Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => Accessories and modifications - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: Big Red on September 02, 2021, 04:32:29 PM
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See this post for just parts used in this adventure: http://zggtr.org/index.php?topic=25180.msg314649#msg314649
I did some digging and some research. I got LED headlights that work in the OEM housings and still allow the OEM headlight boots to fit. I installed all the lighting in the beginning of March and I've been riding around with them all summer. I've had no issues with brightness or heat. The LED turn signals are BRIGHT. Super bright. So much so that the picture with the original still in the bike looks unlit. The LED headlights are a fair bit brighter and a lot whiter. Where the LED chips are mounted works perfectly with the OEM housing an the light throw is correct. I have not had any issues with them being too bright for oncoming traffic.
Here's a pic with the old headlight and LIT hazard/turn on the left and LEDs on the right.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51010596967_9a9a130eb8_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kHCDia)
With the city lights installed and hazards lit:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51023976633_c65901b30d_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kJPdB4)
City lights: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0186P1MUW/
Headlights: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TQLK6SH/
Turn Signals: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08DHMNDF2/
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Nice! I really like the idea of having brighter signals. I'm just about to start looking for a brighter tail light. I had a blaster-x on my last bike... it was BRIGHT when you hit the brakes, and it also flashed 4or 5 times in the first 1/4 second you hit the brakes to really draw attention to it. Hopefully I can find something similiar for the Concours as the tail light doesn't look all that bright to me.
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I installed a small tail light below the original and added one of these.
It make's the new light do a series of flashes and then remain on.
(One could also be added to the stock tail light)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/313622165660
Ride safe, Ted
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I installed a small tail light below the original and added one of these.
It make's the new light do a series of flashes and then remain on.
(One could also be added to the stock tail light)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/313622165660
Ride safe, Ted
Ted - Is the original tail-light LED? I haven't even looked at it yet. Just wondering as that strobe controller is, I think, just for LED lights?
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I'm just about to start looking for a brighter tail light. I had a blaster-x on my last bike... it was BRIGHT when you hit the brakes, and it also flashed 4or 5 times in the first 1/4 second you hit the brakes to really draw attention to it. Hopefully I can find something similiar for the Concours as the tail light doesn't look all that bright to me.
https://zggtr.org/index.php?topic=2505.0
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I dont think Admore is doing lights anymore. I went with a Bright2Wheels direct replacement and ive been very happy with it. I think they even have one with a flash module.
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Ted - Is the original tail-light LED? I haven't even looked at it yet. Just wondering as that strobe controller is, I think, just for LED lights?
The original is LED. And the Bright2Wheels replacement works very well. I've been super happy with it. https://www.bright2wheels.com/products/led-tail-light-kawasaki-concours-14-2008-2010
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The original is LED. And the Bright2Wheels replacement works very well. I've been super happy with it. https://www.bright2wheels.com/products/led-tail-light-kawasaki-concours-14-2008-2010
BR - I found that light but couldn't really tell if it had the two things I wanted... 1) Brighter, and 2) Flashing. I don't see anything mentioning the flash on the product description. Maybe I'll email them.
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I dont think Admore is doing lights anymore. I went with a Bright2Wheels direct replacement and ive been very happy with it. I think they even have one with a flash module.
Sure they are:
https://admorelighting.com/product/admore-smt-light-bar-small/?v=707f3a40153b
All the same features as what I had on my model, amber animated turn, momentary multiflash, license bracket. They aren't cheap, but they are high quality.
The Bright2Wheels looks nice as a replacement of existing light, but I like the addition of another plus separation for a larger footprint.
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I just ordered a LED light strip. Im going to try mounting it to the edge of the luggage rack. I’ll post the results.
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That should work.
I replaced my License Plate Light with this LED Taillight.
& Discarded the License plate mount that came with it.
Instead of the stock license plate light, I use the running light to illuminate the license plate, and I wired the brake and amber turn signals together.
I also added the blinker I listed above.
When I apply the brake, it blink's amber and red,,, 3 fast, 3 slow, and then stay's on.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/351177747091?hash=item51c3d32a93:g:NtIAAOSwEK9UIOUX
Ride safe, Ted
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I added Whelen LIN3 red lights for the brake/turn lights. The stock unit is now a tail light only.
(https://i.ibb.co/7kzyCZR/4-BAC7-C7-C-BFC9-4-E74-9-DF0-601-FA7700731.jpg)
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Light bar on the luggage rack. Click the bottom one for the vid.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51467773109_c9ef3c068e_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mq2MQr)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/31337/51467773299_c1de9e15a5_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mq2MTH)
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Big Red - Nicely done! I really like the LED strip. Do you have it set up as just a brake light (meaning it ONLY illuminates when brakes are applied), only a tail light (always on), or something else?
