Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => Accessories and modifications - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: phoneman on January 20, 2014, 04:47:53 PM
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Installed front and rear Canyon cages yesterday. Everything was pretty easy--and there was a good amount of red locktite on the engine mount bolts.
Put in the new bolts and realized I didn't know what the torque values are supposed to be for the motor mounts. Got the new bolts installed and just snugged down for the time being.
Anybody got any idea what the bolts should be torqued to ?
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http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=9386.180 (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=9386.180)
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Thanks Gumby.
So the upper front bolts torque to 17 ft/lbs. The lower front bolts torque to 44 ft/lbs.
The rear bolt torques to 44 ft/lbs.
Thanks again.
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Remember to use new Loctite when you reassemble. I used blue, cause that's what I had.
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Phoneman, can I ask your help and assistance with my own install of the canyon cages ?
I put the rears on with no problem at all in under 20 minutes but I'm yet to tackle the fronts.
Did you remove the fairings to install the fronts ? Do you have to take them off ?
I find the instructions very confusing. Don't know if it's just me or what but I'm going crazy trying to figure this out !
You didn't take any pics of the process by chance ?
I'm so eagerly awaiting someone to post a video or at least detailed photos of their install process.
My Connie is a 2009
Thanks much
Dan
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Remember to use new Loctite when you reassemble. I used blue, cause that's what I had.
I didn't use any.
There was so much in the holes already, I figured it didn't need it.
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I didn't use any.
There was so much in the holes already, I figured it didn't need it.
::) :-X :rotflmao:
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And so it begins...
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And so it begins...
:rotflmao: :rotflmao:
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I didn't use any.
There was so much in the holes already, I figured it didn't need it.
Tell us more. Any friction as you were screwing? Did you bottom out in the hole?
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Tell us more. Any friction as you were screwing? Did you bottom out in the hole?
Now that just sounds really kinky .................... :rotflmao: :rotflmao: :rotflmao: :rotflmao: :chugbeer:
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And so it begins...
Morning Jim :salute:......................If yer can't beat them........join um :rotflmao: :chugbeer:
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Tell us more. Any friction as you were screwing? Did you bottom out in the hole?
LOL, OMG.
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Canada-Dan----I removed the fairings on my 09 before I installed the cages. It just made it a lot easier without all the plastic in the way.
I also went ahead and cut the fairing while I had it off. Putting the plastic back on should be pretty easy.
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Can't have this at all. You're back on topic...
Seriously, this is a good topic, especially for me. Mine are still in a box.
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Can't have this at all. You're back on topic...
Seriously, this is a good topic, especially for me. Mine are still in a box.
:rotflmao: :salute:
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What are you laughing at? The cages are absolutely safe in that box. I'm going to install them when it gets a bit warmer as I need to take the front end apart for some other maintenance.
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Phoneman, can I ask your help and assistance with my own install of the canyon cages ?
I put the rears on with no problem at all in under 20 minutes but I'm yet to tackle the fronts.
Did you remove the fairings to install the fronts ? Do you have to take them off ?
I find the instructions very confusing. Don't know if it's just me or what but I'm going crazy trying to figure this out !
You didn't take any pics of the process by chance ?
I'm so eagerly awaiting someone to post a video or at least detailed photos of their install process.
My Connie is a 2009
Thanks much
Dan
Unless you modify the fairings, they HAVE to be on before you can install the canyon cages. At least on a 2010 it's no problem to do it all without removing any fairings. I do find that having a ratcheting wrench makes getting the upper right bolt much easier to get in and out. But a gen 1 might be completely different, I don't know.
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I sure hope I don't have to pull the cages off just to get the plastic back on. ???
I made the cuts to the middle fairings and I know they will go back on. The rest of the plastic hopefully won't be too difficult to get back on.
Of course all of it is still lying on the shop floor.
I'm procrastinating like some other folks here. I'm not mentioning any names. ::)
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Jim USE fresh loctite ;)
Don't pull a max ;D
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I don't think his cages have fell off, have they? I can't believe that they would vibrate loose....on a C10, yes of course, but not on a C14.
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Max has less than 10,000 miles on his three year old bike, he might have 4,000 miles since his install, a real test of time ::) red locktite is serious stuff if the factory thought blue was good enough they would have used it!
I learned a little bit along the way ... Do it RIGHT.
I started racing go-karts at a young age , snowmobiles at 16 , drag cars at 17 a 68 roadrunner
Believe me they use red locktite for good reason,
My outboard motor builder was installing the rod nuts on a fresh rebuild and I brought out a new stick form of locktite , he told me to keep it!
You do as you wish , I guess Max knows more than mother Kaw. lots of luck.
http://www.henkelna.com/us/content_data/168592_LT4985_Threadlocking_Guide.pdf (http://www.henkelna.com/us/content_data/168592_LT4985_Threadlocking_Guide.pdf)
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If memory serves correct (which is very questionable after Tuesday night beers) I think Max is still on his original set of OEM tires, soooo me thinks mileage is even less. :-\
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I sure hope I don't have to pull the cages off just to get the plastic back on. ???
I made the cuts to the middle fairings and I know they will go back on. The rest of the plastic hopefully won't be too difficult to get back on.
