Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => Accessories and modifications - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: Dan Forker on May 30, 2013, 07:09:39 AM
-
I have Denali lights mounted on my 2012 C14 on the reflector mounts and would like to get them up higher. I just completed putting Canyon Cages on the bike and thought that I could move the lights up to them but now that they are in place I can't see any way to put the lights up on the CC's w/o putting them on the outside of them which I think makes them protrude away from the bike too far. I know that there are bar clamps available to mount them, just don't know where to put them. Have any of you mounted lights on the CC's and if so how and where? Thanks for your help.
Fork
-
I believe there are mirror mounts that allow you to mount them below the mirrors....trying to find them as I have seen them before.
-
Found them...
Concours 14 & GTR 1400 Driving Light Mounts
The original C-14 driving light mounts. Developed over 5 years ago, they have proven popular with C-14/ZG-1400 riders worldwide. By placing the lights under the mirrors, your lights will be in the perfect location for maximum long range lighting or excellent conspicuity with either halogen or LED lights. These mounts are machined from 6061-T6 billet aluminum and are satin, black anodized. They do not overlap the mirror base. All mounting hardware is stainless steel.
Part # C-02121 - Price: $85.00
http://bucksporttouring.com/lights.html (http://bucksporttouring.com/lights.html)
-
I used 'P' clamps on my Canyon Cages. It seems to work OK. I can take some pics after work if you like and post them.
-
Found them...
http://bucksporttouring.com/lights.html (http://bucksporttouring.com/lights.html)
They look like earrings :)
(http://bucksporttouring.com/images/c10-lightbar--sm.jpg)
-
Chap:
I'd be really interested in seeing your pic's. Bucks under mirror mounts look ok but I don't know how they get the wiring out of the fairing to the lights. The Canyon Cages would be a piece of cake if there's a suitable way to mount the lights. Where did you get the P mounts? My bike is black and so are the CC's so I need black clamps. Thanks.
Fork
-
Dan Here are some photos. I ordered Black Clamps, but when they came in they were Chrome, It wasn't worth arguing so I took them, I will change them to Black at some point. I was worried about them being too much outboard of the cages, but I think it looks pretty good. I got them from the Kawi dealership, but any bike accessory shop would have them.
-
I bought;
http://www.twistedthrottle.com/techmount-light-mount-kit-pair-for-7-8-1-or-28mm-crashbars-and-handlebars-black-or-silver (http://www.twistedthrottle.com/techmount-light-mount-kit-pair-for-7-8-1-or-28mm-crashbars-and-handlebars-black-or-silver)
to mount mine on my Canyon Cage bars. They should be here tomorrow!
-Jeff
-
Chap - your lights do look good as mounted. Thanks for taking the time to post the photo's.
Udoggie's mounts from Twisted Throttle look good also. I hope he can post some photo's when he gets his mounted. Buck's under mirror mounts are another approach. Too many alternatives. The higher mount of Bucks could be a real advantage. At first I didn't like the look of the under mirror mount but it grows on you.
Fork
-
I have the Buck's mounted on my 09... I think I have one of his first sets. They are well machined, pretty easy to install. They did what they are supposed to do. I don't use them anymore, but they are still installed in case I go back to them.
For late night riding visibility, lighting up higher is better, it reaches out further.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-aPaYD1yRYlc/T3-iQjIzAqI/AAAAAAAAAmA/MSzwQu1DO_Y/w958-h719-no/mount2.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-BUnDBMDSPGg/T3-iUuRnnsI/AAAAAAAAAmA/WcvFNiLh0Bs/w958-h719-no/mount3.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-8N1VCh0x8wM/T3-jO31vTaI/AAAAAAAAAmU/QJE-D4ZAe_8/w958-h719-no/mount1.jpg)
... and with some monster HID's on them...
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-_u3vFcHYESM/TAU0TSh9WcI/AAAAAAAAAMw/nSoSLzB2gCs/w768-h510-no/c14-008.jpg)
-
The way my C14 eats headlight bulbs I need some different lighting. 3 now in 76,000 miles.
I think its the mad pow-ah of KiPass, bulbs can't handle it!
-
Sylvania Silverstar Ultra's are what I have always used... they go quicker than some others, but are brighter and have a better pattern.
I've heard the Osram side of the brand last longer, from my more "frugal" riding buddies.
-
They look like earrings :)
(http://bucksporttouring.com/images/c10-lightbar--sm.jpg)
:rotflmao: and I haven't even started drinking yet. Going to remedy that now.