I'm thinking I want something that is just for brakes... ideally it would be BIG, BRIGHT, and FLASHING! Maybe even some sirens? LOL (kind of). I have to turn left off of a main road on my way home from work. It's not uncommon that I have to wait for 10-20 seconds at a complete stand-still waiting to make my turn... when I'm stopped there I feel like a sitting duck with traffic whipping past me at 40mph. When I'm in my truck they go W-A-Y over to the side and ride in the shoulder to pass me. On my bike, they feel like they have the extra space so they have no issue driving just a few feet to my right. And yes, I've tried going another route... I can go past that turn and make one of two additional left turns... and I've done that if it looks like I might be stopped for a while... but sometimes the next two left's are just as bad and I have to make the turn at some point to get home.
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It is set up as running and brake light. It has turn signals, and can be wired as just a stop light, like a 3rd brake light in a car. If you click the last pic, it’ll take you to a video of it. I’ll try to remember to do another tonight.
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I’ve also got those reflective thingies on my saddle bags. I found that helped with some space issues. At some point it becomes counter productive because people steer the direction they’re looking.
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Click the bottom one to see the video.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51470697793_f8cb7ae40e_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mqhMf2)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/31337/51470448956_7f54c8b29f_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mqgvgJ)
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Thanks, Big Red! The video helps alot. Can you post a link to the lights trip you used? I may copy you. ;)
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https://amazon.com/gp/product/B01GJGCR9U/
I drilled a 3/16 hole into the back of the luggage rack to run the wire under it. Then I ran the wire between the tail light and the rack support. Can't even see it when I know it's there.
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Looks good.
I are impressed!
Ride safe, Ted
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Looks good.
I are impressed!
I also think it looks good. Great price. But I would have mounted it on the bottom of the license plate holder to create more size of the bike/lighting.
Hey, he can always add a second one :)
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51470697793_f8cb7ae40e_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mqhMf2)
So a few chips in the strip died. I found this seller on Amazon, Like $8 for two strips. https://amazon.com/dp/B07W89RZZR
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On your bike the lower rear fender and reflector were removed?
Ride safe, Ted
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On your bike the lower rear fender and reflector were removed?
Ride safe, Ted
Mine looks the same. I didn't like the look of it hanging down as far as it did and I don't ride in the rain often, so it doesn't make too much of a mess.
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Headlights: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TQLK6SH/
So, these actually have a tiny fan in it to cool it? But it only circulates the air inside the headlight housing itself. Seems strange, but apparently works as you are saying you have had no issues. Still running strong?
I have put LEH headlights in 2 of my cars (both 2006 model year vehicles) and I went with fanless as I didn't want the fan going out and then the bulb dying an early life, but I know the Concours has space limitations if we want to use the original connector covers.
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I have fanless LED headlight bulbs in my C14. (Plenty of older threads). There is plenty of room for an effective passive heatsink. http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=22202.0 "Also, I could test the heatsinks. They do get warm, but even after being on a hour riding, then sitting still for 5 minutes, I can place my hand on them with no discomfort." [Unfortunately most photos on old threads are lost, and we can't edit them to add the photos back]
Bulbs that have fans might be able to shed heat better, but my experience with small (and often cheap) fans is not good. And the C14 is not weather-proof nor dust-proof in that area. Small fans there WILL fail, especially those designed to go into far more weather-proof cars. They also pull additional power.
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I remember seeing your thread years ago and I followed along with most of it but didn't feel inclined to make the change since it seemed like the LED technology was still changing for the better. Obviously, we are now almost 5 years past your initial post in that thread and I am again thinking of making the change. When I commute to work, it's always in the dark in the morning (but has been only a handful of times since Covid).
Doing a quick Amazon search, I found these which are fanless and non-adjustable angles.
Only $40 ($20 for one), but look like the ones Big Red posted:
https://www.amazon.com/AUXITO-Headlight-Motorcycle-Light-6000K/dp/B092SHMWQZ/ref=sr_1_8?crid=3OFW54JP8UBIJ&keywords=h4+led+bulb&qid=1643761646&sprefix=h4+led+bulb%2Caps%2C136&sr=8-8
I also found these which are a funky design, but they claim better heat dissipation because of it for $37 and my Chrome browser says I can get a $10 off coupon at checkout:
https://www.amazon.com/OXILAM-Headlight-Motorcycle-Conversion-Replacement/dp/B09HS7499B/ref=sr_1_16?crid=3OFW54JP8UBIJ&keywords=h4+led+bulb&qid=1643761646&sprefix=h4+led+bulb%2Caps%2C136&sr=8-16
And then I found a BeamTech bulb (I put BeamTech's in both of the other cars, but they have giant heat syncs behind the bulb):
https://www.amazon.com/BEAMTECH-H1-Headlight-Extremely-Conversion/dp/B07L5KW26Y/ref=sr_1_44?crid=3OFW54JP8UBIJ&keywords=h4+led+bulb&qid=1643761646&sprefix=h4+led+bulb%2Caps%2C136&sr=8-44
Thoughts on any of these options?
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I remember seeing your thread years ago and I followed along with most of it but didn't feel inclined to make the change since it seemed like the LED technology was still changing for the better. Obviously, we are now almost 5 years past your initial post in that thread and I am again thinking of making the change. When I commute to work, it's always in the dark in the morning (but has been only a handful of times since Covid).
