Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => Accessories and modifications - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: metzgerf16 on May 12, 2011, 02:33:38 AM
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I know this has been said many times already, but I recently removed the secondary flies and am very happy with the results. I also installed a BMC air filter and PC-V with map from Fuelmoto. The improvement in power under 6k rpm is amazing, and I have to agree with all before me who've said that this is the way the bike should have come from the factory. If anyone is on the fence about removing the secondary flies, I say go for it. You won't be disappointed. Btw, thank you to everyone who posted on the old forum about removing the flies. Your info and pictures were a great help.
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I have the same setup and agree 100% ;D
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My fuel mileage has suffered severely since doing this mod because I can't keep my right wrist in check.
Free horsepower (besides buying a PCV) and more usable torque make the C14 a totally different bike.
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Lol...I noticed that I burned through a tank pretty quickly yesterday, but I was playing around a lot to get acclimated to the new power curve. I also noticed that my factory tires really are shot already. Rolling on the throttle half way thru the turns with the extra torque stressed the rear tire more than normal and showcased just how crappy it is.
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Agreed but removing the 'flies really isn't a performance modification. It simply frees the 1400 cc engine that Kawasaki crippled with the secondary butterflies ('flies) and allows it to perform like it always should have, at least in my opinion.
Brian
My fuel mileage has suffered severely since doing this mod because I can't keep my right wrist in check.
Free horsepower (besides buying a PCV) and more usable torque make the C14 a totally different bike.
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is there a cache file somewhere of a "how to" on this??
one thing i meant to look up before the crash of 2011....
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Amen!
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Remember, if you remove the flies you can improve gas mileage only by installing a throttle resistance device to slow down how quickly the right grip can be twisted. Fly removal also has a major effect on the life of the rear tire. DO NOT remove the flies while still running on the stock tires. It will result in stained underwear while accelerating out of corners. Like Forrest Gump almost said, “**** happens”.
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I remember reading somewhere that this is not advisable if you have the traction control option. Is this true? Does it simply negate your traction control system, or does it cause problems with it?
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is there a cache file somewhere of a "how to" on this??
one thing i meant to look up before the crash of 2011....
So, I'll share.
Remove glove box, and related tupperware.
Remove tank-I propped it up so it helps to have as close to empty as possible.
Remove two cover plates and peek inside. Use either a new, quallity #2 philips or a JIS tip, long shank.
If you decide to tap on the screws to aid in removal use caution, you do not want to bend the shaft, the method I used is steady downward pressure, while twisting slightly and lightly tapped the driver. Others have had varrying degrees of success heating the tip up, which allows the locking agent to soften. Once all 8 screws have been removed and the bike is back in shape be prepared for fun in the saddle. Side note-the plates are alluminum so a retriever wont get them out :o
Easy as could be.
Chet
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Lol...I noticed that I burned through a tank pretty quickly yesterday, but I was playing around a lot to get acclimated to the new power curve. I also noticed that my factory tires really are shot already. Rolling on the throttle half way thru the turns with the extra torque stressed the rear tire more than normal and showcased just how crappy it is.
I also noticed yesterday that I was burning lots of fuel. Well, what I noticed actually was that after a 45 miles drive I went from half tank to reserve :o
I wonder if it had anything to do with doing 140 mph in the Autobahn... ::)
What really got into me was that earlier in the day I drove a K1300S and noticed that the gears are much shorter, so I wanted to compare the response of the 6th gear in that one with the 4th in the Kawasaki. After my scientific approach I can only confirm it: the response is very similar... ;D
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Is it mandatory to add a PC-V with this mod
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@joedeon In the old forum (RIP), Fred Harmon posted his results of removing the flies on a 2010 with traction control. If I remember correctly, he said traction control still worked just fine, but it felt a little more abrupt when it activated. If I had to guess, I'd say that's caused by having more available power in the lower RPM's. And when the traction control takes that power away briefly and then gives it back, I'm sure it's more noticeable than with the flies in.
@Pynikal Here's a link to Fred's photo gallery of C14 maintenance and modifications. I found it very helpful. http://www.pbase.com/fredharmon/concours14 (http://www.pbase.com/fredharmon/concours14)
@gildaguz It depends on who you ask. Some people say the Connie runs a little rich on the low end anyway, so the flies out shouldn't hurt. Others recommend the PC. I chose to go with the PC because I was replacing the air filter and exhaust as well. Also, if you're going to take your bike apart, you might as well make the most of it. I can tell you that my bike runs very smoothly since doing those mods. The throttle response is instant, and the pull of the engine is consistent throughout the RPM range.
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Brad, make sure you do some research on pulling the flies and what it will affect since you have a 2011. The traction control is linked in and works with the ABS and uses the secondary flies to help. I can't find the info since the crash of 2011, but I am sure there is someone smarter than me that will chime in. I was able to do this free mod since I "only" have a 2008 that wasn't blessed with all the electronic gadgetry of the newer bikes.
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Brad, make sure you do some research on pulling the flies and what it will affect since you have a 2011. The traction control is linked in and works with the ABS and uses the secondary flies to help. I can't find the info since the crash of 2011, but I am sure there is someone smarter than me that will chime in. I was able to do this free mod since I "only" have a 2008 that wasn't blessed with all the electronic gadgetry of the newer bikes.
i will thanks JD. i really like the fuel economy of this bike i might just leave it alone. it hauls ass as it is!
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i will thanks JD. i really like the fuel economy of this bike i might just leave it alone. it hauls ass as it is!
My fuel economy hasn't suffered I am just more prone to cracking the throttle than before (I think it is mostly because I have become fully acquainted with my C14). But when I am easy on it I can get 44 mpg. While commuting with spirited rides home after work I usually get 35-38 mpg.
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i am currently getting 43.7 with the assistance of "ECO" mode
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Stock here having only around 37
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Brad, make sure you do some research on pulling the flies and what it will affect since you have a 2011. The traction control is linked in and works with the ABS and uses the secondary flies to help. I can't find the info since the crash of 2011, but I am sure there is someone smarter than me that will chime in. I was able to do this free mod since I "only" have a 2008 that wasn't blessed with all the electronic gadgetry of the newer bikes.
Good point. Didn't think about that, but now that I think about that...I do remember Fred stating something about the traction control using ignition timing in conjunction with the secondary flies? Probably a good idea to do some research first.
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Good point. Didn't think about that, but now that I think about that...I do remember Fred stating something about the traction control using ignition timing in conjunction with the secondary flies? Probably a good idea to do some research first.
will do thanks again guys.
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If an ECU remap or PCV wasn't necessary, then I would probably do it. But I don't like adding anymore electronic gizmos to a bike that already is loaded, one less thing I need to worry about or troubleshoot.
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Smart man....
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If an ECU remap or PCV wasn't necessary, then I would probably do it. But I don't like adding anymore electronic gizmos to a bike that already is loaded, one less thing I need to worry about or troubleshoot.
It's really a pretty simple mod. The PCV came with the map already loaded on it. Installation is a snap. You literally peel and stick velcro to the surface of what you want to mount your PCV to, peel and stick the opposite piece of velcro to the PCV, route the wire harness to your liking, unplug the wire harness just aft of the throttle bodies, plug in the PCV harness, and then put the fairing back on and enjoy the ride. Should the PCV fail or cause a problem, you can just unplug it and reconnect the factory harness. The only way the PC would get complicated is if you decided to recalibrate any part of it or adjust something. I too thought it might add complexity to the bike and/or require adjustments, but no...its plug and play, assuming you ordered it with a map already loaded.