-
:rotflmao: and I haven't even started drinking yet. Going to remedy that now.
I knew I had seen those on a bike before... :o I forgot I had the FF50's on for a while. :o
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-YJEUhp4zOQk/S85IPi6i8KI/AAAAAAAAAFg/lPFWoRK9uwo/w1024-h680-no/Mooshine+005.JPG)
-
http://www.twistedthrottle.com/denali-auxiliary-light-mounting-bracket-honda-nc700x-12-20 (http://www.twistedthrottle.com/denali-auxiliary-light-mounting-bracket-honda-nc700x-12-20)
Anybody have these mounted up yet? I've been looking into putting a set of driving lights on my 2011. Looking at putting the DR1 on probably with the amber driving beam cover.
-
http://www.twistedthrottle.com/denali-auxiliary-light-mounting-bracket-honda-nc700x-12-20 (http://www.twistedthrottle.com/denali-auxiliary-light-mounting-bracket-honda-nc700x-12-20)
Anybody have these mounted up yet? I've been looking into putting a set of driving lights on my 2011. Looking at putting the DR1 on probably with the amber driving beam cover.
See also:
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=5117 (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=5117)
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=12640.msg154586#msg154586 (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=12640.msg154586#msg154586)
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=14661.msg179838 (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=14661.msg179838)
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=17782 (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=17782)
Looks like many have similar mounting options
-
They look like earrings :)
(http://bucksporttouring.com/images/c10-lightbar--sm.jpg)
I have clicked on the BST link and it brings me to the C10 under headlight mount. I searched his sight and can't find any light mounts for the C14
-
http://www.twistedthrottle.com/denali-auxiliary-light-mounting-bracket-honda-nc700x-12-20 (http://www.twistedthrottle.com/denali-auxiliary-light-mounting-bracket-honda-nc700x-12-20)
Anybody have these mounted up yet? I've been looking into putting a set of driving lights on my 2011. Looking at putting the DR1 on probably with the amber driving beam cover.
Despite the honda nc700 reference in the link (and the various mount links that max' posted) this appears to be a substantially stout and different C14 lower light mount than I have ever seen before. Good find Marc'
Maybe I don't get out enough.
For a better view of it look at the install instructions.
http://d1l4i7f87txqmq.cloudfront.net/Installation%20Instructions/Denali/Light_Mount/Instructions_LAH.08.10200_rev00.pdf (http://d1l4i7f87txqmq.cloudfront.net/Installation%20Instructions/Denali/Light_Mount/Instructions_LAH.08.10200_rev00.pdf)
-
Many have tried to mount lights down low on the front reflector brackets and had metal fatigue crack them. I had hoped that mounting to the more forward fender bolts would be adequate, but not for me. It took longer but the bracket behind the fender broke and then the weight all went to the fender plastic and broke that as well. First the left side (which I repaired) and now the right side.
So I ordered a set of brackets from Twisted Throttle, and they seem quite stout. Made of powder coated steel which is 1/4 inch thick, I think they should hold up. I'll report back here after the install (probably not until Jan '18).
For those still using fender mounts, I suggest perhaps filling the hole in the middle of the bracket (https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-ZmfxD3V/0/f480913b/O/i-ZmfxD3V.jpg) with some epoxy putty. That may dampen vibrations and delay or prevent metal fatigue. Perhaps some engineering types can speculate on the chance of success in this area or offer other suggestions? It is made of aluminum, perhaps fabricating a new one out of steel would be better?
Anyway, I also had Hyper-Whites (white LEDS) on top of my Denali D1 lights (https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-K7kNmVD/1/a55d6d41/O/i-K7kNmVD.jpg) so that added a little extra weight to add to my problem. Although I suspect that their extra aerodynamic load to the mount far exceeded their additional weight effect as they don't weigh that much compared to the light below them.
as yet to be mounted brackets from Twisted Throttle
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-JP6VThM/0/5c6453e5/L/i-JP6VThM-L.jpg) (https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-JP6VThM/0/5c6453e5/O/i-JP6VThM.jpg)
-
http://www.twistedthrottle.com/denali-auxiliary-light-mounting-bracket-honda-nc700x-12-20 (http://www.twistedthrottle.com/denali-auxiliary-light-mounting-bracket-honda-nc700x-12-20)
Anybody have these mounted up yet? I've been looking into putting a set of driving lights on my 2011. Looking at putting the DR1 on probably with the amber driving beam cover.
