If anyone can help it would be greatly appreciated.  Going to try and make this story as short as possible.  The other day while riding I was going a little too fast coming into a corner and pressed really hard on the brakes and the back brake would not disengage.  I loosened the bleeder valve on the rear caliper too release the pressure so I could drive the bike home.  Several months later I thought I would try and fix the back brakes tonight as I just changed the front brake pads. 

To start of the bake brake pedal would not move at all. So I loosened the banjo bolt inn the rear master and tried the pedal and it went down just fine.  Tightened the banjo bolt back up and opened the rear bleeder valve and pumped for like 5 minutes and only a few drops came out of the rear bleeder.  Checked the rear reservoir and it was full.

I am suspecting the ABS pump might be bad but not sure.  I wouldn't bypassing abs as I can't seem to find a cheap pump, just not sure what the best way is.  Not really sure where to go next.  Thanks again

The earlier ABS units (non-linked system) seem to be more susceptible to failure due to poor maintenance.  Mine did that 9 years ago and there are similar reports from time to time.

Here's a fix.  I am the seller and have sent a couple to USA in the past.  Contact me by PM if interested.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2540003.m570.l1313&_nkw=115485561972&_sacat=0

The link says no results found, is there a way to bypass the abs pump?

Try this one:

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/115485561972

Yes, it can be bypassed - if you don't want ABS, but not recommended for obvious reasons.

Another question, would it be possible to bypass only the back brakes since they are not linked?

Yes.

Ok last question, what is the easiest way to bypass?  Run a new brake line from the rear master to the rear caliper, or remove the lines from the pump and put a coupler on the lines?

 Run a new brake line from the rear master to the rear caliper....

Yes.  Just plug the displaced lines to prevent fluid leaking until the lines are empty.  Leave everything else in place.

Ok thank you

The symptoms you describe could also be the rear master cylinder. I wouldn’t condemn the ABS before digging further into the rear components.

I agree, currently I am trying to find the brake fitting sizes so I can get a bypass cable too see where the problem lies.  I believe the banjo fitting is a 10mm, not sure, anyone know what size the flare fitting is?  I would like too get a small line with a banjo on one side to put on the rear master and the flare to attach to the flex line going to the rear caliper.

You said “ opened the rear bleeder valve and pumped for like 5 minutes and only a few drops came out of the rear bleeder.” When you did this was the pedal hard or was it soft and easy to press down with little resistance?

I believe the banjo fitting is a 10mm, not sure, anyone know what size the flare fitting is?

They are both 10x1mm from memory but I will confirm tomorrow.

Rear m/cyls do fail - usually from crud in the bore preventing the piston from returning.

Before loosening the banjo bolt on the rear master it would not move at all, after releasing the pressure in the line the pedal now moves down with no resistance.  Feels like it had air in the line but can't get it out.  Thank you Freddy for the info.

CORRECTION - the banjo bolt is 10x1.25mm and the flare fitting thread is 10x1mm.

I have an '09. There were two recalls on the back brake. Check your VIN on Kawasaki.com. There are also two bleeder screws-valves on the back caliper. There is one that faces the rim. The P.O. of my bike never replaced the fluid and it caused the ABS pump to go bad. It was replaced in 2014. I've never had any issues but i change the fluid yearly. There are a lot of rear master cylinders on ebay easier than a rebuild IMHO..