush from a gun cleaning kit.  I am less likely to damage the threads that way.  Finally, install everything by hand.  It is very difficult to cross thread the engine bolts by hand.

Instead of a torch you can hold a soldering iron against the hex bolt head for a bit & that will help soften up the lock-tite, Safer than trying to get in there with an open flame!!!!   

Wow!
Very excellent write up. As I read it, I shuddered at all the things that could have gone wrong back when I did my install. I used Craftsman and/or Harbor Freight, with a 2 foot cheater bar. Used no heat, no air hose, no taps, no dies...nothing. Took me probably 20 minutes to install fronts and the rears, all by myself. And that's counting having to do it twice because I forgot the Loctite the first time.

I did have the foresight/luck to have the bike on the center stand first, thereby avoiding any possible mis-alignment that might have been cause by side-stand leaning. You might want to include that in your write up. It's probably wise to keep the frame...the entire bike...as free from leans and twists as possible while doing the install.

Sometimes it IS better to be lucky than good! At least in my case.

Instead of a torch you can hold a soldering iron against the hex bolt head for a bit & that will help soften up the lock-tite, Safer than trying to get in there with an open flame!!!! 

  why didn't I think of that.....

Wow!
Very excellent write up. As I read it, I shuddered at all the things that could have gone wrong back when I did my install. I used Craftsman and/or Harbor Freight, with a 2 foot cheater bar. Used no heat, no air hose, no taps, no dies...nothing. Took me probably 20 minutes to install fronts and the rears, all by myself. And that's counting having to do it twice because I forgot the Loctite the first time.

I did have the foresight/luck to have the bike on the center stand first, thereby avoiding any possible mis-alignment that might have been cause by side-stand leaning. You might want to include that in your write up. It's probably wise to keep the frame...the entire bike...as free from leans and twists as possible while doing the install.

Sometimes it IS better to be lucky than good! At least in my case.

Thank you! Totally forgot about that common mistake too. I tried to get everything but no one can be perfect haha.  I'll throw that up. 

You got lucky lol (Or you're just that good).  I've seen reports of people breaking off allen heads, stripping the bolts, stripping the threads at the motor mount, etc. Doesn't sound like my idea of a good time!

My rears only took me about 5 minutes per side.  The fronts took me quite a bit longer.








Thanks for all the refinement ideas guys!  I'm glad that we have the opportunity to get this all in one place for people to not have to search around a whole lot like I did to find the answers.  Hopefully we can get a couple more people in here with their ideas as well (MCE Rick?!)

Sorry...mine's a 2010.

Then that is interesting.  I have wondered if the /\/\ega application of threadlock was just limited to certain years or production runs.  Haven't spotted a pattern yet except it is apparently not an issue with gen1 ( 2008-2009).

Thanks for the write-up! I always greatly appreciate when people give well-articulated notes on our products.

Although Ryan says it's not necessary to take off the middle fairing(s), I personally recommend that they come off when you're installing it for the first time. To mount the fairing off and on while keeping the cages on there's a photo that Ryan showed me, that shows where to use a hacksaw to cut off about an inch of plastic near the vents.

Only one cut is needed for the 2010 fairing (not two as the picture would indicate). It was a lot of physical effort on my end just to crank off those engine bolts. I used a hex nut socket, with a 8" extender, with a 18" long socket wrench with a swivel head.

Rather then fear scratching the fairings, removing them made a lot of sense. Plus the cut on the fairings makes it easier to refill the coolant reservoir and change out the air filter.

  installed the Canyon Cages front, with pegs, and rears in a 1.5hrs (rears took 20min both sides). Heat a wire barrel brush, red and blue lock tight were needed as well. Just a little tedious installing the braces inside the fins other than that all went well.
Having the pegs allowed for up to 10 hrs. in the saddle on a recent trip to the Rockies.

AlbertaDoug, just got my Canyon Cages yesterday and started reading the threads on this forum and the other as well. Yea, I know I should have done that first. I have to say that after reading everything I'm torn about starting this project. Seems like some, like you, have a pretty easy time with the install but for some it's been a cluster. I have just about everything in my arsenal to tackle the job but...The last thing I want to do is break a motor mount or F something up really bad. I really like the way the cages look on the bike and also look forward to the confidence they will give me once they are on. Are most folks having a pretty easy time with this or should I give up and send them back before I mess my pride and joy up? I have a second gen 2010 if that makes any difference. I always did all my own work on my old C10 but the C14 is a whole new ball game. 

With the info from this thread I was able to find the confidence to do the install. I used a small torch to focus(tucked a small piece of sheet metal in to protect pieces from the heat)the heat on the engine mount bolts( after I broke a Allen socket). The 30 cal wire brush cleaned the remaining thread lock out of the threads to allow for easier reinstall of motor mount bolts. Patience is the key to installing the braces.
I too was a little hesitant but couldn't justify $110.00/hr shop rate.
The first post of this tread from Stephan helped.

AlbertaDog, thanks for the reply. I walked through the steps visually yesterday and it all looks pretty simple. I'm going to press on after I gather a few things for the job.

How many mounting points are on one side of the bike for the canyon cages on a 2010 or post bike.

How many mounting points are on one side of the bike for the canyon cages on a 2010 or post bike.

2... One at the engine mount, and one back by the swingarm pivot.

2... One at the engine mount, and one back by the swingarm pivot.

?  Maybe I misread his question... but I believe there are three, not two.  Two at engine mount points and one at the swingwarm pivot.

?  Maybe I misread his question... but I believe there are three, not two.  Two at engine mount points and one at the swingwarm pivot.

There's only 2 mounts on each side, rear upper engine mount and front upper engine mount. The canyon cage has a second brace up front but it just connects back to itself, to the top part of the cage.

There's only 2 mounts on each side, rear upper engine mount and front upper engine mount. The canyon cage has a second brace up front but it just connects back to itself, to the top part of the cage.

OK, I see what you mean.  Technically yes, there are only two points... although it looks like three and uses three bolts on each side.

Well I keep worrying that it wouldnt work on the left side with my cruise control being like this:

And I cant find pictures on line of the install showing this area.