Yes....had them on since April this year. Like them!!
-
Many have tried to mount lights down low on the front reflector brackets and had metal fatigue crack them. I had hoped that mounting to the more forward fender bolts would be adequate, but not for me. It took longer but the bracket behind the fender broke and then the weight all went to the fender plastic and broke that as well. First the left side (which I repaired) and now the right side.
So I ordered a set of brackets from Twisted Throttle, and they seem quite stout. Made of powder coated steel which is 1/4 inch thick, I think they should hold up. I'll report back here after the install (probably not until Jan '18).
For those still using fender mounts, I suggest perhaps filling the hole in the middle of the bracket (https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-ZmfxD3V/0/f480913b/O/i-ZmfxD3V.jpg) with some epoxy putty. That may dampen vibrations and delay or prevent metal fatigue. Perhaps some engineering types can speculate on the chance of success in this area or offer other suggestions? It is made of aluminum, perhaps fabricating a new one out of steel would be better?
Anyway, I also had Hyper-Whites (white LEDS) on top of my Denali D1 lights (https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-K7kNmVD/1/a55d6d41/O/i-K7kNmVD.jpg) so that added a little extra weight to add to my problem. Although I suspect that their extra aerodynamic load to the mount far exceeded their additional weight effect as they don't weigh that much compared to the light below them.
as yet to be mounted brackets from Twisted Throttle
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-JP6VThM/0/5c6453e5/L/i-JP6VThM-L.jpg) (https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-JP6VThM/0/5c6453e5/O/i-JP6VThM.jpg)
Hey did you end up mounting these yet? I’m considering buying a set for my 09’ connie And would love to hear how u like them
-
Hey did you end up mounting these yet? I’m considering buying a set for my 09’ connie And would love to hear how u like them
Yes I did mount them and I do like them! I've only put about 2000 miles on them but they installed easily and hold the lights just fine.
Sorry for the delay, since my previous mount took out the plastic boss where the fender mounts in the front, I had to do a little sculpting
work with epoxy putty and SS washers. If it wasn't for that I would have got this accomplished quicker.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-ss2pnCb/0/245461ff/L/i-ss2pnCb-L.jpg) (https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-ss2pnCb/0/245461ff/O/i-ss2pnCb.jpg)
-
Looks great! Now, out of curiosity, how big is the hole on the mounts that the bolt goes through to hold your lights? I'd be buying a set of lights on amazon far cheaper than denali's, but hope they fit! I've used the kind im buying on other bikes and like them, just want to be sure. And also, do you have exact instructions for how to wife the aux lights? I know how to build connectors, etc., but need the specs and location of the input..my understanding is that it's up by the headlight for the front connector, and another under the seat...just curious if you have the quick instructions.
Thanks!
Connor
-
Looks great! Now, out of curiosity, how big is the hole on the mounts that the bolt goes through to hold your lights?
Well I didn't measure the hole. I would have to go out and disassemble mine to measure it for you, and contrary to rumors being spread by B.D.F., I'm just not that nice a guy.
The bolt that is supplied for the hole you are asking about is M8X20 and I recall it going right in and not being too sloppy. Shouldn't be a problem either drill it bigger or get sleeve
for yours if the hole is too large.
And also, do you have exact instructions for how to wife the aux lights? I know how to build connectors, etc., but need the specs and location of the input..my understanding is that it's up by the headlight for the front connector, and another under the seat...just curious if you have the quick instructions.
I don't have a wiring diagram for you. Mine came with a switch and I had already installed a separate wire from the back where I have a Fuzebox hooked directly to the battery. My wiring got a little more complicated when I realized that I couldn't turn my Denali lights off quick enough and dim my brights when others complained, so I hooked mine up with a diode to the high beam circuit so they go off and on with the high beam but I can still turn them on with the switch regardless of the high beam.
Many use the Auxillary leads in the black boot under the front left top side cover for theirs. Here are some of Fred's pics (http://www.pbase.com/fredharmon/accleads) for the front and rear acc leads, these are all on the same circuit as the dash acc socket, same fuse does them all.
-
No worries! I appreciate the update and response. I'll just need the connectors, it looks like. Another instruction set I saw said, "you will need a pair (one male, one female) bullet connectors of 4mm or 5/32" size to tap into those connectors. " I'll make it happen. I'm gonna put some lights on that will be switched, but no dimming technology. Ppl will just have to put up with my brightness! Ha!