Yeah, I expect the technology has probably continued to improve since the model I picked. At least, one would hope. I feel for you, trying to figure out what to buy is horrible because you can't believe or trust most "specifications" which lie about everything, and most users' reviews being generally useless. And when a reasonable model does come out, they often disappear before any long-term data is known.
I can say that the bulbs I chose were, in fact, dimmer than the HID I had before. But the HID had to be replaced because the bulb hi/low movement was sticking and the bulbs were scorching the reflector. At least what I found has a great pattern and is a little brighter than the conventional bulbs.
Doing a quick Amazon search, I found these which are fanless and non-adjustable angles.
Yikes. No heat sink OUTSIDE the headlamp assembly. That is a big red flag. And having no adjustability is a negative (to me, anyway). Also only claim 30K hours life, when 50K is the standard. I like that there are no external power boxes (which is surprising) but that means the regulator is ALSO at/in the bulb, adding more heat!
I also found these which are a funky design, but they claim better heat dissipation because of it
But still no heat sink outside the assembly.
And then I found a BeamTech bulb
Ditto
LED's are very sensitive to overheating. Too much heat will make them dimmer faster and reduce their life. I can't believe they can dump enough heat INSIDE the headlight enclosure to be safe. Perhaps the technology has changed and my assumptions are no longer valid, though?
But from what I still think is true, I would look for a fanless design with a reasonable external heatsink, as well as adjustable tilt (if possible).
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Yikes. No heat sink OUTSIDE the headlamp assembly. That is a big red flag. And having no adjustability is a negative (to me, anyway). Also only claim 30K hours life, when 50K is the standard. I like that there are no external power boxes (which is surprising) but that means the regulator is ALSO at/in the bulb, adding more heat!
But still no heat sink outside the assembly.
For these BeamTech bulbs, I did see this in the Q&A section: The H4 mounting flange comes off, so the bulb can fit through the rubber boot. It is a simple twist and pull off design, and easily goes back on.
https://www.amazon.com/BEAMTECH-Headlight-Fanless-Extremely-Conversion/dp/B071778DGG/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=h4+led+fanless+headlight+bulb&qid=1643767666&sprefix=h4+led+fanless%2Caps%2C133&sr=8-15
Or these look good as well:
https://www.amazon.com/AUXITO-Headlight-9000Lumens-Extremely-Conversion/dp/B07DGTTTKN/ref=sxin_15_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?cv_ct_cx=h4+led+fanless+headlight+bulb&keywords=h4+led+fanless+headlight+bulb&pd_rd_i=B07DGTTTKN&pd_rd_r=3e96ebbf-93f0-49a7-8455-5343a1a46edc&pd_rd_w=beLpj&pd_rd_wg=jMtEK&pf_rd_p=4ad71b32-b810-4124-8735-d02a39478d0c&pf_rd_r=W654PDCBZMYDSAW65ZGR&qid=1643774526&sprefix=h4+led+fanless%2Caps%2C133&sr=1-3-a73d1c8c-2fd2-4f19-aa41-2df022bcb241-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzNjA2Nk9aMTVUVlMyJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwOTQ1MzQxMUVGTVNSUVZKNjBORCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMTE1OTUwVzJVNVJLOVUwOEVXJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3Bfc2VhcmNoX3RoZW1hdGljJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
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So, these actually have a tiny fan in it to cool it? But it only circulates the air inside the headlight housing itself. Seems strange, but apparently works as you are saying you have had no issues. Still running strong?
I have put LEH headlights in 2 of my cars (both 2006 model year vehicles) and I went with fanless as I didn't want the fan going out and then the bulb dying an early life, but I know the Concours has space limitations if we want to use the original connector covers.
I put the LEDs in, all the way around, March 7th, 2021. I ride pretty much every day, as I ride 25 minutes each way from work and some long hauls on the weekend. Like 3 hours at a time. I checked my mileage since installed, and I've got 10k miles on these bulbs.
I have been SUPER impressed with the longevity of the Auxito H4 bulb with the tiny internal fan. I rode all summer in the Phoenix valley, and none of the LEDs had issues. It was below freezing with the windchill a couple of weekends ago when the ol'lady and I went up to Show Low. Still, the lights work great.
And right now a pair is only $40. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TQLK6SH/
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LED's are very sensitive to overheating. Too much heat will make them dimmer faster and reduce their life. I can't believe they can dump enough heat INSIDE the headlight enclosure to be safe. Perhaps the technology has changed and my assumptions are no longer valid, though?
Your assumptions are correct, and I cannot speak to the construction of the bulbs I've chosen. What I can say as someone who has built a lot of custom LED stuff, the problem is uneven heating. If the whole backside of LED has good contact with it's heat sink, it heats and cools evenly, greatly increasing its lifespan. It's like bending a coat hanger until it breaks, just on a much smaller scale. The little bond wires in the LED chip will fatigue, break, and cause arcing, which gives the tell-tale dark spot of a dead LED.