If you made the cuts to the middle fairings you won't have to pull the cages to put them back on. When I put cages on my 2008 I fished the cage through the middle fairing, although in all honesty if I have to remove the fairings for any sort of maintenance I'll probably just make the cuts anyways at that point.
I re-read those instructions about 10 times prior to starting, and I'm not one to normally read them at all! Step by step pictures would of rocked and I thought about it halfway through the process but by then it was too late to start documenting it.
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Max has less than 10,000 miles on his three year old bike, he might have 4,000 miles since his install, a real test of time ::) red locktite is serious stuff if the factory thought blue was good enough they would have used it!
I learned a little bit along the way ... Do it RIGHT.
I started racing go-karts at a young age , snowmobiles at 16 , drag cars at 17 a 68 roadrunner
Believe me they use red locktite for good reason,
My outboard motor builder was installing the rod nuts on a fresh rebuild and I brought out a new stick form of locktite , he told me to keep it!
You do as you wish , I guess Max knows more than mother Kaw. lots of luck.
http://www.henkelna.com/us/content_data/168592_LT4985_Threadlocking_Guide.pdf (http://www.henkelna.com/us/content_data/168592_LT4985_Threadlocking_Guide.pdf)
From some of the things I've seen with this bike and quality control, my belief in mother Kaw is not that strong..
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Max has less than 10,000 miles on his three year old bike, he might have 4,000 miles since his install, a real test of time ::)
And my 4 year old car has 15,000 miles on it, I think.
You do as you wish , I guess Max knows more than mother Kaw. lots of luck.
1) I never claimed to know more than Kawasaki.
2) I never recommended that anyone else do what I did. It was just what I did.
3) It has been discussed several times already that gen 1 bikes (which are the same engine and mounts) had no such amount of thread lock on those bolts and nobody ever reported them ever being loose or having coming out.
4) Without adding any additional thread lock it was almost as hard to get the new bolts in as taking the old ones out.
5) My friend, who is a master race mechanic helped me install them and HE said it shouldn't be necessary to add any more and that what was on it was insanely excessive. Does HE know more than Kawasaki? I don't know. But he knows a hell of a lot more than me. And it is quite possible that the amount of thread lock used was not what Kawasaki engineers were calling for in the first place, or that it was a mistake.
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If memory serves correct (which is very questionable after Tuesday night beers) I think Max is still on his original set of OEM tires, soooo me thinks mileage is even less. :-\
I don't pay much attention to the mileage, except when it is near service intervals. I believe it is somewhere in the 9,000 range now. I am still on the OEM tires- I think the front is nearly shot now.
I live 4 blocks from work and I hate long distance riding of any sort (which I define as more than 200 miles). My body has lots of issues, and that is the extent of my range. The Concours is strictly a pleasure vehicle; I take it on many dozens of 50 mile trips, several 100 mile trips, and several 200 mile trips per year.
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If anyone has any specific questions (besides simply "how do I install these?!") related to the installation of any of our products, feel free to call us via our toll free number during normal business hours. It's always best to ask questions if you're stuck rather than guess and chance a screw-up. If I can't help you, we have a Tech here full time that certainly can. You can email me, PM me, or simply call (866.886.2368) and I'll be sure to get back to you.
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And this is why we buy from you!
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And this is why we buy from you!
You guys rule! 8)
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I will be tackling my install starting tomorrow.
I may be giving you a call Ryan
Thanks much
Dan
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Can't have this at all. You're back on topic...
Seriously, this is a good topic, especially for me. Mine are still in a box.
Still keeping that shelf in the garage safe?
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:salute: Absolutely! I'm now waiting for it to warm up. I wish I had a heated garage so I could work in it during the winter months.... ::)
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:salute: Absolutely! I'm now waiting for it to warm up. I wish I had a heated garage so I could work in it during the winter months.... ::)
Bring it inside ;D
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That would be nice indeed but I'm not set up for that, unfortunately.
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I will be tackling my install starting tomorrow.
I may be giving you a call Ryan
Thanks much
Dan
Sounds good! I'll be in and out of the office today as I have to return a bike we were borrowing but the Tech (his name is Armando) will be here all day. Feel free to call and ask for him if I'm out of the office when you call.
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Started the install today. There's been plenty of interruptions but I got all the plastics off and so far I've removed the rear engine bolt and both right side bolts.
QUESTION : are you supposed to take the cages apart and reassemble them on the bike ? Step 22 talks about an "s" bracket and again in step 28
Dan
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Started the install today. There's been plenty of interruptions but I got all the plastics off and so far I've removed the rear engine bolt and both right side bolts.
Normally you do not take off the plastics to install the bars. Otherwise you are going to have to try and figure out how to cut them (which is optional) without much idea as to how they work.
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I decided to remove the plastics and cut them for easier removal again down the road for maintenance
Dan
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I decided to remove the plastics and cut them for easier removal again down the road for maintenance
Dan
Good choice. :thumbs:
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Is this normal for the way it looks looking in the hole of the front lower right side engine bolt hole ??
I have the upper front bolt in all the way so I'm assuming that this means that the lower should be sitting in the right place too but it just looks weird to me.
As well I get the lower bolt in about 3 or four full turns by hand and it start getting tight. I've got all the lock tight out of the hole so that's not it
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Ryan, it's been almost 2 years since your last group buy, any chance we could test the waters for another one?