Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => The Bike - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: Peter2011C14 on May 15, 2011, 06:37:33 AM
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I'm leaning towards doing an oil change, shaft oil change, and going over the bike for loose fasteners and keeping the approx. $200 the dealer quoted for the 600 mi. service.
1) That being said, are there any potential Warrantee issues in using a Pure One filter as opposed to Kaw brand? I've seen the PL14612 listed as being correct for the C14.
2) I noticed several references to using Rotella 15/40, and then a warning against using it due to additives? I may just go with what i've been using in all my bikes for several years Mobil I (not MC specific) 15/50.
3) This is my first bike with ABS. Is it normal to experience the foot pedal dive under casual braking (such as a stop sign or traffic light) when the bike is nearing complete stop?
Reminds me of how car brakes felt long ago with a bad master cylinder. There is also a bit of pulsing on the front brake lever at that point? This does NOT happen under firm or hard brake application.
Thanks in advance for information.
Peter
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should not be any warranty problems. at least I don't think there should be. use to manage a jiffy lube years ago and it was posted on public board that any "mandatory filter requirements" made by the manufacturer had to be payed by the manufacturer by law. unless this has changed you should be ok.
rear brake.. can't say what the number is. but alot of people seem to not like the rear brake, myself included. way too much travel for me and when it does grab its very uneventful if not absence all together. one is left to think that better results can be had using the Flintstone braking system!!!!!
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Due to the linked system I can feel a pulse from the rear brake in the front brake lever. I think that is normal for this bike. Can't say about the pedal dive.
15/50 is a bit thick but you have to make sure it does not have "energy conserving" on the oil container. This means it has additives that are not good for the wet clutch.
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Peter, pulsing in a brake lever is a pretty sure sign that your ABS has activated OR you have a warped disc, which with your mileage as low as it is would be highly improbable. You can get to "lock up" on the rear wheel on this bike surprisingly easy, thus actuating your ABS.
This bike is very similar to the ZX12 I had prior to in a lot of ways, with the rear brake feel and actuation all feeling perfectly "normal" to me. In comparison to my KLR650, as one example, you could rate the C14's rear brake feel as "anemic". My brother hopped of a YAmaha FZ1 onto a C14 and was constantly annoyed by the rear brake so he adjusted the brake pedal position so it was one "cog" higher and that has suited him well.
As for oil, you're gonna find as many opinions about this as there are gasholes, and I've used the "bad" Mobil 1 (yep, the energy conserving label one) in many previous wet clutch bikes without even a hint of clutch issues, the last bike turning 20k+ on the odo when I sold it. It's still on it's original clutch.
You're gonna find a lot of "the sky is falling" mentality on this and other forums like it. Goes with the territory. Just turn on your BS filter to "11" and you'll do fine with the plethora of good info on this site (especially).
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I find the rear brake on the C14 to be "dead" feeling. No sense of what's going on, if anything. This is an ABS model, and it's not pulsing. No problems with actual stopping distance, but the pedal is numb.
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Mine works pretty well for what it is (no comparison to the front) after I bled the inward bleed nipple. My 08 brakes are linked via me. I use both all the time and can tell the difference when not using the rear. The sell a brake for each wheel, why not use them. Now this is on an ABS bike so I'm not too concerned with rear wheel lockup. In close to 4 years riding this bike I've only locked the rear (ABS activation) once. Best brakes I've ever had on a bike so far.
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I find the rear brake on the C14 to be "dead" feeling. No sense of what's going on, if anything. This is an ABS model, and it's not pulsing. No problems with actual stopping distance, but the pedal is numb.
The rear brake on all the big Kawasaki's I've ridden in the last decade have a similar, looking for a better word than "dead", feel to them that is different than other bikes. I've never seen it as an issue, just a characteristic. I guess if you were racing, you might want to change it out for something with more feedback, but the unit on these bikes works and works well, maybe just doesn't have the "sudden bite" you might be used to with other bikes.
Having said this, I just finished bleeding my rear caliper and wouldn't you know it, I perceive "better" feel and quicker actuation. All seat of the pants so YMMV but it only takes a couple minutes unless your daughter doesn't understand what "hold the pedal down until I say so" means... :-\
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:rotflmao: Good one.