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With the city lights installed and hazards lit:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51023976633_c65901b30d_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kJPdB4)
City lights: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0186P1MUW/
Just curious, why didn't you use amber city lights, to give a different color from the front?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0186P1MWU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AFCCAHNOW2XSP&psc=1
I am going to replace my current amber non-LED with those since I like the look with the different color.
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Just curious, why didn't you use amber city lights, to give a different color from the front?
I am going to replace my current amber non-LED with those since I like the look with the different color.
That is my current and previous recommendation (for many years now). There isn't any point to having city lights at all, if they are the same color as the headlights. They are too close and just blend in. The only other legal color is amber (yellow).... so it only makes sense to make them amber, and as bright as possible.
And since the C14 has no front parking/marker lights, I reversed the function of the front turn singnals so they are on all the time (with bright amber LED). The turn signal operation flashes them off instead of on. Again, I see people interested in the concept but then use "switchback" ones that remain white instead of amber but blink amber. I think that is a waste of another opportunity to expand the front and side visibility in the best way possible- more amber!!!
Or is that... more cowbell??
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I switched my city lights to amber.
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I just ordered the Amber city lights from that link and the LED headlights from the last link I posted. I will post images after install and attempt to use the same camera settings on the camera for the best comparison of light quantity and spread.
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Just curious, why didn't you use amber city lights, to give a different color from the front?
I like the all white lighting in the front. If I wasn't concerned about heat buildup in the front turn signal housings, I'd install switchbacks there, and they'd all be white. I personally turn my engine off and cycle the ignition while I'm sitting at a few really long lights in Central Phoenix. Sitting with an engine notorious for putting off a lot of heat frankly sucks. Having bright, white city lights in this case, works.
Amber is pretty cool, too. I love mods of all sorts, even just color changes. It frankly never occurred to me to do it. But again, I prefer all white front lighting.
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On your bike the lower rear fender and reflector were removed?
Ride safe, Ted
Ted,
Sorry, not sure how I missed this one. Yeah. I did a tail tidy. I don't like the look of big fenders on the back of a sporty bike. I would've pulled the reflective tape off the saddle bags, but I like that I can take the bag off and use it as a sorta traffic cone if I need to pull over.
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If I wasn't concerned about heat buildup in the front turn signal housings, I'd install [LED] there
I have not had problems with heat in the turn signal housings. Probably because the wattage is much lower. Although I have had reliability problems with some of those type of LED bulbs. I have only used one model/brand, and the front array inevitably starts to flicker after a few years in certain conditions. I think it is just a design flaw that vibration causes the tiny front circuit board to become defective. All the rest of the LED elements, wrapped around the barrel, continue to work fine. Interestingly it happens when it is really cold outside (not hot). Anyway, since it is only a tiny number of the total number of LED's on the bulb, it isn't that noticeable. I swapped in two new bulbs (same model, sent to me under warranty claim) after a few years and after a few years, the second set did the same thing. Meh, whatever. :)
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I have not had problems with heat in the turn signal housings.
I'm glad to hear you haven't had issues. I may re-consider doing switchbacks. I guess if heat does build up and gives me a problem, I can just get new housings. They're not terribly expensive.
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Got the new LED's installed.
I forgot how easy the city lights are.
I attached the images, so they don't get lost in the ether later if the hosting sights change their rules like PhotoBucket did.
1. City lights, with the LED on the left side of the image.
I didn't want to wait for it to get dark to install the headlights, so I used my camera to keep the settings the same, for the best comparison.
2. Standard halogen bulbs on low.
3. LED bulbs on low before adjusting the height down some.
4. LED bulbs on low after adjusting them down.
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And 2 more quick images.
1. LED's on low again, after adjustment (it was darker outside, so I wanted to re-take this for closer comparison to the high beams.
2. LED's on high.
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Those look pretty good, Scott. I'm happy to see that I'm not the only one who smashes tons of bugs.
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Those look pretty good, Scott. I'm happy to see that I'm not the only one who smashes tons of bugs.
Well, I have not been riding much since Covid (most of my riding is commuting, but that hasn't been happening as I have only gone IN to work 18x), but I also don't wash the bike often!
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I rode in to work today in the dark. I can say, I approved of the LED headlights. They give a better light than the standard bulbs, partially because the color temperature is higher, but it has a nice light pattern to it as well.
I didn't grab a picture of the heat sync and the rubber boots, but the boots do touch the heat syncs. It would be interesting to get a measurement of the heat that the sync puts off. I felt them after riding for an hour a few days ago once I got home and they were hot to the touch for sure (I just did a quick touch, not prolonged as that would cause a slight burn).
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I would imagine you could get new boots if those get iffy. Depending on what compound they're actually made of, you might never have a problem.
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I am fairly sure my heatsinks touch the boots and have for several years- no problem. The heatsinks get hot, but not hot enough to melt rubber/silicone/plastic.
