Author Topic: Final Drive Paranoia  (Read 14076 times)

Offline Conrad

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Re: Final Drive Paranoia
« Reply #40 on: January 30, 2012, 04:50:47 AM »
Here is an alternate way of changing your final drive oil:

Leave the drain plug in, and remove the fill plug.  Then pick up the bike with both hands, flip it upside down, and drain the oil into a suitable container.  Let drain for about 2 minutes, while holding the bike steady in its inverted position over the pan.   ;D


I tired that once but I kept spilling my beer.
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Offline VirginiaJim

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Re: Final Drive Paranoia
« Reply #41 on: January 30, 2012, 04:54:51 AM »
That would put the kibosh on it for me.
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Re: Final Drive Paranoia
« Reply #42 on: January 30, 2012, 08:11:17 AM »
I tired that once but I kept spilling my beer.
You need a new sippy cup.

Offline Mister Tee

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Re: Final Drive Paranoia
« Reply #43 on: January 30, 2012, 10:49:09 AM »
Here is some things I DON'T MISS about my Beemer.....

1.  Throw the bike on the centerstand.
2.  Remove side cases.
3.  Unbolt the exhaust can from its mount and loosen at the midpipe.
4.  Rotate the exhaust can away from the rear wheel.
5.  Remove the rear wheel.
6.  Remove the rear brake.
7.  Remove the speedometer sensor.
8.  Unbolt the top of the final drive retaining link.
9.  Place drain under final drive.
10.  Remove final drive drain plug.
11.  Rotate final drive assembly down and drain oil.
12.  Rotate final drive assembly upwards, seating dust shield and engaging drive shaft splines.
13.  Using a 100 mL horse syringe, meter in 180 mL of final drive oil**
14.  Replace speedometer sensor and rear brake.
15.  Replace rear wheel.
16.  Re-mount exhaust can to hangar.  Tighten clamp bolt at mid pipe.
17.  Replace side cases.
18.  Clean up mess you made metering final drive oil through the drain plug.

**Beemer recently changed their specifications from 240 mL to 180 mL to address seal failure issues.  180 mL may be added through the drain plug, and happens to be to the bottom of the threads, making the process easier.  You STILL need some sort of injector device to get it through the drain plug hole.  Previously, you metered the oil through the speedometer sensor hole, which was much smaller and you had no visual indication of the level, so you actually had to measure the quantity going in.  I used the previously mentioned horse syringe and a small length of fish tank air tube.  The tube is not necessary if you are adding it through the drain plug.

Offline Conrad

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Re: Final Drive Paranoia
« Reply #44 on: January 30, 2012, 11:09:36 AM »
You need a new sippy cup.

Either that or I'm drinking too slow.
Northern Illinois   Silverdammit '08 C-14 ABS

"Don't bother me with facts, Son. I've already made up my mind." -Foghorn Leghorn

Offline ZG

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Re: Final Drive Paranoia
« Reply #45 on: January 30, 2012, 03:33:54 PM »
Either that or I'm drinking too slow.

Need to borrow a beer bong C?  ;)
 
« Last Edit: January 30, 2012, 05:28:39 PM by ZG »

Offline Z71

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Re: Final Drive Paranoia
« Reply #46 on: January 30, 2012, 09:03:59 PM »
Here is some things I DON'T MISS about my Beemer.....

1.  Throw the bike on the centerstand.
2.  Remove side cases.
3.  Unbolt the exhaust can from its mount and loosen at the midpipe.
4.  Rotate the exhaust can away from the rear wheel.
5.  Remove the rear wheel.
6.  Remove the rear brake.
7.  Remove the speedometer sensor.
8.  Unbolt the top of the final drive retaining link.
9.  Place drain under final drive.
10.  Remove final drive drain plug.
11.  Rotate final drive assembly down and drain oil.
12.  Rotate final drive assembly upwards, seating dust shield and engaging drive shaft splines.
13.  Using a 100 mL horse syringe, meter in 180 mL of final drive oil**
14.  Replace speedometer sensor and rear brake.
15.  Replace rear wheel.
16.  Re-mount exhaust can to hangar.  Tighten clamp bolt at mid pipe.
17.  Replace side cases.
18.  Clean up mess you made metering final drive oil through the drain plug.

**Beemer recently changed their specifications from 240 mL to 180 mL to address seal failure issues.  180 mL may be added through the drain plug, and happens to be to the bottom of the threads, making the process easier.  You STILL need some sort of injector device to get it through the drain plug hole.  Previously, you metered the oil through the speedometer sensor hole, which was much smaller and you had no visual indication of the level, so you actually had to measure the quantity going in.  I used the previously mentioned horse syringe and a small length of fish tank air tube.  The tube is not necessary if you are adding it through the drain plug.

Holy smoke! Are you sure you did not forget "remove the engine from the frame" step in there somewhere?    :D

Offline Conrad

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Re: Final Drive Paranoia
« Reply #47 on: January 31, 2012, 04:39:45 AM »

Need to borrow a beer bong C?  ;)
 


Um, I'll pass on that J, thanks though!   :P
Northern Illinois   Silverdammit '08 C-14 ABS

"Don't bother me with facts, Son. I've already made up my mind." -Foghorn Leghorn

Offline VirginiaJim

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Re: Final Drive Paranoia
« Reply #48 on: January 31, 2012, 04:56:03 AM »
I like how he is thinking, though.
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Offline Mister Tee

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Re: Final Drive Paranoia
« Reply #49 on: January 31, 2012, 10:47:45 AM »
Holy smoke! Are you sure you did not forget "remove the engine from the frame" step in there somewhere?    :D

That is is ACTUALLY the procedure to change the final drive oil in a 1200RT.  It is not an embellishment!

Offline ZG

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Re: Final Drive Paranoia
« Reply #50 on: January 31, 2012, 11:43:10 AM »
I like how he is thinking, though.

I senced some hesitation as well Sparky...  ;D