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the right riding gear spawns mad braking performance (http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/bigthumb.gif)
(http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/ashevillesummer10/jacket.jpg)
(http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/Connie%2014/CIMG0026.jpg)
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The rear brake on all the big Kawasaki's I've ridden in the last decade have a similar, looking for a better word than "dead", feel to them that is different than other bikes. I've never seen it as an issue, just a characteristic. I guess if you were racing, you might want to change it out for something with more feedback, but the unit on these bikes works and works well, maybe just doesn't have the "sudden bite" you might be used to with other bikes.
Having said this, I just finished bleeding my rear caliper and wouldn't you know it, I perceive "better" feel and quicker actuation. All seat of the pants so YMMV but it only takes a couple minutes unless your daughter doesn't understand what "hold the pedal down until I say so" means... :-\
Bleeding the brakes has been on my list. They feel a little spongy, always a sign that it needs bleeding.
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Definitely worth the few minutes it takes and you might reap dividends.
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Anyone know where a person can get Mobil 1 15w-50 (5qt jugs) now that Walmart doesn't stock it anymore?
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As for oil, you're gonna find as many opinions about this as there are gasholes, and I've used the "bad" Mobil 1 (yep, the energy conserving label one) in many previous wet clutch bikes without even a hint of clutch issues, the last bike turning 20k+ on the odo when I sold it. It's still on it's original clutch.
You're gonna find a lot of "the sky is falling" mentality on this and other forums like it. Goes with the territory. Just turn on your BS filter to "11" and you'll do fine with the plethora of good info on this site (especially).
I certainly wouldn't say the sky is falling but I have to say I expect way more then 20k+ on my clutch's.
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It's a rare bike that I'll keep more than 5 years or 20,000 miles, nothing like a shiny new bike. This C14 will be the exception, at least on the mileage as I'm knocking on 20k before the end of June and I won't have owned this bike a full year yet.
I think the hullabulloo on additives ruining clutches is just that...nonsense. Just like the idea that running synthetics (or the hydrocrack) in a new engine won't let it break in...more myth. But hey, to each their own and I've even used Slick50 and Duralube in bikes with no perceived ill effect and a perceived (if only in my mind) small benefit with Duralube. I remember the days when everyone put BG's EPC in their dino motor oil. Can't say it did or didn't help. Peace of mind?
I don't feel the need to add additives at all now thanks to all the great choices in lubricants out there. I'm using T6 right now largely because it's about the best I can get out in here in the "boonies" and I haven't cratered a motor yet on it. Clutches stay nice and grabby and I test it's hold on a regular basis. :o
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1) That being said, are there any potential Warrantee issues in using a Pure One filter as opposed to Kaw brand? I've seen the PL14612 listed as being correct for the C14.
2) I noticed several references to using Rotella 15/40, and then a warning against using it due to additives? I may just go with what i've been using in all my bikes for several years Mobil I (not MC specific) 15/50.
3) This is my first bike with ABS. Is it normal to experience the foot pedal dive under casual braking (such as a stop sign or traffic light) when the bike is nearing complete stop? There is also a bit of pulsing on the front brake lever at that point? This does NOT happen under firm or hard brake application.
1) Purolator Pure One #Purolator Pure One #PL14610 is the one I use. Slightly more filter area than the 4612. Very good filter.
2) Shell Rotella T 15w 40 is an excellent dino oil for our bikes. Excellent track record in motorcycle use across all types of bikes for many years. You will have no issues. The Shell T6 5w 40 synthetic is used by many. I have used and would recommend either.
3) What the others have said about the rear brakes.
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1) 42
2) green
3) ?
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(http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o87/BooneDawg1/Photo2.jpg)
(http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o87/BooneDawg1/Photo3.jpg)
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there some weeds showing between the cracks.
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I can see the yard being a lot more neglected in the coming months with this new BEAST in the stable!!!!
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I can see the yard being a lot more neglected in the coming months with this new BEAST in the stable!!!!
(http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/bigthumb.gif)