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Just did front switchbacks.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/31337/51896544733_f4594d2ffa_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2n4VmGD)FullSizeRender (https://flic.kr/p/2n4VmGD) by bigangryscot (https://www.flickr.com/photos/bigangryscot/), on Flickr
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Just did front switchbacks.
So much better than stock, even if not full-time yellow. But you should always share sources/models/etc...
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I was looking at the image wondering why you would post a picture of a dark Concours after doing the switchback install.
I then realized it was probably a video... ;D
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I was looking at the image wondering why you would post a picture of a dark Concours after doing the switchback install.
I then realized it was probably a video... ;D
LOL- Same here!
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So much better than stock, even if not full-time yellow. But you should always share sources/models/etc...
The bulbs: https://amazon.com/gp/product/B09C234Y12
The sockets which required removal of some of the ears to match the OEM ones: https://amazon.com/gp/product/B096RPQ4MP
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The bulbs: https://amazon.com/gp/product/B09C234Y12
The sockets which required removal of some of the ears to match the OEM ones: https://amazon.com/gp/product/B096RPQ4MP
It is nice they included the resistors, which you had to use if you are using the stock flasher. In my case, I used a replacement electronic flasher unit (just popped right into the block), so that covered all the lights and didn't have to use resistors- which is simpler, faster, cleaner, more reliable, uses no extra power, creates no waste-heat, and works with both LED and incandescent bulbs (or even a mix).
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The resistors didn’t create enough load to work for me. Right now it has hyperflash. It may be my imagination, but it doesn’t seem as fast as “normal” hyperflash.
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The resistors didn’t create enough load to work for me. Right now it has hyperflash. It may be my imagination, but it doesn’t seem as fast as “normal” hyperflash.
Are you kidding? Those are 50 Watt resistors included! One for each bulb should be more than enough load. Really, do yourself a favor and remove the resistors and replace the flasher.
https://www.motosport.com/dmp-led-flasher-unit?variant[DMP000D]=DMP000D-X001-Y001
https://www.amazon.com/2-Pin-Electronic-Flasher-Motorcycle-Signal/dp/B073J82PNF
https://www.cyclegear.com/parts/speedmetal-led-turn-signal-relay
https://www.customled.com/products/elfr-1-electronic-led-flasher-relay
I use the DMP; the "KAFEEK" on Amazon looks to be the same and someone confirms in reviews it is plug-and-play on the Concours.
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I tested the resistors before permanently installing them. When I saw they didnt work, I removed them right away.
When we did the LED turns on my buddy’s ZX14R, it had hyperflash with the same bulbs that didn’t for me. We put the Custom LED flasher in his and it worked great. If i get a new one, it’ll be theirs.
I’ve had the switchbacks for a few days now, including riding in the dark. They’re awesome.
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I tested the resistors before permanently installing them. When I saw they didnt work, I removed them right away. When we did the LED turns on my buddy’s ZX14R, it had hyperflash with the same bulbs that didn’t for me. We put the Custom LED flasher in his and it worked great. If i get a new one, it’ll be theirs.
The ZX14 and C14 should behave exactly the same if the config and bulbs are actually the same. So I would assume that either the resistors they provided were defective or under-speced, or maybe you installed them incorrectly- perhaps on the full-time-power wires instead of the turn wires?
If one replaces only the front lamps with LED bulbs, there might be enough load in the rear incandescent bulbs to still flash correctly- but perhaps faster than normal (since it was designed to see 42W/84W of load (turn/hazard)). There is no chance of avoiding "hyperflash" with LED bulbs in all 4 corners without the use of load resistors or a replacement flasher unit.
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The ZX14 and C14 should behave exactly the same if the config and bulbs are actually the same. So I would assume that either the resistors they provided were defective or under-speced, or maybe you installed them incorrectly- perhaps on the full-time-power wires instead of the turn wires?
If one replaces only the front lamps with LED bulbs, there might be enough load in the rear incandescent bulbs to still flash correctly- but perhaps faster than normal (since it was designed to see 42W/84W of load (turn/hazard)). There is no chance of avoiding "hyperflash" with LED bulbs in all 4 corners without the use of load resistors or a replacement flasher unit.
The ZX14 and the C14 SHOULD have behaved the same. They did not. We were using turn signals that had built in resistors. Everything was from the same manufacturer, the ZX just didn't like it.
The Auxito LED turn signals that I linked to at the beginning are the ones with the built in resistors. They did not hyperflash on my C14 or anyone else that I know who got them. The ZX is the only one.
When I added in the new sockets and bulbs, the turn signal was the only thing even hooked up when I had the ballast resistor in-line. I hadn't even connected the key on power yet. It's probably due to the rear bulbs still being LED. It wasn't unexpected, that's why I tried it out before finishing the install.
I could ohm out the resistors that the kit came with, or do the same with my flasher circuit, but neither is needed. This isn't about somewhat expected hyperflashing. I don't know that I'm even going to correct it.
