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Have a 2010 Concours with ABS- worked perfectly until yesterday. Went to fire her up and I noticed the red flashing light near the upper left of the info screen was no longer flashing. Could not start or even turn the key. dead dead. I put in a new battery a couple of weeks ago. Checked the 3 fuse boxes under the seat, and the 30A fuse next to the battery ( Perhaps I have missed a fuse??) Battery is fully charged.
Connections to the battery are clean and tight. I tested the battery on my lawn tractor- no problems there.
Thoughts and suggestion
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Did you actually test the fuses or just look at them? With the battery disconnected, it is pretty easy to test each one without pulling them using a continuity meter. The "engine kill" switch will not kill all the electronics, but make sure that wasn't hit (right handlebar). Also check your frame ground connections near the battery to make sure they are all clean and tight. I see only one "main" 30A fuse, which is in the starter relay assembly, which is near the battery. Those connections could also be loose. And there is a 10A "ignition" fuse.
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The red flashing light is a red herring. With the the fob near the bike what exactly happens when you push the ignition key in and let it pop up to activate the kipass system? Does anything appear on the dash screen?
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Thx Maxtog. I pulled the fuses from all 3 fuse blocks under the seats and tested each of them with an ohm meter. I tested the 30A starter relay- I forget if I tested the ignition fuse. If it is in the 3 blocks I did. I cleaned at the connections to the frame and attached tightly. she is dead- cant find any electrical life in her. On another forum one guy said that flashing red light to the upper left of the screen stops after a while. I always saw it. not any more. I even changed the battery in the FOB
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gPink nothing is alive when I push on the kipass and such. I even changed the battery in the FOB. I have to be missing a hidden fuse or a relay
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have you removed the key from the fob and held the notch against the protruding boss on the front side of the ig switch?
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gPink nothing is alive when I push on the kipass and such. I even changed the battery in the FOB. I have to be missing a hidden fuse or a relay
consult the owners manual on using the fob "manually" against the switch housing, and firmly pressing the knob down, repeatedly, as noted above.. but if that doesn't work.. it ain't the fob.
if you lost your manual, free one here...
https://www.kawasaki.com/ServiceManuals/Manual/ZG1400CAF#
its kinda jacked up, and doesn't download well, but you want this section...
start at page 82...
http://www.kawasaki-techinfo.net/showOM.php?view_lang=EN&spec=US&book_no=99987-1707&lang_code=EN
seeing as you are posting here, and also on COG forum, and both places you will get principally the same answers, as we monitor and answer on both...
the red light is the immobilizer function, it shuts down 24 hours after the last time the bike was running, and is turned off... unless the battery was removed, then it's shut down until the bike is re started and shut down again.. it means nothing.
you have an issue with the ignition switch, as when you press it down (you say your battery and all connections are fine...) you do not have the dash activate, nor the bike go thru it's "startup sequence".. press the knob down FIRMLY, and "slide" you grip off it to the side, so to release it so it "slams" upwards by it's internal spring pressure, repeat this a few times... and if this does not cause "activation" after this when it's pressed down completely and firmly, hold the knob fully down, and give it a couple gentle raps with a rubber mallet, or screwdriver handle, then again, release it so it "slams" upwards... the internal switching device, which is spring loaded, is wedged up. Until you get some "continuity" from that lockout portion of the switch, you will not see any power to start, or flash the dash displays, or features that normally follow that, like the fuel pump cycle, tach sweep, lights flash stuff.
I'm not going to say to spray the guts of the switch with WD-40, but someone else may say that. If you do, and it works, well, it might be worth it.. just be cautious, use rags, and don't overspray and contaminate brakes and other stuff.
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have you removed the key from the fob and held the notch against the protruding boss on the front side of the ig switch?
I have tried... no luck getting it out yet
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I have tried... no luck getting it out yet
he's not talking about the knob, that doesn't come out untill the bike is actuated, and the knob is turned to the FSS position... it won't come out now...
he's talking about the FOB that has a key, the one in your pocket, or the other one, the credit card one... go look at what I posted please.... read it...
and PLEASE don't make us jump back and forth between here, and the other forum, to help you. pick one place, and stick thru the responses, until resolution is made.
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Back of large fob....
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Using small fob..... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6CAa82xyJ-M
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thanks G
he has both, supposidly, with a '10 model, both work, I tried to download and create a pdf, but kaw doesn't like that I guess, even tho you can read it all free from the link.
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he's not talking about the knob, that doesn't come out untill the bike is actuated, and the knob is turned to the FSS position... it won't come out now...
he's talking about the FOB that has a key, the one in your pocket, or the other one, the credit card one... go look at what I posted please.... read it...
and PLEASE don't make us jump back and forth between here, and the other forum, to help you. pick one place, and stick thru the responses, until resolution is made.
I saw that video and tried that. Still not able to bring her to life. I assume that technique is for when you do not have the FOB and there bike is still has power to the system (in the background)
I will now try the other stuff you suggested. Will update you tomorrow.
I apologize for posting in 2 places. I read on one of them that not all people are on both. I will keep this thread now and I appreciate all of the help
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You are correct that not everybody is on both forums so you might get ideas from either one. Keep us upon your progress. Get a multimeter and start tracing power from your battery to the fuse boxes.
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There' info here that might be helpfulhttp://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=21797.0
Um yeah, that was me.
[Thx Conrad] After I made my best efforts to destroy my bike I started listening to these guys and finally worked it out. To summarize:
You have what you believe to be a perfectly good "new" battery. All of the fuses have been verified with an ohmeter - not just visually. The red light no longer flashing is not a good symptom if the bike had been shut down for greater that 24 hours. The suspect list of components that could be causing this issue is relatively small at this point. Troubleshooting electrical issues can turn into a maze if you are not careful so try and take one step at a time and write it down.
The problem could (stressing "could") be the Steering Lock Unit (SLU), Key FOBs, and my favorite - Interconnecting Wiring (ICW).
Key FOBs. If the batteries in the FOBs have been replaced and you have also tried holding the FOB next to the raised portion of the SLU while pressing down on the ignition key for several (10) seconds and the bike still does not respond I would look at the SLU next.
The SLU - most probable. My introduction to this problem was the result of that pesky internal switch in the SLU sticking. The act of gently applying mechanical agitation to the side of the switch could free it but I would caution you not to get too aggressive with whatever you bang it with, it is plastic after all. In the end I removed the triple tree and then the SLU. I took it apart and shaved some of the plastic away from the slide.
Good luck.
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About twice now I have had the same problem- press button, nothing. I had to press down hard and flick it up by releasing it instantly and that snaps it back to working.