-
I'll make it happen. I'm gonna put some lights on that will be switched, but no dimming technology. Ppl will just have to put up with my brightness! Ha!
...and by the bye..have you seen this post (http://forum.cog-online.org/accessories-c14/aux-light-attachment-to-front-struts/) on the other forum? Could save you some $ if you have any fabrication skills, similar and yet simpler design using steel instead of aluminum. (you'll have to log in over there to see the photos)
-
I hadn't seen those, but boy do they look like a much more cost effective option!!! Next step: Talk him into making me some. Thanks for sharing that man!
-
It must be too early in the morning for me but my brain can't work out how you have this wired up using a diode.
I don't have a wiring diagram for you. Mine came with a switch and I had already installed a separate wire from the back where I have a Fuzebox hooked directly to the battery. My wiring got a little more complicated when I realized that I couldn't turn my Denali lights off quick enough and dim my brights when others complained, so I hooked mine up with a diode to the high beam circuit so they go off and on with the high beam but I can still turn them on with the switch regardless of the high beam.
-
It must be too early in the morning for me but my brain can't work out how you have this wired up using a diode.
Well I could just blurt it out, however just to keep us on our toes mentally I'll give you clues. (or I might have forgotten?)
Anyway having the lights hooked up to two circuits (the switch, and the high beam circuit) a way needed to be devised so that when I turned on the switch that the high beams didn't come on with the Denalis. If I were to do it over I'd skip the switch altogether, however since I went with it first I just didn't feel like undoing it. There might have been a way to do it without the diode, but it worked and was simple enough so I stopped thinking about it
I used a diode somewhere else IIRC when I went to the electronic flasher I'd get some weird flashing going on with the KIPASS flash or something and the diode cured it.
I'll have to get back to you on that after a search here. http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=19650.msg267118#msg267118 (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=19650.msg267118#msg267118)
All the above in this post assumes that "diode" means the same thing on both sides of the Atlantic. If it doesn't then it went right over my head. :)
-
Well I could just blurt it out, however just to keep us on our toes mentally I'll give you clues. (or I might have forgotten?)
Anyway having the lights hooked up to two circuits (the switch, and the high beam circuit) a way needed to be devised so that when I turned on the switch that the high beams didn't come on with the Denalis. If I were to do it over I'd skip the switch altogether, however since I went with it first I just didn't feel like undoing it. There might have been a way to do it without the diode, but it worked and was simple enough so I stopped thinking about it
I used a diode somewhere else IIRC when I went to the electronic flasher I'd get some weird flashing going on with the KIPASS flash or something and the diode cured it.
I'll have to get back to you on that after a search here. http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=19650.msg267118#msg267118 (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=19650.msg267118#msg267118)
All the above in this post assumes that "diode" means the same thing on both sides of the Atlantic. If it doesn't then it went right over my head. :)
I get how you could wire itup using diode so that turning on the Denalis via the separate switch doesn't activate high beam but flicking high beam on will fire up the Denalis and then turn them off again.
What I don't get is how a diode will allow you to turn off the Denalis if they have been turned on by the switch when you then switch the high beam off.
Or don't they ?
In that case you're back where you started after a fashion ;)
realized that I couldn't turn my Denali lights off quick enough and dim my brights when others complained, so I hooked mine up with a diode to the high beam circuit so they go off and on with the high beam but I can still turn them on with the switch regardless of the high beam
-
I get how you could wire itup using diode so that turning on the Denalis via the separate switch doesn't activate high beam but flicking high beam on will fire up the Denalis and then turn them off again.
What I don't get is how a diode will allow you to turn off the Denalis if they have been turned on by the switch when you then switch the high beam off.
Or don't they ?
In that case you're back where you started after a fashion ;)
You are correct, if the switch is on they will not shut off when the high beams are dimmed. I rarely use the switch any more, just the high beam switch to turn them on. I have Hyper White LEDs (a bunch of white LEDs, no reflector) mounted just above the Denalis that come on for conspicuousness during low beam operation. I think that's clear..right?
-
You are correct, if the switch is on they will not shut off when the high beams are dimmed. I rarely use the switch any more, just the high beam switch to turn them on. I have Hyper White LEDs (a bunch of white LEDs, no reflector) mounted just above the Denalis that come on for conspicuousness during low beam operation. I think that's clear..right?
yarp
-
I owe you a thank you! The guy who made the custom brackets is making me some :).
Thanks again
-
I owe you a thank you! The guy who made the custom brackets is making me some :).
Thanks again
Great! I hope those work well for you.