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The Auxito LED turn signals that I linked to at the beginning are the ones with the built in resistors. They did not hyperflash on my C14 or anyone else that I know who got them.
Sorry, I wasn't following what you were saying. I didn't realize you were talking about two different bulbs. Speaking of which:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08DHMNDF2/
I didn't even know there WERE LED bulbs with built-in resistors! Very convenient, but LED's hate heat. I am surprised this type of bulb would last.
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I didn't even know there WERE LED bulbs with built-in resistors! Very convenient, but LED's hate heat. I am surprised this type of bulb would last.
I ran those for a full year in the Phoenix, AZ valley. Rode it all summer. There is no sign of degradation in the ones I pulled out. I was skeptical too, but the proof is 12 months desert riding.
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There are 2 types of flasher relay.
1- Old school that give hyperflash if the bulb resistance is too high. They do this because the flash speed is set by a built in capacitor and by the resistance of two bulbs (front & rear) in parallel.
2- New ones that flash at a fixed speed regardless of bulb resistance.
Rather than fit a resistor that uses just as much power as the old bulb used, why not just upgrade the flasher unit to the new style?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/121420785353 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/121420785353)
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Boomer, I didn't install the resistors anyway. I may go with the upgraded flasher eventually. I kinda like the faster flash, though. We'll see. Having ridden around with them flashing a little faster, I find that during the day I'm a lot less likely to forget to cancel my signal. The dash indicator seems to catch my eye better.
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Hi Red, if you get one of the adjustable flash rate relays, you can choose your own flash rate.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/163922558724 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/163922558724)
However, if you like your current flash speed, leave it as it is. :)
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BTW, this morning, riding in to work in the dark, I got to see how the high beams work. It lit up the whole inside of the car just as well as the outside! Idiot was not paying attention to the road and was riding the line and not allowing me to get past due to the big rig next to him (lane sharing is legal in Ca when done safely). The driver in the big rig moved for me, the idiot in the car ignored me.
I will say, these lit up the car better than the stock or even upgraded halogens did.
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get one of the adjustable flash rate relays, you can choose your own flash rate.
Yet something else I didn't know existed until now
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I recently installed the front Switchback Lighting on my 2014.
Wow is an understatement!
The wiring/light installation was pretty straight forward (with a little help from John/gixer/hp)
But, the fairing was a PITA as I haven't been under the plastic in a while.
I have the rear Switchback Lighting and it should be EZ because of my learning on the front.
But I've never been under the plastic in the rear.
Can someone offer info or a video on how to get the plastic off/on?
Ride safe, Ted
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I recently installed the front Switchback Lighting on my 2014.
Wow is an understatement!
The wiring/light installation was pretty straight forward (with a little help from John/gixer/hp)
But, the fairing was a PITA as I haven't been under the plastic in a while.
I have the rear Switchback Lighting and it should be EZ because of my learning on the front.
But I've never been under the plastic in the rear.
Can someone offer info or a video on how to get the plastic off/on?
Ride safe, Ted
Is there a good tutorial site for the switchback install on the Concours? It would be great if somebody would take the time to put links to products, instructions and such together. I know it's asking a lot, but it seems like a great improvement for these, and any bike really.
More light = better visibility in all conditions.
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Is there a good tutorial site for the switchback install on the Concours? It would be great if somebody would take the time to put links to products, instructions and such together. I know it's asking a lot, but it seems like a great improvement for these, and any bike really.
More light = better visibility in all conditions.
I hesitate to do it, as there’s a good plug and play product out there made by Gixer.
I don’t really want to step on his toes by making it that easy.
With that being said, I left the “other” forum because they don’t feel the same way about freedom of information exchange. Let me ponder this for a bit. I have to open my fairing back up anyway, I may do a write-up with it.
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I hesitate to do it, as there’s a good plug and play product out there made by Gixer.
I don’t really want to step on his toes by making it that easy.
With that being said, I left the “other” forum because they don’t feel the same way about freedom of information exchange. Let me ponder this for a bit. I have to open my fairing back up anyway, I may do a write-up with it.
Is the Gixer product the one that he makes that is "plug and play"? If so, I remember looking at them at the time. I don't remember the cost, but it wasn't cheap.
I am not on the other forum much. I don't understand the whole thing of needing to renew your membership each year and making a payment of $0 is just strange.
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From what I understand, Gixer's kit is plug and play, and it is not cheap.
The other forum wants $37 a year. I understand that an organized club has costs, but I'm not interested in all that nonsense. I offered to contribute a lower rate to maintain forum access, but not only was that shot down but the "forum glitch" that allowed me access past 6 months as a trial, was "fixed". I personally considered it a shadow ban for speaking up, and I fervently oppose pay walls. Information should be free to share.
I will do a write up, but it is going to have to wait until the weekend. I'm going to do it in a way that only requires a wire stripper/crimper, a pair of pliers, a lighter or hair dryer/heat gun, and a knife.
If anyone is interested in getting the parts and following along...
T-taps: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07MLPBPW5/ OR Posi-Taps https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00H242NNY/
Sockets: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B096RPQ4MP
Heat shrink butt connectors with adhesive lining: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B097MVQLSL/
18 gauge hookup wire: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0746HMTPP/
Parts are $40 plus tax, and the bulbs I used for the front https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B09C234Y12/ are $27.
You could do front and back for about $100. The backs are easy as long as you don't want brake light functionality with the turn signals. Just running lights and turns. Backs, which I haven't done yet, but just ordered to do this weekend: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/product/B08H4MXQMZ/
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The backs are easy as long as you don't want brake light functionality with the turn signals.
Yeah, that would be weird. It would have to be dim red all the time, then switch to blinking yellow only for turning, and then I guess alternate between bright red and yellow for braking and turning at the same time? Or perhaps just ignore brake when turning (that seems more rational)? I kinda doubt a bulb like that exists. Although I have been surprised more than once lately.
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Maxtog, a bulb like that does exist. I have them on one of my C-10's.
But someone prior to me installed them, so I don't know where they came from or how their wired.
The problem with the signal lights being brake lights too is; the 2 sides have to be connected together to be brake lights.
So, to use them as signals, you have to install diodes {or other} to separate the power.
(ie; prevent a left (or right) signal from powering the opposite side when you use the turn signals)
I tried to wire one of my C-10's to do that. I was unsuccessful.
I'll be waiting to see how Big Red does his wiring. Saaaaalute!
NOTE: I've cut/spliced enough wires in my life, so I'm more into the Switchback Lighting from Gixer.
ie; Unplug 1 connection and plug his harness into it.
Very EZ to do. He did a very good job on the design.
Yea, it's kinda expensive, but it's excellent harness and bulbs.
Quality package.
My problem with the Switchback install was getting the fairing plastic off and back on. :o
Compared to my C-10's, the C-14 is a PITA.
Ride safe, Ted
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Maxtog, a bulb like that does exist. I have them on one of my C-10's.
But someone prior to me installed them, so I don't know where they came from or how their wired.
The problem with the signal lights being brake lights too is; the 2 sides have to be connected together to be brake lights.
So, to use them as signals, you have to install diodes {or other} to separate the power.
(ie; prevent a left (or right) signal from powering the opposite side when you use the turn signals)
I tried to wire one of my C-10's to do that. I was unsuccessful.
I'll be waiting to see how Big Red does his wiring. Saaaaalute!
That's exactly why I said no to that. I'm changing out the rear signals to "dim" red running lights and "bright" red for the turns. This is a common setup for most cars nowadays, and I think it'll look good. We'll find out this weekend as long as everything shows up.
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Not pretty, and I could've done the fronts a little neater. I have canyon cages, though. And I've not cut the panels to make getting them on and off easier. Next time I go to get in there, I will.
So here's the OEM and new plug:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51935037705_4e38bc2f5c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2n8jDjz)
After cutting off the side tabs, some of the latching side, and half of the visible tab. This was done to make it close to the OEM tab positions.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51935037635_9205c101a6_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2n8jDin)
If you pull these four rivets and two screws in the front wheel well, as well as the top 3 panel screws on the side, you can get your hand in there to change the bulb without pulling cages and panels:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51934494003_7896666aca_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2n8gRGp)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51933443012_5e342425fd_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2n8btgS)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51934493948_02304d195f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2n8gRFs)
Pull your sockets and wire them like this:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51934829293_df75833560_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2n8izng)
Buttoned up with fabric loom tape:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51934829298_1c314d77d5_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2n8iznm)
I didn't bother cleaning up the fronts yet, due to the aforementioned cage issue. But I ran the red wire to the city lights and used my t-tap on the power feed up there. The power is the one with the stripe on it, at least on my 2010. Front installed with yellow->red running to the city light feed:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51934743609_85e14c2501_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2n8i8TX)
Reassemble and you're done with the fronts. Lots of other write-ups for those. Now to the rears which are a bit more detailed.
Pull the cover under the luggage tray, two bolts:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51934492843_f343ef87c3_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2n8gRmp)
Remove the luggage tray, four bolts:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51934839383_c27e58a2ff_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2n8iCne)
Remove brake light bracket, one bolt on each side. Be mindful that these also hold the reflector bracket:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51933443112_f0a6a56597_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2n8btiA)
Remove top side-panel bolts. Total of four, two each side:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51934757271_0c5dc2906e_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2n8icXv)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51934743849_0f6cc96bec_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2n8i8Y6)
Remove bottom side screw rivets. These are hot garbage. They "unscrew" then pull out like a push rivet. I highly recommend replacing these with standard push rivets. I forgot about these and had already replaced the ones on the right side. I FOUGHT with the left. There are three on each side, totaling six.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51934847088_6872af3a1f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2n8iEE5)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51935077904_318d5a41bf_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2n8jRgE)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51934757261_a151301c15_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2n8icXk)
The last one above isn't required to remove the side panel, just the turn panel. Once you have these removed, the side covers will pop off. There is a post and socket at the front of the panel, that's the only other thing holding it on.
Stand behind the bike, grasp both turn signals and pull straight back. This panel will come off of two posts and sockets. Be mindful that the wires are still connected.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51933442857_c404721214_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2n8btec)
Once off, turn the sockets and remove them. Set the rear panel aside. You don't have to remove the tool box and slide the ecu out of the way, but it does make it a little easier.
Wire up your rears like the pic above. Same as the fronts. For the rear, I tapped into the running light for the tail light. I alread had taps on it for my lightbar that died. On my bike this feed was red. My right turn signal connector was natural colored, the left was green colored.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51934829263_b9e986cdf4_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2n8izmK)
All you have to do is put it back together. This is what the socket looks like from the inside. You can more easily see the modified tabs.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51933442647_33cfe7601b_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2n8btaz)
Here's all the lights on in running mode:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51934735036_0ddbeb6eee_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2n8i6m9)
And click for a video with the turn signal flashing:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/31337/51935110759_72c7361c6c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2n8k238)
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Since the rears weren't too bad, I may try to throw some diodes in there to see if I can get them to work on brake lights, too.
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Those look great and thanks for the write up with images!
We have a major change coming and may be moving and if we do, I may sell the Concours and then buy another once we are settled in. I don't think it makes sense to have my 2009 with 45k miles on it shipped and I don't know that a road trip to possibly ride cross country during summer is in my future. But, we will see. I will keep this post though, for future.
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Muchas thanky Big Red.
Well done!!
Ride safe, Ted
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I have a small 3 to 2 way trailer tail light adapter on the way. There will be an addition this weekend. I really like the added night visibility of the turn signals as running lights, and I will be adding braking to them. There will be an update sometime later this week/weekend.
EDIT: The trailer adapter didn’t work. Not sure if I got a bad one, or just incompatible. More work is needed. I’ll keep you all posted.
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From what I recall and I don't have a manual anymore, the C14 uses Canbus (not Cannabis) for electrical. Sometimes plugging in to that can issues. I take it that the connector plugs in but nothing works?
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From what I recall and I don't have a manual anymore, the C14 uses Canbus
Although I think you are right, I don't think it uses canbus for the lighting.
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From what I recall and I don't have a manual anymore, the C14 uses Canbus (not Cannabis) for electrical. Sometimes plugging in to that can issues. I take it that the connector plugs in but nothing works?
It wasn't a canbus issue. I think one (or more) of the diodes in the dongle were shorted. I ha partial functionality, but turns were feeding both rear lights instead of just one. I think I may have found another option. Time will tell.
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I think that if you hook 2 wires to the brake power wire (make a "Y"), add a diode to each of those new wires, and then attach 1 wire to each blinker circuit it might work.
ie;
Each blinker would receive power when one of the blinkers is selected.
But the blinker power could not cross feed/supply power to the opposite side because of the diode.
(and) Both blinker filaments would receive power when the brake is applied.
{thoughts???}
Ride safe, Ted
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Ted, that would work. The problem is that I also want the blinker to work while the brakes are applied. And that's more complicated than a simple diode setup. That's beyond my electronics abilities to make that work with individual components. I have another controller, powered, that should be here today. We'll see how that goes.
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I did it! The powered light controller worked!!! The only change I made to the wiring is the +12v for the controller is sourced from the running light feed. I did that so there would be no chance of parasitic draw.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08N68MNSL
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51961432716_25cc93cf38_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2naDVCY)
Click for brief video
(https://live.staticflickr.com/31337/51961718499_d22ac3cf8e.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2naFoAg)
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Congrats. The only thing you didn't show in the video was turn signal on, then brake at same time. Which was kinda the whole point, right? :)
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You are correct. I did not. Here it is.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/31337/51962048096_a0ea5e54e6_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2naH5yY)
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You are correct. I did not. Here it is.
Looks good!
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Thank you. I am extremely happy with the final result. I'm glad I kept at it. The last lighting module almost beat me. It was difficult to find all the right plugs and sockets. Manufacturers don’t want you to know who they use for basic connectors.
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To consolidate items in one post, here's a list of most everything you'd need. Checked for correctness 11/22/22. Links still valid as of that date.
No mod lights:
City lights: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0186P1MUW/
Headlights: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TQLK6SH/
Turn Signals: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08DHMNDF2/
To do switchback lighting:
Front Switchbacks white/amber: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09C234Y12
Turn signal sockets to accept 1157 bulbs: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B096RPQ4MP
Rear red 1157 bulbs: https://amazon.com/dp/product/B08H4MXQMZ/
OEM style Kawasaki connectors: https://amazon.com/dp/B07FCLGF3T
Trailer lighting controller: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08N68MNSL
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Figured it was about time for an update. I'm about halfway through my second Phoenix summer with the LED headlights and city lights. I am happy to report that they are still fully functional. I ride at least 40 miles a day. Commute 5 days a week, and one longish weekend ride. Switchbacks are also still working, but they were installed just prior to this summer. 4 months though, and they are also still going strong.